Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5b - 6a | ★ Storch
| 8m | Nago | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Selene
1
5+
32m
2
6-
40m
3
6
35m
4
5+
35m
5
5
25m
6
6-
20m
7
5+
32m
8
5+
28m
Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/selene-parete-san-paolo-arco/ Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Andrea Kluckner & Sigrid Königseder, 2007 | 250m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Quinto
| 10m | Nago | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Moon bears
1
5-
2
3
3
4
4
5
5
6
6
6
7
4
8
6-
9
5-
Shares the starting traverse left with A and OD but is the first route to take off vertically. Follows dihedrals with good belay stances. Fully bolted. FA: E. Salvaterra & M. Ghezzi, 2011 | 250m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★★ Strani sono... Senza pancia
FA: A. Rossi | 15m, 9 | San Vito lo Capo | ||
5b+ | ★★ Nebula | 16m | Finale Ligure | ||
5b+ | ★ La Collaboratrice
The route follows a crack, turns to the left up on to a slab and follows another crack. | 14m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Mani pulite | 12m, 6 | Finale Ligure | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Helena
1
5+
2
5+
3
5+
4
6
5
6
6
5
7
4+
8
6
FFA: H. Grill, F. Heiß, F. Kluckner, A. Kluckner, S. Königseder & U. Grothen, 2006 | 230m, 8 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Aganippe
1
5+
20m
2
6-
35m
3
5+
40m
4
5
28m
5
6-
30m
Set: H. Grill, F. Heiss & F. Kluckner, 2007 | 150m, 5 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Bruno
| 8m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Due Piccoli Pilastri
1
5
2
5+
3
4-
4
6-
5
6-
Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Martin Mocek, 2013 | 150m, 5 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+/c | ★★★ Dirty-flirty
1
4a
30m
2
5b
35m
3
5b+/c
30m
4
4a
40m
5
5a
35m
6
5a+
35m
7
5b
30m
Als Lockdowns, Ausgangsperren und Ähnliches jegliches edle Gestein in unerreichbare Ferne rückten, mussten wir Kinder aus dem Bozner Stadtkessel und dessen Umgebung uns mit porphyrlastigen Wochenendbeschäftigungen zufriedengeben geben. Um es trotzdem spannend zu machen entschieden wir, uns auf eine neue Erfahrung einzulassen. Mit einem Rucksack voller Bohrhacken und dem Fahrrad zwischen den Beinen fuhren wir also los. So entstand eine nette Route in den unteren Schwierigkeitsgraden, die trotz guter Absicherung etwas „Alpinfeeling“ verspricht. Perfekt für ein romantisches Kletterdate.
https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/dirty-flirty-glaning-bei-bozen/ FA: Fabian Aster, Friedl Brancalion, Silke Griesser, Ulrike Griesser & Paul Pruenster, Apr 2021 | 240m, 7, 12 | Jenesien | ||
5b+ | ★ Quò
| 10m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Elda
1
6
20m
2
6
30m
3
5
45m
4
5+
35m
5
5+
35m
Bolts, rock tunnels and trees Some slings and friends are recommended two little overhangs are rated with VI http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/elda.htm S3/R1 https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-elda-arco/ FA: Dario Cabas, Pierangelo Masera & Demis Arlnach, 2013 | 170m, 5, 25 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Tre Fratelli
| 18m, 7 | San Vito lo Capo | ||
5b+ | ★ La piccola
| 12m, 6 | San Vito lo Capo | ||
5b+ | ★ Zeitlous
| 15m | Tisner Auen | ||
5b+ | ★ Mara
| 16m | Tisner Auen | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Il Mercurio Serpeggiante
1
4
45m
2
4-
55m
3
4
35m
4
4+
45m
5
5-
52m
6
5+
20m
7
6
40m
8
5-
40m
9
4+
20m
10
5+
45m
11
5+
45m
| 440m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Gnegnetta
| 12m | Finale Ligure | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Micheluzzi
1
5-
2
5+
3
4
4
6
5
3
6
5+
7
5+
8
5+
9
6
10
5
11
5
12
5
13
4+
FA: Micheluzzi/Castiglioni, 1935 | 380m, 13 | Piz Ciavazes | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Nuova Via
1
6-
30m
2
4
48m
3
5+
30m
4
5+
15m
5
6-
35m
This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation. Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2014 | 160m, 5 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Nanette
| 13m | Finale Ligure | ||
6 | ★★ Via Boomerang
1
3
50m
2
5
45m
3
6
45m
4
4
50m
5
4
25m
6
5
30m
7
5+
40m
8
5+
40m
9
5-
20m
10
5+
45m
11
5+
40m
12
3
50m
13
3
50m
14
5-
45m
15
1
50m
16
4
55m
17
4+
40m
18
5+
27m
19
5
30m
20
5+
27m
21
4
50m
The route was modernized in 2009 and 2013. Many of the anchors have a drilled ring. Some belay stations on trees. Old sling material and some questionable pitons. Especially the anchor after pitch 16. The route is mostly difficult to protect with friends and does not always have solid rock. Pitons and slings can be helpful. Topo here: http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/index_htm_files/boomerang-relazione-2020.xcf.pdf Set: M. Furlani, V. Chini, M. Degasperi & R. Mazzalai, 1979 | 850m, 21 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Supereva
| 11m | Finale Ligure | ||
5b+ | ★ Un papavero per Ema
| 19m | Finale Ligure | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Linda
1
5
20m
2
5
30m
3
2
10m
4
6-
30m
Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/ FA: Franz und Martin Heiß, Heinz Grill, Jänner, Dario Cabas & Masera, Jan 2016 | 90m, 4 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Cactus/Kaktus
| 18m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
5b+ | ★★ Uomini
| 10m, 6 | Finale Ligure | ||
5b+ | ★★ LA CESOIA PERDUTA
Placca ben appigliata e pancette | 20m | Puglia | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Aphrodite
1
6
2
6
3
5
4
3
5
5+
6
6
7
6
8
6-
Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Florian Kluckner, 2006 | 180m, 8, 27 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Lovere | 17m, 10 | Val dell'Opol | ||
5b+ | ★★ Fleckvieh
| 25m | Tisner Auen | ||
5b+ | ★★ La Cava
| 20m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★★ New Surf | 22m, 10 | Palermo | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Esculapio
1
5+
20m
2
6
35m
3
6-
35m
4
6
30m
5
6-
30m
6
5
50m
7
5-
20m
8
1
15m
9
5+
25m
10
5
35m
Very nice multi pitch route with belay anchors and bolts where it is hard to set up protection with trad gear. Rocks and friends are necessary for the cracks. The view to Arco and the Lago di Garda is amazing. FA: Grill, Cabas, Heiß & Masera, 2007 | 300m, 10, 33 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6-/6 | ★★ Super Ciccio
Starts left of Via Caino e Abele and crosses this route after the first pitch. Relatively "green&brown" route but the rock parts are still nice to climb. The difficult parts are very well protected with bolts. FA: 2020 | 140m, 5, 10 | Regina del Lago | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Sabina Direkt
1
3+
2
4
3
6-
4
4
5
4
6
5+
This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton). A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs. To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint. | 170m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5+ | ★★ Rosamunda | 20m | Cinque Torri | ||
5b+ | ★★ Eternal Flame | 10m, 8 | Sasso Della Mantesca | ||
5b - c | ★★ Alessia | 18m, 8 | Rio degli Uccelli | ||
5b+ | ★★ Dea Madre
| 10m | Oristano Area | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Il Gran Diedro
1
6-
12m
2
6-
30m
3
6-
30m
4
5+
25m
5
5+
30m
6
4
15m
7
5-
30m
8
5
35m
9
4+
55m
FA: Omar Oprandi, Sabrina Oprandi, Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Franz Heiß, 2004 | 260m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | Bingo | 10m | Allitz | ||
5b+ | 3
| Valle del Sarca | |||
5b+ | ★★★ La Guerra Dei Poveri | 25m, 9 | Palermo | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★★ East Face, "Steger"
1
2
45m
2
4+
20m
3
5
30m
4
6-
18m
5
4
35m
6
5
50m
7
4+
35m
8
4+
30m
9
5
40m
10
4+
45m
11
4
45m
12
4
35m
13
5+
35m
14
4
45m
15
4
20m
16
5
30m
17
5+
30m
18
3
50m
19
2
45m
20
2
50m
Cima Catanaccio (Rosengartenspitze), 2918m, VI- FA: Hans Steger, Paula Wiesinger, Fred Masé-Dari & Sigi Lechner, 1929 | 730m, 20 | Gruppo del Catinaccio | ||
5b/b+ | ★ Piedi Pensanti | 10m, 7 | Rocchino Di Cavrenno | ||
6 | ★★ Via la piccola piramide
Obligatorisch 6-A0 Set: H. Grill & A. Klucker, 2007 | 380m, 12, 25 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Schubert
6-,5,5,6-,5,4+,5,4- FA: Pit Schubert & K.H. Matthies, 1967 | 250m, 8 | Piz Ciavazes | ||
5b+ | ★★ Camelot dorme | 20m | Lazio | ||
5b+ | ★★ Wasp
| 25m, 9 | San Vito lo Capo | ||
5b - 6a | ★★ Nasetto
| 22m | Rocca Pendice | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via delle Cariti
1
5-
35m
2
6-
25m
3
6
40m
4
6-
35m
5
5+/6-
30m
6
6-
15m
7
5+/6-
40m
Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Sandra Schieder & Andrea Farneti, Jan 2019 | 220m, 7 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Esmeralda
FA: M. Lugli | 14m, 5 | Varana | ||
6 | ★★ Via Archai
1
5
2
5+
3
6
4
6-
5
6
6
6
7
5
8
6-
9
6-
10
5+
11
6-
6 with 5 A0 passages. Some middle sized friends are highly recommended FA: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss & Sigrid Koenigseder, 2006 | 300m, 11, 12 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5a - 6b | ★★ Solitudine
Via sportiva a tratti alpinistica. 180 metri di sviluppo per 7 tiri. Difficoltà massima 5a o 6b con variante al secondo tiro. Via attrezzata a spit e soste attrezzate,possono essere utili integrazioni con friends, nuts o cordini. | 180m, 7 | Rocca Di Baiedo | ||
5b+ | ★★ Le due orfane di piedi | 16m | Zambana | ||
{UIAA} 4+ FR:5c | ★★★ Spigolo Barbiero
A very repeated classic route at Rocca pendice, fully bolted, follows a logical line of dihedrals and cracks in the southern corner of Rocca. The starting pillar on L4 is beautiful, above the difficulties of the route. 5 total pitches. From 'attacchi' sector, east wall, continue to the left. Immediately after the start of 'via Carugati', take the obvious and steep canal, go up it a few meters, cross it with a step of III and you reach the terrace where the route starts. https://www.falesia.it/multipitchroute/45/spigolo-barbiero.html FA: G. Scalco - L. Livotti, 1940 | 130m, 5, 12 | Rocca Pendice | ||
5b/b+ | ★ Lo Bryo
Lunghezza stimata | 25m | Castelvecchio | ||
5b+ | ★ Arriva la tatina | 11m | Finale Ligure | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★ αλαλαζο
1
4
20m
2
4
25m
3
4+
20m
4
6-
25m
FA: Cipriani | 90m, 4, 10 | Roda del Canal | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ La trincea
1
4+
35m
2
5
40m
3
5+
30m
4
5
25m
5
5
45m
6
6
30m
Via di 6 tiri protetta con cordoni e qualche chiodo. Soste su cordoni in clessidra e alberi. Da integrare con una serie di friends. L'ultimo tiro di grado VI è evitabile. Il grado obbligatorio è V+ FA: Florian Kluckner, Franco Sertori e Maurizio Piller Hoffer, Franco Sartori & Maurizio Piller Hoffer, 2017 | 210m, 6 | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via della Rampa
1
6
2
6
3
5+
4
5+
5
3
6
6
7
4
8
5+
9
5+
10
2
FA: H. Grill, F. Heiss & S. Konigseder, 2009 | 220m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | Trentino Climb | 11m | Laghi di Lamar | ||
5b+ | ★★ La canaletta | 35m | Lumignano | ||
5b+ | ★ Flying fist of Judah | Ogliastra | |||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Linda (linker Ausstieg)
1
6
27m
2
6
23m
| 50m, 2 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Adolfino esse.esse | 20m | Placca del Forte | ||
6 | ★ Le Scalette dell' Indria
1
4
32m
2
4
32m
3
6
20m
4
5+
35m
5
6
40m
6
3
20m
7
5+
40m
8
4+
40m
9
5+
20m
10
5+
20m
11
5+
50m
FA: H. Grill, F. Kluckner & M. Staufer, 2007 | 350m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Il Picco
FA: Bruno Belligoli | 10m | Jenesien | ||
5b+ | Ciclamino
| 5m | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★★ Ricci | 18m, 9 | Latsch | ||
5b+ | ★★ Madl
Own belay station, Toughes Madl turns right at the last bold. FA: S. Klimesch, Apr 2021 Set: Christoph Stahr, Apr 2021 | 15m, 6 | Siracusa | ||
5b - c | ★ Il Declino di un Climber | 12m | Coltura | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via del Gufetto
1
6-
20m
2
6-
20m
3
6-
30m
4
5-
40m
5
6-
35m
This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian) FA: Florian Kluckner, Walter Maino & Sandra Schieder, Feb 2018 | 150m, 5 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Ich fahre auf Brüste ab
| 13m | Finale Ligure | ||
5b+ | Moby Dick | 20m | Praderadego | ||
5b - c | ★ Darkman | 17m | Lazio | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Steger
Erforderliche Ausrüstung: NAA und ein ganzer Satz Stopper und Friends Nr. 2,5-3. FA: P. Wiesinger, F. Masé Dari und A. Paluselli, H. Steger, F. Masé Dari & A. Paluselli, 1929 | 120m | Gruppo del Catinaccio | ||
5b+ | ★ Causi ri catta | 14m | Ragusa | ||
5b+ | ★ Capitan | 27m, 12 | Val dell'Opol | ||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★★ Dülfer-Weg
1
4-
12m
2
4+
25m
3
6-
15m
Guglia Edmondo de Amicis is located near Lake Misurina. Bolted stands and crux move (VI- / 3rd pitch). Descent by abseiling. FA: H. Dülfer, W.F. von Bernuth, A. Zegler & E. Kasnapoff, 1913 | 52m, 3 | Gruppo del Cristallo | ||
6 | ★★ Il mercurio serpeggiante
1
4
45m
2
4-
56m
3
4
35m
4
4+
45m
5
5-
52m
6
5+
20m
7
6
42m
8
5-
40m
9
4+
20m
10
5+
45m
11
5+
45m
2 Zwischenstände möglich, dann reicht auch ein 50m Seil (statt einem 60m) FA: 2008 | 450m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | ||
5b+ | ★ Luky Luke
| 12m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
5b+ | ★★ Due fiaschette | 15m | Palinuro | ||
5b+ | ★★★ Porta romana | Sangiano | |||
5b+ | ★★ Il tenente colombo | 18m, 13 | Palinuro | ||
5b+ | ★★★ Kara Kiri | 22m | Hohe Festung | ||
5b+ | ★★ Tentazioni di Ferragosto | 28m | Covolo | ||
5b+ | Koffehin
Not every bolt might be drawn or correct! | 28m | St. Hippolyt | ||
5b+ | ★★ Spigolo di là
| 8m, 4 | Bergamo | ||
5b+ | Legomat | 9 | Bergamo | ||
5+ | ★★ Olga
1
5+
45m
2
5+
20m
3
3
35m
Set: E. Lacedelli, O., R. Zardini & O. Zardini, 1929 | 100m, 3 | Cinque Torri | ||
5b - c | ★★ Che tocio | 28m, 10 | Covolo | ||
6a UIAA:5- | ★★ La fessura | 22m, 8 | Castello di Gaino | ||
5b+ | ★★ Danzando verso il cielo
| 34m | Rocca Pendice | ||
5b+ | ★★ Gheppio
| 16m | Valle del Sarca | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★ Via Roccia preziosa
1
6-
25m
2
4+
20m
3
6
20m
4
6
20m
5
6
20m
For a topo see https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-roccia-preziosa.html FA: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Barbara Holzer, Mar 2018 | 110m, 10 | Valle del Sarca |