Routes in India for selected grade

SDS

SDS on next boulder R

Start with undercut

B7 P1. Left hand side of boulder.

Sit down start

L - R traverse of distinctive horizontal edge. Turn corner point, and mantle end lip.

Crazy crux start to beautiful finish. Next climb past the Easy Rope route. Climb up the left side arete of the chimney.

No bolts for first 15-20 feet. Long moves.

little dynamic movement start with side climbing towards the top, mail-on bail.

Overhanging right to left traverse.

Traverse from right to left with good holds.

Starts behind the large boulder in the main gully. Caution: starting bolts are missing

Top anchor has 2 hanger bolts, each with one mylon.

first two clips of this route are shared by the next route Sonador.

Left hand most climb on the main wall. Bit reachy for shorter folks, and can seem harder than 6b.

Shares the same start as Porotos Con Rienda but traverses left after the third bolt.

Short route with powerful moves up to the second bolt.

An easy traverse with lots of large pockets that get easier higher up. Pre-clip the first bolt

A sustained and dynamic climb with a surprise and possibly reachy crux sequence in the middle.

Saraswati tower left hand route Two bolts missing in the route, rappel to clean anchors over the lip.

This route is the only one in Saabarpadi. Ganesha, showed us the route and helped us set up the anchors. While bolting this route a rain storm came in and I was stranded on the wall for quite a while. Akshay had to jumar up and retrieve the fixed rope in the dark, hence the name.

Good line, some holds may have broken pumping this up. Has anchors

Great line, shares first 2 bolts with 7b+ then traverses right.

Offwidth.

Crux within the lower 18 feet and then a scramble through the gulley. Top out through the face to the left or top out on the ledge to the right.

Betax

Exit: Walk off from the right (west)

Best time: Till noon or post 4 pm.

Rack: Off-width gear including #4 and #5 BD cams.

Anchor: Tree on the ledge to bring up the partner, or the crack to the left above the face to top rope. The crack takes small pieces, finger to finger and half sizes.

Natural anchor: Difficult, but not impossible.

FKA: Sohan, belayed by Kiran Kallur. June 26th, 2021.

Through the chimney, over the boulder, reach for the jug left of the bolt, and then continues this story of a line. The crux, between the fifth and the sixth bolt, is a series of delicate moves using the crimps; aesthetic movement on strong fingers and deliberate footwork, with subtle body positioning making the difference between failure and success.

Route by Sohan. 21st October, 2022.

A dramatic route that requires some creative rope work. Or use double ropes.

The second high boulder north of Chagara. About 12-13 meters at its highest point.

This key section of this line is a traverse on the north face of the boulder, and then the unprotected traverse to the right or climb diagonally along the bolts to the top.

Rack: Finger-sized pieces.

FA: Sohan, with support from Amith BV., Charan H., & Amrit A. August 17th, 2022.

Two versions. One using the chimney, and the other avoids the chimney. If using the chimney, the top-out is the crux (5.10a). If using only the face, the crux is between the first and the second bolt, about 5.10c/d moves.

If not topping-out, the grade is 5.8.

Delightful line; requires all the respect it deserves, else will spit you out.

Route by Amrit A. & Sohan. Sep 25th, 2022. FA, Sohan. Sep 28th, 2022.

Roof, hand and fist crack Shares the second half of the route with Paathala.

Instead of getting into the cave use the full body chimney, traverse right and move into the roof crack.

The crux is getting out of the roof, over the roof onto the massive ledge.

The route joins Paathala, after the ledge.

FFA: Aravind Selvam, Dec 2017.

Offwidth crack

The crack starts to the right on the south facing wall, as a hand crack, traverses left and opens up into the crux off-width. Past the offwidth, further short traverse to the left as hand crack and then along a flake and then the heady but easy top- out.

Rack: Upto #4, or #5 (optional).

Anchor: Crack (Finger and hand cracks)

Natural Anchor: Boulder and tree. Long anchor.

FKA, Sohan with support from Amrit Appaden and Karthik Maddineni, Feb 2021

The traverse from right to left, along the crack, and top out through the Decepticon line. Creative placements in the crack for the traverse. Vertical crack is well protected.

The crux is the traverse section to connect to the vertical crack.

Rack: Hand-sized pieces and below.

Top Anchor: Since a traverse, a top-anchor that would connect the entire traverse might be complex. However, a top anchor from atop the boulder could be setup using small pieces, or just pink-point as your project the traverse, with pre-placed gear in the crack.

FKA: Aalok Bharadwaj pink-pointed on, Dec 11,2021.

Finger & Hand crack

The thin finger crack on mildly overhanging wall, converts to a hand crack after about 15 feet, following by top out via a mild roof. Another body length of climbing over slabbish section to the flat top.

Sustained line for the grade with beautiful movement, intense gear placements, and with a satisfying top-out. The right beta will make this line either a 10ish route, or if you blow the beta, will seem like a 11ish line.

While the lower section is easy at the grade, the gear placements could be difficult to make while climbing until the ledge. Hence the PG.

Exit: After the top-out, walk left over to the next boulder, and chimney down, through the cave.

Rack: Finger- and hand-sized pieces to lead, and hand-sized pieces for top anchor.

Top anchor: Along the crack on the slab section, hand-sized pieces. Or further up on the top, larger hand-sized crack.

Natural anchor: A tree further behind and to the left of the top-out. Between 5 to 10 meters in length of cordage for natural anchor.

FA: Sohan with Akhil Menon & Kiran Kallur, Oct 23rd, 2021

The crux is in the first 10 odd feet. The take off, and getting into the crack is a reach and the crux. The intensity continues past the third crack as well, until the slab.

Placements are from difficult stances. Much easier to highball this line out.

Rack: Small to mid-sized cams. The first crack takes a ball-nut, but rather a single crashpad might be better.

Anchor: Long anchors using the boulders and cracks behind.

Natural anchor: Possible, but will require, really long lengths (50- or 60-foot) of cordage.

FKA: Gaurav Jagadish, Nov 24th, 2021.

Along the south-west corner. Easy start for the first 15-feet, then either along the feature to the right or the arete to the left.

To the left, along the arete is stiff, as is to the right along the feature.

Shyam identified line.

Route by Sohan and Tanvi. FA - Vikram Murthy

Starts on the slab, goes over the roof, and traverses left. Crux move requires balance moves using thin finger pinches.

Route credit: Sohan & Satish Venkatachaliah. FFA, Aby Iyer. (Dec 2015).

This is the 3rd route from the left side. Bolted by Pranesh Manchaiah in August 2020. Clip into the first bolt from the ground and the first crux move is the dyno start. There are other crux moves at bolt 3 and 4.

The horizontal cracks on this climb are deceiving. They are shallow and flaring.

The Dyno move to the first holds sets the pace for the high 5.10ish intensity and doesn’t let up until the fifth bolt.

Top rope route by Pranesh Manchiah & Keerthi Pais, bolted for lead by Sohan Pavuluri, Alok Tater & Dhiraj Deka. FFA, Sohan Pavuluri

Located to the south-west corner of the crag, facing south. An old trad line first climbed by Gunda Srinivas, Guru & Datta in 1988. Gunda is associated with pre-bolted routes era of Bangalore climbing, and is known for some bold crack first ascents.

“...the name is after the small roof like overhang section at end of 1st pitch leading into the beginning of the crack. The crack itself is mainly shoulder and thigh jam... Those days we used to climb with 50-meter ropes. Overall the climb is about 75 meters. 1st pitch on slab 35 meters, 2nd pitch crack 30 meters & final 10-15 meters to exit...” – Kamalesh V.

Was explored by Aravind S, Gowri, Gokul, Gujju, and others in Jan 2018. The base was horribly overgrown, and the climb was considered to be stiffer than the indicated grade.The base is currently overgrown and will need considerable effort to get to the base and climb. Or rap down and climb.

P1: 5.9. 25 meters. 6 + 2 bolts.

Starts in the corner, switches back and forth between the slab and the corner crack. The short pitch ends below the overhang. The climb is fairly new, so still shedding rock, but very enjoyable.

P2: 5.11a. 50 meters. 11 bolts + 2.

Reaching the first bolt is a bit heady considering the ledge fall, but an easy lower 5.10 or lower grade move.

The route kicks up in grade after the first bolt, and the crux is between bolt one and bolt three. Requires you to use a corner crack, stem, side pull, slab climb, edge, crimp, and a repertoire of skills, in a very short section. As of 2017, the holds are flaky, and corner a bit chossy. Once this settles down, the moves will be much more enjoyable.

The route remains a stiff slab climb till the sixth bolt of the pitch. Thereafter it eases up. If you may not see the bolts, as they are bit hidden, so climb the most natural line, and you will find them.

Exit: Traverse to High on Grass**.

Route by Prani.

P1: 5.8. 28 meters. 5 + 2 bolts.

The first bolt is about 30 odd feet from the ground, on 5.5-5.6 terrain. Bolt 4 to 5 can be a potential ledge fall.

P2: 5.11a. 50 meters. 13 + 2 bolts.

Sometimes placement of the bolts in relationship to the line is critical to get the most out of a Sport line. And the brilliant bolting here makes this route sublime for someone pushing into the 5.11s. Allows for the rush with seemingly out of reach bolts at times, and then keeps the climb largely safe. You shouldn’t come out of this climb with more than bruised and bashed, knees and ego, at its worst. So, if you want to push your limits, absolutely throw yourself at this climb.

The crux is in getting from bolt 1 to bolt 2, and the section is ever so slightly bulging out. The crux requires a degree of commitment than the actual technical difficulty of the moves. The route is sustained higher 5.10 slab, thereafter. It doesn’t let up until the last 30-40 feet of the pitch. Extremely well protected.

Exit: Traverse to High on Grass**

Route credit: Pranesh Manchaiah

The route starts on the boulder at the base of the crag, protected by a bolt, and continues up, directly under the roof. If you traverse right along the crack, you would have taken an easy variation of the original route.

The initial slab moves on the boulder take off and the roof transition are the hardest moves in this entire climb. Otherwise, will go at 5.10a or b for a small section and considerably lower for rest of the route.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah

This variation follows the same line but uses the crack instead of the bolts after the fourth bolt on the roof. And then again you clip the penultimate bolt to protect the slab.

Well protected slab characterised by delicate moves, high steps and side pulls

The stiff slab start gets you on to a ledge under the tree and the crux involves getting over the roof, with no good feet to assist.

Route credit: Gerhard Schaar & Pranesh Manchaiah.

No bolted anchors. There is a tree at the top so have to rapell down using the tree.

Moves on arete and slab. Immediately to the right of Vasuki.

Route credit: Sohan & Balram Warrier. FFA: Vikram Murthy

Opened by Lopsang Thisring, Kamalesh & other members of 'The Climbers' in 1987 during IMF All India Camp.

Mixed Sport and Trad line. This singular climb is located on the upper Achalu wall. You could either climb one of the routes on the lower Achalu wall to reach it or hike up from the right-side ridge. Once you climb the lower Achalu wall, the top is a plateau/ledge, and then the upper Achalu wall rises above it. The approach is a bit of an adventure in itself; through the thicket at the base. The route is extremely rewarding experience.

Gear needed: 60-meter rope. A dozen draws (including alpine draws). Rack from #.3 through #2, and two-three tricams (pink/red/brown).

P1: 5.10a. 20 meters. 4 bolts plus a couple of placements + 2 bolts.

Starts on a diagonal crack, left to right, and then traverses right for two bolts, then straight up. Crux involves the traverse from bolt one to two, and then again just after the fourth bolt.

P2: 5.10d. 25 meters. 9 + 2 bolts. Sustained and pumpy moves. Mildly runout after the 9th bolt.

P3. 5.9. 32 meters. 3 bolts plus series of placements + 2.

A series of horizontal cracks and a single bolt for about 40 feet. Thereafter, no protection on 5.6 terrain for 12 odd meters, until the next bolt. Then angle left for 10 meters on the slab, to find the anchor station.

Route credit and FFA: Jakob Jo, Paul Zeltner & Adwaith Manohar (2014). The route was retro bolted in Jan 2018 per the request of Paul & Jakob to make it safer. Previously there were two bolts on P1, four bolts on P2, and one bolt on P3. If you wish to follow the old line, avoid all bolts that have Gipfel hangers. Before being retro bolted, the route saw one partial second ascent upto P2, by Vineeth Katarki and Ravee Bhat. • Exit by walking off to the right and exiting off the lower Achalu.

P1: 5.8. 29 meters. 8 + 2 bolts.

Usual slab for about 20 meters, then the headwall with ‘pockets’, and then over a ledge to reach the anchors of the first pitch.

P2: 5.11a. 10 meters. 4 + 2 bolts

If the route feels harder, or ‘chossy’, you have missed the line.

Route Credit: Shyam Krishnakumar, Vinay Kaushik, Narayan Pai, Amit Manikoth, Sohan. Dec 2018

FFA: Srivats Vats

Bold first pitch with no gear in first 10 to 15m

Old bolts with a fence at the base. Hence currently not safe to climb.

Multi-pitch traverse route with additional plans to extend. Currently can be climbed as a six-pitch route, including any of the routes #3, #4, or #5 as the first pitch, and then the roof traverse onwards as the subsequent pitches. Preferred pitch to start with is Licked by the Labradoodle . That would make it a 250-meter route.

The traverse goes under the roof, along the crack. Intermittent bolts to protect, and Rap stations or alternate routes to exit along the way.

Gear needed; a set of nuts, double rack of cams from #.3 onwards till #3, and one #4

The route, except for the last 5.10d pitch was created ground up, and on three of the pitches, I lugged both a gear rack and a drill simultaneously. Fortunately, they turned out to be easy pitches.

Gear needed; one or two pieces. A couple from the range, #0.3 to #1.0

The pitch starts at the end of the anchor stations of the routes 1, 2, & 3 of the Jungle set of routes. Four bolts protect an easy but with sketchy crack that has multiple boulders wedged in the wide crack. In sections the crack widens to body width. The last 20 feet of this traverse may need a one or two pieces or trust the bolt to traverse across.

During the last couple of visits, post summer, the entire pitch was smeared with monkey shit.

Pitch credit; Vineeth Katarki, Griffin Ernest & Sohan (Mar 2019)

Optional Exit: Rap off the The Bean Stalk anchor station. Two 30-meter rappels.

P2: 5.7G, 40 meters. 1 + 2 bolts.

Gear needed: Rack from micro nuts to #4. Doubles of #3, and micro nuts needed.

This Pitch starts at the top of the second pitch anchor station of ‘The Bean Stalk’ and shares the third pitch of ‘The Bean Stalk’ for about 20 feet.

Excellent line, with good protection, traverse under the crack for about 25 meters, then a bolt where the crack fades away (placed on lead), and then angle below the cactus to the anchor station. Crux is right at the beginning, to the right of the big boulder sticking out, for about 10 feet. Frictionless slab, and the crack is not very positive in this section. Optionally, place a pro in the crack, and walk the slab below the crack till the point, the crack becomes positive.

Pitch credit; Sohan & Griffin Ernest. (Mar 2019)

Optional Exit: Three rappels off with a 60-meter rope. You will land on top of the Route #14 of the old routes.

P3: 5.6G, 55 meters. 4 + 2 bolts.

Gear needed: micros to #4

From the anchor stations, climb up the slab (15 feet) to the thin crack traversing right. The crack is filled with mud and vegetation for the first 20 meters, but intermittently clean enough to place gear. After about 20 odd meters, the first bolt marks the start of exposed scramble. One more bolt, then past the Plan Bee off width crack, then two more bolts, negotiating past clumps of grass and cacti, and finally to the anchor station.

A slog over, before best of the climbing on this route begins.

Pitch credit: Sohan & Vineeth K. (Apr 2019)

If planning to exit from here, three options.

Optional Exit: Two rappels on 60-meter rope. 27- & 31-meters length. Need a 70-meter rope. Or jump off at the last meter.

Traverse back to the Plan Bee ‘off width’ crack and climb out.

Or the Plan C exit is directly above the anchor stations. Unprotected, easy climbing over a diagonal ledge.

P4: 5.8+G/5.10aG, 45 meters. 1 + 2 bolts.

Gear needed: micros to #4. Doubles of #.75 through #3.

From the anchor stations, first crux, climb up the and traverse right. Do note that this pitch again has tendency to get the rope stuck in the crack. So, best if the first piece is placed to the far right in the crack, instead of placing above the belayer. If you do feel the need to protect, back clean. But be considerate to protect your follower as well.

Continue around the corner to the bolt. Avoid weighting the block of sketchy rock wedged in the crack, just before the bolt. The crux is about 15 odd meters after the bolt. Requires some down climbing on the face. Not so much of an issue for the leader. Will be terrifying for the follower.

Or if you don’t downclimb, and use the crack, the route grade jumps up a bit.

Some more sublime climbing, and then two bolts greet you for the end of the crack traverse. You might miss them, as they are above the roof.

DO NOT RAPPEL from here. Colony of beehives about 25 meters below. Plus, may require two 60-meter ropes to rap off. Reverse the traverse to the previous anchor stations. Or top out via the next pitch.

Pitch credit: Sohan, Griffin E., & Satish V. (May 2019)

P5: 5.10d, 5.9 A0, 30 meters. 8 + 2 bolts

The line has some highly aesthetic moves on exposed terrain, and fine climbing on a bolted line.

Bolted anchor station exists here, to allow for sport climbers to rappel and climb this pitch independent of the traverse.

There is a ledge, about eight feet below the anchor station. Create a chariot belay, to allow the climber to climb unencumbered by clutter at the anchor station, and to reduce the risk of a high factor fall.

Crux is the take off. First lead bolt, about three feet above the anchor station to the right, to mitigate the risk of climber falling on to the anchor. Suggested to pre- clip this to reduce the fall factor.

Thereafter, the bolts are spaced out, but the route is well protected.

Next crux after the take-off, is at the first roof, about 25 feet above. 5.10b/c roof.

Subsequent to the roof, the route gets easier, but still has enough punch to keep you entertained till the anchor station.

Both crux moves can be aided, considering the bolt placements. Hence the alternate 5.9 A0 rating.

Pitch credit: Sohan, Karthik Vijaykumar, Narayan Pai, Griffin E., & Srivats.

Entire route from Licked by the Labradoodle to the P5 of Meghaduta FFA: Poonacha Medapa & Sohan (July 2019)

Mantle start on a flaring horizontal crack (four-five feet off the ground), and then thin crimpy holds and precise footwork for the crux past the first bolt.

Past the second bolt, rest of the climb is the usual climbing on dinner plates.

Start the climb, along the right facing arete, following by a short crack. Crux is between bolts 3 & 4 below the bulge.

Exciting technical moves on thin flakes, side cuts, and shallow crack for fingers; pick your choice of moves. The climb remains exciting all the way to the anchor station, including a large shelf to mantle, just before the anchor station.

You can avoid the mantle, by keeping to the right of the bolts.

The climb’s start is punctuated by a young neem tree growing in front of it.

Be gentle with the tree. It could help soften the grade at some point. If you pre-clip the first bolt and climb from left of the tree along the arete, and continue to the second bolt, the grade is no harder than 5.10a/b, but still an excellent and enjoyable climb, that takes you along crystal block to your right and crimpy slab to your left.

If you reach the bolt along crimpy and slabby finger pockets, grade jumps just for those few moves.

Project above the line is to extend it for a multi-pitch to the roof. Anchor stations in place

Three-pitch line, currently with top bolts.

Will eventually be bolted up for lead.

About 60 odd meters to the right of route Street Hawk.

The first bolt is committing. Crux between 6th and 7th bolt.

Crux is at the base and at the top mostly.

Top part is very flaky, Helmets must for climber and Belayer.

Starts just right of a low scoop, and then steps left to the scoop and bolted. Mostly not too hard, except one crux around the 3rd or 4th bolt.

Very hard start -- slabby feet to move up to a rail, but hard to reach. Easier after start.

Next route to the right.

This climb starts with a 2-3 finger pocket and crimpy edge reachable from the ground, then moving up through a couple more pockets. Start sequence is hardest part of route.

Next route to the right.

Another 20 odd feet to the left of Cane Toad is Bombs Away.

Root growing out of the upper part, where it eventually turns into a slab.

Sometimes has a beehive on the route.

Exit off the tree.

A Mohit Oberoi Route

Off width crack. Gear required, #2 to #6 BD cams.

Aravind’s first route.

FFA: Aravind Selvam, supported by Gujju, Naveen P., Yadav Hanger, Natraj. (May 2017)

Bolts likely need replacing. Hand bolted route.

Far right of Innocent routes

Route by Philip Coquard & Dominic Danard (1989)

P1: 6b+ P2: 5c

Crimps line on right side of face. Partially blocked by toilet shed 2023

Direct up the left side of the face on the road side

Start on the right side of the scoop, and go up. Grade drops significantly if you start on the ledge next to 'Right Mantle'.

Stand start and up the arete

Obvious dihedral just around to the left of the other problems. Can also be made a touch harder avoiding the large jugs on the right

From the huge undercling, then up and over.

The right side of the large flake, just left of 'Zero Expectations'. Avoid rocking around the flake as long as possible.

Stand start just left of parallax, up via good hold. Effectively the finish of Bleeder Middle Finish.

In middle of uphill face (river side), trending up and right.

Grade to be confirmed

Up the left side of the slab

A classic if you're into this sort of thing.

Tucked in an alcove slightly up the hill from 'Brahma', the obvious crack tapering from butterfly/fists to fists/hands, depending on hand size.

Just right of the shrub. Duplicate label in guide.

Start low on the right, then straight up.