Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 28th May 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Großer Riss | |||||||
9- Hard | ★★★ Operation Sandsturm — 2 attempts | 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tolle Route mit interessanten Zügen. Insbesondere im Onsight sehr hart und deutlich leichter wenn man die Züge kennt.
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Fri 26th Apr 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Zickzackwand | |||||||
8- Hard | ★★ Bohrfieber — 3 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Mieser Kiesel der den mono nervenaufreibend gestaltet
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Großer Riss | |||||||
6+ Hard | ★★★ Fissura Calzonata | 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome crux!
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Mon 25th Mar 2024 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Popel-Block | |||||||
7A ~6C | Popelnasis | ||||||
I thought this one is without the intermediate crimps.
Tried that varaint but did not climb it up to now. For
7A the variation with intermediate is super soft
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Tue 17th Oct 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Lambrecht Hauptwand | |||||||
7 ~7 | ★★★ Dreams | 6 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Die Tour ist als 7 bewertet, das ist hart und oldschool, aber passt zu den Bewertungen im Gebiet. Tolle Linie. Leider inkonsequent eingebohrt, so dass man oben selbst absichern muss. Besser ganz clean (ginge wahrscheinlich) oder eben so viele Bolts dass man nichts mitnehmen muss.
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Lutzblock | |||||||
6C | ★★★ Achselschweiss — 9 attempts | ★★★ Classic | |||||
New level unlocked?!
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Alexblock | |||||||
6B | ★★ Alex' Traverse | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Feels like a harder version of "Kanistertraverse". Pretty dope sloper traverse.
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Lambrecht Hauptwand | |||||||
7+/8- ~7 | ★★★ Dreams | 6 | |||||
Schöne Linie, ungewohnte Kletterei vor allem oben im Fingerriss.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Wanderplatte | |||||||
5C | ★★ Kletterer über dem Chalkmeer — 6 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
5c-6a.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Microbleau | |||||||
5C | ★★ Vinyl — 8 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Pretty tricky and not much easier than Sinister Footwear.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Hohe Platte | |||||||
6B | Generation X — 3 attempts | ||||||
Seems like a really cool problem, but for the last move you'll need a good spotter and/or a couple of pads.
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4 | Vorspiel | ||||||
I don't see a route here, let alone a 4
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Mein rechter Fuß-Block | |||||||
4C | ★ Nasse Nase | ★ Good | |||||
Repeated it because this time is was dry. Short, but cool moves for that grade.
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Leistenwand | |||||||
6B ~6A | ★ Dreizügler — 3 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
I am pretty sure I used the right/defined holds, but that didn't feel anywhere close to 6b. More like a 5b, honestly. No clue, what went wrong.
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6A | ★★ Karacho — 4 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Finally. To get your ass going is the challenge.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
7 | ★ Frogstomp | 3 | Average | ||||
Boulderlastig. Nicht so verkehrt..
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Wunschwand | |||||||
4C | ★ Urzeitlicher Hagelschaden — 5 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Hard #sd. Might even be a 5.
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Mein rechter Fuß-Block | |||||||
4C | ★ Nasse Nase | ★ Good | |||||
Neat little problem.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
8 ~8+ | Laxative | ||||||
"Laxation" heute erstmal vertagt, weil immernoch keine Lösung oben. Jetzt halt die Trostpreis-Variante mit dem leichteren Ausstieg nach rechts. Es fehlt nicht mehr viel zum Durchstieg. Hart für den Grad in der normalen Welt, leicht für den Grad nach Gebietsstandards.
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt 433 Krümelblock | |||||||
3 | Krümelweg | Don't Bother | |||||
Not worth it.
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt 433 Lachplatte | |||||||
4 ~3 | Lachplatte | Don't Bother | |||||
Lame…
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Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
9- | ★★ Laxation | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
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7- ~6+ | ★ Vertical Beach | 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
Schwerer als es aussieht, aber (viel) leichter als angegeben. Eher unlohnend.
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7 ~7- | ★ Wind it Up | 4 | Average | ||||
7- in der PK Datenbank finde ich fair. Leichter als die andere 7- "real deal" (die würde ich sogar eher aufwerten). Unschöne Längenzüge.
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Lutzblock | |||||||
6B ~6A+ | ★★ Aff Aufm Schleifstein Dyno Variant | ||||||
Wenn man den versteckten Tritt findet, eher einen Grad leichter. Nimmt sich dann auch mit der normalen Variante nichts. Soll man den Riss von rechts starten oder von links?
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5B | ★★ Aff Aufm Schleifstein Arrete Variant | ||||||
Wenn man den Riss von links startet kommt der Grad hin, rechts rum schwerer
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Fri 30th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Lutzblock | |||||||
5B | ★★ Aff Aufm Schleifstein Arrete Variant | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good idea to make different variations of "Aff Aufm Schleifstein"
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Splash It | ||||||
oben, grauer Cam essentiel
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8+ | ★★ Minimax | ||||||
mit flo, 2 stürze
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6+ | ★★ Instant Crack | ||||||
aufwärmen
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
8 | ★★ 1601 | 4 | |||||
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8+ | ★★★ Ready For Launch | ★★★ Classic | |||||
mit Flo. nach einem Jahr zurrück gekommen und im 2. Go begangen. oben roter Cam nützlich
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Großer Riss | |||||||
8 | ★ Wedding Planer | ||||||
nach langerzeit endlich wieder zurück und mit Lenja durchgestiegen!
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | |||||||
5+ ~6- | ★ Tugarez | 3 | |||||
Im Buch Kletterfrüher Haardt (2021) wird sie mit 6- bewertet.
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5- ~5+ | Henk'sche Ambivalenz | ||||||
Im Buch Kletterfrüher Haardt (2021) wird sie mit 5+ bewertet.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Leistenwand | |||||||
6B ~6C | ★ Dreizügler | ||||||
If climbed "properly", i.e. with a sit start and using the defined holds, this is a 6c boulder. It was defined in the original Pfalz bouldering guide (no longer in print).
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Der schöne Block | |||||||
6A ~6A+ | ★ Banlieu en Feu | ||||||
With a sit start at least 6a+
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
4 Hard | Kurze Tour mit langem Namen - with Diana | 2 | |||||
Saving quickdraws
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8+ | ★★ Minimax - with Diana | ||||||
Felt more doable last time I tried. The crimp is terrible...
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Kessel | |||||||
8+ | Finis Africae | ||||||
Keine Chance, Längenzug.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Großer Riss | |||||||
9- | ★★★ Operation Sandsturm | 5 | |||||
Erstmal keine Chance
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Treppe | |||||||
6 ~6+ | ★ Pfeilerweg — 3 attempts | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Als letzten Griff ein Zweifingerloch Sidepull und als Tritt eine Minileiste in einem 6er? Are you kidding me? Hat schon etwas Überwindung gekostet
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Leistenwand | |||||||
6A+ | ★★ Anti-Static | 4m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
…and then this local shows you an insignificant foothold that changes everything.
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
8- ~8- | ★★ Minimax | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sehr schön, aber die Bewertung passt nicht zu anderen Routen in der Region und auch der Abstand zu leichter bewerteten Routen (z.B. Splash it (7+) oder The Real Deal (7-)) im selben Steinbruch ist nicht groß genug.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Calypso-Block | |||||||
5B | ★★ Calypso-Traverse | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Wow, that's a fun one!
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Microbleau | |||||||
6A | ★★★ Sinister Footwear (Sinister Foodwear) | ||||||
Name says it all.
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5B | ★★ Microbleau Linke Kante | Average | |||||
It's supposed to be piazed, but I didn't know in which direction I should lean. I ended up climbing on the left side of the block.
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Leistenwand | |||||||
6A+ | ★★ Anti-Static | 4m | |||||
This time it DID feel impossible
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Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
9- | Waste | 7 | |||||
Einstiegsboulder, moderater Mittelteil, Längenabhängige Schlüsselstelle ganz oben. Diese macht meiner Meinung nach den Grad aus.
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Kessel | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Ma Sklerijenn an Hoel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Boulderproblem am Einstieg
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6 7- | ★★★ Let´s Dance | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Crux ist die Platte vor dem umlenker.
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Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
Lucky Loser - with Diana | |||||||
Was supposed to be the second warmup. It wasn't and I didn't feel like burning energy on it.
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6- | ★ Die Hutzen und die Dutzen - with Diana | 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Warmup
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8+ | ★★ Minimax - with Diana | ||||||
Managed to do all moves. Nice route. The crux is clearly at the start, but it's not super easy (also to read) afterwards either. I fear I might do the crux and then the pump kills me
Wouldn't mind another bolt between the second and third, but it is pretty easy terrain. Guess it's very unlikely to fall if you made it there. If you did however during the clip, I'm pretty sure it would be a ground fall. One could place friends in-between for more safety but I didn't bring any that day. |
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8+ | ★★ Minimax - with Diana | ||||||
Three more attempts after a long rest, all failing in the crux. Close to doing it on the last as I got it increasingly more dialed.
So great, now I have two promising 8+ mini-projects here and in Gimmeldingen and no more free weekends before I'll move away. |
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Strictly Balroom - with Diana | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves
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6 | ★ Kleiner Feigling - with Diana | 5 | |||||
Much easier after the boulder at the start. Might wanna bring a clip stick, the first bolt is way above the difficulties.
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8+ | ★★ Meerspinne - with Diana | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found a solution for all but one move near the second bolt. From the third onward it's not super easy, but was easy enough to onsight the rest.
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8+ | ★★ Meerspinne - with Diana | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After a long break. Made progress, but still this one move which I couldn't free yet. Have a beta that might work if perfectly well rested and eveything works out. But of course there is no way I'll remember this until next time I'm here
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Mon 4th Jul 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Lambrecht Linke Wand | |||||||
7- | Wellenreiter | 4 | |||||
Elegante Tour. Absicherung der Schlüsselstelle um den ersten Haken hat sich für mich nicht so elegant angefühlt.
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8- 8 | ★★ Fingerspiele | 3 | |||||
Empfehlenswerte sehr faire 8- mit Bouldercharakter.
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Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Lambrecht Linke Wand | |||||||
5 | Südverscheidung | 6 | |||||
Absicherung wurde vor kurzem deutlich verbessert.
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Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
9- | Waste | 7 | |||||
Fell at the last move.
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Kessel | |||||||
6+ | Schwüler Dreck - with Diana | 4 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Metamorphose - with Diana | 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My topo says crux near the first bolt. I disagree and would put it higher, but it's pretty consistent dihedral fun throughout. Pumpy only for the calves, you can always technique your way around having to pull hard. Plenty of somewhat good rest and clip positions, would not have been necessary to pre-clip the first two bolts in retrospect.
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6+ | ★★ Steinerner Regen - with Diana | 5 | |||||
Kinda nasty to the anchor
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5 | Neuling - with Diana | 4 | Don't Bother | ||||
Weird start and as so very often around here, more sand than stone. Boy am I happy to soon live near limestone again
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | |||||||
7- | Der Zauderer von Oz - with Diana | ||||||
Read it wrong several times. Did all the moves in the end, but no time left for a redpoint attempt.
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5+ | ★ Tugarez - with Diana | 3 | |||||
After the first dihedral of the worked out so nicely...
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Sun 15th May 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Plattenwand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Strictly Balroom | 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Im dritten Versuch
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
5- | Große Ostwand - with Diana | 2 | |||||
Toprope service
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8+ | Perfect Match - with Diana | 4 | |||||
Been a long time I last tried this one. About as terrible as I remembered
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8+ | Perfect Match - with Diana | 4 | |||||
With the power of beta-master Diana who saw the one tiny foothold I hadn't considered and some morpho for good measure, I actually managed the boulder at the start. And then took a looong rest while remembering how the rest of Bob's Delight worked again
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6- | Plattenbau-Ost - with Diana | Don't Bother | |||||
Very short and super dirty even for Annaberg.
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6+ | ★★ Instant Crack - with Diana | ||||||
Bit pumpy as a warmup, but luckily plenty of rest positions.
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8 | Marveous Ugly - with Diana | 2 | |||||
Went better than last time (a year or so ago) but still not sure how to get out of that overhang.
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Sun 1st May 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Weidenthal Wald | |||||||
7+ | Pälzer Schdroos | ||||||
Sehr inhomogen. Unten fünfter bis sechster Grad, dann eine für 7+ recht extreme Einzelstelle von 2-3 Zügen rund um den letzten Haken vor dem Umlenker.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Treppe | |||||||
7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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7- | ★★ Sonnenaufgang | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Tried greenpoint, but crack disappears halfway.
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Thu 7th Apr 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Weidenthal Wald | |||||||
6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Impftermin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Für den Grad ungewöhnlich athletischer und pumpiger Stil.
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Sun 3rd Apr 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Gimmeldinger Steinbruch Zickzackwand | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Therapiezentrum | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A very enjoyable route
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 1 Mond-Block | |||||||
6A | Keep the Faith | ||||||
I climbed the old topo, which isn't correct. I'll have to go back and climb the new topo
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Wolfsburg Afrika-Block | |||||||
6B | Afrika - with Diana | ||||||
Managed to do all the moves.
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4+ | Wackelblock - with Diana | ||||||
No way I'm topping out into the dirt and moss with nothing whatsoever to hold onto
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Sun 27th Mar 2022 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Wolfsburg Aufwärmblock | |||||||
4 | Linke Wand | ||||||
Kinda hard for Fb4 if you do it as drawn here, i.e., through, not above, the overhang.
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4 | Follow the steps | ||||||
Foot slipped on the first attempt...
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
7- 6+/7- | ??? - with Diana | 3 | |||||
When the planned warmup becomes the project of the day. This was harder than expected at every single section. Took me a while to even do the start.
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7- 6+/7- | ??? - with Diana | 3 | |||||
And the worst part is, it really isn't that hard if you know what to do -.-
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Felix-Block | |||||||
5C | ★★ Warmup | 4m | |||||
did it as a sitstart. Surelt the standstart is easier than 5C.
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Sun 17th Oct 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Lutzblock | |||||||
7A | ★★ Joue des Pieds - with An unknown stranger :) | ||||||
No chance. Dyno out of an overhang? What was I thinking, that's both of my weaknesses combined
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6C | ★★★ Achselschweiss - with An unknown stranger :) | ||||||
Maybe. Progress at least.
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Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
7- | ★ Bob's Delight - with Diana | 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Felt so much easier this time. Easy enough that I'm willing to try the variation next time, although I was happy never having to do the top part ever again. You better have a C0.5 otherwise it's a long way down if you mess up at the anchor
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7+ | Pfalzmonarch - with Diana | 2 | |||||
Should be possible. For now it was good fall practice
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5 | Putzen statt Bohren - with Diana | 1 | |||||
TR service
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5- | Ostwandpfeiler - with Diana | 1 | Average | ||||
TR service
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Tue 21st Sep 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Leistenwand | |||||||
6A+ | ★★ Anti-Static | 4m | |||||
To my utmost surprise it felt kind of possible. Move to the top hold seems to be the crux.
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Tue 21st Sep 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Haardt Haardt 2 Lutzblock | |||||||
6A+ | ★★★ Left side of Darkness | 3m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yes! I hope, I started low enough though…
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6A+ | ★★ Aff aufm Schleifstein | 4m | ★ Good | ||||
Same problem. Using the arete makes it pretty easy, but sticking to the crack is hard…
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Wed 1st Sep 2021 - Westpfalz | |||||||
Neustädter Gebiet Steinbruch Annaberg | |||||||
7 | ★ Frogstomp - with Diana | 3 | |||||
Fell on the first move during the onsight attempt. Several high feet in the route.
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