Ascents in Mexico by Justin Case having sport-cpr or ascent-date

9 days. 20+ attempts. 11- climbing to a really bad and sharp kneebar rest, to a V6/7 crux involving aa really big move to a left hand pinch on steep terrain. After an OK kneebar rest, long, steep 12- climbing to the chains, split by good kneebar rests. I managed to do all the moves during the first session, including onsighting the whole upper part. The rest of the time was spent trying the bottom part. When I did it, on the last possible attempt of the last possible day, it was the first time I stuck the crux move from the bottom. I was so excited about it that I could hardly control my breathing, let alone remember my top sequences. I commited and trusted my movement to motor memory, and focused on breathing and being patient on the rests, even though my calves and thighs were exploding in pain, pump, and exhaustion. It felt like my legs would give in before my hands and forearms. I powered through sections where I forgot how to do, and I was excited and anxious at the same time. Getting to that triangle jug before clipping the chains was great. It felt like a major milestone in my climbing- something I've wanted for so long. It is also the result of so many hours full of joy, psyche, and effort climbing alone, with friends, through frustration, happiness, but also grief and sadness. I am so thankful for life, for my friends and loved ones who accompanied me along the way, for Chrissy, with all her patient and encouraging belays, training, support, psyche (she initiated the send train by sending Amate earlier) and much more, and of course, to climbing. On to the next one!!

7 shots in total. Fun first session with Esau where I could do all the moves. Did 3 goes in that session, where I managed to two-hang the route. Felt far at the time. Fortunately, I videoed someone with actual good beta on the climb, which, when I went with Chrissy yesterday, I put to good use after my first attempt of the day, and on my second and third go, I one hung the route. Today, I almost sent on my first try of the day had I not tried to unnecessarily readjust. Then, after a tip from Chrissy regarding how to use a pocket, and Kashmir regarding a shoulder rest, I sent and it was glorious. Powerful, relentless, yet techy and precise. I love it, and it's I think my 60th 5.12 of this year, and I have completed my 13a pyramid! Bring on 2024!!

Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!

Fell figuring out the first bit... Average route, first on the Segundo Dinamo. I also tried another route in this sector called Guerra Intensa 5.12b, which I didn't send due to it falling apart on the second half- must've pulled out several handholds and multiple footholds- not great...

Excellent first exposure to Los Dinamos!! I really don't know why I hesitated so much to come to this area in the past. Within Mexico City, and this particular crag is 5 mins away from the parking! Three-crux route (finger lock mantle, crimps to deadpoint, and some more crimps to deadpoints), where I fell in the second crux on the OS. Got it second go in front of my parents who came to visit! I got lost at the end and only just managed to clip the anchors!! The. Streak. Continues.

Non-trivial movement near the start, as the left hand is on sidepulls and your right is pulling the wrong way on a crack. Incites pensiveness. Then the second half are straightforward moves on really good holds through the overhang. Really fun!

Fell on the first boulder problem because I wasn't pre-clipped to the first bolt and I was required to do a somewhat insecure deadpoint. Esau did a great job spotting me! Got it immediately afterwards. Great first steep boulder problem into an easy slab, followed by another rooflet (much easier than the start), ending with long moves on good edges.

Tough for 5.9! Easiest if done without resting at all, as there is no stance that won't eventually tire you. Interesting movement through good holds and a sloping crack.

2nd go! Lucky to have found these super dope people that could belay me seeing that Tirso and Arely had literally just learned to belay a few minutes earlier lol. Bouldery start to a rest, and then another crimpy/lockoffy/deadpointy boulder problem around the middle, finishing in pumpy moves on good holds. The streak continues!! Stoked!!

Set this for my cousin. Nice flowy climbing on good holds!

Tensiony movement on good crimps and edges. Pumpy but beautiful and fun. Going past the trees and seeing the beautiful sunset with light drops of rain falling on us was amazing! Satisfied with the OS.

Easy climbing to a boulder problem that features sloping holds on steep terrain where body tension is necessary. Once the crux begins, there are no real rests until you clip the chains! Excellent route. The one-5.12-a-week streak is still alive!!

Pretty straightforward, well-protected climb on positive terrain and good holds. Good for a beginning leader!

Excellent day of climbing. Got this second go after one beta burn to figure out the crux big move. Same day I Alzheimer OS'd Mala Fama, and backjumped both climbs! Big day, and the streak of climbing at least one 5.12 a week for several weeks now is still alive! Great day to have the cave to ourselves

Got spit off the top again on my first go, but managed to get to the top crux with enough energy to clip the chains despite messing up down low! Super stoked! Great to be climbing in this beautiful place all to ourselves

Excellent route with good new friends from Cuernavaca! After a beta burn where Pablo and David thankfully sprayed it all to me, I got spit off the top twice! Decided to change my beta for the end. Next time!

Super great ending for a great trip. I really missed this place. I also missed trying hard on a route. Tried for 3 days, 7 shots in total. Very pumpy for me, despite the rests. Nice to be climbing again!

Very dirty, kinda scary, no anchors. Movement was otherwise OK.

Pumpy and more overhung than it seems! Bit more than a warm up for me

Fun bouldery start (first 3 bolts). Eases after that. Short route for el Chonta. First 12a in a while!

Great warm-up for other routes. Felt like 5.11- because of endurance, but maybe I have none.

What an insane epic. Took out our cousins to do their first MP. Two teams, Maria and Esau, then I was with Juan and Pablo. Because none of them had their own gear, many of our QD's got used as safeties, had to run out an already f*cking run out climb, had to lead barefooted, and two of our cousins had to simulclimb on their first MP! For a moment I was soloing too. Started at 9am, finished at 11pm. Craziest MP experience ever, I feel brutalized. Happy Birthday Juan!

3 shots. Great boulder problem/route. Works all the opposing climbing muscles. Reachy, strengthy, and controlled. Awesome route.

They told me this was a 5.10... Didn't feel like it at all! Really fun, hard with all the humidity.

Easy techy climb.

Excellent line that starts with a small traverse to a roof with compression on a big tufa, super cool tea-drinking rest, after which comes a megaclassic traverse on good holds. Reminded me of QLD climbing, not because of the style, but because of the hot weather! Long time since I wore shorts on a climb for sure. El Chonta was insectville this weekend.

First solo! Kept getting rope burnt the one day I'd been trying this route (it is kinda badly bolted), Decided to bring crashpads and be spotted by 3 people. Tested possible lowish falls at first and when conditions got worse, Decided to have a proper go. Stuck the moves perfectly and the last huge lockoff move I'd never done, I just endured for what felt like an eternity, but the feeling after catching that last edge was pure exhiliration. First 27! One of the top moments in my climbing

Techfest. These routes all feel harder than 5.9, but they're hella enjoyable.

Another sandbag, but an enjoyable one.

Aaand another sandbag.

Man, it's not great to sandbag the easiest routes in this sector, especially considering there are so many people bringing beginners with no technique here!

So my OS streak on el Chonta is over now... First time sport climbing in a while, and what a way to come back! Ultramarathonic route on the right side of the cave, starting at the namesake yellow amate tree. At least 40m long. Gets harder and harder as you go up, too. Can be divided into two parts: a pumpy and 3D 12a, into an active, but good rest (active sit) on a stalactite, into a 12b power endurance route with the crux protecting the anchors. 3 goes, no dice. Got stung 30+ times by bees

A mega proud onsight! Since there were no draws on this, route-finding was a pump factor for sure, on this maze of stalactites and tufas! Very pumpy and bouldery at spots, but the holds are all good! Last send of the Mexico 2013/2014 trip? Felt awesome! Great rests...

You know what? This here is my favorite climb EVER so far. The movement is just so fun, it's about the only climb I enjoyed a lot repeating, even though I typically never do.

Absolutely, positively, outstanding route. It's like every route I try here is better than the previous one. I got lucky and hit everything right on this one and got one of my best OS's! Very sweet sequences through the roof cruxes XD

This one's to come back to. I tried twice, once on our first day, and another our last. Extremely long route that traverses through a series of very conveniently shaped stalactites. A unique lay into a stalactite high above the ground! Pumpy as all hell! Igor was really really close to sending this!

Excellent climbing through the tufas. First Chonta climb this trip! A great way to start! Sure beats the left of the cave, that's for sure. This became Maria's, Kimberley's, Jin's, and Steve's working project while there.

Excellent, excellent climb. Probably the best one at Potrero that we did. Last one on this trip too! Was only going to film Igor doing it, but felt compelled to try- very pumpy, pockety, sidepully, crimpy and pinchy sustaindness on gently overhanging bulletproof limestone. A MUST-DO! 2nd shot

Very nice, sometimes runout climbing. Better as a warm-up for a climber for whom 5.8 is not that hard, otherwise psychological! Lots of "faithy" reaches and steps on not-that-great footholds

Only did the first two pitches today, Steve's first multi-pitch! Party was Maria, Steve, and myself. Very enjoyable first pitch which was lead by Maria and I lead the second, which felt scary, thin, runout and hard! Definitely feels like more than 10b (guide says 5.10?), and by the end, we all were feeling a bit wrecked, Steve's feet hurt, Maria had a migraine, and I felt like I was coming down with something... All in all, pretty good!

Extremely cool climbing from tufa to tufa at the start, followed by a powerful 3-bolt sequence which marks the crux. Can make it a little easier by wearing a left kneepad. 2nd shot! Very very very psyched to have done it Extremely cool crag, very pretty creek and waterfalls, the canyon is amazing, definitely coming back! BTW, the Tecolote cave is two river crossings away from Las Animas, and once you get to some big boulders with a third river crossing, go right instead and up to the cave!

In one word: SCARY! Very runout and overgrown on the first pitch (easy), and very off-widthy and also very runout on the second. We wanted to get to the top of the spires, but we had to bail after I got to the top of the second (lead both), as it was getting dark and Maria had the pack on which would've made the offwidth pretty hard for her. Lots of plantlife with lots of thorns, and a tricky rap down. One to come back to go to the top!

Only did the first pitch. Very enjoyable climbing with fun moves for a slab. As usual, technical on the feet, typical of limestone!

Very very nice hueco features! Also, some funky body positioning makes for very enjoyable climbing. A must-do of this wall

After trying Team Hilti, Opi recommended us to try this route, and a good recommendation it was! After some bulgy-mantly climbing you get to a clean, gently overhanging pocketed face with excellent pumpy cross over and matching moves all the way to the anchor. Proud OS for sure! Guide says 10d, but feels more like a hard 21, so probably 11a as it says here.