Routes as trad in Waitaha / Canterbury

Great climb

The fantastic crack line. Enjoy the surprise mantel to finish.

A climb with mixed personalities! First bolt is high! Lots of nuts needed for top.

Climb the technical face on small edges past 2 bolts to a steep finish. Sustained!

Just right of Fowl Play, starting from ledge and tending rightwards.

Starts in the little alcove behind the tree. Move onto ledge then up the corner.

Face crack with very good pro. There is an optional bolt after the ledge but quite useless as the two last meters are just a walk to the anchor.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

climb up to underclings and large feet under the overlap feature, clipping a high first bolt and then pulling up to good gear in a horizontal. Follow the flake feature up and right with obvious but sparse gear easily to double modern anchor

Mt Somers classic.

Climb a prominent corner, passing a roof halfway up to the right. Bolted crux.

Trad +bolts

This fetching shallow crack makes for absorbing climbing and the fiddly pro keeps you on your toes.

Another My Horrible classic. The crux has been the scene of many a lead fall, as leaders stall halfway through the bulging layback, wondering whether to stop and try and place more gear, or just push on through.

Earthquake damage at the top of the climb.

The groove right of Orange Roughy.

Prominent left facing corner, start on the left wall then move up through the chimney before moving back to the left wall again. Exit either to the right or over the top blocks. There is an abseil station to the left dropping down onto the platform

Boulder up the juggy wall & faint corner to ledge and corner crack. Crux near the top. Move left at the top. Double bolt belay. Good pro.

Mixed climb. Share the first high bolt of BBB. Stay left of the bolt, then clip the second bolt and place a small wire before running out for the top anchor.

Fierce crimping up the face of the overhanging pillar shaped wall. Small incuts past the first bolt to a rest out left and a trad placement, then up three more bolts on the headwall.

A crack climb running up the face beside the groove that Sunday School Felching follows.

Left facing corner at the edge of a small cave.

The original (and best) start is on the slab with thin crack that rises to the right, a great balancy move. Layback and jam into left facing corner with hand crack, then step right into a beautiful open book corner with killer hand jams and bridging. Alternative start is 2m to the right up the corner of Turn to Gold.

Steep crack starting from a ledge.

Another superb slab climb. Start in corner, or go direct over first bolt. Five bolts (after retrobolting) and some mid sized cams for up top.

A long consistent crack, that takes wires and small cams. Most clip the 1st bolt on dogfish before moving right on the crack.

Start up the crack to the left of the The Shoveller, then take the left hand flaring crack above that. Good protection.

Great climbing at the grade. Start up the left facing corner and into the large pea pod. Bridge your way up and out of it until you hit some welcome jugs. Finish easy up the left leaning crack.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Up the corner.

Trad line 1 metre left of Fowl Play

Earthquake damage at the top of the climb.

A squeeze route between 'Rongbuk' and 'Peggy Peggy Phew' using their bolts as protection and traditional gear.

Crack left of 'A dull Thump'

Start in gully just left of DP, then traverse right and up next to yellow lichen.

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Pitch 1 25m grade 15 pitch 2 25m grade 19 pitch 3 14m grade 14 pitch 4 25m grade 20

Destroyed during the earthquakes.

Yet another Mt Horrible classic, and many locals fav climb here. A bit of everything in its short length; straight up the solid finger crack, move right into the bomber hand crack, arrange gear and headspace, and climb left into the overhanging crux buldge. Warm down on the off-width crack to finish.

Hard start up thin edges leads you to a superb hand crack and an offwidth. Well worth it.

Past two bolts and up a thin crack.

A great route up the centre of the west-facing wall of Steeple Peak. Rock quality improves with height, culminating in 2-3 pitches worth of beautiful ridgeline. 300m height gain, Mount Cook grade 3+, grade 14 rock, usually done in 6-8 pitches

Obvious corner with crack system. One of the best of the early lines, with good gear options

Wild indeed. The warm up is a wide bridge with hand jams up into the cave thing (watch your head), then hand jam your way out of it (or layback the crack if you can't jam). Move right up to wide crack and up to finish. Just note the entire right side of Wildman is a giant pillar thats not sitting on very much.

Starts at DBB on Half Height Ledge on the right side of The Keep. Climb slab up to the left of the roof and then traverse right back above the roof passing 3 bolts until you reach the farthest right line of bolts. Climb up clipping 3 more bolts and then wires or cams to top out at DBB on a ledge.