Routes as trad in Waitaha / Canterbury

Trad

Trad

On the upper part of the cliff at the left-hand side are three short climbs that all feature very loose blocks, and have little to recommend them...

Climb up the wall for 5m, or start in a loose corner to the right and reach across left to place gear; then move across, taking care to avoid pulling the wobbly blocks off. Step up and jam in the corner. Avoid the blocks at the top by moving left, and anchor at a boulder about five metres back.

The twin cracks in a corner. Up an easy corner to the bulge (crux) and loose blocks, then up the cracks.

The first gully, from the left that goes the full height of the crag. Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step left and climb the crack over a large block (crux, easy but commiting), and finish up the corner. You can use Geoid anchor.

Direct version goes at grade 20.

Climb the wall left of the arete past a bolt, then follow the crack.

Prominent left facing corner, start on the left wall then move up through the chimney before moving back to the left wall again. Exit either to the right or over the top blocks. There is an abseil station to the left dropping down onto the platform

Climb the technical face on small edges past 2 bolts to a steep finish. Sustained!

Start as for TUH with a cam placement and angle across and rightwards of a small triangular roof. Pass two bolts on their left to gain easier ground, with a run-out to gear. From the blocks finish up overhanging leaning hand crack to right.

The fantastic crack line. Enjoy the surprise mantel to finish.