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South Face Rock climbing 5 routes in sector

Grade context: AU
Ascents: 18

16 18 20

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Description

The Southern Face of the Fortress

Access issues inherited from Paynes Ford

Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.

Approach

<5 min

Turn left after the track until you find the pocket-heavy face with a tree running up it

Ethic inherited from Paynes Ford

Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.

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Routes

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FA: Willie Butler, 1997

2bolts + chain.

FA: The Toad, 2002

This route doesn't appear to have its own chains, topping out requires either going left and using the chains of "Bear Necessities" or right to use the top out of "No Whack Only Dangle"

FA: Willie Butler (AKA The Toad), 1997