Routes as trad in Mexico

Subir usando la grieta derecha de Water Animal, misma reunión.

Es la grieta del lado derecho de Dedo Flaco.

Se encuentra a la derecha de Hummingbird Warrior, es una ruta mixta, se necesitan 3 cams o nuts chiquitos, el final es fácil pero difícil de proteger por la calidad de la roca.

Es la grieta entre Cortez y Año Nuevo. Comparte reunión con Año Nuevo.

Located in the upper base. To access, use the fix rope located at the right of Ciudad del Oro.

Located in the upper base. use the fix rope to access. Thin crack on the right.

Es una ruta con la primera placa alta. Para llegar a la base se tiene que hacer un 3ra clase. La vía va por una grieta obvia sobre la cara principal.

Has a white 'x' with a dot at the bottom.

Mix, use cams the first part until you get to the 3 bolts on the top of the shelf. Continue to anchors

Start at the crack and continue till the big roof

Easy climbing with lots of placements, and lots of holds. Not a significant crux identified.

Location Suggest change Climb ¨Merak¨ go get to it or rappel carefully using ¨Sagitario¨s anchor.. Once at the anchor, move to the route´s anchor 20 feet to the right.

Protection Suggest change a full rack. some nuts might come handy too, a #2 and #3 to protect the crux (middle part of the route)

Domo principal, empieza por fisura Corazón de Roca,se desvía a la izquierda saliendo por cara sur

Fisura de dedos a palma y puño con inicio difícil

Ruta mixta empieza por fisura de puño haciendo travesía a la izquierda por cara pasando la primera placa y saliendo por un techo

Excepcional clásica fisura de puño. Descenso sobre placas

Vía Mixta,requiere Camalot #4, Power Cam #2,a placas.

Mismo inicio de Día 7

A HQ left angling crack that hangs over deep water, safe falls all day. Crux is at the beginning, but some zapatos para roca might help Location If you find the waterfall at the map location you can’t miss it

A blue Alien is nice between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. route was 3-4 feet longer before the 2016 storms added gravel to the base Location The middle route on the small slab. Protection 3 bolts and a small cam

A few small to medium cams up to 2 bolts to a shared anchor Location The nice corner on the right of the cliff Protection 2 bolts plus a few trad pieces

Climb the route "El Totem" and continue through the roof until you connect to "La Historia sin fin" and all the way up. In the middle part you can protect with slings. Rope drag!

Ruta comienza en la pared aislada de la izquierda.

La ruta no esta equipada, porque se encuentra cerca de un panal de abejas. Sin embargo, se deja proteger muy bien con friends, nuts y cuerdas. Para aventureros. Cuidado con las abejas (véase información en anotación arriba)!

Extensión de "Dancing Queen" hasta la cima de la torre. Requiere protección con equipo tradicional. Rappel con cuerda alrededor de la torrecita. Solo para aventureros!

En los primeros metros hay un Bolt, después sigue escalada clásica. Rappelar en la ruta "Cumbia Vertical". Aunque es la vía mas fácil que sube a la cima, no es muy recomendable.

Escalada clásica en agarres grandes y con muchos posibilidades para proteger. Ideal para aprender de usar equipo tradicional.

Hay un bolt oxidado en el principio. Después escalada tradicional con muchos posibilidades para proteger hacia la reunión.

Linda pero un poco sucia. Con una cuerda de 70 metros se pueden combinar fácilmente los dos largos. Sin embargo, hay una reunión intermedio por si tienes una cuerda mas corta. En la segunda parte se ocupan unas nuezes o levas.

Una variante aventurosa de la ruta "Fly Away". Después de bolt numero 5 escala hacia la derecha para entrar en una fisura, que se deja proteger bien con levas y nuezes. ¡Cuidado con unas rocas sueltas justo antes de la reunión!

Una variante aventurosa de la ruta "Femme Fatal". Después de bolt numero 7 escala hacia la izquierda para entrar en una fisura que se deja proteger bien con levas y nuezes. ¡Cuidado con unas rocas sueltas justo antes de la reunión! Aunque esa variante es un poco mas difícil que el final original, no cambia el grado.

Entrada directa para evitar la parte difícil de "Maracuya Fatal". Requiere protecciones tradicionales en el principio hasta que llegas al bolt numero 5 de "Maracuya Fatal". No muy recomendable.

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/mexique/les-naufrages-bienheureux-candemana-canyon/

Ruta de escalada que recorre desde la base hasta la cima en estilo tradicional (utilizando solo anclajes naturales) la gran peña blanca es una ruta sencilla en cuanto a dificultad, pero muy divertida y entretenida, se puede hacer utilizando solo cintas protegiendo en anclajes naturales como arboles, pero también hay espacio para usar cams y fisureros

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LnTEg22J8n8

Ruta mixta, utilizar cams #2, #1, #.75

ruta mixta cams #2, #1, Anillo de cinta tubular de 1.20 mts

Ruta mixta cams #.3, #.75 y #.4

ruta mixta cams #2, #.75 y #.4

Ruta mixta camas #2, #3, #.75

ruta mixta cams #.3, #.4, #.5 y #2

Inicia "La Bella" Ruta mixta con un "hand jam crack" que termina equipada con bolts. Continúa en un segundo largo "La Bestia" un diedro con un crux al inicio de la vía. La 1a. reunion se encuentra en una repisa desde donde se puede dar belay comodamente.

Ruta Mixta: 1er largo deportiva, 2o. largo Trad, 3er largo mixto. El tercer largo es una travesía horizontal y después se continúa hacia la parte superior (si se desea hacer cima).

INICIA IGUAL QUE INSOLACIÓN 1, PERO SE TOMA LA GRIETA

Climbs up the obvious big dihedral on beautiful black rock to a ledge with a big tree. Sling the tree for protection then move up the wall on the right of the dihedral plugging cams all the way to anchors at the very top. Do NOT touch the huge chockstone! It moves and may come loose! 18 meters. GEAR: Cams to #3, slings.

Starts directly above the two intimidating huge barrel cactuses. Climb to the bolt and don’t fall or your saddle will never be the same. Ascend the crack then reach a bolt beneath the overhanging huge block. Surmount the block, clip another bolt, and mantle up to the anchors. Three bolts. 14 meters. GEAR: draws and a #1 cam for the crack.

Climbs the crack and dihedral on the right side of the pillar. A 5.8 start leads to an alpinestyle scramble around the top of the pillar. This is the shortest path to top of the pillar. Best to lower or rap off the Train Robbers anchors. 15 meters. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, a sling for a chockstone, & a hex or two.

Climb knobby pillar through three bolts then head up the slabby ridge around the right side of the huge hanging block, then trending left above to a bolt above the block (upper route A). Work left to another bolt then up the SE face of the upper headwall through two more bolts, finishing at anchors (two bolts and chains). Slightly run-out after the second bolt; can plug cams (#.75 to #2) in a small crack system if needed. 30 meters.

Climb the crack system up to and around the huge hanging block to a sloping ledge, then head straight up the central upper face (upper route B) placing creative gear, with the best placement being a thread you can sling midway up. GEAR: Brown tri-cam, a sling for the thread, and cams to plug in pockets (#1 and #3). If feeling a bit prodigal with your gear, you can clip the bolt above the hanging block with an extended sling before taking on the upper headwall. Finishes at same top anchor as Preacher Man (two bolts and chains). 30 meters.

Climb up the central crack for 5 meters, then sling knobs and horns all the way to the top. No anchor at top. Can build a trad anchor at the top for top rope or to bring up a second. Approx. 30 meters. Can also walk off the top. GEAR: Small to medium cams, slings.

Climb straight up the dihedral, plugging gear in the dihedral’s crack, the step right to get over the large block, finishing with a brushy scramble to the top. No top anchors. Best to walk off. GEAR: cams and nuts. 25 meters.

Start at the base of the short, steep face 2 meters north of the dihedral and head straight up the arête, staying to the right along the edge, plugging gear where you can find it (it’s sparse but there when needed). Head up to the big block at the top, traverse up its left sloping edge, then plug a piece in the big dihedral and move to the anchors of Pura Vida. 25 meters. GEAR: Small cams up to #2, nuts, slings.

From the ledge beneath the Fins, climb the black dihedral at the north end of the ledge, stemming if needed, up to a small dirty ledge beneath a big chockstone. Go over the chockstone and into the wide chimney, finishing either up to the right to the anchors for SAMBA and DOCTOR LOVE or up and to the left to the anchors on the top of the North Fin. GEAR: Cams from #.5 to #3 and a small nut or two. 20 meters to anchors from ledge.

Starts just to the north of the bottom of the Fins, up easy ground to the first bolt, then up over a big step to a second bolt beneath a tiny cave. Climb up and left, following a crack system to the large, sloping ledge. Step up onto the ledge and toward the large chimney and chockstone above FRANKIE FOUR FINGERS, finishing the same as that route. GEAR: Cams from .5 to #1, a #3, and/or some medium nuts. Variation: Upon reaching the large sloping ledge, you can move to the right beneath the small roof, clip the bolt, and finish up through the roof as for DOCTOR LOVE. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Climb through the first bolt of Samba, moving right to the obvious crack system. Ascend the cracks straight up, lying back off the big flake, then up to the sloping ledge to a bolt beneath the small roof. Move up and grab the big tongue of rock (Gene Simmons-sized) on the roof, puling the roof to a small ledge and another bolt. Step left and up the bulging rock onto the ridge and to the anchors (two bolts and chains). GEAR: small to medium sized cams and nuts. Save the #.75 for protecting the move to get over the roof. 30+ meters. Watch your rope length!

Starts just south of the obvious gully and heads up a slab to a bolt beneath the roof to the right. Step into the steep gully, plugging small cams, and head up to another bolt at top of the ridge, then climb over the big block . Sling huge boulders above for an anchor. 15 meters, two bolts. There are no bolted anchors at the top, so bring enough gear to build an anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Climb the big slab just right of the gully, up to a left-sloping ramp beneath a small overhang where the ramp ends. Then head straight up and slightly to the left, following the crack system that tops out between the gully and the huge vertical block (the “Perch”). Head further up on easy ground and build an anchor in blocks to the left of the Perch. There are no bolted anchors at the top. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Follows the start of The Red Zone to the end of the ramp, then head straight up and slightly to the right, following a winding crack system all the way to the top. The crux is the last there meters beneath the top-out below the Perch. Build and anchor up and left of the Perch. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings.

Climb the slab plugging gear in the crack to the right while avoiding the serious barrel cactuses. Continue up the steeping face to beneath the small tree, plug a good piece, and make a move up and to the right of the tree (without grabbing it!). Then follow the slabby arête up to a two-bolt anchor at the base of the Hawk’s Perch. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts.

Climb up the ramp to the obvious crack that leads to an orange overhang. Get good hands to lean out and step up, plug a solid piece or two in the good crack in the dihedral, then pull up on some overhanging jugs to a small ledge. Sling a horn or two, and move up the easier ground to some big huge blocks. From here, the route becomes and alpinestyle scramble, interrupted with occasional bushy areas, following the ridgeline as high as it goes. Most will feel comfortable soloing this ridge. See the photo for the upper portion.

This “ballsy” route starts up the north angling ramp and into the steep system of short cracks and pockets, then heads straight up (pick your own way) to the top, where the angle backs off. Protection on this route is spotty, and the rock quality is marginal in spots. Climb this route carefully and beware of loose rock!!! There are no bolts or anchors on this pillar. Create a belay or top-rope anchor up on top with gear. There is an easy walk-off from the top. GEAR: A set of nuts, cams up to #2 (single stem are better to fit into pockets), and slings for knobs and horns. Tri-cams are useful in the pockets.

Starts near the north edge of the southern-most pillar of rock. Climb up the steep bottom face, plugging gear in short cracks, and head to the hammered-in knife-blade beneath the big block. Move up the left side of the block, then step out right onto the face of the block and pull up for a short rest on top of the block. Step up and move left on thin holds to plug gear in a pocket, then head straight up to some short thin cracks, plug a piece, and climb the overhanging jugs to anchor. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, a medium hex or a 2” single-stem cam (Trango #7) for the pocket (Camelots don’t fit). And balls. 14 meters.

This is a spicy alternate finish to Acme Suction Cups. After clipping the third bolt, traverse left to the arête. Climb up the overhang, plugging a big cam in the crack, then take a rest on the big ledge. Traverse left on the ledge deep into the huge dihedral to the bottom of a big flake with a crack. Climb the crack all the way to the top, plugging cams. GEAR: cams ½” to 2”. 17 meters. Note: this route is not shown in the topo photo, but it’s easy to see once you go left around the corner.

Starting just left of the corner, climb up the steep face to a bolt, then head straight up to a short slanting crack approx.. 2.5 meters above the bolt and slightly to the right. Plug a small cam or nut, then head straight up through three more bolts to anchors. Climbing upper half just left of the bolt line goes at 5.10b, while just right of the bolt line goes 5.10c. GEAR: Draws for four bolts and one ½” cam or nut placement (BD Camelot .5 or Yellow Alien/Totem). 14 meters.

Start beneath the obvious overhanging bulge, moving up and around the left of it, then swing right onto the bulge and move up, sling the big chicken head, and move up to a left slanting crack (takes a #2 cam) and onto a small ledge, then straight up to anchors. GEAR: Small to medium cams, nuts, slings. 14 meters.

An alpine adventure that offers the easiest route off climbs #1 thru #4 (and the preferred way to rap into them). From the P2 anchors climb over and down the pillar then head up the ramp toward the airy arête. Sling the obvious pyramid horn , then traverse left and upward toward the top, plugging small cams. Pull a 5.10b/c move to the anchors if you avoid grabbing the little tree. GEAR: Small cams, slings. 25 meters.

Head up the ramp aiming for the crack in the dihedral and follow that crack as is steepens, moving up to a small roof where the crack peters out. Step out left to move up and around the overhang, then continue up and slightly right to a big, sloping ledge and move toward the base of the big, vertical crack that heads up the steep dihedral. A two bolt anchor is above a big pyramid flake at the base of the dihedral. GEAR: Cams from .5” to 3”, nuts. Pitch 2 - 5.10b Trad – Head straight up the dihedral crack, stemming and jamming and fighting your way to the big ledge 15 meters up. GEAR: Medium to large cams up to #4.

Pitch #1: Head up the dihedral with a crack in the solid black rock. Climb up to the cactus then step right onto a ledge, then move up and back left, following the finger crack in the dihedral on your left all the way up to a ledge beneath blocky black rock and a two-bolt anchor. This is a long pitch, approx. 30+ meters. If you lower off or rappel from here, WATCH YOUR ROPE LENGTH & CLOSE THE SYSTEM WITH KNOTS IN THE ROPE ENDS!!! Pitch #2: Climb up the short, steep face above the anchor bolts. Place a small cam or nut in the groove above the bolts to protect the move off the belay, then pull up onto a small ledge and place a tiny nut in a crack near your right hip. Traverse left and slightly up, placing another small nut to protect the second from a pendulum fall. Move to the base of the steep pink wall and build a gear belay in the excellent cracks (there are no bolts). Pitch #3: Move up the cracks, onto the huge boulder, then ascend the grey pillar, best done by moving out right onto the pillar’s north face (enjoy the exposure!). Then head straight up, working through steep, blocky terrain (the rock is better quality than it appears), until you can pull over the edge into the brush and to the two-bolt anchor on the big boulder on top. 25 meters. Do NOT move left onto the orange and grey rock below the brushy finish – that section contains loose blocks and flakes. To top completely out, climb the short face to the west up to a big ledge with bolts and chain anchors. GEAR: Double set of cams (small to #3, or add a set of hexes) and a set of small nuts.

Starts at the northwest base of the formation, climbing onto the big boulder then traversing left to get to the base of the crack separating the pink and grey rock. Climb the crack, plugging gear, and mantel onto a ledge. From the ledge, finish the route via the upper half of Under My Thumb. GEAR: Small to medium cams. 20 meters.

Start on the west side of the base of the pillar, in the corner, beneath a shallow crack and groove. Move up, plugging some creative pieces in the groove, then scramble up to the sloping ledge beneath the big, obvious fist-sized crack. Plug big cams in the crack and climb your way all the way to the top. It is an easy walk-off on the back side (east) of the top. There are no anchors or bolts on this pillar. GEAR: Big cams up to #5 (or #4). Big hexes are useful too.

Offwidth

Offwidth with variant to the right.

Closed and chopped route. Empiezas por una chimenea entre la piedra separada y “El Reliz”. Ya no cuenta con plaquetas y solo se puede escalar en tradicional, pero en realidad está prohibido escalar aquí.

Si vienes caminando de la carretera hacia “El Reliz” esta sería la primer línea de plaquetas que podrás encontrar, pero ojo: es ruta mixta y si tomas la hebra podrías caer al piso.

Closed and chopped route. You can identify this route by finding the old style, home made, rusted, round hanger like 6 meters above the ground.

Closed and chopped route.

Grieta muy bonita en el centro de la cara principal de la pared.

Vía con una grieta continua del suelo al lo alto, en la parte izquierda del sector. levas requeridas camalots 0.5 al 5 ( morado a morado) La reunion se comparte con la vía Colibri. Primera via en ser escalada en el Tepeite por Christian Del Valle

THe 1st trad line on the Bay, Amazing hand jams, beautiful line great rock quality, If not trad gear top rope can be set from Throw stones

De esta ruta se pueden montar los top ropes, preferentemente usar protecciones de trad para accesar a la parte superior

1er largo: 4ta clase 2do largo: 4ta clase 3er largo: 4ta clase 4to largo: 4ta clase con reunion trad 5to largo: 5.6