Garhwal Himalaya Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Garhwal Himalaya 12 routes in Area

1 3 2

1 Satopanth 2 Maldevta Rock Climbing Area 3 Gangotri Group

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371008, 78.757876

summary

Home to the Gangotri National Park which covers 2390 square km and home to some of the most iconic and distinct peaks such as Shivling, Meru, Bhagirathi, Thalay Sagar, etc.

description

The Garhwal Himalayas are mountain ranges located in the state of Uttrakhand, India.

access issues

The road to Gangotri can be blocked by landslides and floods.

approach

Access to Gangotri National Park is via the holy town of Gangotri. If approaching from Delhi, take an overnight train from Delhi to Dehradun and then travel by road to Gangotri (3415m) via Musoori (2005m). Most people choose to overnight in Musoori and then continue to Gangotri the next day. The road ends at Gangotri after which access to all the peaks in the Gangotri National Park are via foot.

where to stay

Gangotri (3415m)

1.1. Satopanth 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 30.846746, 79.210272

description

Mount Satopanth (7075m) is one of the most prominent peaks of the Garhwal of Himalayas and the second highest peak in Gangotri National Park.

approach

Gangotri -> Chirbasa -> Bhojbasa -> Nandanvan -> Vasuki Tal (BC) -> ABC (optional) -> C1 -> C2 -> C3 (optional) -> Summit

history

First climbed along the northeast ridge by a Swiss party in 1947 consisting of André Roch, René Ditterit, Alexander Graven and Alfred Sutter

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Northeast Ridge The standard ascent route on Satopanth follows the Northeast ridge which was the same route climbed by the first ascent. The route consists of glacier travel to the base of the peak and then climbing over a rock face (which, depending on the time of year could be mixed ice and snow) to get onto the lower slopes of the peak. The route includes a knife ridge between 6100m and 6500m consisting of exposure at both sides. FA: André Roch, René Ditterit, Alexander Graven & Alfred Sutter, 1947	{FR} AD	Alpine 2200m

1.2. Maldevta Rock Climbing Area 8 routes in Area

2 1

1 Maldevta Intermediate Crag 2 Maldevta Beginner Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.380507, 78.160457

summary

Maldevta Rock Climbing Area- Two crags have been developed near Maldeveta, Dehradun for sport climbing. The crags are right next to the Song river having river-washed Shale rock.

description

The routes are well protected with bolts and anchors having chains/crane-hooks/rings. A 50-meter rope is sufficient. Don't forget your helmet as sheep and monkeys frequent the trails above the crag. You don't need any permission to climb in this area. The summer season does attract Dehradun locals to the riverside where they drink, cook and party. If they choose to party around the rocks then you can request them to move a little away.

access issues

The summer season does attract Dehradun locals to the riverside where they drink, cook and party. If they choose to party around the rocks then you can request them to move a little away.

Season: All months of the year except Monsoon months ie. July, August, and September. Don't try your luck on rainy days, as the chances of rockfall Post-monsoon crossing the river is challenging, so be careful.

approach

How to reach The climbing area is about 15 km from the Dehradun city centre. lIt's best to have a private vehicle to reach the crag. The Maldevta Temple Reniwala They still conduct their training on weekdays at the is your first landmark, which is 5 km away from the crags. Drive straight from the temple keeping the river on the right and do not cross any bridge. The 'GoStops' hostel which is 1.5 km before the climbing area is a good landmark. Once you reach the crag, cross the river by jumping across boulders. Location Coordinates: 30.378680, 78.159411

where to stay

Pitching a tent on top of the intermediate area is nice. 'GoStops' hostel which is 1.5 km before the climbing area is a good landmark

history

BSF- Indian armed forces called Border Security Force had first explored these faces and marked them in 2013. They still conduct their training on weekdays at the beginner climbing location. However, they don't use the intermediate area so much. They are very much okay with climbers climbing the rock they have marked.

Early exploration were made by Nitesh, Loki and Shekhar by top roping some of the routes on trad anchors. Yash with the help of Himanshu is responsible for bolting and cleaning up most routes in this area. Special thanks to Tony Da for initiating the development, he bolted the routes-1, 2, and 3. And Mohit Oberoi for his guidance and hardware support.

1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 30.378676, 78.159465

summary

Maldevta Intermediate Crag

description

The crag is next to the Song river having river-washed Shale rock. It has a mix of overhang and vertical climbing with huge jugs and sloper holds, along with some crack climbing in the mix.

approach

How to reach The climbing area is about 15 km from the Dehradun city centre. lIt's best to have a private vehicle to reach the crag. The Maldevta Temple. Drive straight from the temple keeping the river on the right and do not cross any bridge. The 'GoStops' hostel which is 1.5 km before the climbing area is a good landmark. Once you reach the crag, cross the river by jumping across boulders.

1.2.2. Maldevta Beginner Crag 0 routes in Crag

summary

Maldevta Beginner Crag

1.3. Gangotri Group 3 routes in Area

1

1 Mt. Shivling

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 30.817456, 79.150645

description

The Gangotri Group of mountains is a subdivision of the Garhwal Himalaya in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand. It rings the Gangotri Glacier, and contains peaks that are notable either for their religious significance to Hindus, for their difficult climbing routes, or both. Climbs on three of the peaks (Thalay Sagar, Shivling, and Meru) have resulted in the awarding of the prestigious (but controversial) climbing award, the Piolet d'Or. Source Wikipedia

1.3.1. Mt. Shivling 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 30.881583, 79.066486

description

Shivling is a mountain at tapovan in the Gangotri Group of peaks in the western Garhwal Himalaya, near the snout of the Gangotri Glacier, one of the biggest glaciers in the Himalayas, and Tapovan, a beautiful lush meadows, both being also popular pilgrimage sites in Hinduism. It lies in the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, 6 kilometres (4 mi) south of the Hindu holy site of Gaumukh (the source of the Bhagirathi River). Its name refers to its status as a sacred symbol -Shiva Linga. It was called "Matterhorn Peak" by early European visitors because of its similarity in appearance to that Alpine peak. While not of locally great elevation, it is a dramatic rock peak, and the most visually striking peak as seen from Gaumukh; that and the difficulty of the climb make it a famed prize for mountaineers. Source Wikipedia

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5b			Naram-Garam	Sport 16m, 5		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
5c+			Pragati	Sport 12m, 4		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
6a+		★★	Shilajit	Sport 10m, 3		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
6b		★★	Punya-Paap	Sport 17m, 5		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
6b+			Krantiveer	Sport 23m, 11		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
7 A4 M6		★★★	Shiva´s Line	Alpine 1400m		1.3.1. Mt. Shivling
6c			Punarjanma	Sport 18m, 8		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
7a			YYY	Sport 12m, 5		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
7a+			XXX	Sport 12m, 5		1.2.1. Maldevta Intermediate Crag
?			North Pillar	Alpine		1.3.1. Mt. Shivling
			West Ridge	Alpine		1.3.1. Mt. Shivling
AD		★★	Northeast Ridge	Alpine 2200m		1.1. Satopanth