Nodes in Buck Rock

Fantastic crag with easy access from Hamilton, Tauranga and Auckland. Good rock a mix of single and multipitch routes (up to 80m). Spectacular views over the Waikato and Kaimai Ranges.

The main cliff area with the most routes. The path leads up to 100 Bucks and Pass the Buck and the routes are both to the right and left. Some good link up options exist by mixing up belay points and different climbs. There is quite a bit of loose rock around so helmets and caution advised. The crag is steep so take care on accessing routes and belaying.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

P1: Up the left face of the corner at the far left of the crag. To a small ledge.

P2: Head left around a small arete, up through interesting climbing to a large ledge.

Can be climbed as one long pitch, but be sure to minimise rope drag. Abseil down the line of Bolt Clinic or JAFA Cake.

P1: As for Midnight Lichening.

P2: From the anchor, step right and climb up the groove. Exciting moves before easing off for the middle section. Overhang to finish with fun, powerful moves (or move right for an easier variation). Shares an anchor with P2 of Bolt Clinic.

P3: Trad with plenty of greenery.

The first two pitches can be climbed as one, but be careful of rope drag.

Decent: From top of P2, easiest to rap straight down the line of Bolt Clinic.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

P1: Starts a few meters right of JAFA Cake. The first half wanders from right to left and back again, mostly on crimps with a few jugs and side pulls. It then eases off for the last few bolts to the anchor.

P2: Shares the last 3 bolts and anchor with JAFA Cake.

P1: Start on the Rata covered ledge, moving leftwards. Sustained climbing that weaves left and right. Anchor is just to the left of a ledge (where the anchor of Power of Persuasion is located).

P2: Up left through a groove, then heads to the right, crossing the line of Power of Persuasion (be careful to stay on the correct line) then up through a corner to the right of the small roof system. The anchor is just below the top of the crag.

You can continue up and to the left to the anchor of Power of Persuasion and admire the fantastic 360° view from the top of the crag.

P1: Starts up and to the left across the small cave. Up the face and to the belay ledge of Climba Sutra, then left up the arete.

P2: Crosses the line of Demons of Bosh then up through the roof. Some big moves then easy climbing to the top of the crag. Anchor is on top of the rock, with great views.

Probably the best route at the crag. Shares the start and first bolt with A Roof Too Far, then climbs diagonally up to the left. A few balancey moves at the top of the face get you to a rest before you take on the roof. A couple of big, fun moves gets you through the roof, a few more meters gets you to the anchor. Fantastic climbing.

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Straight up the face to a ledge. Use this route to gain access to the following three routes.

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

From the belay of Buckle traverse left then up through the overhanging face. Easier climbing to the anchor. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

P1: Climb Buckle.

P2: Move left to the overhanging crack, follow it up to the right then pull over the lip.

P3: Follow the crack system to the right of the belay, up to the right hand end of the roof. Up a crack and groove system, then left to a bolted belay.

Up the groove then left to the anchor of Buckle.

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

Up Age Concern to the belay of Buckle, then continue up to the right hand end of the roof. Up and over the lip on to the ledge.

Straight up the blunt arete. Move left near the top, then rightwards up the groove to the anchor.

P1: Up the face. Some holds hard to find. Keep moving to avoid the pump.

P1: Start on Première, then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Cross the ine of 100 Buck. Climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

P1: Starts right of Première. Crosses the line of Bring Back Buck. Crux at the top going straight up the overhanging face of the large horn feature.

P2: Up the face.

P1: Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux with some quality bridging. First anchor is shared with Red Line.

P2: Head right to the first bolt (which is shared with Red Line), then follow the bolts up. Fun climbing.

P3: A truly alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

Decent: The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

P1: Fun climbing up the red streak on good holds.

P2: Move right. Shares first bolt with P2 of Pass The Buck. Keep going right, then up the slightly overhanging face and up on to the ledge above to the anchor.

For some bonus fun, link it into P2 of Bucking Fumblies by continuing on from the anchor up and right up the ramp. Then can do P3 of Bucking Fumblies for a fantastic view.

P1: Up the face and trends right out to the arete. Up on to a ledge where you'll find an anchor.

P2: Head straight up from the anchor before trending right for a 17 variant. Or go right from the anchor, then up the white face for the 21 variant. Optional belay where the two variants meet, otherwise keep going up and then right to the next ledge.

P3: A bit runout and exposed in places, but fun climbing. Gets up nice and high for a fantastic view. Climbs up through a groove to a crazy thin oversized handle feature. Watch for loose rocks.

To access the following routes, go back down the access track to the old miners tunnel and follow a rough track up to the right.

P1: Tough start, then easier climbing up through a groove. Gets more difficult again once you hit the headwall, then up to a big ledge.

Belay your partner up then move left and over a wall to another ledge.

P2: Wild. Up and to the left to a horn feature. Up a groove, then to the right

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.

Clean your shoes and any dirty gear at the washing station to help prevent Kauri dieback.