Ascents in Sicily as All free with rest

We did this route with poor conditions. At this season of the year there is no sun hence it was especially in the 6b+ and 6b very wet, like Nivea. Nevertheless we managed to do it and the routes are really amazing! Huge recommendation if the conditions are good. We were quite happy with the bolting. Yes, sometimes it’s quite well spaced but in a reasonable way. Also the last to pitches (5c and 5a) are bolted. We didn’t use any trad gear and I wouldn’t consider this route as a grad route.

This route has looooong runouts between bolts - we took a fall of around 8-10m on pitch 4! I consider it dangerous unless 1-2 pieces of trad gear are inserted between every bolt pair. The trad gear is bomber when well placed. The rock has amazing holds and great friction except when the air is humid as it was when we did it. Then you begin to overgrip and quickly run out of juice. It took us until the final moves of pitch 3 to get pumped and take a small fall and good rest.

Description makes perfect sense, don’t think it’s a 6c in today’s condition

beautiful line, very sustained and technical. for me, the crux was to reach the side pull.

fun route!