Johor Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Johor 31 routes in Region

1 2 3

1 Pulau Tioman 2 Pulau Mawar 3 Pulau Rawa

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 2.125200, 103.631174

1.1. Pulau Tioman 26 routes in Area

1 3 2

1 Kampung Nipah 2 Dragon Horns 3 Mumbar Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 2.797129, 104.174437

description

Tioman Island (Malay: Pulau Tioman) is a mukim and an island in Rompin District, Pahang, Malaysia. It is located 32 kilometres (20 miles) off the east coast of the state, and is some 21 kilometres (13 miles) long and 12 kilometres (7.5 miles) wide. It has seven villages, the largest and most populous being Kampung Tekek on the central western coast. The densely forested island is sparsely inhabited, and is surrounded by numerous coral reefs, making it a popular scuba diving, snorkelling, and surfing spot. There are many resorts and chalets for tourists around the island, which has duty-free status. Source Wikipedia

Pulau Tioman is a well known tourist destination, located off the east coast of Malaysia.

For a compiled information on Tioman, please visit the blog Headlamps, Clusterfucks And Other Vertical Adventuresof Stephane Coupleux and David Acott.

1.1.1. Kampung Nipah 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 2.733536, 104.138335

summary

Slab wall with a variety of routes

description

Part of the Tioman Island, Johor, Malaysia

approach

Ask a water taxi to take you to Kampung Nipah within Tioman Jetty, will cost you above RM25 depending on where you are coming from in Tioman. As far as I know the main Ferry from Mersing doesnt take you there directly.

1.1.2. Dragon Horns 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 2.726602, 104.166044

description

The 2 prominent peaks, Dragon Horns in Tioman Island Malaysia is one of the more known big walls in Southeast Asia. There are established routes going up to approximately 300 metres. Located at the southern tip of the scuba diving resort Island of Tioman. Dragon Horns have attracted many international climbers. French climbers Arnaud Petit and The North Face climber Cedar Wright had established routes on Dragon Horns.

Video.

approach

To get to the Dragon's Horns, either take the ferry from Mersing or Singapore (4 hours) to the Berjaya resort. From here hire a speedboat (1 hour, $50-75) or catch a fishing boat (slow but cheap) to the charming Kampung Mukut, located on the southern tip of the island. If you take catamaran from Mersing it took only 2-3 hours or speedboat 1 1/2 hours to Mukut.( fees from RM50-70 return) From here the Dragon's Horns tower above the village. Follow the shoreline to some huts on stilts, then take the established path up the hill. When this ends, cut left through dense brush until a ravine/riverbed is reached. Follow this up to the base of the wall, then skirt left up and along the base of the wall (steep jungle) until an obvious high point is reached. This is the start of Waking Dream.

To access the wall from the nearest village requires hours of jungle bashing. Climbers will need to carry heavy loads consisting of climbing gear, food and water. Trekking in a tropical jungle is an experience that will test both your mental and physical endurance. Cell phone service will be limited hence your only support is from the people living in Mukut the nearest village.

where to stay

Nearest town or city: Kampung Mukut

history

In August 2000 Scotty Nelson and Nick Tomlin spent 5 days establishing Waking Dream, which climbs the south face of Bukit Nekek Semekut, the most prominent of the Dragon's Horns or also known as the twin peak.In August 2002, the Malaysian team of Sharin,Roszaman,Abdullah Danial,Al-Haleq and Akmal made the second ascent of the peak. Other climbs may be possible as well; the east face looks to be substantially taller than the south face (maybe 600 meters). The east peak is exposed to the sun from morning till noon

1.1.3. Mumbar Cliff 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 2.730760, 104.152122

1.1.4. Kampung Juara (Champion Village) 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

summary

The rock is located along the beach and some rocks are in the tide circulation. The best time to climb is before 9 am and after 4.30 pm. Super hot.

description

A lot of rock is suitable for the beginner and children.

access issues

Need to rent a Hilux car cuz it is a super hardcore path to the village. Don't take a motorcycle, especially a scooter from the jetty to the village. You can use a motorcycle when you reach the village.

approach

Easy bouldering.

where to stay

Homestay.

ethic

Malay village culture.

1.2. Pulau Mawar 1 route in Area

2 3

2 Left of Arch 3 Right of Arch

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 2.616231, 103.786769

summary

Poor quality climbing sea cliff climbing area

description

Pulau Mawar climbing site was officially bolted by Petit Climbing Center (http://www.facebook.com/groups/349144232230). Launched on the 23rd Oct 2011. Although the bolting group say the rock is granite, it is not, it's a soft metamorphic rock type and very brittle, making climbing in the area very dangerous. Successive monsoons have rusted out most of the bolts and anchors, so using the existing bolting for lead climbing is inadvisable. The beach and rocks also appear to be affected by an oil spill and are coated in globs of sticky tar.

access issues

Access info can be found here https://m.facebook.com/notes/equatorial-adventures/rough-guide-to-rock-climbing-at-pulau-mawar-rose-island-mersing-malaysia/10150363023143922/ basically it's just north of Mersing and you can walk out to the island, follow right until a trailhead marked with tape and then up and over the spine of the island. Walk takes around 30min

1.2.1. Left of Arch 0 routes in Sector

description

Climbing area to the left of the arch

1.2.2. Right of Arch 0 routes in Sector

description

Climbing area to right of arch

1.3. Pulau Rawa 4 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 2.517169, 103.976955

description

Sea cliffs with Sandy beach. Very underdeveloped, Be extremely carfeful!!

approach

Take a boat from Mersing and stay at one of the two resorts on the island. The cliff is the next bay south of Alangs Resort. Walk around the outcrop of rocks, or over it at high tide.

descent notes

Walk over to the next bay, Walk around the outcrop of rocks, or over it at high tide.

history

Unknown