Routes in Trentino-Alto Adige

A short, steep, and powerful route.

Between "Solimano" and "Marco Gelato".

A start variant of 'One Punch'.

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

The route follows an independent line of holds between Pappagorgia and In Bilico.

As Zeni describes it: "it starts with a dyno followed by a not all too difficult boulder problem that leads past the small roof at the base of Bilico. The slab is relatively easy but the crimps are never really good enough to rest properly. The crux is located in the middle, 4 really small crimps which require perfect footwork. The route doesn’t let up and at 3/4 height there’s another finger crux. Despite being short, there are nevertheless 52 moves. The bolting respects the other climbs at the crag, so it’s fairly runout and although it’s never dangerous, it’s not possible to aid AO your way up. The route is interesting also because, unlike the other climbs, when I bolted it I decided not to place an abseil chain at the top. Instead, you have to mantle over the lip, untie and walk easily back down to the base of the crag."

Underground combined with Thunder Ribes

Pure Dreaming with start on Underground.

Shares the opening section with Bomba. Initially graded 9a+/9b but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi to 9a+.

Connection between 'L’arciere' (8c) and 'Goosfraba' (8c+).

Extension of Omen Nomen.

Connection between 'St. Anger' and Zauberfee.

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Untere Verlängerung von Waldhexe.

Underground combined with Reini's Vibes.

Variant of "Reini's Vibos".

Without artificial holds (there are two - undercling chipped into the ball in the end of the roof, and the ball right above it).

Underground combined with Armagedon.

Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.

• Tomáš Mrázek (May 2002)
• Christian Bindhammer (Autmn 2002)
• Vadim Vinokur
• Kilian Fischhuber (May 2005)
• Cédric Lachat (2007)
• Lukasz Dudek (April 2009)
• Jakob Schubert (March 2010)
• Gabriele Moroni (September 2014)
• Domen Škofic (September 2014)
• Alexander Feichter (March 2015)
• Heli Kotter (2015)
• Leto Cavé (2020)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0

Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a.

Start to the left-hand side of Skyliner, traverse left on small holds, and finish on Businessman.

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Same anchor as Projekt 5

Shares anchor with Belzebù Climbing Team.

Starts on "Reini's Vibes", climbs through "Pietramurata", downclimb boulder with hard heel hook and finger lock.

Follow the path into the woods to the right of "L'ultima" to reach another wall with this route on it.

Sector unknow

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