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CB Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10

Seasonality

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Description

At the right end of 'Sailor's Buttress' is a short section of broken ground leading to another series of crags. At the far right the letters '50 CB' have been painted on a rock at the top of the cliff. At the left end of this buttress is a large recess with a crack at either end. The following route is 200 metres right of the last climb.

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Access issues inherited from Frog

Please check with the MCK before climbing there as access is sensitive. The land is partly used by the army and persmission is required before going from the commanding officer at the time. Some climbs are off limits during firing practice.

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Descent notes

There's abseil bolts at the top of Ragged Glory (please don't take the karabiner!). When viewed from above it's a prominent buttress that sticks outwards and is higher than most of the rocks around. To find the bolts, you need to go around the blocks on the top of the buttress to their left (facing down). Bolts are behind a small tree.

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Ethic inherited from Kenya

If you want to open new climbs in Kenya, kindly contact the Mountain Club of Kenya (www.mck.or.ke). We'll be happy to help!

Here is our bolting policy, please abide by it: http://mountainclubkenya.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Bolting-Policy.pdf

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

Routes

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Grade Route

A route with many positions - all hard. It climbs the prominent steep corner some 50' left of 'Freebie'. Start directly below corner and climb pleasantly to start of main groove. Climb this (crux), past 2 bolts to steep, wide crack. Follow this direct to top.

Historic route number: 40b

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1997

Strenuous. To the right of the recessed bay is a clean crack with a pigeon hole at 6'. Awkward moves lead off the ground to ledge beneath crack. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 41

FA: Pat Littlejohn & Iain Allan, 1992

Start at chimney about 20' right of 'Freebie'. Climb chimney using right wall to large ledge. Climb corner crack above until it prominently swings steeply up left. Up this crack to small ledge on left. Step across right above overhang and up to top.

Historic route number: 41a

FA: Iain Allan & Ian Howell, 1997

Start left of 'Unlawful Entry', below a crack at about 20'. Climb face past two bolts and a tricky finger lock to the base of a crack. Up the crack to its natural end. Step left and up to top.

Historic route number: 41b

FA: Alex Fiksman, 2009

A climb which is much better than it appears from a distance. To the right of 'Freebie' is an undistinguished crack. Right of this, and slightly lower, is another crack which begins about 12' off the ground. Climb to the crack and follow it to a steep wall with good block-shaped holds. Straight up following line of original crack to a niche, and up the crack to the top. Very well protected.

Historic route number: 42

FA: Iain Allan & Niall MacHugh, 1992

Climb the thin crack to the right of the previous route, and finish rightwards up the black slab above.

Historic route number: 43

FA: Iain Allan (solo), 1992

This route follows the left-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

  1. Climb the wide crack and flakey face on its left past small roof to ledge at 10m. Chockstone belay.

  2. Continue up the deep chimney past large chockstone and over precarious boulders to tree belay.

Could be climbed as one pitch, but you'll have a devil of a time.

Historic route number: 43a

FA: Alex Anderson & Nick Quintong, 3 Feb 2019

This route follows the right-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

Follow the left-hand branch of the obvious crack, over horn to ledge at 30'. Enter the chimney until bulge forces you out left...or right? Finish through guano-filled tunnel under final chockstone.

Historic route number: 43b

FA: Alex Anderson & Bernard Moulins, 3 Feb 2019

Towards the right end of the crag is a large fig tree. To the left of the tree is a lichen-covered buttress with a wide crack on its left. This climb takes the right edge of the buttress. Start below and just to the left of the wide crack. Climb the wall for 12' then traverse left to gain the arete (thread runner). Move delicately around the arete and up to a large ledge. Climb the slab above on its right edge to the top.

Historic route number: 44

FA: Niall MacHugh & Jeff Mariner, 1992

This climb takes the wide crack just to the left of the tree. At 15' move out onto the right wall, and move up to the right of a small tree into a shallow scoop. Exit up the awkward crack behind the tree.

Historic route number: 45

FA: Niall MacHugh & Jeff Mariner, 1992

Climb the same start as 'Mistral' and continue up the line of the wide crack to the top.

Historic route number: 46

FA: Jeff Mariner & Niall Ma(Hugh ll/l, 1992

At the extreme right end of 'CB Buttress', is an obvious crack with a tree root. Climb the crack up to a small tree, and continue until it fades. Step left and ascend on good holds straight to the top of the pinnacle.

Historic route number: 47

FA: Uif Carlsson & Rob Denny, 1992

To the right of the previous route is a tree root coming straight out of a crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 48

FA: Ian Howell & Kathleen Sebastian, 1992

Five metres left of 'A Lie of the Mind' there is a recess at the base of the buttress. Start at recess (bolts will be seen above). Climb bulging wall on right for 10' then move leftwards up break to bolt. Good moves straight up middle of cliff to top.

Historic route number: 48a

FA: Nicolas Ganzin & Jess Grunblatt, 1996

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