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Routes in Fairy Cave

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Showing all 89 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
7a Meet Your Mother

Extension of Meet Your Maker. Continue up the same extension of Kapur Chimney until the anchor.

Sport 33m, 18 Fairy Cave
Bolting Project

Last line at the right far end of Batman Wall. 2 anchor bolts were set in September 2016 by Alexander Hölke, top rope can be set up from "Bye-Bye Kuching". Batman start off a solid sling also left in 2016.

SportProject 20m Fairy Cave
7a+/b Pulik Likau

Hard boulder start into beautiful face climbing before a technical lay-back sequence to gain the anchor.

Bottom overhanging part is sharp rock and often wet. Top half is good quality, a wide crack/off-width.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Malcolm

FA: Noh Muhammad, Jan 2019

Sport 33m, 12 Fairy Cave
8b+ A Smile

Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" Start

Sport Fairy Cave
6c The Incredible Roof

Climber and belayer need to scramble up some boulders to a good ledge and clip the first bolt. Climb up the wall to a ledge to a spectacular finish - the roof.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2011

Sport 29m, 10 Fairy Cave
1999
6b+ Kapur Chimney

The Classic at Batman wall, make sure you get on this when you're here. The start is tricky and crimpy - get through that and what follows is fantastic climbing.

FA: John Norman, 1999

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2008

Sport 25m, 12 Fairy Cave
6b No Name

FA: 1999

Sport 7m, 3 Fairy Cave
7c+ Show Pony

Shares Starting bolt with "Broken Wings" and "A Smile". Uses the leftmost boltline. Finish is between the start of "Rodeo Jitam" and "Holy Thundering Meteorite - Batman!".

Gymnastic Roof Climbing leads to the crux towards the end.

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 7m, 6 Fairy Cave
6a+ Nama Bodo

FA: Daron, 1999

Sport 7m, 3 Fairy Cave
8a If I could just reach my Utility belt

Batman Start is about 5 metres to the right of the large tufa of "Two egg bacon burger" Route

FA: Simon Wilson, 1999

Sport 8m, 5 Fairy Cave
5a Baby Climb

This is the only true beginner's climb at batman wall area. Climb up the pocketed wall past 2 bolts to the anchor. The crux is between the last bolt to the anchor.

FA: 1999

Sport 5m, 2 Fairy Cave
6a 999

One of the easiest route at batman wall and often used as a top rope for beginners trying to get a feel for a hanging start. Cool moves and as usual the start is always tricky and will throw some people off. Not that easy to onsight but once u know all the moves it's a 30sec climb.

FA: Jimen, 1999

Sport 15m, 8 Fairy Cave
7c Full Simtoi

Variation of "Simtoi" with a roof start. Shares the 1st bolt with "Pangang Cicak". It is recommended to switch Ropes due to rope drag.

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 25m, 12 Fairy Cave
7c+ Panggang Cicak (Toasted Gecko)

Variation of "Cicak" with a roof start. It is recommended to switch Ropes Once on the main wall due to rope drag

FA: Simon Wilson, 1999

Sport 25m, 12 Fairy Cave
7b+ Cicak

Powerful start and sustained climbing to the ledge. The climbing continues up the face (crux) keeping left of Simtoi. Cicak is Gecko in Malay.

FA: Simon Wilson, 1999

Sport 20m, 7 Fairy Cave
8c A Smile and A Tear

Another Wild traverse. Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" start. After the roof, Follow Cicak, 1st to 3rd clip, then traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny B. Goode" to end at "Jansson’s Temptation"

If Climbed Separately, Garth Reckons the roof called 'A Smile"is grade 8b+ and the wall called "A Tear" is grade 8a

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 25m, 15 Fairy Cave
7b Simtoi

Batman start and climb through the technical and pumpy overhang (crux right at the start) to the ledge. Further up through a few shared moves with "Bas Laici" but then keep to the left. The route is named after a local dog which was omnipresent during the 1999 bolting activities.

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 20m, 8 Fairy Cave
8c Broken Wings

The name apparently came from doing the First Ascent when Garth broke the wings of a bat in one of the deep pockets. A pure roof climb that starts same as "A Smile" but veers left at the 5th bolt

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 8m, 6 Fairy Cave
7a Bas Laici

The classic 7a at Batman Wall. Climb through the juggy overhang to a rest point at the ledge. Move further up then stay right. Shares Batman starting bolts with "Johnny B. Goode" and a few moves with "Simtoi" after the ledge. Named after the not-so-white bus, which was taking the Australien team to the wall.

FA: Simon Wilson, 1999

Sport 15m, 5 Fairy Cave
7a Elephant Ears

Variations and Traverse.

Start on "Bas Laici" then "Simtoi" and across "Cicak" to "Kapur Chimney". There are a few Original moves between "Cicak" and "Kapur Chimney" protected by a bolt.

FA: Monique Forestier, 1999

Sport 22m Fairy Cave
7c Johnny B. Goode

Shares the starting bolts with as "Bas Laici" but goes to the right then up through the overhanging wall. Named after the famous song by Chuck Berry, and the only western one the local band new and played again and again.

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport 20m, 9 Fairy Cave
8a A Tear

Follow "Cicak", 1st to 3rd Clip, then Traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny be Good" to end at "Jansson's Temptation".

FA: Garth Miller, 1999

Sport Fairy Cave
5c Angin Angin

FA: Jimen, 1999

Sport 7m, 3 Fairy Cave
2000
7a+ Jansson’s Temptation

Long moves on overhanging rock with a good rest at about the center of the climb. This route was left as a project by the Australian Team in 1999. Chi'en Lee was working on it when Swedish climber Jansson made a visit and unknowingly snatched the route from him.

FA: Christer Jansson, 2000

Sport 20m, 7 Fairy Cave
2002
6a+ Ang Moh China

FA: Ch’ien Lee, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Fairy Cave
6c Snake Charmer

FA: Ch’ien Lee, 2002

Sport 10m, 3 Fairy Cave
5c Sofanochet

FA: Glen MacNair, 2002

Maint: Alexander Hölke & Asang, 2009

Sport 10m, 4 Fairy Cave
2003
6c Holy Thundering Meteorite - Batman!

Thuggy start leads to a little bit techy mid section followed by a easier finish. Use the leftmost starting bolt.

FA: Ch’ien Lee & Glen McNair, 2003

Sport 15m, 8 Fairy Cave
2005
6c Fists Of Fairy
1 6a+
2 6b
3 6c

This route starts just at the top of fairy cave after you walk up the stair just before you enter the big cave in front of you. You will need a clip stick to clip the first bolt and batman start and once you are at the starting bolt you will need to get your belayer/partner up as well to hang there while belaying you.

There didn't use to be a entry fee but now there is a hut set just outside the parking area by the state government and the entry fee is RM1 for Malaysians and RM5 for Tourist.

FA: Ch’ien Lee & Glen MacNair, 2005

Sport 45m, 3 Fairy Cave
2007
7b+ Grime Alley

Another project left by the original Australien bolters. Unfortunately the crux hold is always grimy and hence, aspirants need to be prepared to do some cleaning.

FA: Ch’ien Lee, 2007

Sport 15m, 5 Fairy Cave
2008
6b+ Kapur Chimney

The Classic at Batman wall, make sure you get on this when you're here. The start is tricky and crimpy - get through that and what follows is fantastic climbing.

FA: John Norman, 1999

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2008

Sport 25m, 12 Fairy Cave
6b+ Two Egg Bacon Burger

This is the only ground-up start at Batman up the obvious tufa pillar. Climb up to good pockets and awkward moves. You may find the anchor hard to clip when on-sighting.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Asang Nikander, 2008

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2009

Sport 12m, 6 Fairy Cave
2009
6b+ Two Egg Bacon Burger

This is the only ground-up start at Batman up the obvious tufa pillar. Climb up to good pockets and awkward moves. You may find the anchor hard to clip when on-sighting.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Asang Nikander, 2008

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2009

Sport 12m, 6 Fairy Cave
6c+ Laba Laba

Pumpy lower section and less steep but technical upper section. Laba Laba means Spider in Malay. The route has two enxensions in 2012, a left variant called "Titu-Titu" and a right one called "Rama-Rama".

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2009

Sport 17m, 9 Fairy Cave
7a+ Fledermaus

The start is to the right of Laba Laba. Sustained with interesting moves. Off starting bolt climb through overhanging rock to the 3rd bolt for a sitting rest on a lump. Climb further up with more tricky and balancy moves to the chain anchor.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2009

Sport 20m, 9 Fairy Cave
5c Sofanochet

FA: Glen MacNair, 2002

Maint: Alexander Hölke & Asang, 2009

Sport 10m, 4 Fairy Cave
5c Crack Slacker

FA: Mel Jitam, 2009

Sport 10m, 4 Fairy Cave
2010
7a Robin

This route has a sign board. Climb the overhanging rock using pockets and tufas with long and powerful moves.

FA: Asang Nikander, 2010

Sport 20m, 8 Fairy Cave
5b Chxqo

Starts at a chimney then continues slightly left and back right to the anchor. Named after Noh's girlfriend, whose birthday he missed with all the bolting and cleaning..

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2010

Sport 22m, 9 Fairy Cave
5b Amy The Last

5m right of Chxqo on sharp grey rock. Named after Doni's youngest daughter at the time.

FA: Doni Dahari, 2010

Sport 18m, 8 Fairy Cave
6c Sidewinder

Extension of Amy The Last. Climb through a sequence of interesting side pulls.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2010

Sport 28m, 16 Fairy Cave
2011
6b Pickpocket

Climb up tho the ledge then the overhanging wall at the left hand side of the alcove.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad, 2011

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2011

Sport 15m, 7 Fairy Cave
7b Buzz Lightyear

One of the longer routes on the wall. Batman start just to the right of "Robin". Sustained.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2011

Sport 30m, 11 Fairy Cave
6c The Incredible Roof

Climber and belayer need to scramble up some boulders to a good ledge and clip the first bolt. Climb up the wall to a ledge to a spectacular finish - the roof.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2011

Sport 29m, 10 Fairy Cave
6b Rodeo Jitam

Starts to the left of "Holy Thundering Meteorite, Batman!" - and just left of the finishing bolts of the roof climb "Show Pony". Climb up some pockets to the obvious ledge with the large blackish rock bridge (this is the horse) then slightly right up the fist crack to another ledge. Climb the roof and continue to the anchor.

FA: Mel Jitam, 2011

Sport 15m, 7 Fairy Cave
5b Take It Easy

FA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011

Sport 12m, 5 Fairy Cave
5b Middleton

FA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011

Sport 12m, 5 Fairy Cave
5b Crux Deluxe

FA: Malcolm Jitam, 2011

Sport 10m, 4 Fairy Cave
6b Pickpocket

Climb up tho the ledge then the overhanging wall at the left hand side of the alcove.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Noh Muhammad, 2011

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2011

Sport 15m, 7 Fairy Cave
6b Happy Feet

Climb up to the ledge and stem up inside the corner. Move right to avoid the roof and climb up the face passed a huge jug to the anchor.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2011

Sport 15m, 7 Fairy Cave
6b+ Bomba Chimney

Batman start is just to the right of Happy Feet. The lower chimney used to be covered with a black grime but has been cleaned in 2011 and again in 2020. Climb up the short wall then further an offwidth/chimney crack on large holds. A layback move to the right gets you to another chimney section and a balancy finish to the anchor chain.

FA: Ateng Safardi, 2011

Sport 15m, 8 Fairy Cave
7a+ Noh Came Late

Batman start to the right of Buzz Lightyear. Sustained climbing throught the overhanging wall.

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2011

Sport 20m, 7 Fairy Cave
2012
6b Toprope Problem

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2012

Top rope 5m Fairy Cave
6c Popeye’s Vacation

FA: Andy Popeye Su, 2012

Sport 28m, 12 Fairy Cave
5c At Last!

Obvious face climb straight up the grey and later white rock to the chain anchor. Dry for most of the year.

FA: Eunice Lin, 2012

Sport 20m, 7 Fairy Cave
6c Take Five

Starts to the right of "At last!". Climb up the grey rock on sharp holds, through tufas then the white dihedral to the chain anchor. Use long slings as the route zig-zags at the lower part. Good only during dry season.

Set: Andy Popeye Su & Alexander Hölke, 2012

FA: Ateng Safardi, 2012

Sport 25m, 13 Fairy Cave
6b+ The Joker

Starting bolt is to the left of the tufa of Two Egg Bacon Burger. Climb up and slightly left to the overhanging section to a rest point inside a chimney. Then finish up with a few moves through a steep wall to the chain anchor.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2012

Sport 15m, 7 Fairy Cave
6b Outer Space

Start at the short bouldery overhanging section to the left of the obvious tufa on small brittle holds (best to clip-stick the first bolt). Climb up and left on holds and tufas. Finish up into the large overhanging tufas through the big hole/chimney. Good only during the dry season.

FA: Andy Popeye Su, 2012

Sport 25m, 13 Fairy Cave
6a Thanks Andy

Start to the right of the tufa (same start as "Space Invaders") then climb left and straight up the dihedral and tufa structures to the chain anchor.

FA: Malcolm Jitam, 2012

Sport 20m, 10 Fairy Cave
6c Take Five

Starts to the right of "At last!". Climb up the grey rock on sharp holds, through tufas then the white dihedral to the chain anchor. Use long slings as the route zig-zags at the lower part. Good only during dry season.

Set: Andy Popeye Su & Alexander Hölke, 2012

FA: Ateng Safardi, 2012

Sport 25m, 13 Fairy Cave
6b+ Inner Space

Variation to Outer Space. From the bolt leading into the chimney (second last bolt) move right through the tufas.

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2012

Sport 26m, 14 Fairy Cave
6b+ Boulder

FA: Mel Jitam, 2012

Sport 20m, 8 Fairy Cave
6c Happy Ending

FA: Ateng Safardi, 2012

Sport 23m, 12 Fairy Cave
6c Welcome to the Jungle

FA: Simon Wilson, 2012

Sport 19m, 7 Fairy Cave
6b Space Invaders

Shares the start and 1st bolt with "Thanks Andy" then goes straight up the face and into the tufas.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2012

Sport 10m, 5 Fairy Cave
6c+ Meet Your Maker

Extension to Meteorite. Avoid the anchor but continue upwards to a rest point inside a small cave. Climb up further passed some tricky moves (crux) to the anchor of Kapur Chimney.

FA: DS, 2012

Sport 28m, 13 Fairy Cave
6a+ Fat Fingers

FA: Ryan Weller, 2012

Sport 5m, 2 Fairy Cave
6a Boleh Bah Kalau Kau

Shares the starting bolt and 2nd bold with "The Joker" then climb left and up.

FA: Beverly Tam, 2012

Sport 15m, 5 Fairy Cave
6b+ Oh My English

FA: Ryan Weller, 2012

Sport 5m Fairy Cave
6b Tubi Or Man Tubi

FA: Derek Cheng, 2012

Sport 25m, 13 Fairy Cave
6b Balls Of Brass

FA: Ryan Weller, 2012

Sport 15m, 5 Fairy Cave
6c+ Snake Skin

The route batman-starts fairly low then traverses right and up. The anchor is just below the large and sometimes wet tufa.

FA: Noh Muhammad, 2012

Sport 12m, 6 Fairy Cave
6a+ Both Sides of 50

FA: Eunice Lin, 2012

Sport 18m, 8 Fairy Cave
2013
7b+ Shark Attack

Sustained, pumpy and technical. Has an interestingly-shaped hold looking like a shark fin about halfway up.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2013

Sport 20m, 8 Fairy Cave
6a+ Sense Of Victory

Start the same as as "Both Sides Of 50" then branches off to the left.

FA: Eunice Lin, 2013

Sport 22m, 11 Fairy Cave
7a Titu-Titu

Extension to Laba Laba, Climb all the way right towards the Big Staglatite. Use Long Draws for less Rope drag.

FA: Yi Chuan, 2013

Sport 31m, 16 Fairy Cave
6b+ End Of The Universe
1 6a+
2 6b+

A 2 pitch extension of "Rodeo Jitam".

FA: Andy Popeye & Yi Chuan, 2013

Sport 2 Fairy Cave
7b+ Kuching Hero

FA: Andy Popeye Su, 2013

Sport Fairy Cave
7c 14 Year Lottery

Ground up start at the Tufa of "Two Egg Bacon Burger" and then move right, Shares the last two bolts with "If I could Just Reach My Utility Belt

FA: Brian Tan, 2013

Sport 8m Fairy Cave
7a+ Rumble in the Jungle

FA: Simon Wilson, 2013

Sport 21m, 8 Fairy Cave
6c No Pants All Gain

FA: Hans Breuer, 2013

Sport 2, 20 Fairy Cave
2014
6b ?

FA: Malcolm Jitam, 2014

Sport 2 Fairy Cave
6c+ Rama-Rama

Right extension of Laba Laba. The final moves is for chimney-lovers.

FA: Andy Popeye Su, 2014

Sport 40m, 17 Fairy Cave
7b+ Papa Swing

The routed follows the line just to the right of the large (and often wet)stalactite.

FA: Alexander Hölke, 2014

Sport 27m, 9 Fairy Cave
7b+ Baby’s Song

FA: Sunny Yang, 2014

Sport 19m, 9 Fairy Cave
2016
7b Bye-Bye Kuching

This climb may be wet during the wet season (Dec-April). Pumpy and technical.

Set: DS & Alexander Hölke, Feb 2016

FA: Alexander Hölke, Dec 2019

Sport 27m, 11 Fairy Cave
2019
7a+/b Pulik Likau

Hard boulder start into beautiful face climbing before a technical lay-back sequence to gain the anchor.

Bottom overhanging part is sharp rock and often wet. Top half is good quality, a wide crack/off-width.

Set: Alexander Hölke & Malcolm

FA: Noh Muhammad, Jan 2019

Sport 33m, 12 Fairy Cave
7a Verlängerung

Continue from the Chimney anchor (no-hands) further up through the wall and tufas (crux). Better use long draws for the lower part to avoid rope drag.

FA: Alexander Hölke, Feb 2019

Sport 32m, 17 Fairy Cave
7b Bye-Bye Kuching

This climb may be wet during the wet season (Dec-April). Pumpy and technical.

Set: DS & Alexander Hölke, Feb 2016

FA: Alexander Hölke, Dec 2019

Sport 27m, 11 Fairy Cave

Showing all 89 routes.

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