A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Kasameri Sawa / カサメリ沢
52 in Crag
- 1.1. Nōryō iwa / 納涼岩 2 in Area
- 1.2. Akibasho Rock / 秋場所ロック 5 in Area
- 1.3. Orange Iwa / オランジュ岩 5 in Area
- 1.4. E hoshi Iwa / 絵星岩 1 in Area
- 1.5. Motsurando / モツランド 16 in Area
- 1.6. Elephant Rock / エレファントロック 1 in Area
- 1.7. Anego Iwa / 姐御岩 1 in Area
- 1.8. Kose Rock / コセロック 10 in Area
- 1.9. Colosseo / コロッセオ 3 in Area
- 1.10. 三ツ星エリア Mitsuboshi Area 8 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Kasameri Sawa 52 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.907058, 138.582927
description
Mostly single pitch sport climbs with some trad lines.
access issues
Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.
approach
Park at the Fudosawa carpark - continue north from the main carpark to a marked right turn, then take a somewhat bumpy dirt road to the end. Or, 25 minutes on a flat hiking trail from the main carpark.
ethic
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
1.1. Nōryō iwa 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Summer evening Rock
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Torabanto / トラバント
Classic Slab route. The route is in a prime location with gallery style viewing and combines fantasic moves. This is the classic Japanese Slab route at the lower grade. | 5.9 | 6 | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Gonbei 2 / ゴンベイ2
Fantastic example of a hard Japanese style slab route. Prime viewing location for spectators. | 5.11a | 7 | |||
1.2. Akibasho Rock 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Tenshi no kaidan / 天使の階段
Translates as "Angels Stairs" | 5.11c | 40m | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Nanashi no Gonbee / 名無しの権兵衛
Translates as "Anonymous" (No Name) | 5.10a | 30m | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Walk On
Start up Nanshi no Gonbee to the small roof, go over the roof and into the thin finger crack above. continue past the tree at half height and continue to follow the obvious crack line. The crack widens as you go from fist to O.W. size. BD C4 #3- 5 is required to protect the top section. | 5.11d | 30m | |||||
| 4 |
Bunbu wa ryōdō / 文武は両道
This line is very gritty and covered with moss and scale, this line will need a fair bit of cleaning before it can be lead again. It looks like a good line and would be worth cleaning up, definitely looks like a one or two star climb. | 5.12a | 30m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Devil Dance / 悪魔の踊り
The final top section of the climb was linked and the FFA made by James Frith on 14th October 2013. The protection is good but the final crux section of the route is unprotected and run-out, which can be very daunting. A helmet is considered a good option. This is a must do line for all budding Mizugaki-Yama Crack Gurus. FFA: James Frith, 2013 | 5.12a | 20m | |||||
1.3. Orange Iwa 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
approach
approach this area the same way as akibasho Rock but continue another 50m upstream. The climbing is on the second ledge
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Haruna / はるな | 5.11c | 19m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Gokkun kozō / ごっくん小僧 | 5.12a | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Chichi Kuri Manbou / ちちくりマンボウ | 5.10c | ||||
| 4 | ★ Botoreian / ボトレイアン | 5.11a | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Asuka | 5.11c | 9 | |||
1.4. E hoshi Iwa 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Wild At Heart / ワイルド・アット・ハート | 5.10c | 60m, 2 | |||
1.5. Motsurando 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
    |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Kazu no Ko / かずのこ | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
| 2 | ★ Mentaiko / めんたいこ | 5.11b | ||||||
| 3 | ★★ Tara Ko / たらこ | 5.11d | ||||||
| 4 | ★ Nanashi no Gonbee / 名無しの権兵衛 | 5.8 | 15m | |||||
| 5 | ★★ Laser's Edge / レーザーズエッジ | 5.10d | 15m | |||||
| 6 | ★★ Olive / オリーブ | 5.11c | 24m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Nanshi no Roof Crack / 名無しのルーフクラック
Anonymous Roof Crack | 5.11a | 26m | |||||
| 8 | ★★ Platinum / プラチナム | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
| 9 | ★★ Popeye / ポパイ | 5.12a | ||||||
| 10 | Natural / ナチュラル | 5.10b | ||||||
| 11 | Kinoko / きのこ | 5.11d | ||||||
| 12 | ★ Tanuki / たぬき | 5.10a | ||||||
| 13 | ★ Jyagabata / ジャガバター | 5.10d | ||||||
| 14 | ★★ Milk Milk / ミルクミルク | 5.10c | ||||||
| 15 | Metronome / メトロノーム | 5.13b | ||||||
| 16 | ★ Kinta no Dai Bouken / 禁太の大冒険 | 5.11c | ||||||
1.6. Elephant Rock 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Walked past by most climbers but seldom climbed area.It is a nice juggy fun climb and should be more popular.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Rin-Chan Crack / リエちゃんクラック | 5.10c | ||||
1.7. Anego Iwa 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Kin no Waraji / 金のわらじ | 5.12a | 8 | |||
1.8. Kose Rock 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cooking Papa Kara no Okurimono / クッキングパパからの贈り物 | 5.11c | ||||
| 2 | ★ Isha no Musume / 医者の娘 | 5.12b | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Ryōshi no musume / 漁師の娘 | 5.11c | ||||
| 4 | Nameless | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Nameless (2) | 5.10b | ||||
| 6 | Nameless (3) | 5.11a | ||||
| 7 | Gonbei 1 / ゴンベイ1 | 5.11c | ||||
| 8 | Neko no Hig / ネコのヒゲ | 5.10b | ||||
| 9 | ★★ Total Recall / トータルリコール | 5.10b | 25m, 8 | |||
| 10 | ★★ ワニワニワニ / Waniwaniwani | 5.11b | 4 | |||
1.9. Colosseo 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.907092, 138.582971
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Ostica Antica / オスティカ・アンティカ | 5.11a | ||||
| 2 | ★★★ Jitte Mochi / 十手持ち | 5.11d | 10m, 5 | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Kami no te /神の手
God Hand | 5.13c | ||||
1.10. 三ツ星エリア Mitsuboshi Area 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
猿人岩、軍艦岩、木馬岩から構成されるカサメリ沢の奥に位置するエリア
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ 竜の巣 / Ryo no su | 5.11b | 5 | |||
| 2 | ★★ 猿の巣 / Saru no su | 5.11a | 5 | |||
| 3 | ★★★ ゆびきりげんまん / Yubikirigenman | 5.11b | 7 | |||
| 4 | キキンバック / Kikinback | 5.11b/c | 7 | |||
| 5 | ブラッド・ライン / Brad line | 5.12b/c | 9 | |||
| 6 | ロデオ / Rodeo | 5.7 | ||||
| 7 | トロイ / Troj | 5.11b | ||||
| 8 | サルサ / Salsa | 5.11d | ||||
