Routes in Malaysia

65m 7c+ "warm-up"” followed by 35m of 9a climbing.

Climbed by David Lama and Cedric Lachat, most probably hardest route in SEA.

Another Wild traverse. Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" start. After the roof, Follow Cicak, 1st to 3rd clip, then traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny B. Goode" to end at "Jansson’s Temptation"

If Climbed Separately, Garth Reckons the roof called 'A Smile"is grade 8b+ and the wall called "A Tear" is grade 8a

The name apparently came from doing the First Ascent when Garth broke the wings of a bat in one of the deep pockets. A pure roof climb that starts same as "A Smile" but veers left at the 5th bolt

First pitch freed by Yuji Hirayama.

Gringos in the limelight was set up over a couple of weekends in Spring and first climbed on 18 March 2012, by Patrick Andrey, Travis Kale and David Ascott. The route is fully bolted and does not require additional gear (except maybe a sling at pitch 3 if you wish to shorten the run out). All hard moves can be avoided by pulling on gear, however, on pitch 2 you have to climb around 7b obligatoire to reach the next bolt (unless you have a veeeery long stick clip). This route starts with a steep 7c, combining the first three pitches of Exponential Starter to one epic 38m pitch. Another 7 pitches follow all the way to the true summit of Takun. Pitch 2 and Pitch 5 are the cruxes. Both pitches still await a redpoint ascent. Pitch 6 is one of the coolest 7ens in Malaysia: a stunning and super exposed dihedral 150m off the ground! Be aware of the last pitch (4a) having razor sharp flakes and above the last sling loose blocks. At the last sling traverse right, DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP! You can walk down or rappel. It is recommended not to rappel this route since it is continuously overhanging and needs back-clipping. Better head to the right for 30 m (towards campground) and look for rappel bolts. This rappel line follows David and Friend’s new route down to a large ledge from where you can rappel to the ground skipping the first 3 traversing pitches. You need two 60 meter ropes!

Starts under the roof 6m left of "Panggang Cicak" Start

A beautiful arête.

Extension of The Pledge. Another 17 meters of steep and pumpy climbing, partly on stalactites.

easier climb (6a) till 9th bolt, where an intermediate anchor located

Up the holdless slab

Batman Start is about 5 metres to the right of the large tufa of "Two egg bacon burger" Route

Follow "Cicak", 1st to 3rd Clip, then Traverse across "Simtoi", "Bas Laici" and "Johnny be Good" to end at "Jansson's Temptation".

Shares the same first few bolt with open project 3. Recommended if you love steep overhang dyno.

Climb has only been done when wet. May be easier when in good conditions

Amazing climbing into a hard crux into a pumpy finish. Link for beta - The climbing backpackers YouTube: https://youtu.be/5uy53O_UnB8?si=BQVyON3NdbHb-Iuk

This route was named based on a 16th century novel in china- Journey to the West, a main charater called Sun Wukong, also known as the Monkey King. In the novel, he is a monkey born from a stone who acquires supernatural powers through Taoist practices. After rebelling against heaven and being imprisoned under a mountain by the Buddha, he later accompanies the monk Xuanzang on a journey to retrieve Buddhist sutras from India. And the name "Sun" was changed to "Soon" as suggested by a pioneer Penang climber to appreciate Soon’s efforts who have contributed, setup and bolted the additional new routes in Jesselton’s wall and included the hardest and the first ever 8a grade route(arguable) in Penang. (Remarks : For Png climber : 8a with limited hand & foot hold access which marked in white color paint)

Starts at the left hand side of a small cave then traverses left over to some pockets and holds. Then do the dyno and continue up the face/tufas to the anchor. Grade suggestion >7c

Variation of "Cicak" with a roof start. It is recommended to switch Ropes Once on the main wall due to rope drag

Shares Starting bolt with "Broken Wings" and "A Smile". Uses the leftmost boltline. Finish is between the start of "Rodeo Jitam" and "Holy Thundering Meteorite - Batman!".

Gymnastic Roof Climbing leads to the crux towards the end.

1st pitch: 8 bolts ; 2nd pitch, 3 bolts excluding anchors. Can be climbed as a single pitch, tie a knot at the end of the rope.

Climb Canale Grande till 5th bolt and head left.

1st clip need to use stick clip and starting point is very hard boulder move.

Each person, at some stage in their life, has had a dream or fantasy of doing or becoming something. To climb a 8a route sound impossible and hard to imagine for me ever since I started climbing. However, until I setup and bolted this new route. Everything seems possible and reasonably doable. It was my mind holding me back all this while. So, let’s live our dream today and "I'm-Possible !" - Soon.

(Remarks : For Png climber : 8a with limited hand&foot hold access which marked in white color paint.)

Gear : 1 set of micronuts, 2 sets of nuts, 2 sets of Aliens/TCUs, 1 set of Cams, 3 Knifeblades, 2 Lost Arrows, 2 hooks, cheater stick, 60m ropes

Sit start on two sharp crimps then a one move wonder to the slopper. Use the foot hold left side

Start low on the arete slopper. can use the left side crack to step

Follow the corner which starts off with some tufas and leads into a thin crack.

Extension of scotch on the rock

Estimated grade only, FA up for grab for this open project.

The roof up in the right side of the cave up the staircase. Be careful on the approach and at the base of the climb, some parts are slippery and sandy. Be aware that there are likely people below, and any loose rock you break off may hit someone.

Variation of "Simtoi" with a roof start. Shares the 1st bolt with "Pangang Cicak". It is recommended to switch Ropes due to rope drag.

Ground up start at the Tufa of "Two Egg Bacon Burger" and then move right, Shares the last two bolts with "If I could Just Reach My Utility Belt

Shares the starting bolts with as "Bas Laici" but goes to the right then up through the overhanging wall. Named after the famous song by Chuck Berry, and the only western one the local band new and played again and again.

Same start with Jepun 2, climb straight up instead of traversing right. The hardest line in the Jepun trilogy.

Shortly after several bad fall, Maxime just put liquid chalk on his wounds, and sent the hardest boulder problem in Durian Valley so far. Stand start.

follow the long traverse crimp from left to right.

extension of Happy Feet, over the stalactite and roof.

Extension of FYS

Right of Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun, after technical start easy cruising to a powerful move that tests your flexibility.

The routed follows the line just to the right of the large (and often wet)stalactite.

Sustained, pumpy and technical. Has an interestingly-shaped hold looking like a shark fin about halfway up.