Routes as ice in Nordland

This line tackles the gully on the broken face to the right of Reinesvæt

Route descriptions here:

http://www.ntk.no/topo/nordveggen-digertinden/

https://www.alpineadventures.no/single-post/2017/03/20/And-the-journey-goes-on

Not much information available. It´s left of Den Norske Sor-Afrika Linja and is pictured in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. Low resolution topo here

Right of Den Norske Sor-Afrika Linja and left of the American route, this line does not top out (escaping right at the upper amfi)

Route description here: http://alpinklatring.blogspot.com/2013/03/stjerntinden-frste-vinterbestigning.html

Images here:

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Described in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014 and the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet, Topos here & here

Topo

Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo

Described by Mårten Blixt in the Lofoten Alpin article in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014. There´s a low resloution topo

Classic ice line forming in gully above the road approximately 1km from Sundklakkbrua. Faces the sun so unlikely to be in season from late jan/early feb (i.e when the sun returns). Abalakov desent.

If you know the name, please update.

A great mixed line which stays in season longer than the WI5 to the right.

Directly above the 815/E10 intersection. Steep snow with sections of watefall ice.

Mixed line above Sandvika with many possible variations to the summit. The ice here seems to form slower than the other surrounding routes. Be prepared for classic Lofoten mixed climbing with sections of rock, ice and moss.

There is a GPX and photo of one variation available here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4651430624

Formation below Varden/Anderstinden & above the 815 approximately 3.5km South from Sundklakkbrua. Visible from Henninsvær, forms early & seemingly can stay in condition late into the season (march/early April).

The approach exposes you to avalanche terrain; Caution required. Snowshoes or skis handy.

`Follows a long chimney then through a tunnel with a big rock structure above´

Follows natural weakness left of Around the edge.

Located on buttress to the right of Around the edge. Topo and some images here

If conditions are mild, some ice forms on the Northern end of Unstad (Kleivheia). Some images here:

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Park near Steinsfjorden & walk along the coast until an easy gully appears. Solo up this. Climb the superb steep water ice. The remainder of the route is described as ´thin ice, interesting mixed climbing and frozen moss´.

Descend to the South East.

Topo and further description here

Some images here:

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Location and images here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4679406358

Abalakov descent

Abalakov descent. Some images

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Abalakov descent

The waterfall line that forms on the cliffs above the 816 midway between Rørvika beach carpark and the Rørvika point pullout. P1) The initial pillar leads to a lower angle slope with a tree belay P2) Traverse left to the next pillar. Belay/rapp from trees

Depending on conditions, various ice/mixed lines in the WI1-WI4 range form above Rørvikvannet. Access by parking at Glomtind veien, walking across the lake.

GPX file and some photos here: https://www.strava.com/activities/4640944797

Descend via Djupfjord

This line ascends the couloir between stor and lille Festvåg and up to a false summit of Festvågtind (which is not visible from the road). Easy descent via gully of store Festvåg.

This line, likely an old Arild Meyer route, ascends the West couloir. The approach involves 150m of snow and low angled ice. Descend by exiting up the ramp to the left. Once the ridge is gained traverse East (some exposed sections) to reach the Festvågtind summit. Take short screws & single rack of cams.

Alternative finish to Venstre side. Begins below the striking steep corner (which is visible from the road). The first pitch traverses right then up to 2 fixed pitons. Move out right from the the fixed belay & up to the base of the frozen waterfall. From here, ascend the frozen waterfall (2 pitches).

Some images here-

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Pitch 2 alternative to Running from Wuhan. From the fixed belay, make a delicate traverse left around the arete where harder climbing with extremely poor protection leads to the base of the hanging waterfall.

This route is likely best attempted when the frozen waterfall reaches as close as possible to the couloir.

The right couloir. Sections of lower angle ice (60/70 degrees) lead to a steep snow slope finish (90 degrees).

A direct finish up the open book corner system. It would appear this line has not seen an ascent.

1. Climb the left facing corner to a bulge then trend right to a small stance under a left trending hand crack.

2. Some hard moves initially traversing out left then easier climbing back right to another left facing corner. Belay at the top of this (good ledge)

3. From the corner, trend left to the summit.

Descent: Scramble down the ramp in the direction of the Festvåg hiking trail.

Some images:

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A topo and route description is available from Norsk Tindeklubb- http://www.ntk.no/topo/aint-too-proud-to-pray/

An often eyed, rarely climbed & highly prized line with difficulty varying wildly depending on conditions. Can be serious. The approach & descent exposes you to avalanche terrain.

For a description and background on the routes history, see 2013 edition Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring, low resolution image here.

There´s also a trip report

A route description and topo is available on the AAC here

A description of this climb can be found on the AAC

Some description and images

Described in the 2009 AAC article Lofoten, International Winter Meet, [topo here][https://aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/articles/aaj-12201022000-1410349367.jpg)

On the opposite side of the valley from Centre linje, an excellent line forms on the ridgeline back from Gårdstinden (in the direction of Stortinden). Abalakov descent

Some images-

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Some images here

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This line forms under Stortinden and roughly follows a drainage contour from Andrevatnet, ending on the summit of peak 682. The route is broken into 3 sections of frozen waterfall ice, usually climbed with a running belay up to good ledges. The final pitch is steep (85 degrees).

Poorly protected in the upper sections. Top out on Fløya then follow the hiking trial to descend.

Pick a suitable tree to retreat

Norsk Tindeklubb has a description and topo available

The original 2008 first ascent is located on the right hand side of the face.

A direct finish to the original line up the wall.

This line is located on the north side. There is a trip report here

Given a Scottish grade of IX 10.

There are some photos and descriptions here and here

Topo and images

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Images and descriptions:

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Some information here

Visible from the road, this line follows the prominent couloir. Norsk Tindeklubb has a description available

The original line, some information here

Abalakov descent

Claimed by seperate French & British teams but climbed earlier by the locals. There´s a topo in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring 2014.

A line right of Norwegian Route has been climbed by the locals

Another line climbed by locals right of Norwegian Route and left of the Norwegian-Slovenian Route

The AAC has a freey available topo

Route tackling the obvious weakness. Possibly (likely?) climbed earlier.

Accessed via couloir immediately South of the Buttress in the Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring and AAC Topos.

Some images here

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Located on the West face Nonstinden (near Storå). Rapp via trees

Located on the NW face Middagshaugen. Rapp via trees

To the right of blå. Rapp via trees

Located on the south face Høgfjellet. Walk off descent (or ski)

Located on the south face Høgfjellet. Walk off descent

Located in forkledalen.

Located in Ingelsfjord

2 rapps to descend (trees then a bolted station)

2 rapps to descend (trees then a bolted station)

Walk off descent (NE)