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Routes as trad in Wānaka

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Showing all 78 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Hospital Flat Cattle Yard Moa Pit
20 Piping the Cab

FA: Mark Morrison & Gordon Legge

Trad 25m
Hospital Flat Little Big Wall
14 There Ya Go!

FA: Glen Einam

Trad 20m
26 Passport to Pakistan

FA: Scott Standen, 2009

Trad
Hospital Flat The Main Cliff
14 Pennywise

A scrubby crack.

Trad 10m
19 The Nutty Professor

Start Sensa Dextra and climb straight up the crack without traversing, then through the overlap.

FA: Ed Nepia, 2002

Trad 15m
20 Senstra Dextra

Start off the ramp at the thin crack, then traverse right to another crack, which leads through the overlap. Traverse right below a roof to the anchor. The cracks take good natural pro, but take care with placements - some stunning groundfalls have occurred here.

FA: Calum Hudson

Trad 20m
20 Lolly Gobble Bliss Bomb

Start Sensa Dextra and climb straight up the crack without traversing, then through the overlap

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 20m
20 Direct Approach

...or a courageous approach. Start below the twin cracks to join Sensa Dextra.

FA: Bryan Moore

Trad 20m
14 The Big Corner

Climb the corner, then move left along the big flake.

FA: Geoff Wyatt

Trad 20m
18 Bang My Drum

Left hand side of the arete and wall. Has been bolted and chopped multiple times, bold protection up through crack to the left. Or a good toprope can be setup from the bolted 17 to the right of the arete.

FA: Murray Ball, 2014

Trad 15m
23 Thin and Germanic

Thin moves up the face to finish either in the wide crack or up Wasted on the Wing.

FA: Jochen Lenfert

Mixed trad 15m, 2
14 Wasted On the Wing

Climb the diagonal crack up and left.

Trad 15m
20 The Visionary

Left of 'Do I Have To?'. Starts up face in corner using Quartz edges, hand crack, head left into chimney and top out to use same anchors as 'Do I Have To?'.

FA: Ian.Grabowski & Diego Le Chan

Trad 20m
Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone
17 The Crack

Follow the obvious crack.

FFA: Dave Fearnley

FA: Owen Cambridge & Allan Gillespie, 1973

Trad 15m
18 Nice Set of Jugs

Good jams and pro.

FA: Simon Baumfield

Trad 15m
Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders Birthday Block
Unknown
Mixed trad 10m, 1
Hospital Flat Whale Watching
18 Beached As

FA: Ed Liddle, 2008

Trad 15m
Hospital Flat The Crackhouse
22 Karearea Crack

Steep lay backing finger crack

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 20m
20 Gastroman

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 20m
18 Thrutching

FA: Wayo Carson, 2002

Trad 15m
17 New Beginnings

FA: Kate Wolfe & Wayo Carson

Trad
Hospital Flat Sunnyside
20 Giz-a-Combo/Anagaanga link up

Start up G-a-C to overlap, then head right and link to Anagaanga to finish up.

Trad 19m
26 Ode to Powergel

FA: Ed Nepia

Mixed trad 10m, 2
Hospital Flat The Bakehouse
15 Fully Baked

Sharing the first bolt with curiously sheepish and then traversing the finger crack step up onto easy ground that leads to a cruisy corner crack until two bolt anchor at top

FA: Will Wright, 30 Mar

Mixed trad 15m, 1
Hospital Flat Kai Whaka Pai
13 Aretenaphillia

Tree stands in the way of beginning of climb, overgrown with moss and lichen, an adventurous trad climb.

FA: Steve Henry & Gordon Legge

Trad 20m
12 Kiddies Corner
Trad 12m
17 Aargle Bargle

Although the arete is bolted, it also has some very poor natural protection. Take care.

Trad 10m
14 Strike!
Trad 15m
16 Friction In The Kitchen
Trad 15m
17 Nice & Sleazy Does it All the Time
Trad 18m
21 Gore-May Crack

Start under small roof and climb through, follow twin cracks to top

FA: Murray Ball, 2006

Trad 18m
Hospital Flat The Vatican
18 Rangitane

The splitter crack. Medium-large wires and small-medium cams useful.

FA: Bryan Moore, 2011

Mixed trad 30m, 1
Diamond Lake Rumour Mill
24 Power Generation

FA: Murray Ball

Trad 12m
23 Spray

FA: Murray Ball

Trad 20m
22 Milestone Road

Rappel on a 60m rope or use intermediary rap stations.

FA: Dave Shotwell

Mixed trad 35m, 5
17 Slander and Lies

FA: Nick Cradock

Trad 15m
Diamond Lake Jimmy Cliff
21 Havana

Wanaka's best hand crack? No bolted anchor.

FA: Dave Vass & Ed Nepia

Trad 20m
23 Where to Put a Putaputaweta

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 20m
25 Zion

FA: Dave Vass

Mixed trad 20m, 2
Diamond Lake Spade Slab
19 Feeling Rampant

FA: Clinton Beavan, Nick Cradock & Glen Einam

Mixed trad 30m, 7
Diamond Lake Hotline Corner
22 The Hotline

FA: Nick Cradock

Trad 15m
Motatapu Valley Riverside Main Wall
18 Just Go Nuts

FA: Brendon Swan & Jerry Murray-Orr, 2003

Mixed trad 20m, 3
24 Cookie Time

FA: Davd Hiddleston

Mixed trad 40m, 9
Motatapu Valley Riverside Beginner’s Slab
12 Zoftig

The bolts have been taken out due to the dangerous state of the flake. May still be climbed on gear at your own considerable risk... ( it seems the hangers are back!)

FA: Glen Einam

Trad 12m
Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Farside
24 Thanks Oleria

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 20m
21 The Crystal Line

FA: Allan Uren, 2008

Trad 20m
Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Al Cove
23 Girls, Girls, Girls

FA: Mike Scott

Mixed trad 15m, 3
Motatapu Valley Roadside Area Roadside Attraction
17 Slide It In

FA: Rob Alcorn

Mixed trad 15m, 1
16 Judge’s Wine

Follow the crack line right, then veer left under the top bulge.

Set: Brian Dyson, 1983

FA: Paul Scaife & Dave McNulty, 1985

Trad 15m
17 Self Directed Learning Tool

Up Strawberry until you can take the left crack above the overlap.

FA: Russell Braddock, 2003

Mixed trad 20m, 3
16 Aspiring Arseholes

look for a deep recess for the 1st placement, take some large gear for the crux

FA: Brian Dyson, 1983

Trad 15m
18 The Ramp

The pumpy right-leaning crack.

FA: Nick Cradock

Trad 13m
18 Papal's Nasal

crux start needs a good spot until the 1st piece of good placement.

FA: Nick Cradock

Trad 12m
23 Mr Cling Mixed trad 20m, 5
26 Adventures of Gonzo

FA: David Hiddleston

Mixed trad 20m, 5
19 Autumnal

FA: Rachel Brown & Clinton Beavan

Mixed trad 15m, 2
15 Natural

FA: Chris Jillett

Trad 15m
15 Everbody Needs a Thneed

FA: Allan Uren

Trad 15m
22 Ski Bum's Revenge

FA: Glen Einam

Mixed trad 10m, 3
Motatapu Valley Dunnyside
24 John McCallum's Crack

FA: John McCallum

Trad 20m
26 Exodus

FA: Jon Sedon

Trad 20m
28 The John

FA: Jon Sedon

Trad 20m
Matukituki Valley Closed Phoebe Creek
25 Gumba

FA: Jon Sedon

Mixed trad 15m, 2
23 Du Es Tu?

FA: Jerome Aussibal

Mixed trad 15m, 2
21 Do It

FA: Lionel Clay

Set: Nick Cradock

Mixed trad 15m, 3
18 Clinging

FA: Nick Cradock

Mixed trad 25m, 1
20 Kiwi Sheep Boy

FA: Dave Ash, 2005

Trad 25m
16 Bloke on a Rope

FA: Guy Cotter

Mixed trad 20m, 1
18 Doris in the Morris

FA: Allan Uren

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Matukituki Valley Hells Gate
26 Matariki
1 24 20m
2 20 12m
3 26 30m
4 23 18m

FA: Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Zdenek Racuk & Jon Sedon

Trad 80m, 4
Matukituki Valley Road End
18 Scaife's Crack

FA: Paul Scaife, Glen Einam & Gordon Legge

Trad 20m
19 Gordon's Crack

FA: Gordon Legge, Glen Einam & Paul Scaife

Trad 20m
17 Glean

FA: Glen Einam, Paul Scaife & Gordon Legge

Mixed trad 20m, 1
17 Peaceful

FA: Glen Einam, Paul Scaife & Gordon Legge

Mixed trad 25m, 1
25 Legge Legend

FA: Glen Einam, Paul Scaife & Gordon Legge

Mixed trad 30m, 2
19 Scenic

FA: Glen Einam, Paul Scaife & Gordon Legge

Mixed trad 20m, 1
West Wānaka Bluffs Live Wire
19 High Voltage Syndrome

FA: Matt Squires

Trad 15m
Glendhu Bay Glendhu Bay Upper
{UK} E2 5c Dinorwig Dreaming

Bold slatesque route on beautiful rock.

FA: Ian.Grabowski & Diego Le Chan

Trad 10m

Showing all 78 routes.

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