A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Zorgo Balint Kucsera Marcell Kuczik László Csengeri Fehér Csaba Bukóczki Tamás Attila Balog brsbikes Csanád Szloboda Brigitta Csizmadia
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Table of contents
- 1.
Hámor
94 in Crag
- 1.1. Kis Fal 41 in Cliff
- 1.2. Nagy fal 51 in Cliff
- 1.3. Ementáli tábla 2 in Cliff
- 1.4. Apokalipszis fal 0 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hámor 94 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 48.106719, 20.635944
summary
Well developed climbing are at the eastern side of Bükk, in Felsőhámor.
description
Well protected 6-40m high climbing routes on varied limestone rock formations - crack climbing, face climbing, overhangs, chimneys and slabs. There are almost 100 routes in the area with countless combination options, grades mostly reside between V and IX (UAII). Since this has been a well-known, easily accesible climbing area for nearly 50 years, the holds and steps on the most popular routes can be very polished. Because of this, some routes might feel hard for the grade. This is primarily a sport climbing crag with a few dry-tooling and some aid climbing routes. Multi-pitch climbing is possible on longer routes. Ice climbing is possible under the suitable conditions with the permission of the crag's governing body (http://www.hszjse.hu/). Being natural limestone cliff faces (not an old quarry like many other Hungarian crags) the rock is generally quite solid, apart from the rear sections of the two main cliffs. The crag is mostly made of the two obvious large cliffs: Kis Fal (Small Wall) and Nagy Fal (Big Wall). For further details, topos and rules (only in Hungarian) see the local governing body's website: http://www.hszjse.hu/hamor
access issues
Climbing is allowed all year long. During nesting time of specific bird species, climbing on certain routes might be prohibited. In such cases, notification is well marked at the route.
approach
The cliffs are literary next to the main road, on the two sides of the road. Parking is possible at Felsőhámor at unrestricted parking spots. Less than 5 min walk to the cliffs.
where to stay
Plenty of apartments around Felsőhámor, Alsóhámor and Lillafüred.
ethic
For further details and rules (only in Hungarian) see the local authority's website: http://www.hszjse.hu/hamor
history
Well-known, designated climbing area since 1972.
1.1. Kis Fal 41 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 48.106779, 20.634633
description
The 25m high limestone cliff north of the road, facing south. The wall's majority is vertically divided into lower half (10-15m high) and upper half (10-15m high). Therefore, many lower routes can be combined with various upper routes, resulting varied 20-25m long climbs.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Tavaszi út | 8 | 10m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Őszi út | 7- | 10m, 4 | |||||
3 | Két nap az élet | 8 | 8m | |||||
4 | ★★ Függöny | 5+ | 11m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Függöny direkt | 7- | 11m | |||||
6 | Német út | 8- | 10m | |||||
7 | Galagonyás | 7- | 12m | |||||
8 |
Gerinces
Climbing on the arête: 7- | 6 | 13m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Sherpa | 6- | 15m | |||||
10 | ★★ Kis fal direkt / Direkt | 6 | 15m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | Csokibár | 9- | 15m | |||||
12 | ★ Kentucky home | 8+ | 15m | |||||
13 | Kitti depresszió | 7+ | 14m | |||||
14 | ★ Pihe / Háromszög repedés | 5+ | 14m | |||||
15 | ★★ Háromszög direkt | 6+ | 10m | |||||
16 |
Dry tooling
Specific dry tooling route. Special rubber bollards are mounted on the wall for the ice tools. Also suitable for aid climbing: A2 | 6 | 25m | |||||
17 | ★ Kisháromszög | 5+ | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 | Pesszárium / Odu | 6+ | 20m | |||||
19 | Normál út | 5 | 15m | |||||
20 |
Véres ujjak
Harder left variation of the 'Anita álma' route. | 8+ | 18m | |||||
21 | Anita álma | 7 | 18m | |||||
22 |
Kari útja
A transition from the 'Anita álma' to the right into the 'Elasztikó', combinging the easier sections of the two routes. | 6 | 20m | |||||
23 | Elasztikó | 7- | 19m | |||||
24 |
Kohászati múzeum
Old route. Bolts are removed. Not recommended due to being very close to the road. | 7- | 13m | |||||
25 |
Kirakat
Rightmost climbing on the cliff, next to the road. Old route. Bolts are removed. Not recommended due to being very close to the road. | 7 | 6m | |||||
26 |
Szitár
Starting point can be reached via the 'Normál út' | 8 | 6m | |||||
27 |
Kerülő
Starting point can be reached via the 'Normál út' | 8 | 6m | |||||
28 |
Kemény kalap áthajlása
Harder variation of the 'Kemény kalap', climbing to the right, directly across the overhanging upper section. Starting point can be reached via the 'Normál út' | 7+ | 15m | |||||
29 |
★★ Kemény kalap
Starting point can be reached via the 'Normál út'. | 5+ | 14m | |||||
30 |
Projekt
Project | 8m | ||||||
31 |
Olasz tető
Second pitch of the 'Kitti depresszió' | 8 | 12m | |||||
32 |
★★ Ypszilon / Repedések
Natural continuation ot the 'Csokibár' and 'Kentucky home' along the upper crack. | 5+ | 10m | |||||
33 |
Fűszer-csemege
Natural continuation of the 'Gerinces', 'Sherpa' and 'Direkt' along the upper crack. | 6 | 10m | |||||
34 |
Blériot álma
Natural continuation of the 'Német út' and 'Galagonyás' | 9- | 10m | |||||
35 |
'92 nyara
The starting point can be reached via the 'Függöny' and 'Függöny direkt'. | 8- | 10m | |||||
36 |
Trió
The starting point can be reached via the 'Függöny'. | 5+ | 8m | |||||
37 |
Zebrapont
Second pitch of 'Tavaszi út', 'Őszi út' or 'Függöny'. | 8 | 7m | |||||
38 |
Anonymus
Second pitch of 'Tavaszi út', 'Őszi út' or 'Függöny'. | 7+ | 7m | |||||
39 |
Mágneses ragyogás
Starting point can be reached via the 'Nagy travi'. | 7 | 6m | |||||
40 |
Bevágás
Starting point can be reached via the 'Nagy travi'. | 5 | 6m | |||||
41 | Nagy travi | 4 | 9m |
1.2. Nagy fal 51 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 48.106159, 20.635622
description
The 40m high cliff south of the road, over the river, facing West. Many routes are farther down in the woods, starting from the higher grounds.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jégcsavar | 7- | 6m | |||
2 |
★★ Pillér
Until the 1st anchor: 3+ Between the 1st and 2nd anchor: 5- | 5- | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Komarnicki emlékút
The starting point can be accessed via several lower routes. | 5+ | 11m | |||
4 | ★★★ Nyifi-nyafi | 7 | 10m | |||
5 | Tiki-taki | 7+ | 10m | |||
6 | Mamiya | 8 | 10m | |||
7 | Quasimodo | 9- | 9m | |||
8 | Őrült Mózes hajléka / Hajlék | 8+ | 7m | |||
9 | Barlangász emlékút | A2 | 25m | |||
10 | Amerikai traverz | 6+ | 12m | |||
11 | Amerikai tető | 9 | 13m | |||
12 |
John Lennon
The starting point can be accessed via several lower routes. | 7 | 7m | |||
13 | Acélváros | 7+ | 13m | |||
14 |
Teve
Natural continuation of the 'Amerikai tető". | 10 | 6m | |||
15 |
Tábla
Natural continuation of the 'Teve' | 8- | 7m | |||
16 |
Suhatag
Climbing through the 'Amerikai tető', 'Teve' and 'Tábla' as one continous route. | 10 | 25m | |||
17 | Púpos | 9- | 11m | |||
18 | Parabellum | 8+ | 14m | |||
19 | Tál | 7+ | ||||
20 | Doktori disszertáció | 7- | 14m | |||
21 | L út | 5+ | 16m | |||
22 | Verseny út | 6- | 9m | |||
23 | Tankcsapda | 6- | 10m | |||
24 | Erőkar | 7+ | 20m | |||
25 | Építőtábor | 7 | 16m | |||
26 | Misztérium-tető / Nagy plafon | A2 | 17m | |||
27 | Csada út | 8+ | 16m | |||
28 | Málnás | 7+ | 15m | |||
29 | TF / Tető feletti traverz | 6 | 22m | |||
30 | Heavy metal | 7+ | 12m | |||
31 | Él | 7+ | 11m | |||
32 | Challenger | 8 | 12m | |||
33 | Agárvér | 7 | 18m | |||
34 |
Munkás osztály nagy traverze
Starting through the first section of 'Pillér', into 'Komarnicki emlékút' and then traversing on the higher sections of the wall into the anchor of 'Agárvér'. | 6+ | 80m, 4 | |||
35 | Zuhatag | 8 | 10m | |||
36 | Hadiút | 6 | 8m | |||
37 | Gekkó | 7 | 8m | |||
38 | Vének útja / Öregek útja | 6 | 11m | |||
39 |
Kompresszor
Harder variation on the lower section of the 'Öregek útja' | 8 | 11m | |||
40 |
Hol vagy Pista
Should be avoided due to potential rock fall. | 8- | 14m | |||
41 |
Rongyidő
Decommissioned due to rock fall danger. | 8- | ||||
42 |
Rongyidő direkt
Decommissioned due to rock fall danger. | 8 | ||||
43 |
KGB
Decommissioned due to rock fall danger. | 7+ | ||||
44 | Body mix | 7+ | 18m | |||
45 | Születésnapi út | 7- | 18m | |||
46 | Csaba útja | 6+ | 15m | |||
47 | ★ 18. születésnap | 6 | 14m | |||
48 | ★ B. él | 5+ | 10m, 1 | |||
49 | J. él | 5+ | 10m | |||
50 | Zaklatás | 6- | 14m | |||
51 | Varicsella | 6 | 17m |
1.3. Ementáli tábla 2 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 48.106183, 20.635343
description
The 6m high small cliff in front of the Nagy Fal, where the forest begins. Dedicated dry-tooling training rock.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Retikül | 7+ | 6m | |||
2 |
Dry-tooling
Dedicated dry-tooling route (with mounted artifical holds and fixed rope as of 2020.) | 6m |
1.4. Apokalipszis fal 0 routes in Cliff
description
CLIMBING ON THIS WALL IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED! This wall is just above the small artifical dam of the river, about 150m to the East from the two large cliffs, along the main road.