Routes in Mexico for selected grade

Inicio técnico, con salida a desplome y cazuelas , comparte seccion superior con papanicolau

un diesecito largo, el crux esta a la mitad es un paso de izquierda a derecha. preferentemente cuerda de 70 metros

Vía mixta (cams de entre 0.1 a 1) o juego de stoppers

Tiene secuencias de slab bastante picantes junto con slab de grieta. Finaliza igual en slab más a favor con texturas 3D.

Long and sustained

1st pitch goes at 5.10, second 5.12 You could link up the whole thing climbing a 55 mts pitch with the crux right below the chains. The last part feels overhanged and exposed, pretty wild being up there.

Arranque vertical tecnico, segunda proteccion con cadena, descando al 100 para entrarle a la panza con un boulder regletero y final panoramico.

Armador.- Marciano

Armador.- Marciano

La grieta que esta enmedio de "Sautanz" y "Tortillas" se recomiendan cams y stoppers offset

Vía técnica con el crux marcado

This is the right-most route on the Dong Wall. Climb up under and alongside the big black stalactite. Lower-off anchors. Start on the white flake on the right side of the Dong Wall. Aim for the big black stalactite.

Third route as you arrive at the arch. Characterized by a slab start into overhanging tufa/stalactite climbing. A long dance between knee bars, sit downs, stand ups, jugs. So good!

This route does not see a lot of traffic, please provide info as you can.

This route is located at the end of the Tarahumara Pass on the great wall on the left side. The beginning of the route is identified by a small pillar of stones as a reference. The base was cleaned by removing loose rock and thorny plants.

Esta ruta se ubica al final del paso Tarahumara, en la gran pared de lado izquierdo. El inicio de la ruta la identificas por pequeño pilar de piedras como referencia. Se hizo limpieza de la base quitando roca suelta y plantas espinosas.

Pitch 1: 5.9+ (9 bolts + anchors)

Pitch 2: 5.12- (14 bolts + anchors)

Overview:

• 'Approach' pitches, 1-6: 5.11-, 11-, 9, 8, 8, 8
• 'Bivy' Ledge (complete with fire pit, stashed sleeping bag, pads, blankets, dice, backgammon and Yahtzee =)
• 'Middle' pitches, 7-15: 5.4, 12-/10+A0, 9, 10, 11, 11, 10+, 11, 12/10A0
• 'Lunch Ledge'
• 'Upper' pitches, 16-27: 5.10, 9, 9+,10, 11, 9, 10, 9+, 9, 8, 10, 7
• Descent: WALK OFF

Descent Beta... from the northern summit, walk the knife-edge ridge to the southern summit, turn right, roughly following the ridge-line (but staying slightly below on the southern side) to a notch. one rappel into the col, cross the col, and hike back up to the ridge-line to join the Toro trail at the cross.

NOTES: - this is not just a long 'sport' route, like "Timewave". It is a different beast, altogether, very alpine, adventure climbing. Major commitment, big exposure, traverses, some choss, etc... - you can bail reasonably well up through pitch 17. Rappelling from above that point will be complicated, at best, due to traverses. If you do pitch 18, you are pretty committed to going to the top.

• during the FA, it was decided that pitch 20 needs another bolt at the crux. Its a little runout and exposed. I will fix this next season, but didn´t want to hold back opening the route to the public. fair warning, however... we fashioned a stick-clip on the spot.
• I have done a LOT of cleaning, but until the route sees traffic, there will always be some loose rock. pitches 3 and 7 are particularly chossy (but easy).
• pitches 5 and 6 are not current rappelable, due to the traverse and lack of rings (you could of course leave biners or quicklinks). there is currently a fixed rope. it is in good condition as of this writing.
• there are still fixed lines on most of the harder sections, pitches 1-2, 8, 10-15. pitch 20 does NOT have a fixed line
• Linking... most pitches are between 25-30m. all can be rappeled with 60m. most can be linked. 14,15, and 18 you definitely want to pitch out. 19, 20, 21, use your judgement (we chose to pitch them out, but i think you could 20-21). 24-25 i linked, but drag was pretty rough at the top.
• the photo below was done early on. slight changes in the route were made, and the upper pitch numbers (which were estimated) turned out incorrect. i dont have an original photo to reproduce the image (feel free to send me one, Rancho Sendero is a good vantage point). its not perfect, but its close. it should give you an idea of the route, at least.

Feel free to contact can contact Eric Werfel at eric.werfel@gmail.com with questions.

Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors.

Starts at the far left of the ledge. You will see an aluminum plaque at the base in memory of Janosh Seidl. The first pitch trends out left into the crack.

70m rope is required to rap down.

Steep crack climbing and technical face climbing mulitpitch, following a natural line on the left side of the Mileski wall. The only route that goes to the top of the cliff above the entire Upper Sense of Religion, known as El Torero.

70m rope is mandatory. Can link at least pitches 3+4, and 13+14.

Please try it, and leave feedback! This is a new route, and use a trad mentality to test holds, have awareness of loose rock especially at the top, and be careful for those below. Have fun.

P1 5.11 Start on the ledge left of Permanent Vacation. Work left through lower-angle grey face to reach an obvious crack. Steep locks and stemming to the top. 32m, 9 bolts.

P2 5.12/+ Continue the pumpy crack for 5m to a rest, then 20m of continuous techy face climbing on excellent edges and pockets. 27m, 12 bolts.

P3 5.11 Another crack starts, with some pumpy moves until it eases up for fun, more sparsely bolted climbing. 34m, 13 bolts.

P4 5.7 Easy climbing over a bulge, then walk up low-angle slab. 35m, 5 bolts.

P5 5.10 Up from the ledge, works back right. 33m, 11 bolts

P6 5.11+ Multiple cruxes on great rock. Lots of balance moves, with three rest stances. 35m, 14 bolts

P7 5.11 Good crimping again, crux off the belay. 25m, 9 bolts.

P8 5.10+ Some long reaches with huecos and crimps. Goes through very pocketed volcanic-looking overhang feature. 30m, 14 bolts.

P9 5.10 Easy blocky start, then mantle a bulge. Finish with some delicate moves to belay. 30m, 11 bolts.

P10 5.10+ Fun face climb start off belay, then jugs to dihedral and a crimpy finish. One of our favorite pitches! 35m, 15 bolts.

P11 5.10 Balancy start, fun moves though deep pockets at overhang, trends to left. 30m, 13 bolts.

P12 5.10+ Not too difficult for first half, then some face climbing moves. 32m, 12 bolts.

P13 5.11 Fully engaging moves in a corner near the top, some loose rock to the left, pay attention. 35m, 14 bolts.

P14 5.10 To the top! Closely bolted in some sandy rock. The anchors go to a face just below the ridge. Can top out to the ridge with caution, whole top has loose rocks. 20m, 7 bolts.

70m rope.

Start "Sandra" then move right at the first palm tree to top-rope the smooth concave face.

Pasa por un techo

P1 20 mts. P2 25 mts.

un poco mas arriba de hansel y gretel, ruta de grieta delgada y desplomada enmedio del cañon

Esta es la ruta que está más metida en el cañoncito.

Lo Peor del Domingo es una ruta que se caracteriza por su constante nivel de dificultad de agarres chiquitos y pisaderas chiquitas.

via que esta en la arista al lado de la iguana, comienza con unos pasos largos en presas buenas, después se van haciendo presas mas pequeñas cada vez.

Inicio técnico y de balance para entrar inmediatamente al crux, que se encuentra en la segunda placa, esta parte es la que define el grado de la ruta. La parte superior es mas sencilla, tiene un nivel de dificultad de 10s

Very runout!!!!

Sin probar 2015

Sin probar por un panal 2015

Ruta con un desplome en la tercer placa (crux)

Is the second pitch of the 7!

A la izquierda de escalextric y en la otra cara del monolito.

A la izquierda de justicia divina y en la otra cara de la pared. Sin encadene, pasos abiertos.

inicia en inframundo, luego continua por codigo infantil pero en vez de ir a la reunion de esta, se va a otra reunion mas arriba y a la izquierda.

Armador.- Marciano

Termina en las mismas cadenas que Juanchinton

Vía mixta.

Pequeño desplome atrás de la guerra de los mundos, el principio parece queso tallado con sloppers medianos.

Mismo inicio que nuestra señora pero rodeas la piedra hacia la izquierda, caída poco expuesta.

Travesía que va hacia la derecha por un riel de sloppers

Misma piedra que rimas geométricas pero rodeando la piedra hacia la derecha, inicio comprimido.

Búlder muy estético, y geométrico, la caída es medio mala, tiene dos variantes para el final, un poco más dificil salir por la izquierda.

Empieza en un lateral de derecha y un sloper de izquierda, se vale pisar la roca de abajo.

Comienza sentado dentro del techo. Par de movimientos por el riel para ir a la izquierda por el hueco. Salida por el filo.

Highball

Pequeño off width desplomado. Comienzas con puño derecho empotrado bien adentro de la grieta para poder meter la parte izquierda del cuerpo a la grieta y gusanear hacia arriba. Difícil de graduar en escala de boulder, pero se puede decir que es como el crux de un 5.10b de off-width

Tiene la misma salida que el Crazy, pero va en línea recta desde abajo.

Inicias de pie a la izquierda de la repisa, te montas a la repisa y luego sales al topout con un mantle.

Empiezas en la misma grieta que "Por la de cuota" pero te has hacia la izquierda.

Los dos primeros agarres están altos, lo difícil es montarte sobre el slab y empezar a subir los primeros pasos.

Versión corta de "El Rey Liquen".