Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12b | ★★★ Honey Bear
Technical and slightly overhanging line on the face that follows a sweeping flake and then a series of tufas. First bolted gound up in 2001 but rebolted with glue November 2015. FA: James Cruikshank/Jay Foley, 2001 | 20m, 16 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Fantastic Voyage
Escala el diedro obvio que esta sobreprotegido con 4 plaquetas y llegas a una reunión después de salir del diedro. La ruta tiene una pequeña extensión.Climb a blocky start to a no hands ledge.Pump through the overhung arete inside the dahiedrel and tread right through tufas and back left on crimps and jugs to the anchors. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2014 | 20m, 13 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Echando Raíces
Starts right of the flakes, has 2 "random" perma draws on it. Set: jeb vetters, 1998 | 29m, 14 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★ Mouchie Mouchie
Scramble up on the sloping ledge (1 bolt) and tackle the vertical wall. Trends slightly right to an anchor left of a thin tufa. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2013 | 26m, 15 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Ojo de la Mente
Second route just left of the big tree.2nd pitch is 5.11d , rarely done because of massive beehive nest 3/4of way up. | 25m, 11 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Regular Northwest Face
FA: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick & Jerry Gallwas, 1957 FFA: Dean Potter †, 2002 | 670m, 23 | Yosemite National Park | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 B - C | ★★★ Tsunami
Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway. | 18m, 9 | Mount Lemmon | ||
5.12b/c | ★★ Pesadilla Nocturna
Starts next to the low tufa with some distinct pockets.The oldest route in El Salto . New bolts now make it safe and pleasurable after years of scary run -outs on rusted home made hangers. Hold on at the third bolt. Set: Paco Medina & Mike Bohorquez, 2011 | 20m, 9 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends
Classic line to the right of Delicatessen. Perma-draws after the first two bolts. A few tricky sections down low and then the most wild jugs you’ve ever seen all the way to the top. | 28m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Bizarre Contact
Hard bouldery crux at the bottom followed by a good rest and then a heady crux up top. 3 huge tufas mark this route on the right side of the wall near the 4 wheeler trail. Set: James Carse, 1998 | 18m, 9 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Not Fade Away
The crag classic and for good reason. A rising leftwards traverse on jugs and small crimps, where you will find a fingery boulder problem to finish. Classic PA. FA: Peter arbic | 15m | Skaha | ||
V5 | ★★ Trench Warfare
Sit start as for November, but move directly up and right to a sharp crimp then straight up to the juggy lip. Top out straight up on the slab using small crimps. | Calabogie | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Infectious
Radical bouldery climbing up the blunt arete featuring every kind of hold and move imaginable. FA: Porter Jarrard, 1991 | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Ceylan
A beautiful crimp fest for the first 5 bolts. | 22m, 8 | Jilotepec | ||
5.12b | ★★ Guppie
Rightmost route, starts on the dark rock with a high first bolt. The action starts after the obvious ledge. Permadraws except for first 3. | 29m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Pinch Fest
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12b | ★★★ The Suffering
Perma-draws FA: Blake Bowling, 2013 | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ La Gallina Negra
A balancey slab into a beautiful steep wave like feature. | 22m, 7 | Jilotepec | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Mantis
Just left of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Climb up the tufas into inclined rooflet, crank above this and don't pump out! | 35m, 15 | El Chonta | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Frenesí
Crimps all the way. Recommended to stick clip the first 2 bolts. | 14m, 6 | Jilotepec | ||
V5 | ★★★ Swank Stretch
Start seating on a flat jug. Using the thin slot to work up to better holds and top out FA: | 3m | Squamish | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Gung Ho
FA: Porter Jarrard & Mark Williams | 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Angeles caminando entre nosotros
Starts left of bush to anchor under roof. Set: Ulric Rousseau, 2011 | 31m, 12 | El Salto; C.d.G. | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Conflict
Follows the brown tufa to anchors below the ledge. | 25m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Mercy, the Huff
FA: Porter Jarrard & Chris Snyder, 1991 | 24m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★★ The Flingus Cling
| 18m | Squamish | ||
5.12b | ★★★ El Contrabajo
Endurance climbing on large stalactites and a marked crux lead to crimps and sidepulls through the upper wall. Starts on the small ledge with a bolt for the belayer. Climbs up the dihedral and the through huge white tufas. Anchors are high up in the roof. FA: christian ehlert Set: christian ehlert | 31m, 17 | Guadalcázar | ||
V5 | ★★ Tu Fabien Ça
The main line of the boulder. Sitting under the overhang, left hand on a good jug, right hand lower on an ok undercling. Dedicated to my friend Fabien. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
{AU} YDS:5.12b | ★★ Buff The Wood
Interesting but cruxy climbing, not quite as good as it’s left hand neighbour. FA: Jeff Moll, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Tomahawk
SDS with right hand on the arete and left hand in the lowest pocket. Softie. | Lac Beauchamp Park Boulders | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Tissue Tiger
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Acertijo
Uno de los mejores 5.12s de todo pericos, inicia con una secuencia compleja de pies, luego un descanso antes de salir del techo y de ahí es puro power endurance de regletas hasta la reunión. Video POV y beta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G5NU565Lt8 Video de José Hernández encadenando en Free solo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR0kJouU9ew | 20m, 8 | Los Pericos | ||
V5 | ★★ The Pearl
| Red Rock | |||
5.12b | ★★ Geometric Progression | 9m | Red Rock | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Thunder Struck
Starts on the leaning flake with the first 2 bolts on the slab. Then follows a small crack up, out right to good pockets and to a tough finish to the anchors. | 20m | New River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Orangahang
| Rumney | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Swedin-Ringle Route
| Indian Creek Canyon | |||
V5 | ★★★ Timeless
| Squamish | |||
5.12b | ★★ Ale-8-One
FA: Brian McCray, 1995 | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 33m, 11 | Rumney | ||
V5 | ★★★ Rythmix
SDS matched on biggest shelf. Go up to the good sloper and surf the arete. | Val-David | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Salvation
The most sort after 12B at Skaha. And for good reason! If the tons of mini cruxes don't pump you out, the final move to clip the anchor surely will! | 30m | Skaha | ||
V5 | ★★★ Té où?
Départ bien bas main gauche sur un pinch, talon et main droite sur la tablette. Top out à droite complètement avec un talon droit. | Val-David | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Habanero (First Pitch)
| El Potrero Chico | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Malditos Seres himenópteros
has a 3 bolt variation near the top | 27m, 10 | Ixcatan | ||
5.12b | ★★ Crack Babies
Steep, blunt arete to the right of Bloodshot. Steep bouldery jugging, unique for Smith! | 15m, 5 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Delicatessen
Much steepness and some difficulty on the left side of the most overhung part of the cave. FA: Dru Mack & Dustin Stephens | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
V5 | ★ Twisted by Design
Sit start from the obvious crimp at the base of the arête. Climb up the arête. | Calabogie | |||
V5 | ★★★ Gratte Cul
This is an eliminate that is worth trying. Same start as the previous line but continue traversing right by grabbing a sharp hold in the roof then a left pinch. Make a hard move right to eventually top out on a big shelf while eliminating the big horn of La Lèvre À Julien. | Eardley Escarpment | |||
5.12b | ★★★ The Prophet
| 20m | Red Rock | ||
5.12b | ★★ Plastic Jesus
| 18m | Horne Lake | ||
V5 | ★★ Perigee
Start in the lowest flake and moove up on crimps. Get a right heel hook and reach the holds of your choice for topout. Left arete is out. | Calabogie | |||
V5 | ★★★ Aminoguana
Sit start. Head up and and left, finish on good jug. Make sure to have a good spot for the rock at the start, and the tree at the end. | Peña de Bernal | |||
5.12b | ★★ Raising Cain
Perma draws from the 3rd bolt onwards. Set: todd goss | 17m, 9 | St. George | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Rain Dance
| Austin | |||
V5 | ★★ Le Fakir
Start matched both hands on round sloper. Go up following the prow. Detached rocks on the left are out. Benchmark V5+, super nice. | CEGEP Boulders | |||
V5 | ★★★ Gros Jambon
| Val-David | |||
5.12b | ★★ Hot Enough For Ya
Just left of Sausages be ready for crux at 3 bolt | 12m, 4 | Eardley Escarpment | ||
V5 | ★★★ Tim's sloper problem
| Squamish | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Chun Cha Ka
Large tufas and stalagtites lead to a final crux at the end. Set: christian ehlert | 25m, 8 | Guadalcázar | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★★ Celestial Omnibus
Bolted tufa left of the Bronco Bowls fixed rope. Get here by climbing Steel Pulse and the traversing all the way to the left anchors. | 10 | El Potrero Chico | ||
V5 | ★★★ Serengeti | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.12b | ★★ Tobacco Road
| 30m, 7 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.12b | ★★ Body Wax
| Austin | |||
5.12b | ★★ Street Knowledge
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Jade
The uber-classic test-piece 5.12- at Reimer's, besides Lipo. 12a, or 12b? There will never be a consensus! | Austin | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Cerbero
Just left of Quimera in similar style. Set: Erick López | 16m, 8 | La Meca | ||
5.12b | ★★ El Maestro de Ceremonias
| 30m, 11 | Jilotepec | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Forbiddance
| 30m, 16 | Maple Canyon | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Far From God
FA: 2004 | 25m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Chupi Bombon
Esta ruta es una de las clásicas de la pared, tiene un crux muy definido con un final de mucha resistencia en agarres muy chicos. FA: Jimmy Navarrete Set: Miguel de la Torre | 40m, 14 | La Presa | ||
5.12b | ★★★ El Fitomastigoforo
Set: Richi | 26m | Ixcatan | ||
5.12b | ★★ Bsss Ext
Inicia con una secuencia 5.11- de power endurance muy buena mejor conocida como "Bsss" luego de eso viene un slab v3 muy interesante para de ahi salir a un plano vertical con pies altos y agarres algo delicados. Las caidas en esa parte estan algo peligrosas y expuestas por lo que se recomienda usar cintas largas o darle sin miedo a la lesion. Terminando esa secuencia de 3 placas verticales se llega a un descanso grande para hacer un mantle y llegar a la reunión. | 25m, 12 | Los Pericos | ||
V4/5 | ★★ La Ballena
Sit-Start. Se trata de uno de los boulders más populares del sector "5. Trucha" por su fácil acceso y estética de la línea, que además es fácil de proteger. La guía propone V5 pero en realidad es más fácil. | 10m | El Chico | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Mr. Big
| 35m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.12b | ★★★ El cuarto elemento
| La Bufa | |||
V5 | ★★★ Prime Time Sit-down
Sit down start low and right on good jug for left hand then up features to mantel top out. Beautiful!! | 3m | Squamish | ||
5.12b | ★★ Cuarto Menguante
Trends left around the corner after the initial slab. Grado original de 12c puede aplicar si escalas recto entre bolts en la parte arriba. | 18m, 9 | Jilotepec | ||
V5 | ★★ Gatineau Special
Start as 'The Theorem' and move up and into 'Feature Press'. FA: DaveH, 2013 | 4m | Calabogie | ||
V5/6 | ★★★ Tigerlily
Sit start at the base of the obvious left facing corner. Climb it! Key foothold broke (again...) (originally V8). FA: 2000 | Calabogie | |||
V5 | ★★ Apogee
Start right of Orbital Insertion with your left hand on the sloping lip and right hand on a sidepull edge. Make a couple of hard moves up the blunt arete FA: 2006 | Calabogie | |||
V4/5 | ★★★ Clin d'oeil
Static or dynamic? | Val-David | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Abiyoyo
Starts off the right hand end of the ledge just to the right of the double bolts down low. Brilliant climbing on beautiful, rippled, yellow rock. Left from the perma-draw and up through some trickiness to glory above. | 30m | Red River Gorge | ||
V4/5 | ★★ L'express
FA: Éric Loranger, 2001 | Val-David | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Techosurfing
FA: Scott Stevenson & Alan Cattabriga, 1988 | 27m, 9 | Rumney | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Lost Arrow Spire Tip
| 76m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V5 | ★★★ Viper
| Squamish | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Speaking In Tongues
A 5-star sloper jug workout. Start up NBD and head up and left after the knee-bar hueco. Set: michal nad | 10 | St. George | ||
V5 | ★★ Unnamed V5
FA: Jesse Cameron | Acadia National Park | |||
5.12b | ★★ Strangle Hold
| Austin | |||
V5 | ★★ Le Masochiste
An excellent line on Squamish style crystals. Start at the bottom left of the boulder, matched on a huge shelf. Traverse right and top out to the left of the tree. | Plateau Boulder | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★ Unknown Left of Twister
| La Huasteca | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Swamp Gator
FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014 | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Bone Factory
Starts with a long slab to a first bolt at about 8 meters. The first vertical part is the crux followed by easier but sustained climbing to high anchors. FA: Edgardo Baca | 30m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ||
5.12b | ★★★ In the Bubble
The steep, crimpy face right of Trekking to India. FA: Shaun Bent, 2007 | 6 | Sully's Hangout | ||
V5 | ★★★ Palpable Tension
FA: Ken flagg | 4m | Calabogie | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Reliquary
| 9m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12b | ★★ Garras Ext
Continúa después de "Garras" poniendo una placa de la reunión más otras 5 placas y reunión. Secuencias interesantes de placa, grieta y slab. | 30m, 13 | Los Pericos | ||
5.12b | ★★★ A Prince Amongst Thieves
FA: Peter WInter | 25m, 8 | Squamish | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Moonraker
| 25m | Horne Lake |