Malaysia Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 4.664295, 109.641710

description

One of the country from the South East Asia.

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 2.125200, 103.631174

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 2.797129, 104.174437

Tioman Island (Malay: Pulau Tioman) is a mukim and an island in Rompin District, Pahang, Malaysia. It is located 32 kilometres (20 miles) off the east coast of the state, and is some 21 kilometres (13 miles) long and 12 kilometres (7.5 miles) wide. It has seven villages, the largest and most populous being Kampung Tekek on the central western coast. The densely forested island is sparsely inhabited, and is surrounded by numerous coral reefs, making it a popular scuba diving, snorkelling, and surfing spot. There are many resorts and chalets for tourists around the island, which has duty-free status. Source Wikipedia

Pulau Tioman is a well known tourist destination, located off the east coast of Malaysia.

For a compiled information on Tioman, please visit the blog Headlamps, Clusterfucks And Other Vertical Adventuresof Stephane Coupleux and David Acott.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 2.616231, 103.786769

summary

Poor quality climbing sea cliff climbing area

description

Pulau Mawar climbing site was officially bolted by Petit Climbing Center (http://www.facebook.com/groups/349144232230). Launched on the 23rd Oct 2011. Although the bolting group say the rock is granite, it is not, it's a soft metamorphic rock type and very brittle, making climbing in the area very dangerous. Successive monsoons have rusted out most of the bolts and anchors, so using the existing bolting for lead climbing is inadvisable. The beach and rocks also appear to be affected by an oil spill and are coated in globs of sticky tar.

access issues

Access info can be found here https://m.facebook.com/notes/equatorial-adventures/rough-guide-to-rock-climbing-at-pulau-mawar-rose-island-mersing-malaysia/10150363023143922/ basically it's just north of Mersing and you can walk out to the island, follow right until a trailhead marked with tape and then up and over the spine of the island. Walk takes around 30min

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 2.517169, 103.976955

description

Sea cliffs with Sandy beach. Very underdeveloped, Be extremely carfeful!!

approach

Take a boat from Mersing and stay at one of the two resorts on the island. The cliff is the next bay south of Alangs Resort. Walk around the outcrop of rocks, or over it at high tide.

descent notes

Walk over to the next bay, Walk around the outcrop of rocks, or over it at high tide.

history

Unknown

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.946758, 100.335713

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.186717, 100.333307

summary

Located at Gunung Keriang recreational park, free access for public.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.680048, 100.914224

summary

Gua Jepun is located in Baling, Kedah. Crag can be located before the entrance to Lubuk Pedati crag.

access issues

No access issues. Crag is open for public.

ethic

Parking at the roadside is possible but make sure cars does not block the drive way that might disturb traffic.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.671723, 100.909221

summary

Lubuk Pedati is located in Baling, Kedah. Crag bolted is part of the long Gunung Baling mountain range.

access issues

Going to this crag by own transport is better as public transport in this area are scarce.

approach

Search for Gua Jepun, after reaching Gua Jepun go straight down the road and turn in the muddy road when you see a mechanic shop name Jin Seng Construction on the left, turn left and continue straight. You will locate a bridge on your left, in front you will see a divergent of 3 path, the left one leading on the bridge and the right one leading into houses. Take the small middle path and go straight until the end. On the path, you will see Lubuk Pedati river on your left along the way. The path has some plant growth at both side of the road that might scratch your car.

where to stay

Any homestay nearby Lubuk Pedati should be suffice.

ethic

Always keep the crag clean, it is allowed to park at the land owner's lawn but it is recommended to make small donation in the donation box as the owner maintain and upkeep the existing bridge and equipment himself.

Summary:

All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: 6.222421, 99.757072

summary

A Smaller Island off to the east of Pulau Singha Besar, Langkawi. Its a limestone island with tall rock formations from sea level. Perfect for Deep Water Free Solo Crags.

description

This island is entirely climbable, however, no bolts or routes have been set as of yet. But the best part of this island is its deep water free solo crags.

access issues

The Island can only be accessed via a Boat. Its highly recommended to charter a boat for island hopping at the Jeti Teluk Baru. Pricing costs somewhere between RM300 to RM400 depending on hours. Its also recommended to talk to any tour agencies at the cenang beach area to handle both boat charter and hotel pickup to get to/back from the island with ease.

approach

Use Grab or Rent a Bike to Jeti Teluk Baru. Then, Charter a boat from the Jeti Teluk Baru. Once on a boat, direct the captain to the island and the side of the island you want to tackle. Before climbing dive into the nearby waters with some goggles or a diving mask to inspect the rocks below water, if you are doing a deep water free solo. Adding on to that, Swim down for at least 5m to make sure the fall zone is deep enough (underwater visibility in Langkawi can be very poor). Ensure that the fall zone under the crag is actually deep and not obstructed by rocks that are protruding outwards. To start climbing get the boat to drop you off that the edge of the crag and start climbing. If a crag's fall zone is too shallow or isnt deep enough, abort the climb and try another time.

where to stay

Cenang Beach has the widest range of hotel varieties and prices that allows you to stay at your budget, it also has plenty of restaurants for dining.

ethic

Be polite to the boat captains and respect the islands uninhabited nature. There are several marine life that nestles itself around the island. Do not harm them.

history

There seems to be a daring few who tried to establish a deep water free solo zone here, however after the Covid pamdemic all activity from that group is no longer available.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.287746, 102.002672

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.837146, 101.963408

description

The Gua Musang crags are located at 'Etnobotani Park' a few kilometres to the South of Gua Musang town. There are 5 crag sections (A-E), with E having the hardest lines (up to 7b)

approach

There is no public transport from the town of Gua Musang although taxis can be found that will take you to 'Etnobotani Park'.

where to stay

There is a fairly large campsite just to the North of the crags (within walking distance) as well as hotels in the town of Gua Musang itself.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.353828, 102.025475

summary

Development on Gua Ikan started on November 2017 by climbers from Kuala Lumpur, Jerantut with the help from locals. Bolting for new routes was led by Abang Man and Aril with support from Persatuan Malim Gunung Kelantan (PMGK), Ministry of Tourism and Culture Malaysia – Kelantan Branches (MOTAC) and Dabong District Council.

description

Up to now, there are 23 routes have been opened including 1 natural protection route (with bolted anchor) ranged from 6a to a possible 7b (project). Any climber that come here are advised to contact the locals so that they are informed of the activity.

Shade in the morning but a few routes are in the shade all day long.

access issues

Entrance fee for Gua Ikan park and cave is RM5 for foreigners and RM2 for Malaysians.

approach

From R&R Jelawang, make your way to Dabong for about 8 km (10 minutes drive) until you see Gua Ikan sign (as shown in the picture above). Park your vehicle at the designated area and walk for about 100 m to the crag.

where to stay

Dabong village.

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 3.145330, 101.697939

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 2.322480, 102.304545

Summary:

Lat / Long: 2.451367, 102.293426

description

A bouldering field located in a rubber plantation - the now-established rubber trees provide some shade and can make the heat more bearable. Many more boulders to be explored in the area.

access issues

The plantation is a private property but no permission is needed so far. Just greet the people/worker you meet there and tell them you just want to climb the boulders.

approach

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HV8hX2nzSo3WJHAE7?g_st=iw

Park at this location alongside the road. Walk along the tracks into the plantation until you reach the 2nd T Junction. You will find the first area (The Castle) after the 2nd junction.

Walk another 50m and you will find another boulder (rubber scrubber) on the right. And another 50m to the (rubber crumble) on the right.

ethic

Preserving any access will be dependent on the behaviour of visitors. Do not cut the rubber trees and disturb the rubber scrub. Clean up all your trash when leaving. When exploring, be wary of loose flakes - even large flakes are sometimes only held on by a layer of dirt.

Summary:

Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 3.865888, 102.894950

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 3.931127, 102.411541

description

The Kampung Paya Gunung Pinnacle is a free standing monolith with two distinct peaks. With a multi-pitch climb that will take you straight to the top of the main higher peak.

approach

From Jerantut town, take Highway 64 out east all the way past the Termeloh turnoff (where there is a big mosque). Keep going for 4.1KMs past this turnoff and take a right turn into a small slip road next to a concrete bus stop/hut. Take the first right and drive straight along the kampung road for about 10 mins till you reach the end. You should be able to see the pinnacle by now. Make a right when the road splits at the base and park your car around the area. Watch out to not park it too close to the cliff in case of falling loose rocks.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 3.833998, 103.376491

description

Sharp Granite and slopers in most of the boulders. Need some experience to climb in this type of rocks.

approach

easy place to get by grab or car. look for SUTRAVILLA APARTMENT 1 car park and walk to the bouldering area 200mt away from car park

where to stay

Sutra Damai Sea view Guesthouse is just at 200m away from the beach

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 3.810392, 103.374648

summary

Teluk Cempedak (literally : Cempedak Bay) also known as Palm Beach is a beach in Kuantan, Pahang, Malaysia. It is located 5 kilometres east from the town centre in Kuantan. The white sandy beach and casuarinas and pine trees line the coast, with some rocky promontories facing the South China Sea.

description

All granite boulders scathered along the beach

access issues

Waze/Google Maps Teluk Cempedak then walk to the left side or right side of the beach.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.366700, 100.312877

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.268192, 100.424321

summary

Batu Kawan Jetty Parking Lot Wall

description

Located right in front of the Batu Kawan jetty parking lot. A boat ride at the jetty can lead you straight to Pulau Aman with very cheap ticket price.

ethic

Plenty of monkeys at the parking lot area, try not to feed them any food or provoke them. Most of the monkeys are not afraid of human so make sure you keep your stuffs close to yourself to avoid monkeys stealing them.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 5.422547, 100.294845

summary

Rock type is Granite.

description

The one & only bolted outdoor climbing area at Penang Island.Routes number ( Section 1 : Route 1-7 and Section 2 : Route 8- 14 ) starts from left to right side of the main wall. For routes ( Section 3 : Route 15 to 17 ), they are located opposite the main wall.

access issues

This place is located just behind a housing estate. So, keep the noise level low when approaching the site.No restriction of access so far.

approach

Best way is to have your own transport to the area.Park your vehicle along the housing estate road & walk in to the site after the water tank on left. Do not walk up the hill slope once you enter the jungle, a slight turn towards your right on flat land & towards left again. Walk straight & you should see the wall at your left.

ethic

We just need climbers to keep the area clean, respect the environment & practice safe climbing. A happy & rewarding climbing trip is what we want to achieve at the end of the day. CLIMB ON & HAVE FUN!! Note : Do let us know if any missing bolts or anchors as theft has happened at the area before. You may pm Penang Climbers Facebook page. Thanks!

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.430094, 100.291274

summary

Bouldering rocks

Summary:

All Bouldering

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.417698, 100.211860

summary

A previously undiscovered Outdoor Boulder Paradise in the tropical heart of Teluk Bahang, Penang with hundreds of boulders blanketing the landscape as far as the eye can see.

description

Located within the 40-hectare Durian in Love Estate (Waze or Google Maps), adjacent to Boulder Valley Glamping & Event Place 岩谷野营, the farm boasts with dozens of boulders scattered all over the hillside with spectacular views of the valley and the sea. Located on Jalan Teluk Bahang, just beside Boulder Valley Glamping.

Discovered by Lai NJ, Ben Shyen, Jacob Job and HangOut Climbing Gym.

access issues

PRIVATE PROPERTY, NO CLIMBING IN THE FARM WITHOUT PERMISSION.

Please seek permission from land owner or contact HangOut Climbing Gym in advance if you intend to climb there on your own. A small fee is required for access to the farm.

HangOut Climbing Gym provide guiding services to the farm with bouldering pads and Medical Staff. Contact them for more details.

approach

Drive to Jalan Teluk Bahang till you see the road to Boulder Valley Glamping. Keep left on the fork at the entrance to Boulder Valley Glamping.

ethic

Land owner is new to giving access to climbers. Please do not trespass or climb without permission. Clean up all trash when leaving.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.447851, 100.273526

summary

Zi Zai Hill is a hiking trail located at Tanjung Bungah with good potential to establish boulders.

description

Lots of boulders in various sizes along the trail to be discovered. The trail is shaded all the time and suitable to visit as long as there is daylight.

access issues

Easy to moderate difficulty of hike. Around 25 mins to reach the first established boulder field.

approach

Search Zi Zai Mountain First Entrance for navigation. The entrance is at the dead end of the road Lorong Lembah Permai 3 along The Granito condo. From there, start by facing the forest or away from buildings, you will see boulder field down on your right. A short walk till an intersection separated by a boulder, take the left junction and the hike begins. Shortly, you will pass by a bridge and there should only be one clear path up.

where to stay

Anywhere nearby or even in Georgetown.

ethic

Keep the area clean and respect the hikers.

history

A hiking trail established back in 2015 as referred from here. First known boulder established in 17 June 2023.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.476015, 100.297529

summary

Tikus Island (Rat Island) is an islet off the northern coast of Penang Island in the State of Penang, Malaysia. Located nearly 770 m (0.48 mi) off Tanjung Bungah, a suburb of the city of George Town, this uninhabited outcrop is now home to a solar-powered lighthouse.This active lighthouse marks the northern entrance to the Penang Strait and hence, the Port of Penang.

description

Full history of Rat Island written by Eugene Quah via: https://web.archive.org/web/20220513071324/https://penangmonthly.com/article/20625/a-quaint-history-of-the-mystical-islet-we-call-pulau-tikus

Rock type: Medium to coarse-grained biotite granite

Source information by Chung Siang from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26445514_Characterization_and_Geotechnical_Properties_of_Penang_Residual_Soils_with_Emphasis_on_Landslides#pf2

access issues

Tikus Island is only accessible by boat. Whilst kayaks are available at the Penang Water Sports Centre (attached to Hotel) at Tanjung Bungah, the rough sea current has hindered several approach attempts to the islet in the past. You can contact Hangout the local climbing to sort out arrangement to climb in Rat Island, they also rent crash pads out for bouldering.

2 ways boat trip via sport center cost around RM150 to get to Rat Island. If interested to visit without guide can directly contact boatman Boon via 016-4545796.

approach

Part of the boulder near the tide line has been blocked by made man hang bridge to link the existing pier. Also changing the sit start of Corvus to stand start.

ethic

Keep the beach clean of litter, take back thrash found on the beach if possible.

history

Source by Ning from: https://www.penang-traveltips.com/pulau-tikus.htm

Dr Siebert explained that when the Eurasians first arrived in Penang, their boat anchored off this little isle. It was low tide, and the appearance the mudflats around the isle made it look like a mouse. Hence the Eurasians decided to call it Pulau Tikus. From there, they trekked along the coast until they found a site which they want to establish their settlement. To commemorate their landing site, they decided to call that settlement Pulau Tikus.

Crag developed by Penang Climbing Development started since year 2019.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.453792, 100.184073

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Boulder scattered through the stretch of beach and also besides tar road.

Rock type: Medium to coarse-grained biotite granite

Source information by Chung Siang from: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26445514_Characterization_and_Geotechnical_Properties_of_Penang_Residual_Soils_with_Emphasis_on_Landslides#pf2

access issues

Public beaches accessible for everyone.

approach

Search for Pondok Polis Permatang Damar Laut, easy to find parking spot at this location and head towards the beach via sandy path. Once reached the Approach beach area walk towards left. Boulders scattered along approach beach all the way to the end section.

ethic

Keep the area clean as always.

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.389737, 100.291538

description

A quite well known hiking trail located nearby to Greenlane. Just type in "Bukit Hijau, Cangkat Tembaga Hiking Trail" waze would lead you straight to the entrance. Full map topo for Bukit Hijau will be develop in the near future. Boulder can be difficult to find as most are scattered around different area.

history

Hearsay, owner of Bukit Hijau had a plan to build a bungalow on the top but stopped by the local government due to safety concern. Local hikers had taken initiative to build their own resting area near the top.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.380476, 100.296999

summary

Originally call Yew Bee Estate Tua Pek Kong. Local climbers name it Temple of Rock (local did actually build the temple on a huge rock).

description

There is mentioned the hiking trail connected all the way to Bukit Hijau, the trail can be quite isolated at times with forest more dense compared to Bukit Hijau. Approach with caution and try not to visit alone.

access issues

There is no access issues so far, try not to climb the rock directly attached to the temple to avoid complaint and controversy from the local.

approach

Established boulder located right behind the temple. Planning to establish more in future.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.374753, 100.271974

summary

Known as Nan Sua hiking trail/Devil's Hill trail by local. Place is full of hikers on weekend morning and evening.

description

Locate Nan Shan Coffee Shop as landmark to locate the hiking trail. Stand in front of the coffee shop at facing straight you will see a junction that leads to housing area. The road in the housing area is Jalan Oriental 6, look left for a steep trail and that is the trail entrance.

access issues

Do not block any entrance to houses around. Park with common sense.

approach

Small car is recommended if wanted to go up by car, steep and narrow road ahead (only 1 car size lane). First established boulder (Devil's Boulder) just located right before Nam Sua's Tua Pek Kong. For safety, look out for bikes and cars passing by the road while climbing.

approach

There is ample FREE street and covered parking.

HangOut is strategically located walking distance from USM | 9 minutes drive from the first Penang bridge | 15 minutes from Penang International Airport and FIZ | 20 minutes from Gurney Plaza

summary

There are two branches, Tanjung Bunga and Batu Kawan. At Batu Kawan branch covered boulder, top rope (included automatic top-roping), and lead climbing. This gym suit for 2 till 99 years old.

description

Please visit projectrock.com.my

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.749973, 101.054000

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.930181, 100.817434

summary

This lime stone crack was established in 2016 by the local climbing community.

approach

Drive from Batu Kurau into the south direction. After around 6km you will reach a small bridge with a food stall on the right hand side.

Cars can be parked on the street side opposite the Road side wall.

history

The local climbing community established this crag in 2016 with gear support from Camp5, Verticale, Bolder Ventures, Riverfront Chalet, Akmal Noor, Chaer, Pak Ngah, Pak Non, Najib Tahir, Persatuan Mendaki Malaysia, Persatuan Mendaki Taiping and the Malaysian Bolting Fund

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.621933, 101.087489

summary

Big rock in the heart of Ipoh

description

Gunung Lang is well known as a Recreational Park in the heart of Ipoh. On the east side of the limestone rock, the local climbing community has established several climbing routes. Beware of the large puddles at the base of most of the climbs.

access issues

The Climbing area is private property, but freely accessible.

approach

On Google Maps there is a location called Cliffside Gunung Lang Recreational Park. Hop a short rail to access the crag.

It is possible to park on the street or in the carpark of the Recreational Park.

where to stay

Ipoh has plenty of locations for lodging from cheap hostels to hotels, no worries there.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.623491, 101.156763

summary

Climbing Rock inside the water park Lost World of Tambun.

description

The Crag is located on the private property of the Lost World of Tambun theme park. To access the crag, you need to purchase a ticket to the park (There is a discount fee for climbers).

The bolts are rusty and the routes are not maintained by the park.

Local climbers avoid climbing here due to the entrance fee.

access issues

Private Property

history

The Crag was established as a project from the Mammut team together with Camp5 in 2007.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.608712, 101.082512

summary

Re-open climbing park managed by Persatuan Mendaki Perak and Ipoh Climbers Community

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 4.239143, 100.542583

summary

Located off the western coast of Peninsular Malaysia, Pangkor Island boasts picturesque beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a rugged coastline dotted with fascinating rock formations.

description

The island's coastal cliffs, weathered by the relentless waves of the South China Sea, have created an array of natural boulders of varying sizes, shapes, and textures.  It's important to be mindful of the tides and weather conditions when bouldering along the coastline. Checking the tide schedule and being aware of any potential changes in weather can help ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.

approach

Most climbs may require you to have some mode of water transport, such as a boat or kayak, and then swim towards the boulder. Be mindful of waves and check the tide conditions before heading out.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.499404, 100.235632

summary

Perlis is the northern most state of Malaysia and shares a border with Thailand. The climbing and limestone cliffs towering over the land are similar to those in Krabi, but with bigger caves and fresher routes (unlike the super polished routes all around Tonsai). There is climbing in mountainous national park in the west of Perlis - the rest of Perlis is flat with gorgeous limestone monoliths scattered through the land. The climbing ranges from easy to crazy hard.

description

If you want to be off the beaten path and find incredible climbing on limestone cliffs, come to Perlis. The climbing is secluded and routes are fresh.

To avoid the extreme heat, bugs and wet season, the best time to climb here is between January and April. Though you can climb all year round, just bring bug spray and avoid climbing on midday.

The people here are very friendly, the food is great and everyone is welcoming to climbers. Food and accommodation here is cheap very cheap.

There is endless opportunity here for climbing. The “Perlis Climbers” have plans to bolt another 1000 routes in the state and turn the area into a haven for rock climbers.

You should contact the “Perlis Climbers” for any information. A lot of information of this area is not online. The “Perlis Climbers” will be a huge help for you.

www.facebook.com/perlisclimbers perlisclimb@gmail.com +60129466569 (This is Amirul’s number, contact him on WhatsApp)

approach

If you don’t have a partner, one of the “Perlis Climbers” will definitely go climb with you. They are incredible people and have incredible plans for the area. Some of the crags are difficult to find and require going through long caves on the approach, the “Perlis Climbers” will make your life so much easier to find the crag and they can show you the best places.

where to stay

Free camping is allowed at all of the crags other than Gua Kalem, where you can get a campsite for a dollar a night. There are cheap homestay available too.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 6.413681, 100.192391

summary

Bukit Lagi is a long the hill that run north-south at the west end of Kangar. Like all the climbing in Perlis it is a limestone monolith. Though most of the climbing access in Perlis is easy, Bukit Lagi is even easier to find.

description

There are 2 main climbing areas here - Gua Cendarwasih (Playground) and Gua Ular Sawa (The Python Cave). These two areas have the easiest access you could ask for as it is located in a public park, one is basically in a playground. The 2 crags is only 5-10 minute walking distance between them. Gua Ular Sawa has tougher grades route while Gua Cendarwassh has a few 5’s. Most of the rock climbing lessons are carried out at Gua Cendarwasih.

There is also another wall called Jurassic Park that is more difficult to locate There are only 3 routes bolted there (6B, 5C, 5B), this is a good afternoon/evening section - get in touch with the Perlis Climbers if you want to check it out.

where to stay

Take a cab via Grab into Kangar town that is only 3-5 minutes away, plenty of hotel to choose.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.520074, 100.262935

description

The crag consists of two adjacent freestanding outcrops of which only the northern hill has been developed, and this only partly on its West and North face. Bolting and logs courtesy effort of CAMP5, Kuala Lumpur.

approach

By Car From KL via North-South-Highway; exit at Changlun to Kangar. From Kangar on Road 7 direction Padang Besar. After about 7km turn right at Beseri at a large T-Junction with Traffic Light; direction Mata Ayer. Shortly after crossing the Railway you reach another T-Junction (about 2km from first junction; just after a bridge; there is a large cement factory at the right hand side); here you head left direction Padang Besar. The crag appears at the right hand side after about 300m, standing in a padi field opposite a Mosque. A small dirt road directly leads to the foot of the rock, however, it is recommended to park the car further away or at the main road and walk the remaining 100m by feet.

By Train The trainstation Tasik Melati is just a stone throw away from the crag. If you arrive from Thailand, exit at Padang Besar and hire a taxi to Tasik Melati/Bukit Keteri. However the local train will stop at Tasik Melati itself.

history

Bukit Keteri was pin-pointed and developed during the Mammut/Camp5 bolting expedition. The Crown Prince of Perlis and his Wife were the first to climb at this crag and hopefully with this gesture initiated a sustainable development of climbing in this part of Malaysia.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

The crag consists of 2 areas with only a few routes bolted.

description

First section is Bar 2 and the second one is Gua Venon. Both areas are shaded all day. There are plans to bolt many more routes in the area (as the west wall of the large hill here has a never ending like face.

approach

Required to park far out and go by foot into the crag. The crag is not easy to spot as it is located in a pinnacle of rock covered by vegetation and surrounded by paddy field. It is better to ask "Perlis Climbers" to show you around the place to avoid any confusion.

www.facebook.com/perlisclimbers perlisclimb@gmail.com +60129466569 (This is Amirul’s number, contact him on WhatsApp)

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.548135, 100.268497

summary

This place is better known by local as an attraction for its river called Sungai Jernih.

description

There is a massive face here with serious potential for some great multi pitch lines. This face is not bolted but there have been some trad ascents on it. Contact the Perlis Climbers if you’re interested in an amazing project.

The other area with the bolted lines is a covered section. Climb here all day, rain or shine.

Local restaurant is just a stone throw away at the base camp of Sungai Jernih, cheap and decent.

access issues

Drive to Sungai Bukit Jernih (6.5433359, 100.2683873), here google says the road ends... but it doesn’t, keep following the road and turn left about 200m past the soccer field to get to Peha Ayam section.

history

The massive big wall face of Bukit Jernih is said to be aid ascent by local bat faeces collector with only ropes and harness made up by ropes. The local collectors also put up a massive 10 meters long wooden ladder on the access point to a small cave to collect bat faeces. By looking at the shear size of the ladder from far away can be quite impressive about how the locals put up such a heavy ladder without modern climbing equipment back in the days.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.644765, 100.202109

summary

Gua Kelam (Kelam Cave) located about 33 km north of Kangar, the capital of Perlis state, near to a small town called Kaki Bukit (Foot Hill). It shares the border with Nakawan Range of Thailand.

description

The climbing area is divided into 6 sections with plenty of routes to choose from. The section includes section A and B, C, D, E, F.

access issues

It is a public park so it might get quite busy during weekends and holidays. There is a park entrance fee of RM5 for foreigners and RM2 for Malaysians (2023). Please keep the place clean.

approach

You will pass through a small village name Kaki Bukit before reaching Gua Kelam. There is a small parking lot right outside Gua Kelam, if the parking lot is full it is ok to park at the roadside, just make sure your vehicle does not block the traffic.

Walk toward the park entrance. Approach for sectors will be discuss in section pages.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.512750, 100.238216

Summary:

Sport climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 5.364836, 116.579917

Summary:

Sport climbing, Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 6.074709, 116.563391

summary

Mt. Kinabalu is a mountain on the island of Borneo in Asia.

High altitude climbing on outstanding granite.

description

Mount Kinabalu is a mountain in Sabah, Malaysia. Kinabalu is the highest peak in Borneo's Crocker Range and is the highest mountain in the Malay Archipelago as well as the highest mountain in Malaysia.[1] Mount Kinabalu's summit (known as Low's Peak) is at 4,095 metres (13,435 ft) above sea level.

access issues

All climbs are located on the exceptional granite within the Mount Kinabalu National Park (as well as UNESCO World Heritage Site) in the north of the island.

approach

From Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of the Sabah region, your operator will drive you two hours to Kinabalu park HQ where you will register your presence on the mountain with the authorities. Once all the paperwork is finished you will be provided with a name tag and a mountain guide, and start your journey up to the huts where you will spend your first night.

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 4.641245, 116.613440

summary

A remote pinnacle for rock climber and caver explorer

description

Batu Punggul are three face pinnacle wall, facing north where you'll catch the sun all day (30min approaching) , south west face facing the chilling river (5min approaching) and south face with the green jungle canopy below (15min approaching).

approach

Three and a half hour travel by road from Kota Kinabalu town.

where to stay

there's a culture long house and a rest house to stay at the jetty area (Kampung Tataluan) or just hammocking around the camp site at the crag.

history

Hunger local rock climber from Kota Kinabalu try to escape from the crowded meditation climbing gym around 2017. promises by the three face pinnacle, sponsor from nature lover..the journey begin...

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 2.522635, 112.751577

description

Malaysia-Borneo (Updating)

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 1.383727, 110.118218

summary

The main climbing location in Sarawak.

description

Except west-facing Zoo Wall all sections are facing south and enjoy all-day shade all day from May to September. From October to April the sun shines on these walls however, trees provide some shade. From December to April the rock also get wet as it is Heavy Rain Season. An exception is Batman Wall and Stage Wall, which can be climbed year-round and even in pretty averse weather conditions. This is due to a large roof, which provides shade until 1pm even in December and also keeps off the rain.

access issues

Staircase Wall is free, just walk under the pedestrian walkway to the wall.

Fairy Cave Wall and Nepenthes Wall are within the Fairy Cave Nature Reserve under Sarawak Forestry Corporation with an entrance fee of RM1 for citizens and RM5 for foreigners.

Tiger Wall, Orchid Wall, Stage Wall and Batman Wall are under the Kampong Krokong “Koperasi Fairy Cave Heritage Kuching Bhd” recently and the price is RM50 for a party of 2, RM100 for a group up to 10 and RM200 for an even larger group of climbers. Call Joseph at +60138085516 to arrange opening the gate.

The Zoo Wall is located at the Red Turn Mini Zoo, which is currently closed for renovation (Sept. 2014). You can call the manager Anna at +60-11-140 77138 to arrange climbing there.

approach

Fairy Cave (Gua Pari Pari) is a major tourist attraction. It is best to go by car. The Red Turn Mini Zoo is also a known attraction.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 1.721485, 110.446350

summary

Seaside climbing on sandstone. Climbing is only allowed if permission given by Sarawak Forestry Corporation.

description

Bako is a beautiful National Park with spectacular sandstone formations at some of the beaches. Climbing here is a unique experience very different from the lime stone areas in Sarawak. For a climbing trip you need to consider the tides, sun exposure and don't forget insect repellent for the sand flies.

access issues

The park is operated by Sarawak Forestry Corporation, which presently does not allow rock climbing due to lack of mountain rescue service. Contact Alexander Hölke for a case-by-case agreement with the park management if you plan a climbing trip there. For the multi-pitch route make sure you know what you are doing – you must be able to get back down to the beach by yourself. Bouldering is generally tolerated.

approach

The park is a major tourist attraction so you can either drive to Kampung Bako or take a tour bus. At the main jetty you need to register your party and sign an indemnity form for rock climbers, pay the park fee and buy a boat ticket. Early and late boats (going out before 8am and returning after 4pm) can be arranged (011-25132711).

where to stay

Several options for from a camp site to air conditioned rooms is available at the park https://ebooking.sarawak.gov.my/eBooking/. Day trips from Kuching are also possible.

ethic

Sports Climbing with an adventurous note. All climbs are equipped with long shaft (200mm) titanium glue-in bolts. The sandstone is soft and somewhat brittle. Abseil and lower-off points have Ti rings tied with slings to the bolts - it is advised to bring spare slings along for renewal.

history

Many climbers have looked at these cliffs and wondered if rock climbing was possible. Bouldering was reported as early as the 1999 by the Batman Wall development group and local climbers since then. Route development started in 2013 by Alexander Hölke in agreement with the park management.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 1.168302, 110.469047

summary

Great and dry wall with overhanging to vertical climbs and some beautiful features. There is potential for harder climbs 7c..8a - there are at least 3 more lines beween Wing Chung and Bolting Project.

description

Gunong Buros is small but steep limestone mountain visible from the road. It is placed close to Kampong Bantang and Kampong Jenan.

access issues

The mountain is located on the land of Kampong Jenan. Call the Kampong Chief (Babeh Meh Jen +60 82 89 5292) and let him know you want to climb there. He speaks Malay and Bidayuh – but not English.

Be careful not to step on the crops. The land belongs to Maynet Lingong +60 13 805 8536. (The houses by the road belong to different people)

approach

From Kuching drive south towards Serian. After about 45km turn right following the signs to Kampung Taee, there are some shops at this intersection. Follow the road for 8km just past Kampung Bantang. There are two obvious rock face visible from the road. Buros is the smaller mountain to the left. Take the trail between the houses with small bamboo bridges aross several creeks.

The face is visible from the road and it is facing north-east. Specifically this means that during the dry season (June) only after 3pm there is shade, while in the wet season (December) it is in the shade from 11am. Best time to climb is Oct-Nov after 12pm, when the heavy rains haven’t come yet and at the same time the sun is not hitting the wall for most of the day any more.

where to stay

Most people stay in Kuching and go for a day trip.

ethic

Sports climbing. Stainless steel bolts only, preferably glue-ins.

history

Discovered in 2011. Development was sponsored by Alexander Hölke with a lot of help from Noh Muhammad. Unfortunately the wall sees almost no traffic.

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 3.871108, 115.385903

summary

Impressive rock spire in the Kelabit Highlands requiring an expedition to get there.

description

Bukit Batu Lawi is an impressive rock spire located remotely in the Kelabit Highlands. It has two distinct peaks separate by a saddle: The smaller one called Female Peak or Wife can be ascended by non-technical (class 4) climbing. The inspiring Male Peak or Husband however, can be only ascended by technical rock climbing. Of the the two summits the smaller one is called Female Peak, which can be reached by non-technical scrambling. The larger and most prominent feature of the mountain is the Male Peak. In addition there are major walls on the eastern and western slopes along the ridge, which may hold additional potential for great multi-pitch sports routes.

Batu Lawi in Kelabit Highlands of Sarawak is made up of 2 peaks. The taller “male” peak is 2046 metres and the lower “female” peak is 1850 metres. The mountain is sacred to the Kelabit people living in the region. According to the legends of the Kelabit people. The mountain’s peaks are a husband and wife, a pair of protector gods. The 2 mountains are regarded as the parents of all highland peoples in the region. Thus it is advisable to get a local guide. And inform the relevant authority of your intention to climb Batu Lawi.

access issues

Batu Lawi is an extension of Pulong Tau National Park since 2008.

approach

The trip to Batu Lawi is an expedition by itself. Two shelters were built in 1991 which then cut the return trip from Bario to 4 days. As of 2016 the easiest access is by 4x4 using the logging roads.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 4.183770, 101.913488

summary

Combination Granite, Marble and Limestone - sometimes all in the same climb.

where to stay

Stay in town and use e-hailing apps (Grab) or taxies to get out to the crags. Generally cheap, RM30 maximum from post areas of town.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 3.242066, 101.687447

description

http://www.climb.my/routes/selangor-kl/batu-caves/

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 3.303028, 101.633974

summary

Phenominal rock outcrop, stretching 300m tall. Massive potential for new routes: sport and trad. Hands down, some of the best multi-pitch climbing in Malaysia.

description

Bukit Takun is an enormous limestone outcrop on the outskirts on Kuala Lumpur. One of the best and most comprehensive resources on climbing routes Bukit Takun can be found here: http://www.climb.my/routes/selangor-kl/bukit-takun/

The limestone sits on a bed on granite making lower routes incredibly varied, as you are forced to transition from technical slab faces to featured limestone. The long multi-pitch routes also deserve a mention, several up to 230m in height.

The area has a long history of climbing, with many trad and sports routes put up over the last 30 years. Bolting activity is ongoing: recently there has been a slew of new routes with Patrick Andrey leading the charge, capitalising on the areas huge potential.

The surrounding area is dense jungle forest and this makes the crag feel quiet and remote. However, be prepared for tropical jungle conditions, take plenty of water and be warned the mosquitoes are ravenous.

access issues

The Bukit Takun outcrop access is through a private housing estate. Although residents tolerate access to the crag for climbers, please do not jeopardise this by leaving the area before sunset.

Sign-in with the guard, at the guardhouse & inform if you intend to be leaving late. If you intend to take on multi-pitch routes ensure you are fully prepared, keep an eye on the time, and stick to turn back times.

Leaving in the dark may cause undue panic to the locals, which can make crag access harder in the future.

[updated 2022] Access window for climbers is set as 8:00am ~ 6:00pm

approach

The ascent starts from the housing estate guardhouse. Once you have signed in, proceed up the private road until in turns into a jungle trail. You will pass through a vegetable patch. For sectors Galactic Cliff, Granite Base, Big Hole and Camp Ground head right on the jungle trail, for a steep hike on soft ground.

For the sectors Lower slopes and below, take the jungle trail to the left at the big banyan tree.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3zBTn5vFCo

ethic

Please leave the area by sunset as not to jeopardise continued access. (Torches are recommended in case of emergency, but please make every effort to leave by sunset).

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 6.239738, 99.848366

description

Pulau Tuba stands for Tuba Island. A relatively small island located nearby Langkawi island that is reachable by by a boat ride from Langkawi jetty.

access issues

The land at the climbing area is privately owned, for access permission please contact Rozaiman @ BlankFace Adventures 014 817 5946. Trespassers will be prosecuted.

approach

From Kuah Ferry Station (Langkawi jetty) head east to another separate port and buy a boat ticket at Boat Tambang Pulau Tuba that cost only RM 5. Operation time of the boat started from 9am to 7pm at odd hours only. After reaching Pulau Tuba jetty, head west to Kampung Tepi Laut, Gua Batu.

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 5.060933, 103.037938

Summary:

Lat / Long: 5.769509, 103.034132

description

Beautiful island with sandy beaches and quite a lot of highball boulders

Table of contents

1. Malaysia 1,429 routes in Region

1.1. Johor 31 routes in Region

1.1.1. Pulau Tioman 26 routes in Area

1.1.2. Pulau Mawar 1 route in Area

1.1.3. Pulau Rawa 4 routes in Cliff

1.2. Kedah 80 routes in Region

1.2.1. Gunung Keriang 37 routes in Area

1.2.2. Gua Jepun 6 routes in Crag

1.2.3. Lubuk Pedati 35 routes in Crag

1.2.4. Pulau Jong 2 routes in Area

1.3. Kelantan 69 routes in Region

1.3.1. Gua Musang 46 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Gua Ikan 23 routes in Crag

1.4. Kuala Lumpur 1 route in Region

1.4.1. Gua Kelam 0 routes in Crag

1.4.2. Gua Cheroh 0 routes in Crag

1.4.3. Gunung Keriang 1 route in Crag

1.5. Melaka 38 routes in Region

1.5.1. Hutan Percha 38 routes in Field

1.6. Pahang 77 routes in Region

1.6.1. Jerantut 25 routes in Area

1.6.2. Pantai Pelindung 21 routes in Area

1.6.3. Teluk Cempedak 31 routes in Area

1.7. Penang 281 routes in Region

1.7.1. Balik Pulau 19 routes in Area

1.7.2. Batu Kawan 2 routes in Area

1.7.3. Jesselton Park Penang 21 routes in Crag

1.7.4. Youth Park 8 routes in Area

1.7.5. Batu Feringghi 8 routes in Area

1.7.6. Durian Valley 68 routes in Area

1.7.7. Zi Zai Hill 19 routes in Area

1.7.8. Rat Island 28 routes in Area

1.7.9. Teluk Bahang 28 routes in Area

1.7.10. Permatang Damar Laut 16 routes in Crag

1.7.11. Bukit Hijau (Green Hill) 58 routes in Area

1.7.12. Temple of Rock 3 routes in Area

1.7.13. Devil's Hill 3 routes in Area

1.7.14. HangOut Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

1.7.15. Project Rock 0 routes in Gym

1.8. Perak 111 routes in Region

1.8.1. Batu Kurau 26 routes in Crag

1.8.2. Gunung Lang 28 routes in Crag

1.8.3. Lost World of Tambun 44 routes in Crag

1.8.4. Gunung Cheroh / Churoh 7 routes in Crag

1.8.5. Pangkor Island 1 route in Area