Routes as trad in Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island

Up the easy groove and then left at the top across to the anchors.

Protection is a bit poor, might end up being bolted.

P1: (12m Gear) Climb the corner below the tree and then another corner to the base of the pillar. Trad anchor. P2: (8m, 2 bolts) Climb the chimney on the left side of the pillar. Same belay as Sidewinder.

Up the blunt arete right of 'Two Tools, One Tool, No Tools'

The most direct version of Snatchbender. Instead of stepping left, pull over the bulge and up onto the block.

Climb the slabby rib, moving right from the ledge at 5m . Up for 3m till you can step back left onto the rib, and on to the top. Belay off blocks at the top or continue up the gully to anchors.

The crack through the pea pod. Belay as for Man From Atlantis.

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with Over the Mountain.

Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack.

Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top. DBC.

Start in the steep finger crack directly above the fence. Continue climbing straight up, keeping left of the large gorse bush, then traverse right at the top to the anchor set up by Christian Gamst.

Climb the groove and crack to a ledge on the right, then move left to another ledge. Looks easier than it is.

Starts from the high boulder ledge up the right leaning crack to the right of 'Puffin'. Place some smallish cams and then sling the pinnacle before heading up the crack. Exit the crack and traverse left to the anchors of Puffin. First climbed after a big night drinking Roaring Meg.

The strenuous left-leaning layback crack. The start is somewhat easier than it once was with the raising of the ground level, but beware the slippery footholds.

Straight up the crack in the middle of the face.

Follows the trench staircase that trends upwards through the wall. DBB of Chocolate Coated Mammaries can be used as an anchor for two pitches.

A superb route up the right-hand crack of the flake. Protection is good round the flake then one bolt in the face. Belay at the chains or keep going to the higher belay of Tunnel Web Spider. (Pro CD, Wires)

One compulsory smear to glory. Shame it isn't longer. Place good gear, there have been accidents, though the new bouncy rubber base is rather better than the old grass with hidden rocks.

To the right of 'Birds Can’t Fly on One Wing' climb the obvious line up the centre of the block.

The chimney finishing at a large tree.

A great easy trad line. Re-cleaned in 2020 by Alice Heath. The number 5 cam is handy at the top.

Climb the twin cracks to a chock stone at half height, finish up left to good ledges.

Grade 17 variation: climb the right-hand crack direct.

Pitch 1 (15) Climb the crack and move left to the arete, continuing past 5 bolts and a wire placement, finish up the top crack of The Sweet and the Savage. (27m, 5b)

Pitch 2: (15) Right and up past 3 bolts to the belay. (5m, 3b)

Pitch 1 (21): Up overlap to the slab, then left and follow a crack though steep rock between the left arete and the pink wall. Sustained through the top half (crux). (20m)

Pitch 2 (14): up and left following the easy splitter hand crack. (20m)

Pitch 3 (18): Build an anchor 3m left of the Jugzilla anchors, climb up to reach a seam and follow that diagonally right 5m, mantle the spike and head straight up. Exposed but well protected. (12m)

A nice climb with excellent protection. Up the crack/chimney , shares anchors with Bite Me Gently.

Climb the broken wall to a comfy ledge, then bridge up the groove. Move left at the horizontal break into the adjacent groove (crux), up to ledges and left to the anchors.

Bridge up the middle between Gog and Magog with an exciting top-out through the overhang. Don't wimp out left or right.

Good jamming, well protected.

The right-facing corner with a hand/fist crack and tight dihedral around the corner from Rohan's Little Sister. Take small cams for the top. Has an independent anchor.

The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.

Follow the obvious crack in the dihedral. The difficulty increases where the angle changes.

Climb the wall between Bad Behaviour and Bandersnatch, then right to the thin crack and hole. Move left after the 4th bolt and pull through the bulge, finishing up Bad Behaviour. Retrobolted.

To the right of the gully, the steep wall with prominent crack systems. Follow a leftward slanting crack up through a bulging blocky section stepping right when the crack runs out and then to the top.

Climb the right-facing corner to the ledge. A hold fell off some time ago so the route may be a tad harder than it once was.

Climb the crack to the overhang at 3m. Pull through and into the upper crack, stepping at the top to easier ground.

The crack at the end of the buttress nearest the sea. Climb using the holds on the right to DBC belay.

Follow right leaning crack. Rock a bit friable.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

Strong and balancy through the crux sequence, with a decent low wire then two very dubious old pitons as protection. There is more gear available though.

NOT the bolts, that is Wild Country Express. The corner crack on trad gear. Be careful of the rock at top.

Up the corner above the ledge right of Orangutang to gain the higher ledge on the right (crux). Continue direct up the wide groove and bulge above. Protection is there but may be difficult to place.

Climb the face just left of the arête. Technical face climbing on small crimps, arête is out. Place a cam in the horizontal break before the anchors for added protection at the final move.

Climb up to the ledge, move right onto the face and go up through the gorse bush. Climb the headwall on the right using the top two bolts of the project or do it all trad with small gear in the crack.

Starts in the open book corner to the left of 'Slap and Tickle', climb easily up large blocks to a widening crack. Layback off an easy hand jam and climb the short crack to top out on a large sloping ledge with flax bushes.

Set up a TRAD belay in the cracks on either side of the solid/stable massive wedged boulder. The money is the next crack (on the RHS of the ledge) which starts off as hands then fist then a short offwidth crux. Worth having a BD 2,3 and 4 cam.

Once the crack has been exited climb easily trending right below the large “diving board” roof. Once below the diving board step right and traverse for 1 metre on an exposed ledge system (above the slab of 'Slap and Tickle').

Finally, high step up over the bulging boulders and scramble carefully to the anchors of “slap and tickle” There is a small pine tree below the anchors which can be slung for those feeling a little faint hearted. Helmet recommended.

The fist crack and corner starting down below Dog's Breakfast , finishing at a DBC anchor on top of the stacked blocks (or continue up Dog's Breakfast).

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

3 bolts on first pitch, none on second.

The small corner groove at the far right hand end of the crag . Climb the slab & arete then pull over the small overhanging section onto the slab above. From this point climb the twin crack’s in the head wall and belay further back in the bush, DRB belay. (Pro CD, Wires, Hex)

hard back and footing to layback and anchor off trees. Good fun 15.

The obvious open book corner that finishes at Mowgli's anchor. Great gear most of the way. Sling the tree at the top.

Twin cracks, if only using the left crack is a grade 17.

Left most route of the crag following the obvious crack.

Start slightly right of the shrub in the middle of the waterfall face under the guano, work your way straight up on small edges to the bulge, then proceed directly up.

First few meters offers no opportunity for protection, but provides enjoyable and delicate climbing. Placements improve as you get higher, and the big haul over the overhang and bulge is well protected, leading to easy climbing above, topping out on DBA. Look out for the hidden jugs and edges on top of the bulge.

Unsure if this variation has been climbed before, but thought I'd share.

Straight up the shallow groove past the bolt to ledges at the top.

P1: (18) Start right of Guardians Of The Galaxy up the finger crack, past a 2 bolt anchor and up the arete passing another anchor. (11 bolts)

P2: (17) Climb upwards left of the pillar, then through a cracks system that goes into the roof, finishing on the rightward ledge. (3 bolts)

start right of the main buttress, then traverse left and get established on the buttress (crux) then follow the finger crack up to the DBB with hangers.

Start as for Smear Tactics, but at the third bolt continue up and right, following the bolts up the arete. Gear placements are required to manage runouts.

Climb up the steep right facing corner then through the small over hang, crux. Continue up the crack and groove system above, then break out left higher up onto the head wall (bolt) and the DRB belay of Where to From Here. The gear placements are a little difficult to arrange but sound.

Start just right of the large boulder beneath the arch, then traverse right onto the face and climb the wide crack using traditional protection. At mid height, veer slightly left past two bolts to the top of the cliff, then climb onto the boulder to the anchor of route ‘The Angry Sea and the Sky’.

To the right of Shenzy, ascend the offwidth crack through the widening bulges. Requires big gear and exit the crack early on the right to use the belay of "Tashi Deli"

The obvious crack on the left side of the boulder. It has been done as a highball (V3) if you dare...

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

From the end of the wall right of Dancing on Rainbows, climb up and generally left to the same anchors. Gear in pockets.

Climb to the ledge then up the thin crack and over the bulge on the large flake. Originally 24, downgraded to 22 fairly recently for some reason.

Tiny protection, dyno to match, go for it!

Climb the left-facing corner. Originally continued up the corner crack and through what is now very overgrown territory, nowadays just climbed to the ledge on the right. Generally climbed to gain access to the anchors for the next two routes.

The obvious crack next to 'Streetwise'. Starts narrow and progressively widens to Camalot #4-5 at the top. First ascent uncertain, but sometime in the 1990s, and possibly Bryce.

Swing into the drill hole from the right, then up the crack and horizontal breaks. Usually very dirty at the top. Grade 23 if climbed direct, without the use of Gamgee's Groove ledge. There was a grade 21 direct using the thin crack on the left, but that now has a pipe covered with concrete down it.

Climb/jam the left crack, continue past trees to large block, exit left to Mellow Yellow anchors

Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His".

Climb the obvious corner straight up and over the bulge. This is the crux but it is well protected with fail safe bomber wire placements. Continue up the groove above. Move left near the top and finish on the large belay ledge. DBC belay and the protection is good if you take your time arranging it. [Pro: CD, W]

Climb the obvious groove/crack. Wide gear or fiddly gear, your choice

Corner right of LnR. Finish over triangular block. Double bolt anchor.

Begin in the crack to the right (as for Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.

Starts in the scoop under the big overhang, going up and following the vague line of weakness to the top of the wall.

Trad belay off the big horn or go to the bolted anchors 5m left or right of the top.

The twin cracks, finishing left to the Peach Teats anchor.

P1: The slab 10m right of LWOHS with 3 bolts and a crack for gear. P2: Up the thin crack and stay left of the roof. Finish up thin crack.

Jam and layback the fist-to-offwidth crack to reach a large ledge, then jam the corner hand crack to a DBC belay.

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

A sick route, start on the left of the slab, go up and slightly right, then exit through the awesome fist sized roof crack. DBB under a weird boulder.

Double Bolt Belay.

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

Climb an easy ramp leftwards then up a flake, traverse right along a ledge to reach the obvious chimney. Sling the chockstone and go for it. Exit left at the top.

The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face.