Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Kalymnos Telendos South Face - Multi-Pitches | ||||||||
6c ~6c |
Prometheus
1
6c
35m
2
6a+
35m
3
6a+
35m
4
6b
25m
5
5
20m
6
6a
20m
7
4
15m
8
5+
15m
| 200m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2023 | ||||
In the sun the first pitch felt like a 6c for Kalymnian standards.
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6b+ | ★★ De Charybde en Cila - with Gino Lagazio | 230m | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
Maybe nicer if your fingertips are ok but basically the whole climb is razorblades
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6b+ | ★★ De Charybde en Cila - with Diego Andrés Ibaceta Ulloa | 230m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th May 2022 | ||||
Definitely in my top 3 of the best multipitch that i have done, probably the best. Sustain, technical and super fun climb, i would not considered the 3rd pitch as a pitch but the other seventh are amazing climb.
In the shade most part of the time( at least until noon i guess).
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6b+ | ★★ De Charybde en Cila | 230m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Nov 2022 | ||||
Nice one. Didn't like the first pitch though as had multiple holds break.
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6a | ★★★ Wings for Life | 250m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Apr 2015 | ||||
A wonderfull journey, guite adventurous with lota of friends!!!!!
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6a |
★★★ Wings for Life
- with
Matt Harper
1
5a
20m
2
5b
30m
3
5b
10m
4
4b
30m
5
4c
20m
6
5b
20m
7
6a
30m
8
5b
20m
9
6a
20m
10
5b
20m
11
30m
| 250m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Oct 2019 | ||||
Wow what an epic day out!!! The two crux pitches are absolutely amazing and very different. They definitely give this route it’s stars. Pitch 7 is a wildly exposed overhanging layback corner, pretty freaking gnarly. Pitch 9 is an insanely airy traverse out across tufa and broccoli rock, passing right over the lip of the giant cave, nothing below but a couple of hundred metres of air. So epic and amazing! The exposure is mind blowing. Absolutely loved it ♥️
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6a | ★★★ Wings for Life - with TomMatthews | 250m | Sat 13th Apr 2019 | |||||
Find the famous finger-gluer on the way over to serve as the guidebook you forgot. Start by the painting of a chubby wheat sheaf. Punch the sharp rock at least twice before pitch 4. Sing tanglefoot above pitch 6. Squat out so much rope drag stringing 7 and 8 you top out looking like kim. Avoid the bird vomit before the final pitch. Eat 3 cucumber sandwiches. Descend in psychra and your best rave shirt.
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6a | ★★★ Wings for Life | 250m | ★ Good | Sat 7th May 2022 | ||||
Beautiful views, easy climbing and perhaps the most over bolted climb on earth make for a pretty chill climb. Linked pitches 1,2,3 and 4,5,6 and did the harder ones as singles and linked the last two. Walk down was crux.
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6a | ★★★ Wings for Life - with Mike Garrett | 250m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Oct 2022 | ||||
4hr 45min.
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6b+ |
★★★ Eterna
- with
Christopher Kunhardt
1
5b
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
2
6b+
lead by
Heleena Comino
3
5c
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
4
4b
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
5
5c
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
6
6a+
lead by
Heleena Comino
7
6b+
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
8
6a
lead by
Heleena Comino
9
4c
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
10
6b
lead by
Christopher Kunhardt
11
6b
lead by
Heleena Comino
| 280m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st May 2017 | ||||
We did this amazing multi-pitch in 8 pitches. Chris linked 3rd, 4th and 5th together, and then the 9th and 10th together. The second pitch (6b+) was delicate, traversing climbing with a tricky crux on some small holds / slopers. The sixth pitch (6a+) felt quite easy for the grade.. the eighth pitch (6a) was harder than the 6a+. The last two 6b pitches were amazing - nice small holds with great exposure to a good top out with an incredible view.
The walk in was one hour then four hours of climbing time, with another one and a half hours of rappelling - rappelling not recommended as lots of loose rocks on some of the belays causing rock fall. Amazing day out. |
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6b+ | ★★★ Eterna | 280m | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | |||||
Alt Leads
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6b+ | ★★★ Eterna - with alex ng | 280m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 4th Aug 2023 | ||||
Beautiful route, densely bolted. Second pitch by far the most difficult. We climbed it in 6 pitches by combining pitches to gain time. Easy route finding. Last hour we climbed in the sun. Descent was challenging because of the temperature. Count two hours at least. We used the church half way to find some shade and recovery.
When climbing the route in summer consider to stay the previous night on Telendos. An early (sunrise) start gives time to be at the beach around mid day... |
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6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country | 270m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Nov 2013 | ||||
With Eric. With an 80m rope we did this in 4 pitches (eric p1-3, and p6-7). Taking the 8am ferry, and getting dropped at the base, we topped out at 11.30. The walk off took longer than the climb. About half the climbing on the route is great, which is not bad for such a lomg route. If your climbing in the 6's, it would be testing. If your climbing in the 7's, its a great actibe rest day, as you get to see the island of Telendos.
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6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country | 270m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Apr 2014 | ||||
Did in 4 pitches. 1,2 dave, 3,4 me, 5,6,7 dave,8,9 me.walk out took about same time as climb. Quite worthwhile. Didn't clip about half the bolts.
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6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country - with Rob Saunders | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 6th Nov 2014 | ||||
Great days climbing up an awesome face. Very worthwhile. We did it in twin pitch legs. I led 1,2 and 5,6 and 9.
The only thing wrong with this route is that the bolts are rusty after only 4 years (2014) and need to be replaced.
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6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country - with Bernie Walsh | 270m | Fri 7th Nov 2014 | |||||
Great day out for adventure climb and look around Tolendos.
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6a+ |
★★★ Wild Country
1
lead by
Mil
2
lead by
Bianca
3
lead by
Mil
4
lead by
Bianca
5
lead by
Mil
6
lead by
Bianca
7
lead by
Mil
8
lead by
Bianca
9
lead by
Mil
| 270m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
Pretty wild adventure. First 7 pitches were amazing, pretty nice climbing although there was a fair bit of loose rock around pitches 5 and 6 and a lot spikey/stabby plants that were growing on the face and seemed to be positioned where all the good holds were. Pitches 8 and 9 however I would not give three stars. The rock was so sharp it felt like crimping on razor blades for the better part of 80m. Maybe if our skin was fresher it would have been less painful but as it stood we had to climb the last section quite slowly and never have I been so happy to find 'foot jugs'. Views on the other hand were amazing. Approach in was easy but the walk off the top was a little vague. Cairns are there but hard to see and you would not want to be walking off in the night time. Managed to find our way to Irox though and shave an hour off our walk (took about 1.5 hours in total) and catch a boat with some Russians back home from the Wild Country
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country | 270m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 29th Mar 2018 | ||||
Great multi-pitch. Not chossy, all great pitches, we strung a couple together, a big day, but not difficult climbing. A few goats on the way up too.
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6a+ |
★★★ Wild Country
1
5a
30m
2
5a
25m
3
6a
35m
4
5c
35m
5
5c
35m
6
6a+
20m
7
6a
30m
8
5b
30m
9
25.m
| 270m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | ||||
Took the 7am boat, topped out 1145. Climbing wise not the best kalymnos has to offer. The starting traverse of the crux pitch was fun but most of the time is spent crimping on very sharp limestone. The rock on the 4th pitch is also a bit loose which I found out the hard way by taking a whip when a foothold broke loose.
The views and exposure are mind blowing though, definitely making up for the less than amazing climbing. |
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6a+ |
★★★ Wild Country
1
5a
30m
2
5a
25m
3
6a
35m
4
5c
35m
5
5c
35m
6
6a+
20m
7
6a
30m
8
5b
30m
9
5c
25m
| 270m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | ||||
6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 14th Sep 2022 | ||||
schöner Zustieg, schöne Route, viele Bolts, langer, harter Abstieg.
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Kalymnos Telendos Crystal Cave | ||||||||
7c | ★★★ Es Pontas | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Nov 2020 | ||||
Definitely don't need "100m rope". We lowered off with a 70m and pulled in to a ledge no problem.
|
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Kalymnos Telendos Lambda | ||||||||
5c | ★★ Nuria - with Marcela | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | ||||
Challenging and sustained climbing after the initial slab.
|
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5b | ★★ Eggen - with Flo | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th May 2019 | ||||
sturz training
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Flauschi | 30m, 15 | Tue 20th Aug 2013 | |||||
pretty average compared to the other stellar routes
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Flauschi | 30m, 15 | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | |||||
Amazing how much climbing can be done with so few holds.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Flauschi | 30m, 15 | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | |||||
Amazing how much climbing can be done with so few holds.
|
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6a | ★★ Nordend | 32m, 14 | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||||
Long AF
|
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6a | ★★ Nordend — 2 attempts | 32m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th May 2023 | ||||
Hard for the grade
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star | 35m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Sep 2012 | ||||
Good fun climbing.
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star - with Scott Hailstone | 35m, 18 | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | |||||
Great climb transitions from slab to face to overhang ... Character of the rock changes a few times ... Very enjoyable. Missed the onsight when a foothold crumbled but my feet could have been better anyway
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star | 35m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | ||||
interesting and sustained through all 40m of it
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star | 35m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Long, fun, so many types of climbing in one climb, so many quickdraws (skip a couple).
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star - with Ryu | 35m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th May 2022 | ||||
2nd go after lead attempt
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6a+ | ★★★ Telendos Star - with Lilly | 35m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 28th Jul 2022 | ||||
Excellent steep climbing on mostly good holds all the way that feels quite exposed from the middle and up. What dreams are made of.
|
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6a+ 6b | ★★ General | 42m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Sep 2012 | ||||
Quite technical for the grade. Found it harder than the other 6bs. Really good though!
|
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6b+ | ★★ Schwjieschwanzerrected | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Oct 2015 | ||||
holy crap hard for a warm up. 50 other people at the crag. we were the first to arrive but obviously took awhile to both do 50m. by the time we finished we were lucky to get any other climbs!!!
|
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6b+ | ★★ Schwjieschwanzerrected | 50m | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | |||||
dog on the extension
|
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6a | ★★ Schwjieschwanz - with Marcela | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Sep 2022 | ||||
TR after bail on lead due to fear of the run out at about the 5th bolt.
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6b+ | ★★★ Hotel Simi | 50m | Mon 30th Sep 2013 | |||||
pretty cool climbing. jugalicious!
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6b+ | ★★★ Hotel Simi - with Jacky | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
Nice airy traverse at 45m height.
|
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4c | ★ Hotel Simi Basement | 20m | Mon 30th Sep 2013 | |||||
chossy. such a pity you have to do this to get to the stellar second part. the rope will always get stuck on something and you will dislodge rocks....
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6c | ★★★ El Alamein | 40m, 21 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 20th Oct 2019 | ||||
Unglaublich gut!
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay - with Sammi | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Bird flew out of a hole a metre from my face. Bird Killer™.
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay - with Gino Lagazio | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
Sensational. Watch the falcons nest
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay - with Jacky | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
One last great long pitch of the day.
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay - with Eleo | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
2nd go
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Oct 2022 | ||||
Really cool 40m monster!
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Chardonnay | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | ||||
40 mt
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6c+ 6c | ★★★ Gerwitscht | 40m, 22 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | ||||
Desperate :-(
|
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6b+ | ★★ Arbzug | 40m, 22 | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||||
Additional surprise birds nest near the 16th bolt. Knew there was one 2 climbs over but this one was a surprise! Especially when mama flew home at the 17th bolt.... 2 fluffy grey chicks ... I climbed 2m left (probably not 6b+) and managed to avoid them.
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6b | ★★ Fiirhelzer - with Johnny Orlich | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | ||||
Fun ... speed climbed it to clean before the sun hit.
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6b | ★★★ Dom | 40m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 6th Sep 2012 | ||||
Good fun climbing
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6b | ★★★ Dom - with Peta Barrett | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | ||||
Fantastic, continuous climbing at a great crag ...
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6b | ★★★ Dom - with Niki Conway | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Sep 2017 | ||||
Just when I thought I was done battling I decided to jump on this delight. What a great bloody climb. Probably my proudest climb yet considering the state I was in. First 20m was pretty easy with a few balancy and delicate moves. Top section had some really commiting moves and sections with thin feet where you really had to trust the rubber. Getting over the bulge at the top was a monster effort, was totally gassed and definitely thought I was going to whip after down climbing 3 times buuuuuut I got it. Bloody brilliant line and totally deserves the music note in the guide book.
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6b | ★★★ Dom | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 28th May 2019 | ||||
Slab, vertical then overhanging on big jugs. Keep your focus till the end.
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7b+ 7b | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 3) | 55m | Fri 30th Aug 2013 | |||||
rope drag pulled me off at the crux, 50m of rope!! awesome climb, remember to take lighter rope...
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7b+ 7b | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 3) | 55m | Fri 30th Aug 2013 | |||||
once I knew what to do, expected rope drag so countered for it....
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7b | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 3) - with Sammi | 55m | Average | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Done as one big pitch to top of cliff. This pitch is not super obvious but it's all there.
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7b | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 3) - with Jacky | 55m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
Massive amazing pitch which gets harder with every move and the hardest ones right at the anchor.
Moves are not harder than 7b, but can see how many people give this 7b+ as you do the hardest moves with 50m of rope pulling you down.
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7b | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 3) | 55m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | ||||
this nice route will be downgraded in the next guide 50 mt
Soft |
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | ||||
Awesome ... see notes on part one
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | ||||
Awesome fun!
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | Sat 14th Sep 2013 | |||||
Awesome, everything clicked, lovely climb.
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | ||||
juggy heaven on top, very soft
|
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) - with Sammi | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Done as one big pitch to top of cliff. This is the best bit.
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) - with Niki Conway | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Sep 2017 | ||||
This was an epic battle. Fought through the top section with some desperate moves and interesting clipping stances. Never sweated so much in my life. Came up 1m before the chains and came off trying to get a left foot on from the under cling to get to the clipping jug. Pretty devo but probably a bit ambitious to try and get the onsight on my ice cream grade. Really want to come back and tick this with a little more skin and a little more vavoom in the tank so beautiful!
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Sep 2017 | ||||
Second shot on this. Felt much less desperate than the first time. Made it up to the chains again and tried the short mans beta of getting across using the undercling and high rock over left but way too bunched up and didn't make it took the mother of all whips almost down to the first set of anchors which was a bit Gnarls Barkley. Climbed back up and managed to work out alternative beta climbing up the face on small holds which is a little pumpy but doable. Too tired to go for a third burn but will jump on this again one day!
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6c | ★★★ Progressive Rock (Part 2) | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 25th Sep 2017 | ||||
About 3 degrees hotter when I jumped back on to do the extension and a fair bit spoogier. Pumpy stuff, fell off waiting for the second on the next climb to move off my holds. Couldn't use Bianca's undercling beta at the crux but found different beta on the face but too tired to stick a big move to the chains.
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6c |
★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) (Progressive Rock)
- with
Johnny Orlich
1
6a+
lead by
Colin
2
6c
lead by
Colin
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Sep 2012 | ||||
Fabulous route that gets harder as you progress ... lots of good rests leading up to a fairly committing crux ... really fun stuff. Very happy with the onsight.
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6a+ 6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) | 30m | Fri 30th Aug 2013 | |||||
warm up for the day.
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6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) - with Sammi | 30m | ★ Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Done as one big pitch to top of cliff.
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6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) | 30m | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | |||||
With Bruce and Mel. Repeat.
|
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6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) - with Niki Conway | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Sep 2017 | ||||
Amazing.
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6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Sep 2017 | ||||
Put the draws up as a warm up and at the chains realised I didn't have enough to do the extension so came back down.
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6a | ★★ Progressive Rock (Part 1) | 30m | Wed 5th Apr 2023 | |||||
Comfort zone
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | Tue 20th Aug 2013 | |||||
extension to lava. amazingly good! super pumped but good holds for the tall and crimps in the middle for the height deficient... me
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | ||||
pumped out, missed the jug in the crux. hard to traverse with so much drag... botched it, I ignored tickmark beta and let go instead of climbing back down to a rest.
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7a | ★★★ Eruption - with Sammi | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
This was quite mega. That perfect, sculpted dark rock which is great to climb on but needs a breeze. Best thing I climbed at Lambda today.
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | |||||
What an amazing piece of rock!
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7a | ★★★ Eruption - with Gino Lagazio | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Sep 2017 | ||||
The extension is more like 25m judging by the rope length on the re thread
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | ||||
You don't know heartbreak til you've been punted in the last metre of a 50m route on your onsight burn. What a monster pitch. Went down easily 2nd shot when I didn't have 26 draws weighing me down. Absolute must-do route for Telendos
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th Sep 2021 | ||||
Mega pitch 50 meters
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 12th Oct 2022 | ||||
50m monster. A bit too much for a warm up, not enough QuickDraws and crazy rope drag 😅 second go smarter and easier. Longest single pitch I have ever climbed.
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | Thu 27th Apr 2017 | |||||
What an amazing piece of rock!
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7a | ★★★ Eruption | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 23rd Aug 2014 | ||||
pleasure climbing
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Lava | 30m, 13 | Tue 20th Aug 2013 | |||||
overbolted? easy to skip and clip every second, especially if doing extension
|
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6a 6a+ | ★★ Lava | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | ||||
a bit different, more balancy slab than the rest
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lava - with Sammi | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Slabby tufa remnants.
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6a+ | ★★ Lava | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | ||||
Lap
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6c+ | ★★ Hot Chili Young Love | 40m | Mon 30th Sep 2013 | |||||
warm up. felt harder than some of the 7as here.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hot Chili Young Love | 40m | Average | Tue 14th Oct 2014 | ||||
one hang, rope drag is killer
|
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5c+ | ★★ Hot Chili | 25m, 10 | Sat 14th Sep 2013 | |||||
Solid. Nice climb
|
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5c+ | ★★ Hot Chili | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th May 2021 | ||||
A nice warm-up, I don't understand why it has only one star on the crag (it has 3 stars in the guidebook)
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7a+ | ★★★ Lambda Capital (Lambda Captial) - with Sammi | 50m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
More good climbing on the smooth dark rock. Need breeze or lots of chalk.
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7a+ | ★★★ Lambda Capital - with Jacky | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Oct 2020 | ||||
Super spoogy. Ropedrag Management is the key
|
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6a+ | ★★ Lambda - with Sarah Ross | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Sep 2014 | ||||
Lovely climbing.
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6a+ | ★★ Lambda - with Colin McKeown | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th Sep 2014 | ||||
Good fun
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Lambda - with Sammi | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Oct 2015 | ||||
Nearly classic, but several hard moves well out from bolts; slightly un-Kalymnian. Should be 6b.
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6a+ | ★★ Lambda | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Nice climb. All of the holds are there.
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