A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Wainora Boulders
14 in Field
- 1.1. Trackside Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.2. Boulder C192Alpha 4 in Boulder
- 1.3. The Casket 1 in Boulder
- 1.4. The Big Block CLOSED PROJECTS 0 in Boulder
- 1.5. Campsite Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Wainora Boulders 14 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -37.068233, 175.653197
- there is no modification of the boulders
- ecology is respected at all times
- bio-assets are respected at all times
- brushing is minimised to those holds which are used or could be used (ie touched) to ensure progression and the climbers safety
- the climber is considered as part of the environment and preserved
summary
Boulders of the Wainora valley.
description
Andesite blocks dispersed about the Wainora valley.
access issues
Careful exploring the true right of the river as the fenced-off area literally contains undetonated shells.
approach
Park at the Wainora campsite (signposted and the 4th campsite on the left), about 7km up the road from the Visitor Centre. There is space for a couple of cars in front of the campground and a bigger area for parking at the back of the campground.
where to stay
Wainora campsite offers plenty of space, great views of surrounding peaks and toilet facilities:
ethic
Gradingwise, The Kauaeranga Valley follows standard ewbank and strict V grading based on ARG and Port Hills standards, roughly:
VB = absolute beginner level bouldering VE = <16 V0 = 16,17 V1 = 18,19,20 V2 = 21,22 V3 = 23,24 And then: V grade = Ewbank - 21.
Please follow NZAC guidelines. Minimise ecological impact at all times. Additionally, the Department of Conservation has given the permission to boulder on the andesite boulders of the valley IF:
Enquire at the DOC Valley Visitor Centre if at all unsure of the application of the NZAC guidelines.
1.1. Trackside Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
An approximately 10m wide by 6m high, high quality, well-featured and slightly overhanging, bouldering wall for beginner to intermediate boulderers. The rock is welded columnar andesite with the columns lying horizontally. The steepness ensures that the problems are not as easy as they first look.
You can boulder at will on the wall - listed are the obvious sequences/lines. It's possible to finish at the row of jugs at the top and down-boulder/jump - or climb further carefully into the bush (at 5-6m). Take care especially when higher on the left hand side of the wall - the track narrows and it is entirely possible to miss the track if you fall or jump carelessly. The top-outs might require a brush, especially after rain until any loose soil stabilises. Do everyone a favour and help polish and buff the boulder by bringing a wire brush. The boulder seeps after heavy rain, for a day or two and may take a while to dry in winter. A great boulder for summer as it remains in the shade for quite a while and its nearness to the river means it can be quite cool when it is sweltering elsewhere, however it is possible to boulder all year round with a few dry days.
approach
Park at the Wainora Campsite. After around 5-10mins (750m) of the Cookson Kauri walk, the boulder appears on the right.
To descend, walk directly back for about 10m until a simple track leads off to the left and down the left hand gully (easy going).
history
Initially cleaned and climbed by Phil Higgins while resident in Thames, who realised the bouldering and climbing potential of the area.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ The traverse
Traverse the boulder from the furthermost right hand holds to the left arete, just above the ground. Dropping down to bum-drag the crux drops a V grade or two. FA: Phil Higgins | V3 | 9m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Matchstick right
RHS to matchstick that joins that problem with the left hand on the next hold from the incut. Better than the direct. FA: Phil Higgins, Nov 2021 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 3 |
Matchstick
Follow the line of least resistance up the right hand side of the boulder, making use of the deep incut, topping out to the tree, with it on your right. The sit start from side-pulls does not add to the grade. FA: Phil Higgins, Nov 2021 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Stalag 13
Follow the hair-line crack, mainly on its left hand side. Move right at the top to finish as for Matchstick. The sit start from side-pulls does not add to the grade. FA: Phil Higgins, Nov 2021 | V1 | 6m | |||||
| 5 |
The Water Streak
Squeeze job up the line of the water streak which appears after rain and takes a few days to dry, to finish on great jugs. Contrived as shares the good hold with Stalag 13. FA: Phil Higgins, Dec 2021 | V2 | 6m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Trackside left
The left-most line of a couple of slopey edges then crimp edges, directly above the obvious crux of the traverse. Move right (slopey) to finish on the awesome jugs and gingerly into the bush. Harder than it looks. FA: Phil Higgins, Nov 2021 | V3 | 6m | |||||
1.2. Boulder C192Alpha 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Polished and slick. A beginners block with a problem or two with a dry landing, one with a wet landing. Not great landings - take a pad or two for out right and spot, mask, flipper and snorkel for out left.
approach
The next boulder down the river from the trackside boulder. Head up to the trackside bouilder, back down the rise and look out for the next block across the river (obvious).
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Steps ahead
The right hand staircase. FA: Phil Higgins | VB- | 2m | |||||
| 2 |
Dachau
About the centre of the upstream side. FA: Phil Higgins, Dec 2021 | VB | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
Bell Gully
The left hand side of the boulder with a bad landing. FA: Phil Higgins, Dec 2021 | VB | 3m | |||||
| 4 |
Power, Corruption, Lies
The traverse then up. Bad landing on the left side. FA: Phil Higgins, Dec 2021 | V0 | 3m | |||||
1.3. The Casket 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Downstream from C192Alpha and eminently forgettable.
approach
Head up to trackside. Downstream from trackside is a block sticking out into the river on the true left that looks cool. Visible downstream from C192Alpha.
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Fritz Klein
Looks interesting but the landing is bad and the rock very polished by the river! Not recommended. FA: Phil Higgins, Dec 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
1.4. The Big Block CLOSED PROJECTS 0 routes in Boulder
description
A wonder of nature, you wonder how this thing hasn't toppled over yet. CLOSED - PROJECTS.
approach
Best bet is to access the river just before the trackside boulder and head downstream until you see the block on the right. CLOSED - PROJECTS.
history
Discovered by Higgins November 2021.
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1.5. Campsite Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Trad climbing
description
A large 10m high block of welded columnar andesite, a short distance from the Wainora campsite, with a stream running along its vegetated left side. The route on the right is open, 19 R. The brushed / cleanish line up the middle is A PROJECT
approach
Start along the Cookson Kauri walk until the block appears through the trees to the left, after a minute or two.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Computation
Brilliant. At the far right-hand end of the boulder, in the bush. Starts of the river bank. Pro: #1 ballnut, #2 RP, #2 ballnut, none of which is inspiring (R/X rating). After the first moves, move right to place the first pro (#1 ballnut, RP) Perhaps best top-roped off trees behind the boulder: head right and then up and around to the back where rata vines/roots provide access. FA: Phil Higgins, 31 Jan | 19/20 R | 10m | |||||
| 2 |
CLOSED PROJECT
The cleanish, partially brushed line up the centre of the face, left of computation. A CLOSED PROJECT | |||||||
| 3 |
A CLOSED PROJECT
The cleanish, partially brushed line up the centre of the face, left of computation. A CLOSED PROJECT | |||||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| VB- | Steps ahead | 2m | 1.2. Boulder C192Alpha | |||
| VB | Bell Gully | 3m | 1.2. Boulder C192Alpha | |||
| Dachau | 3m | 1.2. Boulder C192Alpha | ||||
| V0 | Power, Corruption, Lies | 3m | 1.2. Boulder C192Alpha | |||
| Fritz Klein | 2m | 1.3. The Casket | ||||
| V1 | Matchstick | 6m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | |||
| ★ | Matchstick right | 6m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | |||
| ★★ | Stalag 13 | 6m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | |||
| 19/20 R | ★★ | Computation | 10m | 1.5. Campsite Boulder | ||
| V2 | The Water Streak | 6m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | |||
| V3 | ★★ | The traverse | 9m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | ||
| ★★ | Trackside left | 6m | 1.1. Trackside Boulder | |||
| ? | A CLOSED PROJECT | 1.5. Campsite Boulder | ||||
| CLOSED PROJECT | 1.5. Campsite Boulder |