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South Face - Multi-Pitches All Sport climbing 8 routes in sector

Grade context: FR
Photos: 6
Ascents: 66

6a 6b

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Description

Long (250m+) multi-pitch routes, the main attraction of the Telendian south face. Home to the iconic multipitch routes 'Wings for Life' and 'Wild Country'.

In the shade only until 11 AM, so start early!

Access issues inherited from Telendos

Ferry runs daily, every half hour, from the port at Myrties (1 Km s of Massouri) to Telendos. 2,50 € (2022 it is 3€) from 8am - 12 midnight. Fewer services operate in shoulder and off-season however. A boat also goes directly to the beach near Irox/Eros leaving at 10a and returning at 5p/1700. In shoulder season you need to arrange this with the boat operator and be ready to pay an extra 15-20€.

Descent notes

Walk off

Walk off following cairns rightwards, leading you to St Constantine's chapel and sector Miltiadis. From there, follow the coastal path back to Telendos village.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
Use established paths and close gates behind you.
Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).

History

History timeline chart

Take the ferry to Telendos, and ask the skipper if he can drop you at the multi-pitches (10 € per passenger in 2013).

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Routes

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1 3 15m

2 5c 35m

3 5b 35m

4 4a 35m

5 4a 30m

6 5b 15m

7 6b+ 25m

8 6b+ 25m

Six easy pitches with spaced bolting, followed by two final 6b+ pitches. The last three pitches are shared with the neighbouring route 'Spirit of Aegean'.

3, 15 m, 1 bolt.
5c, 35 m, 5 bolts.
5b, 35 m, 10 bolts.
4a, 35 m, 3 bolts.
4a, 30 m, 3 bolts.
5b, 15 m, 5 bolts.
6b+, 25 m, 11 bolts.
6b+, 25 m, 8 bolts.

Set: Christoph Martin & Ricarda Spiecker, 2017

1 6a 25m

2 5c 25m

3 4a 25m

4 4b 15m

5 4a 40m

6 5b 15m

7 6b+ 25m

8 6b+ 25m

As inconsistent as its left neighbor with lots of easy pitches with runout bolting. The last three pitches are shared with 'Jassu Bayerland'.

6a, 25 m, 6 bolts.
5c, 25 m, 6 bolts.
4a, 25 m, 5 bolts.
4b, 15 m, 2 bolts.
4a, 40 m, 1 bolt.
5b, 15 m, 5 bolts.
6b+, 25 m, 11 bolts.
6b+, 25 m, 8 bolts.

Set: Christoph Martin & Ricarda Spiecker, 2017

1 5a 30m

2 5a 25m

3 6a 35m

4 5c 35m

5 5c 35m

6 6a+ 20m

7 6a 30m

8 5b 30m

9 5c 25m

This route has a lot of bolts, and a lot of exposure. Route finding is easy (follow the bolts), but it would be easy to get lost on the descent in poor conditions. An excellent testing day for climbers operating in the mid 6's.

5a, 30m, 7 bolts. Easy slab climbing.
5a, 25m, 8 bolts. Similar to pitch 1. Can be easily linked if you use long QDs and collect a few clips to reduce rope drag.
'Braveheart', 6a, 35m, 14 bolts. A small crux right at the start, then up and right through a corner.
'Grey Slab', 5c, 35m, 14 bolts. As the name suggests, slab climbing on grey, slightly sharp rock. You can easily miss the anchor, which is offset a little bit to the left of the bolt line.
'Cresiano Mantle', 5c, 35m, 11 bolts. Great varied pitch across several big blocks.
'Reach for Glory', 6a+, 20m, 12 bolts. The crux pitch with a reachy traverse at the start leading to sustained climbing on small features. Very densely bolted.
6a, 30n, 13 bolts. Very good climbing, interesting and varied throughout.
'Head Wall', 5b, 30m, 13 bolts. Easy slab climbing.
'Happy Biceps', 5c, 25m, 10 bolts. A great chimney makes up for the home stretch.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2010

1 5b 40m

2 6b+ 25m

3 5c 20m

4 4b 15m

5 5c 25m

6 6a+ 25m

7 6b+ 25m

8 6a 35m

9 4c 10m

10 6b 25m

11 6b 25m

12 5.m

Set: Francis Haden & Gordon Jenkin, 2014

1 5a 20m

2 5b 30m

3 5b 10m

4 4b 30m

5 4c 20m

6 5b 20m

7 6a 30m

8 5b 20m

9 6a 20m

10 5b 20m

11 5a 30m

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2008

1 4c 15m

2 2 20m

3 5c 25m

4 6a+ 30m

5 5c 30m

6 6a 30m

7 6b+ 35m

8 5c 35m

The most recent addition to the multipitch routes on the Telendian south face. Well protected and consistent on high-quality rock.

4c, 15 m.
Walk, 20 m.
5c, 25 m.
6a+, 30 m.
5c, 30 m.
6a, 30 m.
6b+, 35 m.
5c, 35 m.

Set: Mauro Rossi, Yannis Zoidis & Pietro Bruzzo, 2017

1 6a 25m

2 6b 30m

3 2 20m

4 6b 35m

5 6b+ 35m

6 6b+ 35m

7 6a 20m

8 6b 30m

6a 25m 11QD. Easy start, hard wall shortly before the anchor.
6b 30m 11 QD. Traverse rightwards; a challenging, slightly overhanging wall on small, sharp holds (could be 6b).
20m 2QD. Leftward traverse and walk.
6b 35m 14 QD. Smooth, vertical wall.
6b+ 35m 14 QD. Slightly overhanging. Perhaps the most beautiful pitch.
6b+ 35m 13 QD. A consistently interesting slab.
6a 20m 13 QD. Attention – loose blocks above the anchor.
6b 30m 13 QD. An ‘airborne’ exit, the icing on the cake! The final anchor is a bit further up behind a big lodged block.

Set: Claude Idoux & André Langenbach, 2012

1 6b+ 35m

2 6a+ 35m

3 6a+ 35m

4 6b/b+ 25m

5 5 20m

6 6a 20m

7 4 15m

8 5+ 15m

It's a Beauty, 6b+, 35m.
It's All Greek to Me, 6a+, 35m.
White Shield, 6a+, 35m.
Put a Zeus in It, 6b/6b+, 25m.
5, 20m.
Lightning Bolt Pitch, 6a, 20m.
Grand Goat Hotel, 4, 15m.
5+, 15m.

70m rope and 15 QDs required.

Set: Francis Haden & Gordon Jenkin

FA: Francis Haden, Gordon Jenkin & Tom Rogers, 1 Oct 2016

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