Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | |||||||||
27 |
★★ Hiroshima
![]() | 26m | Waipapa | Sun 5th May 2024 | |||||
27 Easy |
★★ Hiroshima
![]() | 26m | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th May 2024 | ||||
Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip
|
|||||||||
27 |
★★ Hiroshima
![]() | 26m | Waipapa | Sun 12th May 2024 | |||||
26 | |||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | ||||
Everything except that one slab dyno
|
|||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 9th Apr 2021 | ||||
Hard . A few hours on rope working it over maybe 2 sessions I’d say . Sent 2nd tie in to rp ( first tie in with light :p ) on edge .
|
|||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | Sat 4th Mar 2023 | |||||
Worked the multiple cruxes. One to come back for
|
|||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Checking out the climb again:
Crux 1: Don't know what to do
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
|
|||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jan 2024 | ||||
Crux 1: Know what to do, can do it (thanks to finding a new foot & Kiera's suggestion of stepping though)
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it (weak fingers)
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
|
|||||||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | Sun 7th Apr 2024 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | |||||
26 |
★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
![]() | 25m, 8 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 28th Apr 2024 | ||||
High point left hand in pocket by 5th (foot popped
Amazing slab 100000/10 |
|||||||||
23 | |||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye
![]() | 30m, 11 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
Great bouldery bottom section, top needs a clean
|
|||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye (Popeye P1)
![]() | 13m, 11 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Mon 25th Apr 2022 | ||||
I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo
|
|||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye
![]() | 30m, 11 | Waipapa | Thu 5th Jan 2017 | |||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
![]()
1
13
| 13m, 11 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Feb 2024 | ||||
Very close to onsight. Came off in sea of lichen over the lip after the crux.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
![]()
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Feb 2024 | ||||
Flubbed the transition to slab
|
|||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
![]()
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Feb 2024 | ||||
Red point #3rdGo Nice route!
|
|||||||||
23 ~22 |
★ Popeye
![]() | 30m, 11 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
It is significantly easier than any of the other 23s at Waipapa. Even at 22 it'll be on the softer side.
|
|||||||||
23 |
★ Popeye
![]() | 30m, 11 | Waipapa | Tue 4th Jun 2024 | |||||
22 | |||||||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Nov 2019 | ||||
Working this one. Topped it out with a little detour onto Mortality
|
|||||||||
22 |
★★ Fingers Crossed
![]() | 25m, 4 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 19th Jan 2020 | ||||
This is a beautiful line with some great variation, the handcrack section is epic! Climbed the trad section and clipped the first bolt cleanly but was too pumped so rested on the bolt. I'd say the crux for me is moving left after clipping the bolt (I'm tall which helps with clipping before moving left). I worked/dogged most of the rest of the route as I was just too pumped and the crux is tricky. This is a nice project for me, being efficient through the trad section is important to avoid pump!
|
|||||||||
22 |
★★ Fingers Crossed
![]() | 25m, 4 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 15th Mar 2020 | ||||
Lead the trad section bit smoother this time, got to the first bolt again but failed at the crux. Worked the moves to the second bolt but couldn't quite get it. Warm conditions and just didn't have the stamina.
|
|||||||||
22 |
★★ Fingers Crossed
![]() | 25m, 4 | Waipapa | Sat 19th Dec 2020 | |||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | ||||
Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.
|
|||||||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Apr 2022 | ||||
Didn’t really engage try-hard mode. Probably needed a break after training yesterday. But this is a very nice route and at least I did all the moves
|
|||||||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Aug 2022 | ||||
Small balance move
|
|||||||||
22 |
★ Mortality P1
![]()
1
15
| 15m, 13 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Sun 16th Apr 2023 | ||||
22 ~23 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||
22 |
★ Mortality
![]() | 31m, 13 | Waipapa | Tue 24th Feb 2015 | |||||
22 |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 12th Nov 2023 | ||||
Tricky start section. Cool route.
|
|||||||||
22 Hard |
★★ Seattle Rain
![]() | 13m, 5 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Hard smearing. If this is 22 then Popeye is 21. Could even be soft 23 as Robin felt slightly easier than this.
|
|||||||||
22 |
★ Mortality
![]() | 31m, 13 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2024 | ||||
Quality pitch. Would recommend doing the 2nd pitch if you're up there.
|
|||||||||
17 |
★ Mortality
![]()
1
17
15m
Top pitch way too mossy, and due to confusion went the wrong way and ended up 8m to the left of the route
2
16m
| 31m, 13 | Waipapa | Sun 5th May 2024 | |||||
20 | |||||||||
20 |
★★ Ben’s Big Day Out
![]() | 22m, 3 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Tue 22nd Dec 2020 | ||||
Difficult climbing on dirty holds with average gear. At my very limit. Recommended for climbers who are already very confident climbing on gear at 20/21, and I guess I barely make the cut...
|
|||||||||
18 | |||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Wed 18th Apr 2007 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Apr 2007 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Fri 18th May 2007 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | 2009 | ||||
a most do climb!
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 11th Nov 2012 | ||||
Seconded clean. Using the start as a dihedrala nd not a lay back makes it soooo much easier. Awesome climbing.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Jun 2014 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Thu 5th Jun 2014 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Jan 2013 | ||||
I must have been on this before surely?
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Dec 2014 | ||||
Getting onto the ledge was a struggle and a half. Apart from that, amazing.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Sep 2015 | ||||
Following Lenka and ShiChang. Supposed to be a warmup but feelin' pretty tired. You can get 3 people up this by tying the second into the middle of a 60m rope.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd Oct 2013 | ||||
Start is way harder than 18. Possibly 20. Awesome climbing.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Thu 23rd Oct 2014 | ||||
Really hard start. 21 start?
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Thu 31st Dec 2015 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Thu 31st Dec 2015 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Mega Classic | 2010 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Sun 25th Oct 2009 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Sun 18th Feb 2018 | |||||
19 18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | ||||
Been a while. Clean and controlled. Nice top belaying in the sun. Prob not the best Waipapa intro for Matt.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Sun 16th Sep 2018 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Sep 2018 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | |||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Thu 11th Oct 2018 | |||||
19 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Oct 2018 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Sat 10th Nov 2018 | |||||
Not the best choice for first route of the day. Interesting but considerably harder than 18 start, sat a couple of times, eventually got to the crack fingerlocks, couldn't pull up above to get my feet onto the slab before 3rd bolt. Downclimbed and cleaned. Might consider a ball nut next time.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Sat 8th Dec 2018 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 23rd Dec 2018 | ||||
Wicked climb. I suck at crack climbing so struggled with the first few bolts. Interesting varied climbing.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Mar 2019 | ||||
Pretty hard lower section with some thin feet. Took a couple of falls (grating myself in the process) and several rests working out how to get up to 3rd bolt, much easier once I worked out the right way to go. There is a loose block on the right at the bottom which I avoided weighting. Much easier ground after 3rd bolt. Not recomended as a warm up!
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 8th Jun 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Sep 2019 | ||||
First climb in NZ couldn't work out the pockets brilliant climb shouldn't have burnt the onsight on this one
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | ||||
20 18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Fri 4th Oct 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | ||||
Super fun, deserves its * * * rating! Up the crack at the start, shifting hands upward and smearing feet against slick face (the feet follow the hands on this one - opposite of the advice I was given for "Easy Lay" haha). I try to wedge my left foot into the crack as I go for a little extra purchase, too (dunno if helps really). I actually moved onto the face after clipping 2nd bolt, grabbing little chalked chip/pocket with right hand and then putting right foot into little pocket too, stemming with left foot against side of other face, moving left hand into little slopey pockets on face too. After that it gets easier, with better and better holds for both hands and feet, as you go diagonally up/right and then fully horizontal to the right. Eventually there is a beautiful juggy flake just above each bolt as you shift along the long traverse. I kept ensuring I found solid feet to keep the pump at bay, and the only pump I felt was in my feet! Haha. The mantle onto the belay ledge was fine with the help of a high right heel hook
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Nov 2019 | ||||
This is a really nice climb. But I screwed up my flash attempt moving onto the face after the 3rd bolt. I got stuck and called for a take. Bad day confirmed. Did the rest of this long traverse cleanly including the mantle. One take hangdog
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Nov 2019 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Sun 1st Dec 2019 | ||||
Didnt quite get how to do the start right. I had two falls just after the wider crack. Managed to eventually figure the move over the next section.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Average | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Dec 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th Dec 2019 | ||||
Loved it! Walrus-mantled to the finish
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Average | Thu 11th Jun 2020 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Fri 11th Sep 2020 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sun 13th Oct 2019 | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||||
One fall right at first bolt, for leanbacking keep feet nice and high. Guide wrong about draws, 9 to mid belay (perma draws), 5 for traverse.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||||
Off shared mid achor, crux getting out of crack, easy beyond.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | |||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Sat 22nd Feb 2020 | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Arches
![]() | 35m, 13 | Waipapa | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Nov 2020 | ||||
Just as good as I remembered. Probably the best 18 I've ever done!
Exciting layback sequence up to the third bolt, rock is pretty slippy under the first bolt so I'd probably have first clipped before starting, helps to lean into the other wall too with the shoulders/hips. Then really beautiful, cruisy traverse across and up to the anchors. |
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Average | Sat 28th Nov 2020 | ||||
Short people beta warning: once you leave the crack, pull on the super high left hand pocket, hoping the left foot smear doesn't fail, right hand jam changes to a gaston situation and match the right foot up to it. Then haul!
Lower part is fun with jamming involved - the crux is getting out of the crack onto the face. Then the upper part is mostly good, with one little traverse that's a little thin. |
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | Tue 15th Dec 2020 | |||||
19 18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★ Good | Tue 15th Dec 2020 | ||||
Repeat. Hard to grade as it’s just that one hard section around grade 20-21 while the rest is pretty cruisy. 18 still feels stiff though...
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Dec 2020 | ||||
First go. Flash attempt failed after third bolt. Then went to top.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Dec 2020 | ||||
Second go. Same place. Depressing.
|
|||||||||
18 |
★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit
![]() | 20m, 10 | Waipapa | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Dec 2020 | ||||
Redpoint. This was the first time I needed more than one go on an 18 in 2020! Well I am not quite an 18 climber yet
|