Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Trad | |||||||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
19 | ★★ Koruba | 14m, 3 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Fri 7th Aug 2009 | ||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster - with Grant Johnston | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Jul 2018 | ||||
Better overall than Frenz, and the bottom moves are harder especially if you stop to get a high piece in before committing.
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 | ★ Zig | 14m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Mon 6th Jan 2020 | |||||
20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sun 1st Nov 2020 | ||||
24 | ★★ Jabbar the Hutt | 20m, 2 | Ti Point | ★ Good | Sun 7th Mar 2021 | ||||
Went up it after Neil had gotten some chalk on the holds and cleaned up the top. Cool crux sequence on some decent holds with the slopey top holds giving it some sting in the tail. We both thought it felt more like 24.
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21 20 | ★ His | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Nov 2021 | ||||
Face variation. Using the left wall to stem seems 19/20 (especially if you're tall). Great climb going either way.
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster - with Alex Popinga | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | |||||
First mixed route placing gear
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17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Fri 26th Nov 2021 | |||||
18 | ★ Zig | 14m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sun 26th Jun 2022 | |||||
18 | ★ Crackerjack | 12m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Fri 15th Dec 2023 | ||||
17 | ★ Atomic Rooster | 10m, 2 | Maungarei Springs | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
18 | ★ Dong | 7m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | ||||
Good technical moves from pockets to a nice horizontal break. Beware the rusty bolt and throw a friend in the break,
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18 | ★ Dong | 7m, 1 | Mt. Eden Quarry | Wed 21st Jan 2015 | |||||
14 16 | Serenity | 13m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | Average | Wed 3rd Jun 2020 | ||||
17 | ★ Fremantle - with Vijay | 11m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Mar 2023 | ||||
Big rock on top of ledge half way up is loose. Take care.
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16 | Serenity | 13m, 1 | Maungarei Springs | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | |||||
14 | ★ Elementary - with Angela Hewlett | 10m | Ti Point | Sun 18th Nov 2018 | |||||
Quick efficient placing of gear, most unlike me.
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14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm | 9m | Maungarei Springs | Average | Tue 20th Jul 2021 | ||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Jul 2021 | ||||
15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
A bit run out at the top as said in the description, but the holds are good.
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17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment - with Alex Popinga | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sat 20th Nov 2021 | ||||
First trad climb
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14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm - with Alex Popinga | 9m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Dec 2021 | ||||
14 | ★ Elementary | 10m | Ti Point | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
16 |
Century Plus Crack
1
14
12
2
16
15
| 27m | Ti Point | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
14 | ★ Elementary | 10m | Ti Point | Fri 1st Jan 2010 | |||||
15 | Semi-Rad Trad Dad | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | |||||
15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | |||||
14 | ★ Riding the Sandworm | 9m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Mon 5th Jun 2023 | ||||
17 | ★ The Frenz Experiment - with AJ Lee, Clément | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Nov 2023 | ||||
15 | ★ Assagai | 12m | Maungarei Springs | Mon 12th Feb 2024 | |||||
18 | ★ Ridin' the 868 - with Andy Baird | 15m | Ti Point | Sat 17th Feb 2024 | |||||
16 | ★★ Treebeard | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 27th Aug 2005 | ||||
Fun hand jamming up one of the longest lines at the 'Short Side'.
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19 18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 21st Mar 2006 | ||||
Great climb
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21 | ★★ Thimblerigger | 12m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Mon 26th Nov 2012 | ||||
20 | ★ Brain Damage - with Stephen Bailey | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Wed 22nd Oct 2014 | ||||
Perhaps a bit harder since the jug fell off some years back. Helps to be not too short - watch out on the bitey sharp hold that gets you through the top crux. Gonna be a fairly nervy lead I think.
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17 | ★ Graveyard Groove | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Tue 26th Jan 1999 | ||||
21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Wed 26th Aug 2015 | ||||
21 | ★★ Revenge Of The Lawn | 14m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 26th Jan 2002 | ||||
18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2005 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Wed 26th Jan 2005 | ||||
20 19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Dec 2016 | ||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Dec 2015 | ||||
Nice finger cracks
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15 | ★ Gog | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
15 | ★ Magog | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
16 | Parallel Cracks | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
16 | ★ Geoff's Dilemma | 7m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
17 | ★ Triblet | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★ Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
13 | Short Crack | 8m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
19 | ★ Boggart | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
16 | ★★ Treebeard | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
15 | Wattle Tree Groove | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Average | Sat 31st Dec 2016 | ||||
21 | ★★ Green Groove - with Andy Baird | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★ Very Good | Mon 17th Apr 2017 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - with Andy Baird | 11m | Mt. Eden Quarry | ★★★ Classic | Mon 17th Apr 2017 | ||||
16 | ★ Go Up The Waterfall - with John Pitcairn | 15m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Sep 2017 | ||||
Worth doing!
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15 | ★★ Diabolo | 20m | Ti Point | ★ Good | Sat 23rd Dec 2017 | ||||
15 | Hjar - with Andy Baird | 20m | Ti Point | Average | Sun 14th Jan 2018 | ||||
14 | ★★ The Bounding Main (The Bounding Man) - with Angela Hewlett | 15m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Nov 2018 | ||||
Interesting reading the route description, bears little resemblance to the climb. Saying that, hugely enjoyable, managed to use 2 chockstone runners, a tree root but sadly failed with a hex. Quick efficient placing of gear, again most unlike me. Took bloody ages to remove top chockstone runner, got jammed right in the crack.
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16 | ★★ Chad - with Renata | 20m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | ||||
Really nice crack climbing! We used Camalots to #4
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17 | ★★ Burning Deck - with Renata | 25m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Mar 2019 | ||||
Another good one!
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15 | ★ Eric Forgot his Draws | 11m | Maungarei Springs | Sat 13th Apr 2019 | |||||
16 | Friday Night Groove | 11m | Maungarei Springs | Thu 31st Oct 2019 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
24 | ★★ The Potarta | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Wed 1st Jan 2020 | |||||
21 | ★★ Mihna | 20m | Ti Point | Wed 25th Sep 2019 | |||||
15 | Hjar | 20m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Mar 2020 | ||||
19 21 | ★★ Mihna | 20m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th May 2020 | ||||
What Shaun mistakenly read from the guide as a nice 15 warm up was this haha. Wasn't feeling particularly inspired for trad but seeing Shaun climb this convinced me too. What a way to warm up to leading again after 2 months away from rock! Lots of flaring cracks so offset nuts were very useful. Seems easy for the grade but may have gone slightly off route, hard to tell. A small offset cam would have been nice for the crux! Didn't use any of the bolts.
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18 | ★ Midday Lightning | 12m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 10th Jun 2020 | ||||
2nd favorite trad route at the Springs.
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18 | ★★ Lobster | 20m | Ti Point | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Sep 2020 | ||||
Superb route. A must climb at TP. Still easier than 'Chad'!
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18 16 | ★★ Chad | 20m | Ti Point | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | ||||
What an experience! I finally got on this at around high tide when the combo of waves crashn and strong wind were threatening to drench my belayer (thanks Donovan) and added some motivation for me to get off the ground quickly! Not sure on the grade.. I'm not that good at jamming (as I suspect the majority who try lead this, why doesn't NZ have more cracks!) but getting better so tricky to know, not that it really matters. The sandbag of 16 feels kinda appropriate. Could have easily lost the flash as my arms got a bit pumped around mid height but I managed to keep it together, stoked on that.
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15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Oct 2020 | ||||
13 | ★★ Hotch Potch | 20m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Oct 2020 | ||||
Sparse holds in the second half make chimney moves a necessity. Exiting towards the sea brings you straight to the anchor for The Angel of Calcutta for an easy lower off.
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15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Tue 3rd Nov 2020 | |||||
15 | Don’t Shoot the Takahē | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Tue 17th Nov 2020 | |||||
24 | ★★ Desolation Angel | 10m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
24 | Effort, Money And Time | 13m | Mt. Eden Quarry | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
21 | ★★ Mihna | 20m | Ti Point | ★ Good | Sun 11th Apr 2021 | ||||
15 | Another Rock Bites the Dust | 11m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Sat 26th Jun 2021 | ||||
My first trad lead, also my first time climbing mountaineering boots on. I got to do this as part of some AURAC mountaineering training.
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15 | ★ Zag | 11m | Maungarei Springs | Thu 1st Jul 2021 | |||||
15 | Another Rock Bites the Dust | 11m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 30th Jun 2021 | ||||
15 | ★★ Diabolo | 20m | Ti Point | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | ||||
18 16 | ★★ Chad | 20m | Ti Point | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
First real crack climb, actually jamming the entire route. Absolutely awesome experience.
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15 | ★ I Do My Cleaning in the Rain | 14m | Maungarei Springs | Average | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
My second trad lead.
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18 16 | ★★ Chad | 20m | Ti Point | ★★★ Classic | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
18 | ★★ Lobster | 20m | Ti Point | ★ Good | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | ||||
23 | ★ Tool | 11m | Maungarei Springs | Average | Fri 19th Nov 2021 | ||||
17 | ★ Ogopogo Strikes Back - with Alex Popinga | 9m | Maungarei Springs | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Dec 2021 | ||||
19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Dec 2021 | ||||
18 | ★ Midday Lightning | 12m | Maungarei Springs | ★ Good | Wed 9th Feb 2022 | ||||
15 | ★ J P Superdog | 10m | Ti Point | Sat 7th May 2022 | |||||
13 | ★★ Drip Dry | 20m | Ti Point | Fri 23rd Sep 2022 | |||||
15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Tue 20th Dec 2022 | |||||
15 | ★ My Foot Slipped | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Sun 25th Dec 2022 | |||||
16 | Pillock | 20m | Ti Point | Mon 4th Jan 2021 | |||||
19 | ★★ Peanut Butter Jam | 10m | Maungarei Springs | Sun 25th Dec 2022 | |||||
10 | ★ Chimney Climb | 25m | Ti Point | Sat 10th Dec 2022 |