Ascents in Utopia

2nd go. Took us a while to figure out the start beta since a few of the holds were totally trashed from under-use. After a little cleaning an a beta burn each, the send came easy. Felt like a kilterboard problem. Start on the big white tufa blob to the right of the first bolts.

Way better than the topoguide announces. Technical. Thanks Liuba.

Soft

Probably will try this again if we come here again it is hard traversing to the right at the top.

So good! so happy to have committed to work on this one and committed at the top Very fun sequences!

The epitome of 6c grey slab… second type of fun.

Belayed at first bolt as otherwise.. it’s not protected for a long way. Scrambled in from the side. There’s a ledge. It looks like that’s where it starts in the guide too. Mixture of grey slab and orange wall.

That was quite a journey! I had to come down at the first go because my finger was bleeding before I could figure out the top part. 2nd go was good till the top. 3rd go I broke a crucial hold after the crux. 4th go was a mental battle but I hold on till the chains.

2nd go, unexpected! Tufa wrestling, a good rest and a pretty steep pinchy boulder crux, but not over till you clip the chains

So many kneebars and it's still super pumpy..

Failed at the very end. Found the finish hard to read and probably stiff for the grade regardless.

5 R kneebars + 1 L knebbar

Too tired to care today. It’s an ok climb.

I’m calling jet lag...

Short, but fun. Maybe harder than 7b? 4 tries