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Routes in North America for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
5.12b Honey Bear

Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015.

FA: James Cruikshank/Jay Foley, 2001

Sport 20m, 16 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Fantastic Voyage

Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.Climb a blocky start to a no hands ledge.Pump through the overhung arete inside the dahiedrel and tread right through tufas and back left on crimps and jugs to the anchors.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014

Sport 20m, 13 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Echando Raíces

Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it.

Set: jeb vetters, 1998

Sport 29m, 14 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Mouchie Mouchie

Scramble up on the sloping ledge (1 bolt) and tackle the vertical wall. Trends slightly right to an anchor left of a thin tufa.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013

Sport 26m, 15 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Ojo de la Mente

Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up.

Sport 25m, 11 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Regular Northwest Face

FA: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick & Jerry Gallwas, 1957

FFA: Dean Potter †, 2002

Aid 670m, 23 Yosemite National Park
YDS_ALT:5.12 B - C Tsunami

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

Sport 18m, 9 Mount Lemmon
5.12b/c Pesadilla Nocturna

Starts next to the low tufa with some distinct pockets.The oldest route in El Salto . New bolts now make it safe and pleasurable after years of scary run -outs on rusted home made hangers. Hold on at the third bolt.

Set: Paco Medina & Mike Bohorquez, 2011

Sport 20m, 9 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Super Best Friends

Classic line to the right of Delicatessen. Perma-draws after the first two bolts. A few tricky sections down low and then the most wild jugs you’ve ever seen all the way to the top.

Sport 28m Red River Gorge
5.12b Bizarre Contact

Hard bouldery crux at the bottom followed by a good rest and then a heady crux up top. 3 huge tufas mark this route on the right side of the wall near the 4 wheeler trail.

Set: James Carse, 1998

Sport 18m, 9 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Not Fade Away

The crag classic and for good reason. A rising leftwards traverse on jugs and small crimps, where you will find a fingery boulder problem to finish. Classic PA.

FA: Peter arbic

Sport 15m Skaha
V5 Trench Warfare

Sit start as for November, but move directly up and right to a sharp crimp then straight up to the juggy lip. Top out straight up on the slab using small crimps.

Boulder Calabogie
5.12b Infectious

Radical bouldery climbing up the blunt arete featuring every kind of hold and move imaginable.

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991

Sport 15m, 4 Red River Gorge
5.12b Ceylan

A beautiful crimp fest for the first 5 bolts.

Sport 22m, 8 Jilotepec
5.12b Guppie

Rightmost route, starts on the dark rock with a high first bolt. The action starts after the obvious ledge. Permadraws except for first 3.

Sport 29m, 8 El Potrero Chico
5.12b Pinch Fest
Sport Rifle Mountain Park
5.12b The Suffering

Perma-draws

FA: Blake Bowling, 2013

Sport 20m, 7 Red River Gorge
5.12b La Gallina Negra

A balancey slab into a beautiful steep wave like feature.

Sport 22m, 7 Jilotepec
5.12b Mantis

Just left of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out!

Sport 35m, 15 El Chonta
5.12b Frenesí

Crimps all the way. Recommended to stick clip the first 2 bolts.

Sport 14m, 6 Jilotepec
V5 Swank Stretch

Start seating on a flat jug. Using the thin slot to work up to better holds and top out

FA:

Boulder 3m Squamish
5.12b Gung Ho

FA: Porter Jarrard & Mark Williams

Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.12b Angeles caminando entre nosotros

Starts left of bush to anchor under roof.

Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011

Sport 31m, 12 El Salto; C.d.G.
5.12b Conflict

Follows the brown tufa to anchors below the ledge.

Sport 25m, 9 El Potrero Chico
5.12b Mercy, the Huff

FA: Porter Jarrard & Chris Snyder, 1991

Sport 24m, 9 Red River Gorge
5.12b The Flingus Cling
Sport 18m Squamish
5.12b El Contrabajo

Endurance climbing on large stalactites and a marked crux lead to crimps and sidepulls through the upper wall. Starts on the small ledge with a bolt for the belayer. Climbs up the dihedral and the through huge white tufas. Anchors are high up in the roof.

Sport 31m, 17 Guadalcázar
V5 Tu Fabien Ça

The main line of the boulder. Sitting under the overhang, left hand on a good jug, right hand lower on an ok undercling. Dedicated to my friend Fabien.

Boulder Eardley Escarpment
{AU} YDS:5.12b Buff The Wood

Interesting but cruxy climbing, not quite as good as it’s left hand neighbour.

FA: Jeff Moll, 1994

Sport 15m, 5 Red River Gorge
V5 Tomahawk

SDS with right hand on the arete and left hand in the lowest pocket. Softie.

Boulder Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders
5.12b Tissue Tiger
Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.12b Acertijo

Uno de los mejores 5.12s de todo pericos, inicia con una secuencia compleja de pies, luego un descanso antes de salir del techo y de ahí es puro power endurance de regletas hasta la reunión.

Video POV y beta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G5NU565Lt8

Video de José Hernández encadenando en Free solo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR0kJouU9ew

Sport 20m, 8 Los Pericos
V5 The Pearl
Boulder Red Rock
5.12b Geometric Progression Sport 9m Red Rock
5.12b Thunder Struck

Starts on the leaning flake with the first 2 bolts on the slab. Then follows a small crack up, out right to good pockets and to a tough finish to the anchors.

Sport 20m New River Gorge
5.12b Orangahang
Sport Rumney
5.12b Swedin-Ringle Route
Trad Indian Creek Canyon
V5 Timeless
Boulder Squamish
5.12b Ale-8-One

FA: Brian McCray, 1995

Sport 20m, 7 Red River Gorge
5.12a/b Flesh For Lulu

FA: Jerry Handren, 1987

Sport 33m, 11 Rumney
V5 Rythmix

SDS matched on biggest shelf. Go up to the good sloper and surf the arete.

Boulder Val-David
5.12b Salvation

The most sort after 12B at Skaha. And for good reason! If the tons of mini cruxes don't pump you out, the final move to clip the anchor surely will!

Sport 30m Skaha
V5 Té où?

Départ bien bas main gauche sur un pinch, talon et main droite sur la tablette. Top out à droite complètement avec un talon droit.

Boulder Val-David
5.12b Habanero (First Pitch)
Sport El Potrero Chico
5.12b Malditos Seres himenópteros

has a 3 bolt variation near the top

Sport 27m, 10 Ixcatan
5.12b Crack Babies

Steep, blunt arete to the right of Bloodshot. Steep bouldery jugging, unique for Smith!

Sport 15m, 5 Smith Rock State Park
5.12a/b Delicatessen

Much steepness and some difficulty on the left side of the most overhung part of the cave.

FA: Dru Mack & Dustin Stephens

Sport 26m, 9 Red River Gorge
V5 Twisted by Design

Sit start from the obvious crimp at the base of the arête. Climb up the arête.

Boulder Calabogie
V5 Gratte Cul

This is an eliminate that is worth trying. Same start as the previous line but continue traversing right by grabbing a sharp hold in the roof then a left pinch. Make a hard move right to eventually top out on a big shelf while eliminating the big horn of La Lèvre À Julien.

Boulder Eardley Escarpment
5.12b The Prophet
Sport 20m Red Rock
5.12b Plastic Jesus
Sport 18m Horne Lake
V5 Perigee

Start in the lowest flake and moove up on crimps. Get a right heel hook and reach the holds of your choice for topout. Left arete is out.

Boulder Calabogie
V5 Aminoguana

Sit start. Head up and and left, finish on good jug. Make sure to have a good spot for the rock at the start, and the tree at the end.

Boulder Peña de Bernal
5.12b Raising Cain

Perma draws from the 3rd bolt onwards.

Set: todd goss

Sport 17m, 9 St. George
5.12b Rain Dance
Sport Austin
V5 Le Fakir

Start matched both hands on round sloper. Go up following the prow. Detached rocks on the left are out. Benchmark V5+, super nice.

Boulder CEGEP Boulders
V5 Gros Jambon
Boulder Val-David
5.12b Hot Enough For Ya

Just left of Sausages be ready for crux at 3 bolt

Sport 12m, 4 Eardley Escarpment
V5 Tim's sloper problem
Boulder Squamish
5.12b Chun Cha Ka

Large tufas and stalagtites lead to a final crux at the end.

Sport 25m, 8 Guadalcázar
YDS_ALT:5.12 Celestial Omnibus

Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors.

Sport 10 El Potrero Chico
V5 Serengeti Boulder 4m Tablelands
5.12b Tobacco Road
Sport 30m, 7 Summersville Lake
5.12b Body Wax
Sport Austin
5.12b Street Knowledge
Sport Rifle Mountain Park
5.12a/b Jade

The uber-classic test-piece 5.12- at Reimer's, besides Lipo. 12a, or 12b? There will never be a consensus!

Sport Austin
5.12b Cerbero

Just left of Quimera in similar style.

Set: Erick López

Sport 16m, 8 La Meca
5.12b El Maestro de Ceremonias
Sport 30m, 11 Jilotepec
5.12a/b Forbiddance
Sport 30m, 16 Maple Canyon
5.12b Far From God

FA: 2004

Sport 25m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.12b Chupi Bombon

Esta ruta es una de las clásicas de la pared, tiene un crux muy definido con un final de mucha resistencia en agarres muy chicos.

FA: Jimmy Navarrete

Set: Miguel de la Torre

Sport 40m, 14 La Presa
5.12b El Fitomastigoforo

Set: Richi

Sport 26m Ixcatan
5.12b Bsss Ext

Inicia con una secuencia 5.11- de power endurance muy buena mejor conocida como "Bsss" luego de eso viene un slab v3 muy interesante para de ahi salir a un plano vertical con pies altos y agarres algo delicados.

Las caidas en esa parte estan algo peligrosas y expuestas por lo que se recomienda usar cintas largas o darle sin miedo a la lesion.

Terminando esa secuencia de 3 placas verticales se llega a un descanso grande para hacer un mantle y llegar a la reunión.

Sport 25m, 12 Los Pericos
V4/5 La Ballena

Sit-Start. Se trata de uno de los boulders más populares del sector "5. Trucha" por su fácil acceso y estética de la línea, que además es fácil de proteger. La guía propone V5 pero en realidad es más fácil.

Boulder 10m El Chico
5.12b Mr. Big
Sport 35m, 14 El Potrero Chico
5.12b El cuarto elemento
Sport La Bufa
V5 Prime Time Sit-down

Sit down start low and right on good jug for left hand then up features to mantel top out. Beautiful!!

Boulder 3m Squamish
5.12b Cuarto Menguante

Trends left around the corner after the initial slab. Grado original de 12c puede aplicar si escalas recto entre bolts en la parte arriba.

Sport 18m, 9 Jilotepec
V5 Gatineau Special

Start as 'The Theorem' and move up and into 'Feature Press'.

FA: DaveH, 2013

Boulder 4m Calabogie
V5/6 Tigerlily

Sit start at the base of the obvious left facing corner. Climb it! Key foothold broke (again...) (originally V8).

FA: 2000

Boulder Calabogie
V5 Apogee

Start right of Orbital Insertion with your left hand on the sloping lip and right hand on a sidepull edge. Make a couple of hard moves up the blunt arete

FA: 2006

Boulder Calabogie
V4/5 Clin d'oeil

Static or dynamic?

Boulder Val-David
5.12b Abiyoyo

Starts off the right hand end of the ledge just to the right of the double bolts down low. Brilliant climbing on beautiful, rippled, yellow rock. Left from the perma-draw and up through some trickiness to glory above.

Sport 30m Red River Gorge
V4/5 L'express

FA: Éric Loranger, 2001

Boulder Val-David
5.12b Techosurfing

FA: Scott Stevenson & Alan Cattabriga, 1988

Sport 27m, 9 Rumney
5.12b Lost Arrow Spire Tip
Aid 76m Yosemite National Park
V5 Viper
Boulder Squamish
5.12b Speaking In Tongues

A 5-star sloper jug workout. Start up NBD and head up and left after the knee-bar hueco.

Set: michal nad

Sport 10 St. George
V5 Unnamed V5

FA: Jesse Cameron

Boulder Acadia National Park
5.12b Strangle Hold
Sport Austin
V5 Le Masochiste

An excellent line on Squamish style crystals. Start at the bottom left of the boulder, matched on a huge shelf. Traverse right and top out to the left of the tree.

Boulder Plateau Boulder
YDS_ALT:5.12 Unknown Left of Twister
Sport La Huasteca
5.12b Swamp Gator

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

Sport 18m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.12b Bone Factory

Starts with a long slab to a first bolt at about 8 meters. The first vertical part is the crux followed by easier but sustained climbing to high anchors.

FA: Edgardo Baca

Sport 30m, 10 El Potrero Chico
5.12b In the Bubble

The steep, crimpy face right of Trekking to India.

FA: Shaun Bent, 2007

Sport 6 Sully's Hangout
V5 Palpable Tension

FA: Ken flagg

Boulder 4m Calabogie
5.12b Reliquary
Sport 9m Red River Gorge
5.12b Garras Ext

Continúa después de "Garras" poniendo una placa de la reunión más otras 5 placas y reunión. Secuencias interesantes de placa, grieta y slab.

Sport 30m, 13 Los Pericos
5.12b A Prince Amongst Thieves

FA: Peter WInter

Sport 25m, 8 Squamish
5.12b Moonraker
Sport 25m Horne Lake

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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