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First Plancha Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 5
  • Aka: First Flatiron

Seasonality

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Description

The brown (vaguely triangular) wall to the right of and down from the overlook.

Access issues inherited from El Potrero Chico

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Approach

Climb the stairs to the overlook, then climb over the fence on the right and down to the wall.

Ethic inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little runout, but thats how they were set, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just send a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start in the chimney right of the Plancha, climb up it, onto and along the ridge, then down to the Lookout.

A good introduction to the terrain found in the longer ridge routes such as "The Scariest Ride in the Park" and "Monster Truck".

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Frank P. Madden

Date: 2022

ISBN: 979-8218024314

The latest guidebook to El Potrero Chico is now available in its third edition. This book has comprehensive detail of not just the routes but how and when to be there. Single pitch or multi-pitch, this book has it all. More great crag photos to help locate the spot you want to climb as well as plenty of topo photos to help you find all the routes you will want to climb. The new edition also has a new history, local history and geology section of the guidebook produced by local members of the community! There is also the long awaited index by grade! A comprehensive guidebook for all of El Potrero Chico, Las Ventanas de Mina (Crescent Moon Buttress and Culo de Gato), Grutas de García, La Popa and Boca de los Potrerillos. Including a couple newly developed crags called Narnia and SunnyVale, and more than a few new routes unpublished anywhere else. Has multi-pitch topo photos for the classic routes with pitch by pitch information.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 26 Apr
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