Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sottosassa | ||||||
| 6a |
★ Diedro Gabrielli
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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The bottom half was quite good, then a few mantles.
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| 6b |
★ Leviti crack
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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Nice enough, had the jamming gloves on
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| 6a+ |
I bocce del paes
| 17m | ||||
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Ok, but not sure what was “ in” so did bridge into crack on opposite wall
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| 6a+ |
★ Derok
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
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A bit dirty, but very 3 d climbing, harder than 6a.
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| 6c+ |
★★ E il diedro
— 3 attempts
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.
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| Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Brigata Tridentina | ||||||
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★★★ Brigata Tridentina
| 600m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
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My first proper via ferrata, without the proper gear of course ( stupid climber). Mostly climbed the rock, about grade 6. Some pretty outrageous territory but it annoyed me as much as an over bolted sport climb because I kept forgetting I was tethered. Nice and quiet- both the route and the lack of motor traffic because the roads are closed today and are for bikes only. I got Dave to drop me at carpark before the curfew, and walked back to our place in Corvara via the eastern descent.
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| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 4 | ||||||
| 6a ~6a |
★ Gamaze
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
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Quite easier, and far easier than route to left.
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| 6a+ ~6b |
★★ Baum
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Way harder than the 6 a+ to the right, which I have take liberty of down grading while upgrading this- took me about 10 minutes to commit to standing up off the ledge.
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| 7a |
★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
Greasy
2
7a
18m
Had to rest when pulling roof. I think I was doing it the hard left hand way, but maybe I was just weak. The rest of the route was fine. | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 6b ~6b+ |
★★ Sandmännchen
| 32m | ★ Good | |||
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I thought I was on the 6c, and it didn’t feel that far off.
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| 6b |
★★ Hexentanz P1
1
6b
8m
Too close to route to left making it escapable at crux (contrived direct, and hard for 6 b) but I did it both ways to cover the bases. | 8m | ||||
| 6a |
★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
Unfortunately the bolt matrix on this wall detracts from the climbing, I followed this middle pitch | 17m | ||||
| Fri 15th Sep 2023 - Höhlensteintal | ||||||
| Landro Settore 3 | ||||||
| 5b |
★★ Nigge-Riss
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
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Ok, but always sad to see a bolted crack.
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| 6b+ ~6b |
★★ Nigge-Kante
| 24m | ★ Good | |||
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I think it’s even soft for 6b, compared to other routes here.
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| Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Sass Dlacia | ||||||
| A | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Placca motoria
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Our start to Chernobyl. A good warm up due to some nice rest stances between the pocket pulling.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Chernobyl
1
5c
28
Did PM instead then continued up past final bolt of this to belay
2
6a+
30
Go straight up to roof past 2 bolts then hand traverse right under roof ( rock fax topo quite poor for route)
3
6a+
29
After exiting the short chimney at the second bolt I missed the next 2 bolts which were off to the right and got back to one above them, exciting! Thought this pitch was also 6 b
4
6b
30
More nice climbing on some old bolts
5
6b+
23
Fantastic steep finale. | 140m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Started on PM as first pitch. Liked all the pitches. Would have done more routes here but sun had hit has by the time we abseiled. 60 m rope needed minimum.
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| Mon 11th Sep 2023 - Città dei Sassi | ||||||
| Sasso Gabriel Climbing | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ DNA
| 19m | ★ Good | |||
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I think this was the one I was on, as had no guidebook. Was good from half way though a bit dirty in places, but at least it wasn’t polished. Mucked up bouldery start to hidden hold.
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| 6a+ |
★★★ Tizi
| 19m | Crap | |||
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Polished rubbish. Feet slipped numerous times and the bolts are spaced enough as is.
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| Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Parte Oscura della Luna | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Indian Summer
1
6a
40m
We started on first bolt of Legoland then joined Indian summer. Quite cold at the start.
2
6a
40m
3
6a
30m
I liked this pitch the best, straight up on amazing pockets
4
5c
30m
Didn’t feel any easier than the rest of the route.
5
6a+
20m
You traverse right off the belay for about 4m, topo implied otherwise
6
6a+
20m
Quite a steep crack, some good moves.
7
6a
20m
The corner crack | 200m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Pretty nice route, especially for a hot day. Seems like Rockfax digital is out of date for access and descent. The descent to the left has a washed away gully after a downclimb to contend with, but I guess we got to go canyoning as well as climb.
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| Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Palla del Guide | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★★ Via Gino Bellumat
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | ||||
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Pleasant and fairly low stress outing on a hot day getting used to altitude and embracing life whilst Preserving knees. Well conceived route, reasonably bolted. Linked 2 and 3 and 4 and 5.
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| Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Comano Terme | ||||||
| 6b+ ~6c |
★★ Delta
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Greased off the start, which was quite reachy first go. Didn’t want to have to repeat so after getting through it second go fought my way to anchors. Maybe 21 if you do laps on it to warm up but hard onsighting
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| 6a+ ~6b |
★ Dritdreiciodi
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
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Grade 20 I reckon, unless you Mc Dougall right badly. A bit polished
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| 6a |
★★ Gigliola
| 18m | ||||
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Good warm up as advertised
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| Wed 6th Sep 2023 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Sarche Piccolo Dain Parete del Centrale | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ Moon bears
- with
dave
1
5-
lead by
dave
Slightly off route but got there in the end
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
A nice pitch that traverses leftwards via tufa features
7
4
8
6-
Reachy crux
9
5-
Finished our 2.5 L water by the top | 250m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very hot, we tried to create a breeze by climbing fast, about 3 hours. Linked 1+2, 3+4, 6+7. May the memory of the FA live on.
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| Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
| 5c |
★★ Pestacolo
| 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
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Nice enough, getting used to the rock. 3 pm too early for shade, improved at 4.
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| 6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | ||||
| 5a |
★★ Fantaghirò
1
5a
10
Warm up | 10m, 13 | ||||
| 6b+ |
★★ Via Per Stefano Vidi
| 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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More nice pockets
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| 6c+ |
★★ Number one
| 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
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| Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Brenta Alta | ||||||
| Crag Raffael and Natalie Vidi | ||||||
| 6b |
Bonet
| 27m | Average | |||
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Bouldery start, not impressed by rock until up high. Great scenery though.
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| 6b |
★★ Brigot
| 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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The rock is a bit ordinary down low, but excellent movement, varied climb, technical in places and pumpy start. Generally overhanging.
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| 6a+ |
★★ Pipot
— 2 attempts
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement
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| 6b |
Pilotu
| 25m | Don't Bother | |||
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Sharp start and moves off ledge have cratering potential. Pulled up stick clip for ledge protection
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| Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Lo scorpione
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
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| 7a |
★★★ Toleranza zero
— 2 attempts
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Started up in new climbing shoes and had to swap at the hands free rest, but still managed to fall off after at mid crux. Worked out a better sequence for the mid crux for height. on sighted the start and end cruxes.
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| 6b+ |
★ Il nido de ragno
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Nice varied route, a little bit of dodgy rock up top
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| 6a |
★ Tuc tuc
| 15m | ||||
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Hardest climb of the day because the jug to get to anchors was so greasy it was near impossible to hang onto, and I couldn’t waste our mistaken purchase of 15 euro friction lab chalk on it! After a few parties had piled a bucket of chalk on it became less greasy
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| 6b |
★★ L'unico vizio de me fiol
| 15m | ||||
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A bit dusty, hard final moves
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| Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Breguzzo | ||||||
| 5+ |
★ Postelari
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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More interesting than appearances suggest
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| 6a+ |
★ Prenzip
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Some nice pockets, but just too many ways to go
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| 6b+ |
★★ Mitildi
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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I thought this was as hard as the 6c, nice varied route. Having the anchor draw on definitely helped
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| 6c |
★★ Bagoi
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
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| Wed 30th Aug 2023 - Croz de le Niere | ||||||
| Formica | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Volion curva
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Liked this one up the pocketed wall. One reachy sequence I had to figure out.
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| 6a |
★ Dolci creature
— 2 attempts
| 15m | Average | |||
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Perhaps it’s the humidity, I said “ take “ at first bolt and came down while the people on the via ferrata under the start proceeded to get out of the way, but that’s because I felt there was a potential to slip on top of them. Felt the climbing was kind of forced, but some nice sequences between
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| 5b |
★★ Il pigro
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Pleasant, about grade 17
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| 6a |
★★ Pilastro Moana
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Got spat off the start first go not a good warm up start, limestone feels so slippery compared to granite
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| Sat 17th May 2014 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
| 7a |
★ Rayleh rayleh
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Again, some damp holds, but avoidable.
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| 6c+ |
★★★ Wat arun
| 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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A long corner that overhung about 5 metres.
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| 6b |
★ Per fottere il potere
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Do the move to the anchor rather than clip from undercling
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| 5c |
★ Test
| 17m | Average | |||
| 6a+ |
★★ Via dei Talebani
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Lots of foot movements
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| 5b |
★★ Arbeit macht stark (Arbeit Mach strach)
| 17m | Average | |||
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Second bolt should be lower
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| 7a+ |
★ Dolphinger
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Short crux sequence, not a great plan on the 10th route of the day
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| 6b |
★★★ Raperonzolo
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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A bit dusty. Got suckered into a sucker pocket
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| 6c+ |
★ Diedrinolo
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Wet pockets. This crag is probably super in late summer.
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| 6b |
★★ Luna
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Some damp ledges, but good moves. Guidebook info regarding crux seems quite wrong
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| Fri 16th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Placche Zebrate | ||||||
| 5c |
★★ Via Claudia(with var Rossi)
| 400m | ★ Good | |||
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Alt leads with dave, did in about 8 long pitches with a 70m rope. About 4 hours. Pleasant easy climbing.
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| Thu 15th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Sarche Sisyphos | ||||||
| 6b+ |
Liuk
| 15m | Don't Bother | |||
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Contrived crap.
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| 6a |
★★ Calippo
| 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Nice corner warm up
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| 6b+ |
★★ Camillino
| ★ Good | ||||
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A little escapable in parts
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| 6c |
★★ Cornetto (Cometto)
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
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Nice start, middle and end, quite goey at the end.
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| 5c |
★★ Croccante
| ★ Good | ||||
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About the only soft route I have encountered in arco
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| 7a |
★★ Coppa Del Nonno
| ★ Good | ||||
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Did the cruxy start ok, sorted the cruxy roof, but the cruxy finish was very tricky, ended up mcdougalling a bit right.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Lampo Di Fulmine
| ★ Good | ||||
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Avoid the ugly sharp start, and enjoy the rest of the climb
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| Tue 13th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Sarche Sisyphos | ||||||
| 6b+ |
★ Spavaldo
| ★ Good | ||||
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Sometimes watching Dave's approach has not been helpful. Quite reachy even using my own beta.
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| 6a 6a+ |
★ Piume Di Struzzo (Piume Di Dtruzzo)
| ★ Good | ||||
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Felt hard as the warm up
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| 6a |
★ Vaselina
| ★ Good | ||||
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Pleasant enough and not that polished
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| 6b |
Il Terzo Sesso
| Average | ||||
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I didn't like this one much, but probably because I came off the bouldery start 3 times.
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| 6c+ |
★★ Estremi Rimedi
| ★ Good | ||||
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Lead it, but crux off large ledge and not game to commit. Less scary on top rope.
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| 7a |
★★ Severance
| ★ Good | ||||
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One attempt. A long move off an undercling. Some good sequences.
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| 6c+ |
★★ Vita Da Corridoio
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
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Arête slapping fun
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| 6b |
★★ Cremino
| 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Finally, a pleasant crag with good bolting, not too much polish, and only slightly sandbagged grades.
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| Mon 12th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
| Belvedere Sector B | ||||||
| 6a+ |
★ Spettacolo
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Nice defined cruxes and not too polished.
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| 5c |
★ Piccola Chimera
| 22m | ★ Good | |||
|
This sector has really stupid bolting with too many in first few metres scramble, in odd positions that create rope drag, then malpositioned to clip up high, and unprotected cruxes. And no one recesses ring bolts.
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| 6a+ 6b |
Via Del Biscotto
| 24m | Crap | |||
|
As unattractive and slippery as an olive oil enema.
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| 6b |
★★ Patatina Fritta
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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About grade 22. Nice moves and not too polished. Harder than route to right.
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| 6b+ |
★★ Renato Butta La Pasta
| 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Preplaced draws. Not slippery and not sandbagged too badly.
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| 6a |
★★ Zucchina Trafelata
| 20m | Don't Bother | |||
|
Slimy
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| 6b |
★★ Warm Up
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
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A steep little unit. Warm down.
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| Sat 10th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Le Piazzole | ||||||
| 6a |
★ Dmitry king of boulder
| 16m | Average | |||
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Pumpy for a 6a
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| 6a+ |
★★ Qixin king of speed
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Hard start
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| 6b+ |
★★ Marija queen of speed
| 18m | ★ Good | |||
|
Top 2/3 is good after crumbly start
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| 7a |
★★ Avana
| 14m | Average | |||
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Found it reachy, and sharp. End of the day mistake.
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| 6b+ |
★ Angy queen of lead
| 20m | Crap | |||
|
Glued together flaky rubbish
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| 6c |
★★★ Ramon king of lead
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
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Nice to be on a tufa.
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| 6a+ 6b+ |
★★ Anna queen of boulder
| 20m | Average | |||
| Fri 9th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
| Falesia Segrom Sector F | ||||||
| 6c+ |
★ Cassio
| 20m | ||||
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Interesting sequences on sharpshooter pockets, but not too bad.
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| 7a+ |
★★ Rosencrantz
| 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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'Flashed' on TR, maybe I should start at this grade and dispense with the 6b lot....steep but juggy start, and then some cool underclings
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| 6b+ |
★★ Guildenstern
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
|
Nice long pitch without too much polish
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| 6a 6a+ |
★★ Medea
| 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Was great except for anchor placement for short. Send tall partner up to put QuickDraw on or have a tantrum like I did.
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| 6b+ |
★ Elena
| 15m | Crap | |||
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Maybe I'm just over slippery polished sandbag 6bs
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| 6c+ |
★★ Lago
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
|
A 6 b that actually felt within the grade range.
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| Thu 8th May 2014 - Nago | ||||||
| Falesia Segrom Sector A | ||||||
| 6b |
★★ Buttress
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
About grade 23, only survived with Dave's beta
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| 6a+ 6a |
★ Unknown 4
| 20m | Average | |||
|
Crappy slimy start, then jugs
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| 5b 5c |
★ Unknown 5
| 20m | Average | |||
|
The start sucked away my enjoyment. So polished.
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| 6b |
★ Chiedi A Beppo
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
My bravery molecules are low on these polished sandbags
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| 6a+ |
★★★ Ruggero Lo Perfido
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
A nice climb that actually felt like the right grade and had decent bolting
|
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| 6c |
★★ Fuori Orario
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
|
Took dave and me 10 goes between us to tick this mega sandbag
|
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| Tue 6th May 2014 - Valle del Sarca | ||||||
| Monte Colt - San Paolo Parete di San Paolo Sud Promontorio di Kroz | ||||||
| 6c |
★★ Without name
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Actually a nice climb but still scarily bolted
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| 6a+ |
Cavoli tui
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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The bottom is about 7a with the polish, the top is still quite nice
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