Routes in Italy for selected grade

Beautiful climb in sound rock, some pitons in the route. It starts in the center of the north face.

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/TORRI_SELLA/VIA_MESSNER/schizzovia_messner.html

Route upwards the tower at the south edge (7 pitches). From there it shares the last 5 pitches with the route "Maria" .

On the east face

Pitches:

3, 5, 4+, 4, 4+,5, 6, 3, 5+, 3, 3

Pitches 9 to 12 are a traverse right on the ledge.

Soste attrezzate con due spit da collegare. La via originale percorre i primi quattro tiri di Sibylla. Questa variante attacca direttamente un diedro impegnativo e si ricongiunge a S4 con due tiri.

https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/alpinklettern/suedtirols-sueden/sarner-scharte-zur-erinnerung-an-ochar-sepp-aka-scoiattolo-/37819502/#dmdtab=oax-tab1

Via trad. Qualche cordone su clessidra. Soste su cordoni, alberi e spuntone.

Via alpinistica moderna. Presenti cordoni e alcuni fix sui passi più delicati in placca. Fessure da proteggere.

Bolts, rock tunnels and trees Some slings and friends are recommended two little overhangs are rated with VI http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/elda.htm

S3/R1 https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-elda-arco/

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sassdaputia1/sassdaputia1.htm https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/VIE_FUTURE/ODLE/relazione_spigolo_nord_putia.html

In data 10/09/23 migliorate soste soste integrato protezioni

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian)

Overhang and then slabs. Take one middle friend

Classical route along northwest edge of the tower, partly challenging route-finding in central part. Descend across plateau towards Pisciadu hut, then easy path.

Nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.) Two bolts in the route. Fixed anchors. Splendid slabs with big rocky mushrooms.

Attenzione, via protetta con piastrine artigianali molto distanziate e poco integrabile.

Some pitons in the route, anchors fixed or to be strenghten. Classical itinerary, frequently repeated. Return by the foot through the southwestern ridge of Punta Torelli to Porcellizzo pass.

Descent: Abseil the route (ring at each anchor)

Via aperta nel 1937 da Gervasutti e Ronco

One of the most famous lines of the whole Alps. The longest line of the Dolomites. Often done in 2 days with a bivouac. The numbers of pitches is subjective (indicatively 35 pitches). First 950 m in the III and IV grade (up to pitch 18); Second part around IV+ up to 1450 m (up to pitch 29) and the final 200 m (30-35 pitches) of head wall of V and V+ with one pitch of VI-. Then 150-200 m of easy scrambling to Monte Agner peak (2872 m). Bivouac is possible at the end of pitch 18 (large comfortable grassy ledge) and at the end of pitch 29 (small ledge, 2 ppl). Few pitons along the line, many old ones along the hardest final part.

Pitches V+, VI, V+, V-, V, V+, III. Belay stations fixed by piton and bolt, one more piton in the route. The route leads through prominent crack system. Take set of nuts and cams up to nr 3 (B.D.). Return through the route.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

TRAD - Fessura da proteggere.

Via storica sulla Presolana Centrale. Le soste sono tutte su fix con catena e anello chiuso. Presenti sulla via chiodi e cordoni. Gli ultimi due tiri sono la cosiddetta variante Scandella.

Obligatorisch 6-A0

http://www.scuolaguidodellatorre.it/relazioni/Tognazza-viaRothko/754/

Accesso identico alla via del bucion invernale. Attacco a sx faccia a monte della via Avenida Miraflore.

L1: 25m V 1 fix ed 1 chiodo. Risalire lo spigolo fino a sostare in parete su sosta a fix da collegare.

L2: 25m V 2 fix. Continuare nel diedro a sx,affrontare un bombe' e la placca successiva fino a sosta su fix da collegare.

L3: 30m IV. Risalire lo spigolo fino a sosta su fix da collegare. Ora piccolo raccordo su cengia erbosa 20mt

L4: 20m IV. Alla base cordino in clessidra. Sosta utilizzare i fix dell via Anna.

L5: In comune con l'ultimo tiro della via Anna di Domenico Chindamo. VI

Discesa Dal pulpito discendere per cresta, passi di 2° fino a raccordarsi con il sentiero che porta all'attacco della via ferrata Minonzio. Da qui a ritroso si torna alla base.

Materiale: Serie di friend e cordini.

Soste con almeno uno spit con chiodo o clessidra.

For a topo see https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-roccia-preziosa.html

6-,5,5,6-,5,4+,5,4-

The route was modernized in 2009 and 2013. Many of the anchors have a drilled ring. Some belay stations on trees. Old sling material and some questionable pitons. Especially the anchor after pitch 16. The route is mostly difficult to protect with friends and does not always have solid rock. Pitons and slings can be helpful. Topo here: http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/index_htm_files/boomerang-relazione-2020.xcf.pdf

Chiodatura scarsa, soste da verificare

Friends necessary

Engelskante is rightly one of the most famous tours of the Sarner Scharte - if you look up from the meadows below the reason for name is clear. The three pitches follow the the arete in the middle are wonderfully exposed and wonderful to climb.

If you wish to enjoy the treats of the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle) on the southern summit, please bring more schnapps to leave. The route is wonderfully airy in partly demanding friction climbing.

Thanks to the bolts added by Ulrich Messner in the 1990s, it is now possible to climb directly up the arete, although Holzer and Steinkötter probably followed a thin crack a little to the right of the arete. Originally rated V, it is now agreed to be a solid grade VI.

1. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Start a little to the right above the lowest point of the ridge/arete. Follow the ridge and make an anchor at the second bolt.

2. [45 m, III, 1 bolt]: Continue up the ridge to a small ledge. Single bolt anchor.

3. [35 m, II, 1 bolt]: Go to the left of the small wall, and continue to across to the right to the large ledge, across the slippery grass to the base of the supa dupa arete. The anchor is a little to the right of the arete in a small cave (glue-in piton).

4. [45 m, V, VI, 6 bolts, 4 pitons]: Money pitch #1; exposed and morally demanding. Small nuts and cams useful. 3-bolt anchor on the famous bench on the wall.

5. [45 m, VI, IV +, 6 bolts, 3 pitons]: Money pitch #2; Continue up the arete, then airily traverse over the Angel's Wing (the overhang) to the left and continue up to the anchor. 3-bolt anchor is after the old piton anchor.

6. [25 m, IV-, 1 BH, 2 NH]: Continue up the arete to the glue-in piton.

7. [40 m, II]: Traverse over loose blocks to the right to a glue-in bolt at the base of the next wall.

8. [50 m, III, 1 bra]: Easy climbing along the sometimes brittle arete to the next ledge, with a 2 bolt anchor. Alternatively, you can bypass the entire wall to the left (II).

9. [30 m, III]: Continue up the ridge and follow the last short vertical section to the end of the route, 2 bolt anchor. Arrive at the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle).

VI/RS2/I

http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/dotore.htm

VI/R2/I

a True Alpine Classic. more details and topo can be found here - https://climbing-sicily.com/route-canto-del-gallo/

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/dolomiti/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=2470&id_tipologia=38

Belays are bolted, a few bolts in between, lots of slings. Small selection of friends and nuts is highly recommended. To reach the second part, go straight up to the footpath, then to the right towards the base of the upper crag.

Via che percorre lo spigolo sud-est del Campanile Basso. Aperta nel 1937 da Pino Fox e altri forti alpinisti dell'epoca con l'ausilio di 9 chiodi. Si percorrono i primi due tiri della via Normale per poi spostarsi a sinistra sullo spigolo.

Climbs the line between Via Anna and Via Armani.

Via di 6 tiri protetta con cordoni e qualche chiodo. Soste su cordoni in clessidra e alberi. Da integrare con una serie di friends. L'ultimo tiro di grado VI è evitabile. Il grado obbligatorio è V+

The second part of the route. A small selection of friends and nuts is recommended. (For a topo in German, see bergsteigen.com, for Italian see arrampicata-arco.com).

Nonexistant due to Rockfall: https://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/frana-sulla-torre-venezia-civetta-danneggiata-la-tissi-altre-classiche-dolomiti.html

http://www.rampegoni.it/file/vie/Nuvolao/via%20del%20pilastro.pdf

6 SL 235m + 70m zum Gipfel

Chiodi in via, soste con fix e catena con anello, portare qualche friend e cordini per clessidre.

Cima Catanaccio (Rosengartenspitze), 2918m, VI-

Si percorrono i primi tre tiri della Via normale e poi si devia sulla cengia vestro Est. Superati i tetti si sale verso dei gradoni che tornano verso ovest. Un chiodo visibile alla partenza. Descrizione dei tiri:

1. Traversare verso sinistra alzandosi fino a raggiungere un terrazzino in prossimità dello spigolo, sotto dei tetti gialli. Un chiodo, un nut incastrato. 30m, II

2. In verticale dalla sosta verso lo strapiombino, chiodi visibili. Traversare verso sinistra, delicato. Proseguire in alto fino alla sosta su spuntone. 15m, V+

3. Proseguire in verticale sopra la sosta tenendosi lungo lo spigolo fino alla sosta su terrazzino. 3 chiodi un po' nascosti. 35m, IV+

4. Dalla sosta ancora in verticale verso un diedro fino a una cengia dove si sosta in prossimità dello spigolo. 2 chiodi. 20m, IV

5. Salire lo strapiombino in direzione di una fessura, chiodo visibile. Continuare fino alla cima con arrampicata più facile. Sosta con due fix a terra. 25m, VI-