Routes in Mexico

Shares start with "Porn Star Obsession" but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a loose block was trundled making it much harder at the crux.

The perfect warm-up, super nice climbing on mostly good holds.

Con bandas permanentes. Empieza por un boulder a una repisa y después a la pared desplomada. Muy divertida, calentamiento oficial. Tiene extensión 5.12a, armada por Aaron Jelt.

---ENG---

Follow the permadraws. Climb over a large boulder in the wall to pockets above. Super fun, official warm-up. With extension 5.12a, bolted by Aaron Jelt.

Ruta divertida, buenos agarres de dedos.

12 bolts + 2 reunión con permanentes (08/22)

"Veinte años después" es un diedro. Es buena ruta para principiantes.

Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall. Rebolted with glue ins November 2015.

Record de tiempo protegiendo cada una de las bandas: 2:00 David Ramiro Zúñiga

14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22)

A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles.

Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt.

Starts on the right side of the big boulder (4 bolts, 3 behind the block), then sketchy move to get to the wall. If you go straight the grade is 5.11b+, but if at the crux you go left then it is a 5.11a.

Esta ruta es muy clásica y es de las mas escaladas en esta pared. Es muy cortita y es buena para calentar.

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

2. (5.9) More bolts.

3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

9. (5.9) Bolts.

10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

11. (5.10a) Bolts.

12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Permadraws at anchor (nov'22).

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

Starts just right of Honey Bear with a crux up high. Permadraws starting at bolt 4 on a clean face with tufas.First bolted winter 2001 and rebolted with glue November 2015.

short route.

Ruta corta con inicio cruxoso y sobado.

Obvious roof with a big hole on it.

El proyecto principiante por excelencia de pericos, se dice que si encadenas la papita ya puedes decir que eres intermedio.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo2oLJmgo2g

Ruta para principiantes, sostenida y divertida. For beginners, fun and sustained

Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone.

One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic.

Has a metal plate with the name on it. Tiene placa de metal con el nombre.

really fun moves, lots of footholds. movimientos divertidos, muchas pisaderas.

Left most climb on south facing wall

Climbing through hidden jugs on a steep wall, a lot harder than it looks. The leftmost route on the wall. This is actually one of the worst routes on this wall, despite its popularity. If it is your first time here and looking for something easy, better try Chukrut, it is a lot friendlier and fun.

Starts on the right side inside the cave and leads out to an anchor just next to the big tufa.

Este es el comienzo de un Multilargo de tres pitches, el cual no tiene nombre. Después del primer pitch, es una ruta bastante abandonada, llena de piedra suelta y mucho arbusto espinoso. Esta muy interesante como vas escalando por el filo de la montaña, con muchos balcones para descansar. Todos los pitches son 10a, con muy buenos agarres. Estaría bien limpiar la ruta, ya que es una muy buena opción para un multi para principiantes. Bajas usando las cadenas de “La Hiedra”, ya que acaban en el mismo lugar.

A bouldery start leads to large jugs to the top.

Face climbing on cool pebbles.

7 + Reunión con mosquetones permanentes

Grieta corta de color naranja y con agarres muy peculiares. Súper clásica.

---ENG---

7 + Anchor with permanent lower-offs

Short orange crack with very peculiar holds. Must do!

Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015.

This Potrero classic was bolted entirely on the weekends. Starts just north of the pavilion. Loose rock. Helmet recommended. Please be careful of the partying Mexicans below. This route has been climbed in 2 1/2 hours, car to car. Take 20 draws if you combine pitches, works well for 1&2, 3&4 and on top. You have to rap from the dedicated rap station below the bulge (belay station 3 after pitch 4) if you have a 60m rope.

A must do for everyone not alergic to bats.Start on the lower left part of the upper csve and follow the bolts through the tunnel to exit on top of the upper wall. Mega Classic.

"Best 5.8 in Potrero." according to Dane's guidebook.

First climb right of the dihedrals, goes past an intermediate anchor after 5 bolts.

"El mejor 5.8 de potrero" según la guía de Dane Bass.

Primera ruta a la derecha de los diedros, pasando una reunión inteedia despues de la quinta placa.

Ruta técnica, pocos descansos naturales, con un par de hebras de casi 3 metros. Starts just left of the blocks with a low first bolt and follows left of the crack higher up.

Starts where the staircase hits the wall.

Recently re-bolted (as of 2014), 8 bolts to first anchor and 3 for the extension. 5.10a to intermediate anchor, 5.10b to final anchor.

Es la primera ruta de derecha a izquierda, hay algunas varillas oxidadas en el inicio de la ruta.

The third route going up the staircase. Its a very nice and easy roof with huge holds, easy to read.

Hay que llevar algo para ecualizar bien la reunión; por cómo está la roca las placas de la reunión tuvieron que ponerse muy separadas.

6 largos los niveles son: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+ (diedro) 7 (2 plaquetas). Muy buena ruta, algo de roca suelta. Lleven unas 14 bandas, porq el 11 esta muy bien protegido.

6 pitches: 10a, 11c, 10-, 9, 10+, 7

Después de un boulder de una roca alta, está el primer bolt

Starts just right of the dry bush. Follows the tufa and small break trending left to an anchor just below the small roof.

Climb clean face to obvious overhang, pull overhang and finish up slab above to anchors.

Recomended 80m rope. Knot the end of your rope.

With shorter than an 80m rope, bring 2nd up and rappel twice using the anchor of "Flying Scorpions" to the right.

With a long/stretchy 70m rope, and a heavy climber, you might make it within acceptable scrambling distance of the ground.

Ruta establecida en trad, la primera sección por Adrian Elizondo El Pirulo y la extensión sección por Carlos Flores El Russo tmbn en Trad. Paco Medina equipó la ruta de manera deportiva.

Short route with anchor right of the small tree. Robin named this route. I don't know why but its funny. Watch the loose blocs above the anchors.

Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake.

Grieta hacia la izquierda

Start on the dark grey streak.

Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock.

Follows hidden jugs through massive huecos to the top of the wall.

De los 11s más accesibles de pericos, sube en linea recta.

El crux son una serie de crimps algo apretados.

El pico que esta junto a la 3er cinta se rompio hace tiempo y fue pegado nuevamente con resina.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6l1VghN7g-Y

Si evitas utilizar la rampa de la derecha, las primeras tres placas de esta ruta te dan un buen 5.10a con huecos pequeños y pisaderas de fricción.

Previamente la primer plaqueta estaba muy alta en el diedro vertical, debido al inicio sencillo que está a favor.

Ahora, si se comienza por la izquierda del árbol, hay dos plaquetas en el tramo a favor, la primera de estas se comparte con "Lagrimas de mi chorizo". (may'22)

La reunión ahora tiene tres plaquetas, y es posible ecualizarla. Para desmontar, la plaqueta derecha tiene una cadena larga, la central dos aros de rappel y la izquierda no tiene nada. (may'22)

Previously the first bolt was quite high on the vertical dihedral, due to an easy slabby start.

Now, if started left of the tree, now there are two bolts on the slab, the first of which is shared with "Lagrimas de mi chorizo". (may'22)

The anchor now has three bolts and is possible to equalize. To rappel, the right bolt has a long chain, the center one has two rappel rings and the left one has nothing. (may'22)

Super buena!

Goes up the yellowish rock, has a name plate.

Buldercito en el principio.

Has a metal plate with the name on it. a bit run-out on the easy sections, really fun route.

Trends right for the first 6 bolts or so to the bush and then goes up straight.

Super cool squeezed line between the 11's. Yes the final hold was comfortized for comfort and positivity and to avoid another 5.13. An extension to this would yeild a magnificient 13-/+ of 40+ meters.

Hay un techo a la mitad de la ruta. Goes up the slab and over a small roof to the anchor.

Tufa

Via super clasica para principiantes. Recomendado limpiar en rappel. Aunque recién le cambiaron mallones y ya tiene cadena ecualizada

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8coFezk1OE

LA PRIMERA REUNION CORTA QUE ESTA A UNOS METROS SALIENDO DE LA PANZA, ES REUNION INTERMEDIA PARA CAMBIAR CUERDA SI LA HACES CON 60M PARA EL RAPEL DE REGRESO, PERO SI TRAES DE 70, LE SIGUES SIN PROBLEMA .

The line passing over the big hole higher up. Has 2 perma draws before the anchor.

Starts on the slab right of the palm tree and goes up right to the first anchor. From there follow the airy arrete to the top. Each pitch 6 bolts.

Muy buena vía de equilibrio. Movimientos técnicos de placa. Muy divertida y recomendable!

Second route going up the staircase.

Primera ruta en el sector. Evita agarrarte de la estalactita quebradiza, aunque así seria mas fácil (5.9), pero se puede romper. La ruta contiene el mejor agarre de San Cristóbal en los primeros metros.

Jug haul on slab. Ideal route to practice your multipitch technique. Runs up just to the left of "Evil Shenanigans".

This is the obvious line going up along the grey tufas.

Starts in the middle of the cave with nice tufas. The first route in the cave and the one to do asap.Think 3d people.

Los movimientos exigentes estan en las primeras dos plaquetas, bonita ruta.

nineth route . slaby start into vertical tufa climbing and pockets, tight crux ,sloppy, well bolted. sustained and fun!bolted by ALEX CATLIN.25 M (5.11c)

EXNTENSION GOES INTO 35 M 5.11d , KEEP GOING ON FUN JUFFY BALANCY MOVES, THIN CRIMPY INTHE END, NICELY STEEP, MUSSY HOOKS AS FIXED ANCHOR PINTS. BOLTED BY : JOE GUADARRAMA

Si terminas en la reunion de de Danonino es 10a.

Around the right side of the main wall. 3rd pitch is rated "R" (runout) until finished (trad recomended for 3rd pitch if not done in solo). After the 3th. anchor, starts a trad multipitch, rated 5.9+ R/X. The name is Nicotina wich means nicotine. 3er largo es "R" (runout), desprotegido hasta reunion (se recomienda equipo de trad si no se quiere hacer en solo hasta reunion). Después de la tercer reunion, comienza una ruta en tradicional que va hasta la cima. Son 6 largos mas de escalada 5.9+ R/X. Nicotina es el nombre de la ruta en trad.

Por la cara entre el diedro de Chuy y el diedro de lágrimas de mi chorizo.

Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.Climb a blocky start to a no hands ledge.Pump through the overhung arete inside the dahiedrel and tread right through tufas and back left on crimps and jugs to the anchors.

Extension of Arbolito. The extension goes into 5.13c, it's crimpy, steep, slopey and cruxy.

Scramble up on the sloping ledge right of the detached block (you might want to clip the first bolt of Mouchie Mouchie) and take the left bolt line up the headwall.

This route is named "the cow spits", this is because the entry is hard and beginner will have a hard time passing it

sixth route from left to right. first anchor bolted by : CONNIE DE CATLIN. EXTENSION GOES INTO 5.11A FOR ANOTHER 25 METERS. EXTENSION BOLTED BY RAMON HUERGO. SUPER FUN CLIMBING JUGGY INTO VERTICAL CLIMBING. POCKERY TRICKY MOVES INTO PINCY TUFAS.

Puros agarres buenos y muchos pies.

Tiene 2 crux en la 4ta y 5ta cinta, mismas que ahora están permanentes de acero inoxidable para más seguridad al proyectar.

Un raro 11 de pericos donde no hay que crimpear.

https://youtu.be/3r8Lwsr56lk

Dato curioso: La vía se llama así porque cuando la estaban armando había un árbol con una rama en forma de tridente. (Actualmente ya no está)

Starts just left of the tree and trends left up top.

this is the 3rd route from left to right, slabby start ,goes into vertical climbing, fun ,fun ,easiest route in the crag .35 m long

BOLTED BY :ADIEL VILLANUEVA Y JOE GUADARRAMA.

Listed as 5.9+ in the (Ed's) book, the route setter (Dane Bass) calls it an honest 5.8.

(Dane's book lists it as 5.9) The name of the route is written with red ink (hard to find).

Cuerda de 70m mínimo para dar seguro en el primer largo.

2 largo casi terminado, falta la reunion.