Showing all 75 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 25th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery, Fergus Roache | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Found it pretty spooky, keen to go back for the redpoint!
|
|||||||
Sun 5th May 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
27 Easy | ★★ Hiroshima — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route. Techy moves through the roof then powerful over the lip
|
|||||||
Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven — 6 attempts - with Clément, AJ Lee, AJ | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
High point left hand in pocket by 5th (foot popped ) black point from start of 2nd crux.
Amazing slab 100000/10 |
|||||||
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Iker Sustatxa | 20m, 10 | |||||
A fight near the 4th bolt. Great cracks and jamming (feet and fingers)
Loose rock just after the first bolt - it’s the obvious jug that’s loose |
|||||||
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
|
|||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Got shut down by the corner. Now I know what to do!
|
|||||||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun!
|
|||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★ Mortality - with Kiera Montgomery | 31m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Quality pitch. Would recommend doing the 2nd pitch if you're up there.
|
|||||||
22 Hard | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Kiera Montgomery | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard smearing. If this is 22 then Popeye is 21. Could even be soft 23 as Robin felt slightly easier than this.
|
|||||||
23 ~22 | ★ Popeye - with Kiera Montgomery | 30m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
It is significantly easier than any of the other 23s at Waipapa. Even at 22 it'll be on the softer side.
|
|||||||
Sat 24th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 10 | |||||
Climbing it much better than the first time. Actually felt like 18 if you know some offwidthing and commit to the crack.
|
|||||||
Mon 19th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
repeat
|
|||||||
Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Red point #3rdGo Nice route!
|
|||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13m
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Flubbed the transition to slab
|
|||||||
23 |
★ Popeye P1
- with
Alex Popinga, Andrew
1
13
| 13m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very close to onsight. Came off in sea of lichen over the lip after the crux.
|
|||||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven — 3 attempts - with Kiera Montgomery | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux 1: Know what to do, can do it (thanks to finding a new foot & Kiera's suggestion of stepping though)
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it (weak fingers)
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
|
|||||||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Gerald Lanning | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Yeh, that start, rough for an 18 [or should that be smooth, so polished!]. Great to get it cleanly, was touch and go at a few points, but good management, and a mantle finish ftw.
|
|||||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Flo Roeske | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route. Interesting start with a cruisy section further up.
|
|||||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tricky start section. Cool route.
|
|||||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Crack climbing experience may help, as well as grabbing your own foot
|
|||||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Unfortunately didn’t get it clean, interesting climbing for me in the crack at the bottom and then very easy above that.
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with Ryan, Lizzy | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Checking out the climb again:
Crux 1: Don't know what to do
Crux 2: Know what to do, can't do it
Crux 3: Know what to do, can do it
|
|||||||
Sat 8th Jul 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Crux is the start up the crack. Harder if you miss the sedgeway left.
|
|||||||
Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with Kiera Montgomery | 25m, 8 | |||||
Worked the multiple cruxes. One to come back for
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Kiera Montgomery | 20m, 10 | |||||
Hardest 18 I've done in a while. Foot jamming and chicken wings on a sport climb
|
|||||||
Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
What a climb, easy to take during climb as the layback feels so sketchy but definitley one ill be coming back to do clean
|
|||||||
Sat 13th Aug 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
Stopped at Gauche Mais Pas Maladroit anchors since I had nobody to second it.
|
|||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Small balance move
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Not a good warm up. A bit pumpy. Only climbed half of the route to the anchor of another 18.
|
|||||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent climb. Thoroughly enjoyed from start to finish
|
|||||||
Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
23 |
★ Popeye (Popeye P1)
| 13m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
I really should have onsighted this… #2ndGo
|
|||||||
Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Marnus, Nathan, Samuel Malan | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Went wrong way around 3rd. Cool crux
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Sam Turner, Samuel Malan, Marnus | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
First few moves are a wee bit tricky
|
|||||||
Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Thibaut, Nathan | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn’t really engage try-hard mode. Probably needed a break after training yesterday. But this is a very nice route and at least I did all the moves
|
|||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Amazing route. Should be on everyone’s radar as a benchmark for that grade.
|
|||||||
Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Gareth, Jake | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Been a while I think. Start a bit goey for a warmup.
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with John Pitcairn, jake gray | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Clean lead, without cheesegrating on the start, or having my heart broken by the finish. This lulled me into thinking I could maybe still actually climb, before Waipapa made me eat that assumption.
Always a great line, shame I can never remember where the holds to get the finish nicely are. Forgetting to clip the bolt before the anchors that makes flubbing the mantle less aggravating, definitely sharpened the senses |
|||||||
Wed 12th Jan 2022 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The start kinda sucked, after that it was very cool
|
|||||||
Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Eric Horn | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great clean ascent, bottom is always harder than you expect. Wanted to bridge more but couldn't get it working, had some interesting back to the wall "rests". Managed to take some photos with some hands free rests.
|
|||||||
Fri 9th Apr 2021 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with krippner | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Hard . A few hours on rope working it over maybe 2 sessions I’d say . Sent 2nd tie in to rp ( first tie in with light :p ) on edge .
|
|||||||
Tue 29th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with andrew | 35m, 13 | |||||
Previously led
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with andrew | 20m, 10 | |||||
Tough but glad to get clean. Would probably get 19/20 at another crag...
|
|||||||
Tue 22nd Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
20 | ★★ Ben’s Big Day Out | 22m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Difficult climbing on dirty holds with average gear. At my very limit. Recommended for climbers who are already very confident climbing on gear at 20/21, and I guess I barely make the cut...
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Repeat. The gift that keeps on giving. Fabulous climbing from the layback start through to the mantle finish. Cemented in my top 3 for NZ. World class.
|
|||||||
Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Had tried this one a long time ago and actually went through the crux (bottom to 3rd bolt, basically) but made a grave route reading mistake and tried to go right of the 3rd bolt instead of left 😂 (it's pretty blank to the right!) Went down easily this time, as I'd remembered that fateful onsight attempt, and gosh is the sequence fun up to the 3rd bolt!! Can't wait to start trad climbing so I can get more of this crack flavour (shut up), jamming and stacking my feet into little dihedrals, etc.!
|
|||||||
Fri 18th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First go. Flash attempt failed after third bolt. Then went to top.
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Second go. Same place. Depressing.
|
|||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Redpoint. This was the first time I needed more than one go on an 18 in 2020! Well I am not quite an 18 climber yet But at least I learned how to finger lock and foot jam today
|
|||||||
Tue 15th Dec 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
19 18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Repeat. Hard to grade as it’s just that one hard section around grade 20-21 while the rest is pretty cruisy. 18 still feels stiff though...
|
|||||||
Sat 28th Nov 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
Short people beta warning: once you leave the crack, pull on the super high left hand pocket, hoping the left foot smear doesn't fail, right hand jam changes to a gaston situation and match the right foot up to it. Then haul!
Lower part is fun with jamming involved - the crux is getting out of the crack onto the face. Then the upper part is mostly good, with one little traverse that's a little thin. |
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just as good as I remembered. Probably the best 18 I've ever done!
Exciting layback sequence up to the third bolt, rock is pretty slippy under the first bolt so I'd probably have first clipped before starting, helps to lean into the other wall too with the shoulders/hips. Then really beautiful, cruisy traverse across and up to the anchors. |
|||||||
Mon 26th Oct 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Sandy H | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best climbs in New Zealand at this grade! The traverse makes you feel like you're in a Mission Impossible movie.
|
|||||||
Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven - with Tom | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Everything except that one slab dyno
|
|||||||
Sun 15th Mar 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Fingers Crossed | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lead the trad section bit smoother this time, got to the first bolt again but failed at the crux. Worked the moves to the second bolt but couldn't quite get it. Warm conditions and just didn't have the stamina.
|
|||||||
Sun 19th Jan 2020 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Fingers Crossed | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This is a beautiful line with some great variation, the handcrack section is epic! Climbed the trad section and clipped the first bolt cleanly but was too pumped so rested on the bolt. I'd say the crux for me is moving left after clipping the bolt (I'm tall which helps with clipping before moving left). I worked/dogged most of the rest of the route as I was just too pumped and the crux is tricky. This is a nice project for me, being efficient through the trad section is important to avoid pump!
|
|||||||
Mon 30th Dec 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Andy Baird | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved it! Walrus-mantled to the finish
|
|||||||
Sun 1st Dec 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Didnt quite get how to do the start right. I had two falls just after the wider crack. Managed to eventually figure the move over the next section.
|
|||||||
Tue 26th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Off shared mid achor, crux getting out of crack, easy beyond.
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | |||||
One fall right at first bolt, for leanbacking keep feet nice and high. Guide wrong about draws, 9 to mid belay (perma draws), 5 for traverse.
|
|||||||
Sun 24th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
22 | ★★ Seattle Rain - with Alex Popinga | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Working this one. Topped it out with a little detour onto Mortality
|
|||||||
Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Alex Popinga | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This is a really nice climb. But I screwed up my flash attempt moving onto the face after the 3rd bolt. I got stuck and called for a take. Bad day confirmed. Did the rest of this long traverse cleanly including the mantle. One take hangdog Don't try to clean this one on the way down! It should probably be cleaned on the way up by a second on top-rope. It took me ages to clean it on the way down and it was a bit scary when I was tired and trying to redirect through the anchors of another climb. I realised almost too late that a big swing was possible just before I got my end of the rope in.
|
|||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Alexei Drummond | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun, deserves its * * * rating! Up the crack at the start, shifting hands upward and smearing feet against slick face (the feet follow the hands on this one - opposite of the advice I was given for "Easy Lay" haha). I try to wedge my left foot into the crack as I go for a little extra purchase, too (dunno if helps really). I actually moved onto the face after clipping 2nd bolt, grabbing little chalked chip/pocket with right hand and then putting right foot into little pocket too, stemming with left foot against side of other face, moving left hand into little slopey pockets on face too. After that it gets easier, with better and better holds for both hands and feet, as you go diagonally up/right and then fully horizontal to the right. Eventually there is a beautiful juggy flake just above each bolt as you shift along the long traverse. I kept ensuring I found solid feet to keep the pump at bay, and the only pump I felt was in my feet! Haha. The mantle onto the belay ledge was fine with the help of a high right heel hook
|
|||||||
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Hannah Rose | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First climb in NZ couldn't work out the pockets brilliant climb shouldn't have burnt the onsight on this one
|
|||||||
Sat 8th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
23 | ★ Popeye | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great bouldery bottom section, top needs a clean
|
|||||||
Sat 2nd Mar 2019 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty hard lower section with some thin feet. Took a couple of falls (grating myself in the process) and several rests working out how to get up to 3rd bolt, much easier once I worked out the right way to go. There is a loose block on the right at the bottom which I avoided weighting. Much easier ground after 3rd bolt. Not recomended as a warm up!
|
|||||||
Sun 23rd Dec 2018 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Charlie | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wicked climb. I suck at crack climbing so struggled with the first few bolts. Interesting varied climbing.
|
|||||||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | |||||
Not the best choice for first route of the day. Interesting but considerably harder than 18 start, sat a couple of times, eventually got to the crack fingerlocks, couldn't pull up above to get my feet onto the slab before 3rd bolt. Downclimbed and cleaned. Might consider a ball nut next time.
|
|||||||
Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Gareth, Wez Wright | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Been a while. Clean and controlled. Nice top belaying in the sun. Prob not the best Waipapa intro for Matt.
|
|||||||
Sun 13th Sep 2015 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with shichang | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Following Lenka and ShiChang. Supposed to be a warmup but feelin' pretty tired. You can get 3 people up this by tying the second into the middle of a 60m rope.
|
|||||||
Sun 21st Dec 2014 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Getting onto the ledge was a struggle and a half. Apart from that, amazing.
|
|||||||
Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Caleb Hudson | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really hard start. 21 start?
|
|||||||
Wed 23rd Oct 2013 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Start is way harder than 18. Possibly 20. Awesome climbing.
|
|||||||
Sun 13th Jan 2013 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Stephen Bailey | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I must have been on this before surely?
|
|||||||
Sun 11th Nov 2012 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches - with Peter Ramage, Rachael Siohane-Royle | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Seconded clean. Using the start as a dihedrala nd not a lay back makes it soooo much easier. Awesome climbing.
|
|||||||
2009 - Waipapa | |||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | |||||||
18 | ★★★ The Arches | 35m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
a most do climb!
|
Showing all 75 ascents.