Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 2nd Apr 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Bergmeister | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Berghain | ★★★ Classic | |||||
4 repeats in one session to nail it
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Kilimwana hill / Bowling rock | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Arobaini - with Hamish | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First and second pitches definitely hardest, I’d say 6a+ at least. Very thin but you can trust the friction! Pretty clean now thanks to Sam Mwangi! Nice bolting job climbingfish and Emmanuel F! We had to rest on first two pitches (we aren’t sport climbers 😂) and then Hamish linked the last two much more easily.
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area The Ring | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Precious | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
fun and easy repeat
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Tiger Shark | |||||||
V2 | ★ The Shallows | ||||||
fun repeat. Best I've felt on it
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Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
4b | ★ Sleazy Greasy | 15m, 3 | |||||
Setup a top rope for the kids
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders The Blade of Damocles | |||||||
V4 | El Machete | ||||||
FA
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A nice tricky start on the slab but gets really good going further up past bolt 1. Really enjoyed it.
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5a | ★★ Heebie Jeebies | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Excellent flow in climbing. Really good 5a. No worries about poop on his route.
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4b | ★ Mambo Mamba | ||||||
Really good sequence
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4b | ★ Supu ya kuku | Average | |||||
For an easy and fun day, this is a nice warm up. But there is too much baboon poop on every hold! 😀
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Tower | |||||||
S | ★★ The Replacement | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good views during the Climb. Decent holds on the basalt rock.
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
S | ★★ Guillotine Groove | 16m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really good and fun line.
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Tower | |||||||
VS | ★★ West Rib Variation | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Such an amazing, easy, and fun climb! As a trad beginner, I really enjoyed it for my trad induction.
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Jan 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Archway | |||||||
VS 5a | ★★ Boiler Plate | 25m, 1 | |||||
had to rescue Gabe on the route beside
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Slabburu | |||||||
V1 | Moran therapy | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★★ Thunderthighs | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★ Kupe Mweupe | ||||||
FA
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Esoterica | |||||||
V3 | Esoteric | ||||||
FA
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Hakuna Matata - with Peter Naituli | 16m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Gear is good. Project crux with 3x purple.
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
VS | ★ Bouboulinas Street - with Forest | 13m | Average | ||||
First route of Forest's birthday project. We did 30 routes that day.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Golf Club - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ||||||
also added a sit-start to this that solidifies it as 3 stars. Can start with small compression underclings and move up to original start jug.
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Tortue | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Leonardo - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
best line on the boulder... heady up there!
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Egyptian Slab boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V2 | ★★ Sarcophagus | 8m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
so good
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Rocket Man | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Not the man they think I am - with Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Lukenya top 10!
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Thu 27th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning The Wailing Wall | |||||||
V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - with Schunk, Ian Thorpe | Average | |||||
ouch
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V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - with Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | ★ Good | |||||
fun 2-move board problem!
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Swiss Army Knife | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Big knife - with Joel M, kash ramli | ★★ Very Good | |||||
very cool stand through the undercling move
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Crashpad Slide Boulder | |||||||
V6 Easy | ★★★ Crashpad Slide - with Schunk | ★★★ Classic | |||||
nice to get this after projecting years ago
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Tue 27th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Weakness Boulder | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ Line of Weakness | ||||||
In the running for Lukenya's hardest V4... I think 4 or 5 is fair
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★ Lot Lizard | ★ Good | |||||
definitely took me the longest of the 3 on this boulder
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V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Ian Thorpe said it was named after me so I guess I had to go send
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Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6b | ★★ Faithless | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
kinda forced between two routes, but the holds are there for some nice moves if you do force it
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Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Leopard Cave | |||||||
V1 ~V1 | ★★ Bone Hole - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First move seems to pull out of V0 range, but fun climb with some easy but exciting moves
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Night Crawler | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Spicy mantling over the top is definitely one of the hardest moves I've ever done
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Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Panic Mechanic - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
a perfect boulder problem
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror - with Melalite | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First pitch of Promenade/Pier and second pitch of Arthur's Horror
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lost Luggage | 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Had a blast projecting this... stoked for the send!
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Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - with Schunk, Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First ascent
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V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - with Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★ Very Good | |||||
full extension crimpy lock offs, the best line of the 3 here
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Left end | |||||||
VS ~HVS | ★★ The Amazing Journey - with Alison Polton-Simon | 120m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun and exciting route on Main Wall featuring a tension traverse around a bulge using a cordalette (thanks Fish!) Route description says 'easiest way up Main Wall' but I just want to caution climbers who are new to Hells Gate, that it should not be taken lightly. First pitch is tricky, and the route is wandering - so route finding could be challenging if you don't do your research. Otherwise, fun and fairly well protected!
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Central wall | |||||||
VS | ★★ Stiletto - with Emilie | 120m | |||||
After 3rd belay station consider straight move.
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Dinner plate Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Knife - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
The movement isn't the greatest but it's such a beautiful boulder
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Sleepy hollow | |||||||
V3 | ★ Right hand squeeze - with Ian Thorpe | ★ Good | |||||
still reachy, but a lot more enjoyable on this side
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V2 | ★ Left hand squeeze - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Yeah... I'm the reason it says it's harder if you're short. Really tough session on this.
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Logger's Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
best on the boulder
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Clam | |||||||
V2 | ★ Clammy traverse - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
some scootin' and some more scootin'
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V4 | ★★★ In vino veritas - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
a nice gym dyno with a one hand catch... fun!
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Midday sun jungle | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Kung Pao Chicken - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
great climb right at the highball limit
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Wed 8th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Gremlins | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Mogwai - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
fun moves
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Tue 7th Mar 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 16m | |||||
Tape left hand pinky next time. Removed large loose block at crux. Still goes at same grade likely.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Jacob's Ladder | |||||||
VD | Joseph - with Yan-Eric Douvier | 26m | |||||
VD? Who put letters in the V-Scale?
But seriously, had a great time at the trad day. Asante Yan-Eric Douvier for the coaching! |
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Sat 25th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Perched on a Royal Head - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
inside flag in the wild
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V3 | ★★ I'm warm, can I come down now? - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Feels more exposed than the direct line. Good highball!
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V1 | ★ Sit-start Warm-up - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Super cool start holds
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V2 | ★ Digging for Gold - with Ian Thorpe | ||||||
The kind of problem that goes from "this is stupid" to "that was awesome" real quick
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Ndeiya | |||||||
Central Crag | |||||||
VD | ★★★ Morning Shade | 44m | Crap | ||||
Rock quality is highly dubious and route description is a bit unclear. I got off route and runout on p3 or p4, barely weighted a tiny crimp and it broke off in my hand and I fell 9m onto a tree and broke my femur. Rescue was quite an ordeal.
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Kumbatia watoto wako - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Amazing line! An instant favorite
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Sun 5th Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
repeat as warmup. Felt harder than the onsight for some reason!
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sent it this time. Didn’t even feel desperate! Felt pretty smooth
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Felt very smooth
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6c+ | ★★★ Twisted Sisters | 25m, 6 | |||||
Bolt to bolt to get the beta
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Crème Brûlée | ||||||
3 moves but they're great!
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V3 | ★ Marco | ||||||
I'm taking the 2 because I sent it before the start hold broke... but it is probably also a 3 now
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Good warmup as not too cruxy.
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Went off route on the first go and got too pumped. Lowered, rested, and got it clean second go.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror | 60m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very fun. A bit runout in places so probably not an ideal one for a beginning leader.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Upper Cliffs | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Frogman | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Short but nice. Good for someone learning to jam.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
5b | ★ Bliss of Nemesis | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
good warmup
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6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
The start felt hard for the grade but the rest is steady.
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6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Somewhat tricky start for the grade but the rest felt bang-on 6a.
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pumped out at the lip of the overhang.
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Sun 22nd Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
S ~HS | ★ Scarab | 23m | |||||
Not the hardest climbing but hard to protect the start.
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E3 5c ~E3 ~5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word | 20m, 1 | |||||
Great addition to the crag and Lukenya - lovely climbing.
Would say E3 5c as after scoping it out I found the gear to be pretty bomber and evenly spaced.
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Sat 21st Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Sugar rush | ★★★ Classic | |||||
One of the best of the grade for Lukenya... I think I only put it behind Chickenhead.
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Sun 15th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard crux, where I fell. Sadly though the interest is not as sustained as at the other E2.
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S ~VS | ★★★ Papyrus | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely felt like solid VS, though admittedly it was my first trad lead in nine months.
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HVS 5a ~VS | ★ Death of Disco | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
Had to take at the bolt because the holds were covered in hyrax feces. Disgusting to clean without a brush. Otherwise felt very soft for the grade.
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Cocktail Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ On the Rocks | ||||||
tree is pretty in the way now but still climbable
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Sit-start Pull Cross | ||||||
cool side pull/pinch hold
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V2 | ★ Slippery feet | ||||||
Appropriately named... cool first move
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Jenga | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Arete | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Not sure how it was originally done, but I'll suggest this:
Sit-start low on arete, go out wide for a couple cool compression bumps that take you back to the top corner of the arete, needing to control a barn door before the top out. Cool line! |
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Right end | |||||||
VS ~HVS | ★★ The Devil Drives - with Dylan | 80m | |||||
After the Two rusty Pegs run out maybe bolt in future.
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Tue 27th Dec 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Tickfest | |||||||
V1 Hard | ★ Tickle my fancy - with Tyson | ★ Good | |||||
technical! took a few repeats before V1 started to make sense
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Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What a route. Engaging moves without the rope.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a E3 5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - with Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great climb. Some of the best moves on Egyptian and some of the best moves I've done at Lukenya.
Current grade (French 6c) seems fair for technical difficulty though believe E3 is a better description for seriousness. Protection is fairly decent on good rock and this combination with the moves feels more in line with other E3's in the country. Highly recommend this route. |
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Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Finger mash | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Fucking my fingers - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
loved these holds. Pro tip: don't fall in the bush
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Right end | |||||||
16 VS | ★★ The Devil Drives | 80m | ★ Good | ||||
The first two pitches are fantastic.
The third pitch is stupid and requires a bolt below the peg runner halfway up. You move off a platform and up for 10m of blank, slippery climbing that is 100% blank in terms of protection. If you slip there you are going to deck on the platform below. It isn't hard climbing but its unnecessarily risky. Once you move past that peg runner then you are into the usual HG rubbish at the top which is fine. |
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Mon 26th Sep 2022 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Central wall | |||||||
E1 | ★★★ Olympian | 190m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Incredible climb.
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
E2 6a | ★★ The Joker — 2 attempts - with Quinn Miller | 60m, 2 | Crap | ||||
There is a loose bolt at the top-totally put me off!
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Sat 20th Aug 2022 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Kilimwana hill / Bowling rock | |||||||
6a |
★★ Arobaini
1
6a
35m
2
30m
3
20m
4
30m
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun day climbing this route. Consistent slab climbing. Third pitch is perhaps the most tricky one. Top anchor is on the very far right of the last bolt. Amazing view at the top.
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Fri 19th Aug 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders The Crown | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Jack | ||||||
partially campused
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V3 | ★★★ The Joker | ||||||
Fully campused
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice route with a tricky start
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream - with Ian Thorpe | 22m, 6 | |||||
A sweet solo. Went down in swift fashion after soloing 9 pitches at baboon cliff. From here, we put up some more boulders near baboon cliff and two new highballs on dinosaur egg. What a day!
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Part of the solo circuit on this day.
The circuit involved 5 routes with descent 4 times made on 'Nyani Gani' by solo downclimbing |
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4c | ★★ Nyani gani? | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Used this route to freesolo downclimb from the top of the cliff at the end of each lap of each route. Probably downclimbed it four or five times in a very short span of time. Hooray.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 | FA ★★ Dr. Danger - with Ian Thorpe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
A good mental warmup once the wait a bit bushes were cleared.
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V4 | FA ★★★ Panic Mechanic - with Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
One of the very best boulder problems I've ever climbed and among the most classic first ascents I've established. An iconic line up an iconic piece of rock.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | FA ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Gold Club | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Fun route and fun name
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Mon 30th May 2022 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Ikuyu Inene | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tupande Pamoja | 140m | ★ Good | ||||
Good fun route. Needs 9 quickdraws. LOTS of loose stuff. Would not recommend following another party, as you might die. Also be careful not to kill your 2nd. Summit block that people may have been belaying off is unstable - vibrates when jumped on - would not recommend belaying off it.
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