Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Bergmeister | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Berghain | ★★★ Classic | |||||
4 repeats in one session to nail it
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area The Ring | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Precious | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
fun and easy repeat
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Tiger Shark | |||||||
V2 | ★ The Shallows | ||||||
fun repeat. Best I've felt on it
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
4b | ★ Sleazy Greasy | 15m, 3 | |||||
Setup a top rope for the kids
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders The Blade of Damocles | |||||||
V4 | El Machete | ||||||
FA
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A nice tricky start on the slab but gets really good going further up past bolt 1. Really enjoyed it.
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5a | ★★ Heebie Jeebies | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Excellent flow in climbing. Really good 5a. No worries about poop on his route.
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4b | ★ Mambo Mamba | ||||||
Really good sequence
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4b | ★ Supu ya kuku | Average | |||||
For an easy and fun day, this is a nice warm up. But there is too much baboon poop on every hold! 😀
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Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Archway | |||||||
VS 5a | ★★ Boiler Plate | 25m, 1 | |||||
had to rescue Gabe on the route beside
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Slabburu | |||||||
V1 | Moran therapy | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★★ Thunderthighs | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★ Kupe Mweupe | ||||||
FA
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Esoterica | |||||||
V3 | Esoteric | ||||||
FA
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Golf Club - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ||||||
also added a sit-start to this that solidifies it as 3 stars. Can start with small compression underclings and move up to original start jug.
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Tortue | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Leonardo - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
best line on the boulder... heady up there!
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Egyptian Slab boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V2 | ★★ Sarcophagus | 8m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
so good
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Rocket Man | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Not the man they think I am - with Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lukenya top 10!
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning The Wailing Wall | |||||||
V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - with Schunk, Ian Thorpe | Average | |||||
ouch
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V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - with Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | ★ Good | |||||
fun 2-move board problem!
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Swiss Army Knife | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Big knife - with Joel M, kash ramli | ★★ Very Good | |||||
very cool stand through the undercling move
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Crashpad Slide Boulder | |||||||
V6 Easy | ★★★ Crashpad Slide - with Schunk | ★★★ Classic | |||||
nice to get this after projecting years ago
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Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Weakness Boulder | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ Line of Weakness | ||||||
In the running for Lukenya's hardest V4... I think 4 or 5 is fair
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★ Lot Lizard | ★ Good | |||||
definitely took me the longest of the 3 on this boulder
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V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Ian Thorpe said it was named after me so I guess I had to go send
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6b | ★★ Faithless | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
kinda forced between two routes, but the holds are there for some nice moves if you do force it
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Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Leopard Cave | |||||||
V1 ~V1 | ★★ Bone Hole - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First move seems to pull out of V0 range, but fun climb with some easy but exciting moves
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Night Crawler | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Spicy mantling over the top is definitely one of the hardest moves I've ever done
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Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Panic Mechanic - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
a perfect boulder problem
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror - with Melalite | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First pitch of Promenade/Pier and second pitch of Arthur's Horror
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lost Luggage | 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had a blast projecting this... stoked for the send!
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - with Schunk, Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First ascent
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V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★ Very Good | |||||
full extension crimpy lock offs, the best line of the 3 here
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Dinner plate Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Knife - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The movement isn't the greatest but it's such a beautiful boulder
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Sleepy hollow | |||||||
V3 | ★ Right hand squeeze - with Ian Thorpe | ★ Good | |||||
still reachy, but a lot more enjoyable on this side
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V2 | ★ Left hand squeeze - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Yeah... I'm the reason it says it's harder if you're short. Really tough session on this.
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Logger's Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
best on the boulder
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Clam | |||||||
V2 | ★ Clammy traverse - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
some scootin' and some more scootin'
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V4 | ★★★ In vino veritas - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
a nice gym dyno with a one hand catch... fun!
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Midday sun jungle | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Kung Pao Chicken - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
great climb right at the highball limit
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Gremlins | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Mogwai - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
fun moves
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Jacob's Ladder | |||||||
VD | Joseph - with Yan-Eric Douvier | 26m | |||||
VD? Who put letters in the V-Scale?
But seriously, had a great time at the trad day. Asante Yan-Eric Douvier for the coaching! |
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Sat 25th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Perched on a Royal Head - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
inside flag in the wild
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V3 | ★★ I'm warm, can I come down now? - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Feels more exposed than the direct line. Good highball!
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V1 | ★ Sit-start Warm-up - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Super cool start holds
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V2 | ★ Digging for Gold - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
The kind of problem that goes from "this is stupid" to "that was awesome" real quick
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Kumbatia watoto wako - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Amazing line! An instant favorite
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Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
repeat as warmup. Felt harder than the onsight for some reason!
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sent it this time. Didn’t even feel desperate! Felt pretty smooth
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Felt very smooth
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6c+ | ★★★ Twisted Sisters | 25m, 6 | |||||
Bolt to bolt to get the beta
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Crème Brûlée | ||||||
3 moves but they're great!
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V3 | ★ Marco | ||||||
I'm taking the 2 because I sent it before the start hold broke... but it is probably also a 3 now
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good warmup as not too cruxy.
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Went off route on the first go and got too pumped. Lowered, rested, and got it clean second go.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun. A bit runout in places so probably not an ideal one for a beginning leader.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Upper Cliffs | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Frogman | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Short but nice. Good for someone learning to jam.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
5b | ★ Bliss of Nemesis | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
good warmup
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6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
The start felt hard for the grade but the rest is steady.
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6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Somewhat tricky start for the grade but the rest felt bang-on 6a.
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumped out at the lip of the overhang.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
S ~HS | ★ Scarab | 23m | |||||
Not the hardest climbing but hard to protect the start.
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E3 5c ~E3 ~5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word | 20m, 1 | |||||
Great addition to the crag and Lukenya - lovely climbing.
Would say E3 5c as after scoping it out I found the gear to be pretty bomber and evenly spaced.
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Sugar rush | ★★★ Classic | |||||
One of the best of the grade for Lukenya... I think I only put it behind Chickenhead.
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard crux, where I fell. Sadly though the interest is not as sustained as at the other E2.
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S ~VS | ★★★ Papyrus | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely felt like solid VS, though admittedly it was my first trad lead in nine months.
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HVS 5a ~VS | ★ Death of Disco | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
Had to take at the bolt because the holds were covered in hyrax feces. Disgusting to clean without a brush. Otherwise felt very soft for the grade.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Cocktail Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ On the Rocks | ||||||
tree is pretty in the way now but still climbable
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Sit-start Pull Cross | ||||||
cool side pull/pinch hold
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V2 | ★ Slippery feet | ||||||
Appropriately named... cool first move
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Jenga | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Arete | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Not sure how it was originally done, but I'll suggest this:
Sit-start low on arete, go out wide for a couple cool compression bumps that take you back to the top corner of the arete, needing to control a barn door before the top out. Cool line! |
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Tickfest | |||||||
V1 Hard | ★ Tickle my fancy - with Tyson | ★ Good | |||||
technical! took a few repeats before V1 started to make sense
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a route. Engaging moves without the rope.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a E3 5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great climb. Some of the best moves on Egyptian and some of the best moves I've done at Lukenya.
Current grade (French 6c) seems fair for technical difficulty though believe E3 is a better description for seriousness. Protection is fairly decent on good rock and this combination with the moves feels more in line with other E3's in the country. Highly recommend this route. |
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Finger mash | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Fucking my fingers - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
loved these holds. Pro tip: don't fall in the bush
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
E2 6a | ★★ The Joker — 2 attempts - with Quinn Miller | 60m, 2 | Crap | ||||
There is a loose bolt at the top-totally put me off!
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders The Crown | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Jack | ||||||
partially campused
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V3 | ★★★ The Joker | ||||||
Fully campused
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice route with a tricky start
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream - with Ian Thorpe | 22m, 6 | |||||
A sweet solo. Went down in swift fashion after soloing 9 pitches at baboon cliff. From here, we put up some more boulders near baboon cliff and two new highballs on dinosaur egg. What a day!
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Part of the solo circuit on this day.
The circuit involved 5 routes with descent 4 times made on 'Nyani Gani' by solo downclimbing |
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4c | ★★ Nyani gani? | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Used this route to freesolo downclimb from the top of the cliff at the end of each lap of each route. Probably downclimbed it four or five times in a very short span of time. Hooray.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 | FA ★★ Dr. Danger - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A good mental warmup once the wait a bit bushes were cleared.
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V4 | FA ★★★ Panic Mechanic - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
One of the very best boulder problems I've ever climbed and among the most classic first ascents I've established. An iconic line up an iconic piece of rock.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | FA ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Gold Club | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Fun route and fun name
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Sun 22nd May 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
VS 4b VS 4b | ★★ Bandstand | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I led first pitch, Fiona led second.
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HVS 5a HVS 5a | ★★ Drowning in the Shallow End | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fiona led first pitch, I led second. First move is the hardest in my opinion, awkward step left and then up over a big bulge that for short folks like me was tricky!
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 V3 | ★★★ Ballz Hot | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Last boulder of the comp
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders The Roost | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Chickenhead | ★★ Very Good | |||||
comp circuit
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Night Crawler | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Its a damn good boulder. Very technical
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Sat 21st May 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck | ||||||
Part of comp circuit
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V5 V4 | ★ Lot Lizard | ||||||
first v5 at first Lukenya Boulder dash
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Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Eagle's Nest | |||||||
E1 5b E1 5b | ★★★ Pig's Ear | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Got dive bombed by a protective mama eagle on the lead - chick spotted in nest on the route with a mangled rock hyrax corpse
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Thu 31st Mar 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
7b | ★★★ E.T. | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Best pitch of climbing I've ever done. Quality
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Thu 17th Feb 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E2 5b E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2nd attemt. Screwed it up right at the end of the onsight attempt.
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 V3 | ★★★ Ballz Hot | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Stay calm, you'll find the holds...and you'll be okay
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Mon 13th Dec 2021 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
VS S | ★★★ Papyrus | 22m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route. Maybe closer to VS than S? As at December 2021 was bee-free, but check from the ground before setting off as there are often nests in the crack.
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Mon 29th Nov 2021 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumpy but fun. Careful on the rope drag from 2nd and 3rd draws. Would recommend extended or alpine draws and a good belayer.
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6b+ 6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Botched the onsight deciding on crux sequence, but a lovely route
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Mon 15th Nov 2021 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Turbulence - with Kang-Chun Cheng, Sam Mwangi | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
finally!!
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