Routes in Kawakawa Bay for selected grade

Go up the sightly dirty vegetative crack right of Fuggin Jet Skis.

The obvious open book corner that finishes at Mowgli's anchor. Great gear most of the way. Sling the tree at the top.

Fun slab arete climb. Similar to Rohan's Arete, but easier. Starts right of the arete, by the tree.

Hope you like mantles.

The obvious face crack. Less experienced trad climbers should consider a top rope lap (some of the placements can be tricky).

Gear Beta: Large cams for the start. Blue and green Alien cams for the mailbox slot to protect the exit moves, otherwise a medium nut can be creatively used.

The obvious hand crack, take a few #3 cams. Probably quite a hard scary lead if you can't jam.

A bit of everything. Bridge and layback start, hand jam middle, face climb top. Take some small gear for the top.

Up the blunt arete of the right of the boulder.

Left most line of bolts on the main wall. Low angle slab, start up big holds and trending slightly left following the bolts, small traverse left then back right and up to the anchors on the face. DBR anchor.

The overhanging wide crack/corner. Rappel / lower as far right as you can to avoid your rope getting caught in the crack.

Go up the boulder start or use the hand jam on your right to gain the rest of the climb. Continue up and right through the slight overhang, pulling over onto the easy slab finish.

Pronounced KOO-kee-lee-KOO. Climb the wide flaring chimney/crack left of Jug Addiction, continue through the cave (runout) and a steeper layback finish. Tree or gear belay, and easy walk up to the bottom of Sex Panther.

Start as for Kykkeliky, but escape right at the 4th bolt of Jug Addiction.

Starts left of the arete, moving up the slab. There is an easier grade 16 RH start around the arete with 3 independent bolts.

"A nice spot". Up scooped holds to the arete and face. Step left under the flax bush at the top to reach the chains.

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

Left-most chimney with no anchor at the top. Traverse over from the anchor of P3 of Reggae Shark. Might be a touch dirty

Start as for Dont Hurt My Kowhai, traversing right after the anchor above the kowhai, then up the crack and flake. An intimidating lead for the grade, take at least doubles of #2 and #3 cams, more (and/or hexes) if you have them. Be very wary of loose rock at all times, and don't attempt this if there is anyone down around the track or the base of Predator below (ie most of the time).

Just around the arete from Dirty Dancing. A hardish start leads to the slab above.

A fun beginner climb suited for all ages, shares the anchor of Mariposa

Traverse diagonally left behind the trees, then up through the disconnected crack system then tend right to reach a reasonably stout manuka tree (possible belay). If rope drag has been well-managed it is possible to continue up to the Elephant Hunting chains to belay, and possibly up the final short pitch of that to rap anchors.

Right of Nogasang sharing its first 2 bolts. Stay left of the line of bolts on The Nose

An offwidth start leads to a left facing corner and layback offwidth finish, all on excellent rock. Take your big cams.

10 bolts. Starts at the top of the first pitch of Ezy Ryder. From the mid-way belay, climb past the first 3 ring bolts then head up and left onto the hangers. Alpine style rock climbing. Dan Head (solo) ; Mar 2011.

Start as for Pimps Don't Cry, finishing at the anchor of Make My Blue Rat Dance. Might have been retrobolted by now.

Starts at the top of the Rumpus Room at the chockstone. Continue upwards through the cave into the beyond.

Starts in the corner just before the first board walk. Head up the crack and exit left to a DBB

Scramble up the small gully to access this climb. Head up the crack and right-facing corner, ignoring the retro-bolts

Starting from the low alcove, bridge the corner and crack and pull over the small roof (crux). Continue more easily up the crack with a wall at left and over a ledge then up to reach the bolted belay. Abseil off and move left to reach the Sunset Ledge anchor (don't miss it).

Arange a belay in the long vertical hand crack and climb straight to the top. The friction crux at top is not made easier by the abundant lichen.

A tad dirty, accessible via a boat. Head up the widening crack to the chimney, then head left to the ledge, then upwards to the trees.

Mantle start, then head into a hand crack to the top.

The line of least resistance between New Wave Wall and Californication. Matt doesn't even remember this climb even though he got the first ascent

Climbs up big holds in the corner and through the roof. Dirty climbing above the roof leads to a trad belay. Continue as for Drunken Monkey or Shoulder Charge.