Ascents in Grande Grotta as Red point

Pretty chuffed with a retro flash from 2 years ago but boy was it a fight. Had the added extra excitement of having dinomite lobed and exploded not too far away for a traditional Greek celebration mid send. Was wild feeling the explosions reverberate in my chest

first go

Un-punt.

so good, one of favourite routes in the island. you go on a journey

Really polished....

2nd go, I did 6 kneebars and I needed them, pumpy climbing

Shame that I ruined the onsight by trying the direct version which I didn't like much 😕. This one is way more enjoyable than direct version

2nd go?!! I’m in total disbelief of what just happened. Like…how? When I first tried 3 weeks ago I needed 2 days of rest JUST from going bolt to bolt. Maybe the most onsight-able of the grade, anywhere.

Definitely soft, given that I’ve never even done a 7c+ clean. This would MAYBE get 7c/+ in other Balkan countries like Romania or Serbia…but idk where else you can climb a 40m monster roof with 28 QD’s, with moves no harder than V3/4. If you’re fit for this style, it’ll feel like a marathon 7c.

Anyhooters, grade is the least important thing about this climb. 1000 stars.

Desperate! Got spooged off in the sun last week but came back for revenge 😎

Hardest move is yeeting thyself to the right for a jug on a grey tufa. The rest is just holding on and getting good kneebars. Top is easy but you’re pumped by then. Multiple double-kneebar upside-down rests. Lol @ everyone giving this 7b on 8a.nu

First attempt to set draws

Mega route. Crux is demanding and strong. Lots of good rests after the crux

We woke up late and someone was already working on Aegialis, so I decided to get on this instead. Really cool, bouldery sequence on (at this point) slick crimps! I think I've lost some power from all the endurance climbing I've been doing. Enjoyed it a lot!

Beautiful climb. Just stunning in every way. The scenery, backdrop, phenomenality of the terran, movement, and more. First started projecting it on my second day in Kalymnos, the 9/9/2023, 2 attempts (onsight attempt almost cleared the hardest section), then 9/10/2023 also saw another attempt. Today, on a windy, perfect weather September day, I focused on breathing above all. After a fine elastic band warrm-up and stretching. Went out of my way to do things properly, as the sheer length of this climb I feel merits any methods that give you the fitness and focus to do all 40 or so meters of overhanging climbing. I made a concentrated effort to keep my breathing under control, and I managed to do it. On the rests, besides continuing my good breathing, I practiced a bit of mindfulness, following the advice from a pretty good article on resting on routes. I allowed myself a lot more easily to be thankful for where I was, and how beautiful and fun it is! I have never done a route quite as beautiful? Maybe only comparable in beauty to Lord of the Thais. Endurance climbing like this is surprisingly (or unsurprisingly hehe) meditative. I timed my rests with Esau. I took sweet and sour gummies to restore my blood sugar. It came down to the wire, too. I tried clipping the chains 3 times before I was actually able to clip the hard-to-move wiregates whilst managing 40m of rope drag meandering through a maze of stalactites. I kept breathing all the way through, climbed a bit higher, and sent. It was amazing.