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The Chasm

Seasonality

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Summary

Stays dry in the rain. Better quality rock on the right side of the crag.

Approach

5 minutes up usually wet creek beds. After exiting Homer tunnel, en route to Milford Sound there is a sign for "The Chasm 400m". 50m before this sign there is a small bridge. It is best to drive to the chasm car park, and visit it if you haven't. Then drive the 50m back towards the tunnel and pull of just after the small bridge on the left. One track on the Milford side of the bridge leads to the left wall. The other on the Homer side leads to the right crag. It is possible to walk between right and left sides along the base.

Ethic

The routes used to be primarily mixed protection. There are still some excellent trad routes, however many seem to now be fully bolted. Via ferrata was installed in 2012 to provide quick access to the left side of the wall. Once on the wall, it is rare to come to ground until the end of the day. However, don't pee up there as it never washes away.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Dave Blair & Steve Carr, 1997

1 22 18m
2 19 18m

FA: Steve Henry & Dave Roberts, 1994

FA: Anton Vestberg, 2014

Start on the ring bolt anchor between Pro Rata and Dread Zone. Can be accessed from the ledge by rapping down to the Dread Zone anchor and then traversing across left.

The pitch is now fully bolted with fun, flowy moves.

FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2004

1 18 15m
2 21 30m
3 24 15m

FA: Paul Rogers & Polly Stupples, 1994

1 18 15m
2 22 26m

Start as for Dread Zone, about 8m left of access rungs at ground level for pitch 1. Alternatively to access pitch 2, abseil 28m from the left end of the Chill-Out ledge, angling left to anchors below obvious left trending undercling flake. Pitch 2 starts here, goes up dike steps to flake, moves left across under clings then up and trends back right passing 2 bolts to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge.

FA: Murray Ball & Paul Rogers, 2003

Slab left of rungs.

FA: Paul Rogers, 2014

Up the rungs which are 3m left of the battered tree leaning against cliff at top of access one. Quite steep and slippery when wet. Lead to DBB.

Set: Paul Rogers, 2012

1 17 30m
2 18 15m
3 20 25m
4 24 12m

P1: Bolts, wires, CD’s to #3.5. Climb the tree past three bolts and into the left-facing corner, or if wet use rungs. Follow the corner system then trend left on a black slab and then up towards a prominent nose. Underclings lead across the slab and underneath the nose to a bolt belay.

P2: The corner above, move right, then up past two bolts to a ledge. A right facing corner leads to the Chill-Out Ledge.

P3: From left-hand belay on Chill-Out Ledge, traverse left past three bolts, moving up at the third to a shallow corner. Continue on wires ‘til another bolt indicates an exposed traverse left to belay.

P4: The bolted wall above and left, good holds lead eventually lead to some tough slopers. Belay out left.

FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993

From the top of the access rungs head left, but don't continue on undercling as for JTB. Instead head up past up a seam to the left end of the Chill-Out ledge. Several bulges and a steep finish. Fully bolted as of 2016.

FA: Kate Sinclair, 2004

Left and up from the top of the rungs. Shares the first 2 bolts of JTB.

From top of the rungs climb rightwards to the CN belay.

FA: Paul Rogers, 2005

1 16 20m
2 18 16m
3 28 18m

FA: Paul Rogers, 2003

1 17
2 20

FA: Troy Mattingley, 2005

FA: Claudia Grey, 2012

FA: Anton Vestberg, 2014

1 20 12m
2 28 12m

No-hands rest halfway. Can be climbed in 1 pitch.

FA: Mayan Gobat-Smith, 2006

Warning Fixed Gear: Sticky fixed draws

Left-facing corner and prow above the belay. This route has it all, pockets underclings, lay-backing and crimps! Now fully bolted, with permadraws.

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

Set: Ivan Vostinar

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2005

FA: Chris Plant, 1994

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2011

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2006

FA: Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2013

FA: 2006

1 23 18m
2 25 12m

FA: Luke Bardsley & Paul Rogers, 1993

FA: Jon Sedon, 2006

FA: Paul Rogers, 2002

FA: Mark Sedon, 2002

1 22 18m
2 23 15m

FA: Paul Rogers & Hugh Barnard, 1993

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

FA: Paul Rogers & Will McQueen, 2002

FA: Jon Sedon, 2007

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2003

FA: Paul Rogers & Jon Sedon, 2002

FA: Kevin Nickolas & Paul Rogers, 1995

FA: Derek Thatcher, 2010

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

1 19 15m
2 22 19m

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

FA: Owen Davies, 2012

FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2004

FA: Paul Rogers & Steve Walker, 1993

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2004

FA: Hugh Barnard & Paul Rogers, 1993

FA: Sally Carter & Aaron Ford, 2004

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Wed 26 Apr
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