Routes in Mexico

Es una ruta corta de fuerza en los dedos al inicio tiene desplome que termina a la mitad de la ruta.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8LejeQokonQ

Starts in the corner just where there is an old tree trunk looking out behind some rocks. Climb up at the crack and slightly left to the obvious bulge that you can pass left or right and then cruise through good jugs to the anchor of P1. P1 11 bolts, P2 10 bolts

A crux boulder problem off the ground leads to three dimensional climbing through massive stalagtites to the anchors.

Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it.

Pasa por el lado izquierdo de la pequeña cueva.

--EN--

Climbs the left side of the small save.

Has a metal plate with the name on it. Really easy, the fun begins when you get to the bulge where you have to move into the leftside super flat wall. Use your balance and it´ll be really fun.

Hebrada - Runout P1: 9 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 9 bolts R.

Cuidado, hay roca suelta al final del tercer largo. La última reunión está ubicada dentro del canal de 4ta clase.

Watch for loose rock from last bolt to summit. Last anchorblocated in the 4th class canal.

La bajada - Descent

El segundo largo tiene una reunión intermedia (maillones) para cordadas con cuerda de 60m.

Second pitch has an intermediate anchor (mailons) for parties using 60m ropes.

Si tu cuerda es de 70m, usar la reunion que tiene un aro y cadena conectando los dos anclajes.

If your rope is 70m,use the anchors which has a ring and chain joining both anchors.

Same start as "The Great Baldini", but branches right afetr the 3rd bolt.

Starts near the upper end of the Los Lobos wall, just a bit right (downhill) of the Estrellita rappel route. Has a name plate, and a clear left-facing corner on pitch 2.

1. 5.8 30m. Climb up a broken pillar leaning against the wall to a good ledge.

2. 5.9 25m. Climb up over a small roof then follow a left-facing corner with some tough layback moves.

3. 5.9 40m. Climb consistently good movement past an intermediate rappel anchor to a belay in an alcove.

4. 5.10a 15m. Step down and right from the alcove onto the steep face, then up to the top of the ridge.

Descent: with a 70m rope, rappel from the top anchors to the intermediate anchors on P3 (35m rappel), then to the ledge at the top of P1. (With a 60m rope (ugh), it might take 5 rappels.) With double 60m's rappel to the top of pitch two, then to the ground.

Juggy climbing through stalagtites leads to the top.

A cool start up a massive stalagmite leads to large stalagtites to the top.

Second route on RHS.

The rightmost of 3 routes, 10 feet over from Coca Cola.

A beautiful endurance route that starts on massive stalactite formations and ends on technical tufas to the base of the large roof.

First route right of the chimney.

Cuidado, cerca de la reunión hay un panal de abejas.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBBm53kmVoo

Sigue después de la repisa.

This is the classic Bernalina! Epic multi-pitch. To descend, preferably have somebody who has gotten to the top and rapped down before. You will need two ropes. You can either rap down the way you came (only recommended if you can't find the rap station that I will tell you about in a sec) or you go to the cross, go down to the left of it, scramble all the way down and right to a huge drop (slab of white rock), here be VERY careful or have your buddy secure you so you can go and find the anchors from which you can rap down to a place where you can walk off to the right until you find a via ferrata, where you rap again another, more positive slab. From there on, scamble down. If you go on the rap near the cross, a single 60m ropes will be enough, there's an intermediate station on the first rap.

1. 4 bolts + anchor

2. 4 bolts + anchor

3. 10 bolts + anchor

4. 4 bolts + anchor (long or alpine draws recommended)

5. 2 bolts + anchor (~20m walk / scramble on the ledge to the base of P6)

6. 15 bolts + anchor (some bolts can be skipped since a lot of them are very close together)

7. 1 bolt + anchor

P1 & P2 can be easily linked with a 60m rope, and you still have 5~7m of rope left.

P6 & P7 can be linked in one go with a 60m rope (barely 2~3m left) as long as you build the anchor on the first point (there are 4 anchor at the top at least).

Un pequeño boulercito en el principio, después placa hasta la reunión.

Via tradicional de pericos normalmente usada para enseñar a escalar a niños

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgV5LqQBVdQ

Una via super clasica de pericos con un inicio algo fuerte como tipo v3 de bloque, luego de eso hay muchos sloppers que si giras el cuerpo se vuelven cazuelas, cuenta con 3 o 4 descansos donde puedes soltarte de las 2 manos.

POV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXkB3gBfbtM

Endurance stalactite climbing through a steep wall at the bottom of the cave. Use a long quickdraw at the 10th bolt to prevent friction.

Two dihedrals, the right most now bolted, up to an anchor.

Originally used for belaying local kids to introduce them to climbing.

Dos diedros, el de la extrema derecha ahora plaqueteado, hasta una reunión.

Originalmemte se usaba para dar belay a niños locales en sesiones de introducción a la escalada.

To the right of Spiderman

Lovely route. Goes up for 5 bolts, then angles leftward.

12 plaquetas + reunión con cadenas y maillones grandes (08/22).

La línea izquierda de las 3 rutas largas que van por a las reuniones en piedra amarillosa y grisacea.

---ENG---

12 bolts + anchors with chains and big maillons (08/22).

The leftmost line of the 3 longer routes going up to the yellowish and grey top.

Scramble up on the sloping ledge (1 bolt) and tackle the vertical wall. Trends slightly right to an anchor left of a thin tufa.

La via más clásica de pericos favorita de principiantes e invitados.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sVGiDV2fo70

Another classic in EPC. Climbs the big obvious flake feature. Don't wander onto the face, just really get into that crack.

Dane's book puts this as 5.11c, and Simeon copies this error. Ed and Frank give it 5.10c. If it is 5.10c, it is the softest 5.10c in the world.

Excelente proyecto principiante. Un desplome muy bueno donde pondrás a prueba tu habilidad de pisar adecuadamente y girar la cadera para sacar el crux bien (eso o puedes solo hacer crimps mamados)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUXnqfxM4CE

Same start as the dynamic 11c to the right then cut left after the no hands rest. A beautiful v3/4 boulder problem on crimps and pebbles over the bulge. A must do

Buena via para calentar! Recomendado 1 o 2 cintas largas

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6e_PpoMmLnA

retro-bolted trad route.

Beautiful jug haul on a near vertical face, with a slightly more technical finish.

3 bolts + 2 en reunion.

If you climb left mid-route it's a little easier.

Climb the slab to a bulge and on to a nice finish.

13 + Anchors with permanent lower offs.

Slabby starts with pockets, goes into vertical balancy moves, then climbs through a column into a steep bulge super fun moves, juggy in the in the end.

BOLTED BY ADIEL VILLANUEVA & JOE GUADARRAMA

De las mejores rutas de este sector en ese grado.

Ruta que comienza justo a la derecha del bloque y el árbol. Primera placa elevada.

Starts downhill and to the left on the taller spire. Look for the chimney system that goes up -- the climb starts in/up this chimney.

This is not your usual EPC 5.9; it is solid in the grade, not closely bolted, and a lot of crack work, rather than face climbing. Having some gear to supplement the missing bolt and the old iron pitons is a good idea unless you are completely solid at 5.9.

1. 5.7: Climb up blocky/vegetated ledges passed a few bolts to the anchor. Slightly runout but well protected where it counts.

2. 5.9: Follow the crack making use of jamming/chimney/dihedral technique passing a few bolts and old Mexican irons. At one of the Mexican irons, look out right for a bolt, you should come out of the crack and make your way up a bolted slab to the anchor. Continuing in the crack will lead you to unprotectable (without trad gear) moves that are slightly harder than 5.9.

3. 5.10-: A quick boulder problem allowing you to stand on top of the pillar. Uncomforatble belay.

There is a short 3rd pitch to the top of the pillar on one bolt and old iron rings (or gear). It is short, but steep. There is a new anchor at the top with two hangers, there is also a rappel down the south side from the top.

Descend by rappelling down "Getting Wood". With twin 70m ropes you can make it down in a single rappel. 60m would also probably work but this is untested at the moment.

Empieza a la izquierda de la ramera, las primeras placas estan algo viejas pero si aguantan. A partir del tercero ya son placas modernas.

Video https://youtu.be/xB8xSBcuAGw

Just right of the center line, a classic.

Juggy climbing through stalagtites just left of the organ pipes.

Dirty rock down low leads to glassy climbing up high on great jugs.

Starts right behind a concrete picnic BBQ/table.

Be careful at the finish (last bolt) to stay right, else you'll finish on the anchors of "Redheaded Stepchild".

Esta ruta requiere de fuerza en los brazos, dedos y equilibrio. Por esta ruta todo el bloque se llama picudo.

P1: 5.8, 35 mts, 8+R. P2: 5.9, 25 mts, 4+R. P3: 5.10, 30 mts, 8+R.

no olvides tus nudos en las puntas

Grieta

Very steep, techy and powerful 5.12c. Follow the tufas and slopey huecos, 5 star line, bolted by Canek and Mudo, incompleted, Alex Catlin added one bolt more, anchors and extension. There used to be a small "tree" near the anchors but is not there anymore.

Starts with some technical climbing that ends on a nice ledge (you can use the easier "Gusada Negra" route that ends in the same set of anchors as well)

After that its easy climbing with classic EPC runouts to train you mentally for more EPC climbing.

There are plans to make it climbable all the way up the mountain but for now it ends in P8 where you can have lunch on.

Rappel down the line.

First climb to the RHS.

Climb the broken corner to a high first bolt, and generally climb right of the bolt line on mostly good holds.

In the center of the "curve". Very high first bolt and maybe a little run-out at times.

Ruta de pasos largos con agarres generalmente buenos y un par de regletas, hay un crux en la 4ta y en la 5ta cinta.

Vídeo de la ruta https://youtu.be/S08CnBX_z6Y

Ruta muy bonita para aprender a usar los pies y saber que puedes usar pisaderas que no creias posibles. Buen primer o segundo proyecto de escalada en exterior.

Ruta establecida en trad por Carlos Flores El Russo. Necesita mantenimiento en la reunión y preferentemente elevar la reunión unos metros para evitar la fricción

Start on easy grey stone to the fourth bolt and the business stays with you until the very last move.Stellar .

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch. Bring a 70m rope and 24 draws if linking pitches. Fixed draws on P7 for rappelling the traversing pitch.

SEVENTH ROUTE FROM LEFT TO RIGHT. FIRST PITCH BOLTED BY ALEX CATLIN. SLABBY THING MOVES IN SLAB. 10 METERS LONG

EXTENSION FOR ANOTHER 25 METERS. ROUTE GOES INTO PINCHY TUFA HOLDS AND POCKETS ,THEN INTO LAY BACK DIHEDRAL.PASSED THAT KEEPS GOING INTO POCKETS AND JUGS. EXTENSION BOLTED BY JOE GUADARRAMA.

Walk up the trail made of concrete tires leftwards from the tin pavilion until you get to the left-most set of bolts, just before the gulley that is "Tamirindo". The first pitch trends leftwards, avoiding the obvious roof.

First pitch was originally climbed as a trad route called, "The Adventures of Mr Bean".

Ultima via hacia la Izq. Armada por Marcelo Gonzalez. cuidado con bloques sueltos a la izquierda de esta via.

Ruta al lado izquierdo de Parasiempre.

Has name plate.

Grieta bonita, Crux al final.

The REAL GRADE of this route si 5.11c. If you decide to stay on the blank face of the wall and DO NOT use the dihedral/arète on the right side of the final section the grade is harder 5.12a/b but this is a variation and should not be considered the official grade of the route since it is not the best beta.

Fun huecoey traverse to the left, climb all the huecos, goes all the way to Arbolito`s anchor, crosses ununpentium as well. 5 star line. bolted by Ricardo Vara.

La ruta esta directamente enfrente de un sabino enorme.

Comparte reunion Inyca, se puede dar belay con cuerda de 70mts desde abaja o con cuerda de 60mts desde la repisa donde hay una proteccion para anclar al asegurador.

Ruta de muchos pies

Stalactite climbing leads to a thin section through pockets to a finish on large stalactites.

Near the top, follow the flake that trends left to the anchors of "Mexico in Flames"

Follow the golden stripe for awesome technical and long climbing.

Muy buena ruta. Le faltan 3 placas en sección muy fáciles