Grade Conversions Saxon / UIAA

We are looking for actual / current references about the grade conversion from Saxon to UIAA as some users repoirted some mis-alignment.

If you have references (guide books, conversions by ascensionists of certain routes, especially at high grades) please

The guidebook including the table is the official guidebook from the SBB (local Climbing Association). I think so, what's a approved conversion. For the higher grades: In Saxony, I think so, we have no repeated routes in the grade XII. For the bohemian

It's hard anyway. How do you convert the grade of a climb that is mandatorily climbed without chalk to one that is usually climbed with chalk? Do you take the additional difficulty due to the chalk into account or do you rate it as if it was climbed with

In the first, the table in the guidebook is a approved convertation. Especially Saxony is my home crag. I convert all grades in the Saxony scale . I think Chalk is not the problem (I climb not really on the scale-limit ), the biggest different is the

For me, a guy with realy sweaty hands, the chalk issue is a real problem. i could easily climb 3-4 grades higher (V in saxony up to 7+ in UIAA - onsight). the "bad" protection is another problem. you dont climb the highest grades you could reach when you

Good topic, Ulfi! I was thinking about this for months, now it seems time to speak up.

SEPARATE SX AND CZ

Before discussing the details of grading in Saxony you have to consider that at the moment the grade context SX is not only used for the 20.000

You means "Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten" SX XIIa" is only FR 8c . I think, we should concentrate on the Saxon crags. With the Bohemian areas it becomes very complicated (JPK scale, age of the route, etc.) The starting point for the discussion was

Regarding the nonsense official SX table: A friend told me years ago he made his own conversion table for SX. He climbs in the high end ranges of his table:

Sächsische Schweiz - image-1635505089031.png

VIIIa is 7+ (UIAA)?! That's a good joke. also IXc is 9 (UIAA). I think the official SX table is good and mostly corresponds with my experience (til IXa)

Nobody I don't know about the high grades at all. But it strikes me as odd that Saxon VI is covered by 2 UIAA grades in the last table you displayed when in reality it feels pretty squeezed in between V and VIIa and there are in fact fewer routes of grade VI

As I wrote before, the table from my last post is not mine, but from a friend whose focus is in the high grades. The table form is suboptimal, because the lines are suggesting equality, better imagine the grades below the empty fields reach into those. A

I think the existing "SX old" vs FR is more correct at least in the lower grades. I can usually climb 6b+ or VIIIb. I usually cannot climb 6c or VIIIc/IXa.

Based on that:

CZ: one grade difference vs SX is correct. I live on the border and this one grade

I share the view of vilda_hkvdf that "SX old" is more correct. Personally i can comfortably onsight most of the VIIa routes, and that is also true for most other traditional routes between UIAA 5 & 6- that I climbed. Even in the alps, Pfalz and Battert i

Im just not experienced enough especially with sports grades to be able to provide a reasonable opinion. But it seems like I have a particular problem with sandstone although I love sandstone climbing.

I do not even attempt to lead anything beyond

And Georg Kretzschmar I agree with your statement that grade VI feels a bit nestled in between V and VIIa. For newer climbs, this isnt the case, but for older ones, I approach the climb almost in the same way as a VIIa. Maybe thats where the saying stems from: "A

I think the most important difference is the consideration of length in the Saxon scale. Example Höllenhund-Talseite not harder than UIAA 6. In the Zittauer Gebirge, the grading is also harder because the routes are usually shorter. The table shown by