Ascents in Schrammsteine

16.Begehung

Little downclimb from the summit of "Max und Moritz", then quite exposed but on good holds to the summit.

Scrubbed up the first chimney without too much elegance; the second chimney had more technique involved and for me was the crux of the whole thing, especially getting out to the ledge. From there, a short wall leads to a nice stemming chimney that grows wider and wider, to great, rust-coloured jugs at the end.

Powerful moves above the first nR (without support). Felt a bit like FKV-Kante light. Friction slab runout to the top, almost felt like the hardest moves were directly below the summit. Might of course be due to the fact that I climbed #barefoot.

Brilliant classic, long and varied. We used the original start via the sandy, but juggy wall. In the hardest section, it seems like you can traverse left around the corner for protection, but I first found a really good sling on the right arête, so I went up there for a few meters and traversed back left at the second ledge. The second pitch is definitely the "money pitch" of the route, with exposed wall climbing on fantastic structures. I put in relatively few slings to not break the climbing flow. From the last ring, it's an exposed friction slab to the plateau. To finish off, the last pitch starts with a great "Überfall" to the main summit.

One of a kind exhausting offwidth crack/narrow chimney. Looks bloody scary because it's clear that you can't protect it at all (except if you haul up a whole rope and jam it into the crack) but it turns out you can't fall anyway if you stay in the crack. With the right technique ("Hacke Spitze" on the left, frog and chicken wing on the right), it's manageable and you can rest at any point. Every inch forward costs a lot of energy, though.

Nice wall climbing on big sidepulls. The ring sits a meter too high for some reason, so you have to do the hardest moves without protection.

Not as easy as the name suggests. The first pitch up to the abseil point was already challenging and not protectable. Especially one move at about 10 m was scary. After a good look through the window, we chose to climb the chimney on the inside, which was a fun squeeze. After yet another little chimney, a somewhat sketchy section past a sandy bulge leads to a big platform. From here, it's another solo pitch to the summit via two ridges and a slabby groove (which the guide book calls a chimney for some reason).

Beg. Brüchig. Der wichtige Henkel nach dem 2.R wird wohl nicht lange bestand haben

63.Begehung