Ascents in Oceania by Nick Morgan

Probably the best mini route I've ever done. Class...and surprisingly worth the faff. If only it was 10x bigger!!

Classic link up. All clean till the second last bolt - then upward from there placing all the gear along the way. Ripper

Gave it a fair whirl but couldn't last the top crux moves. Felt tricky for the grade. Great climb & position.

Good for something a little different if you've climbed Deathrow a few times already...or just prefer bolts. Nice short sequence

Had a double length runner pre-placed on the third bolt to keep things sane. Some funky unlikely movement.

Great route. Cooked the crux

Sat once at second bolt. Then clean to top. 5 bolts plus an old carrot and a piton. Not really any other useful gear but the harder climbing is off the bolts. Sweet stuff.

First burn to figure out sequences. Hard to read initially.

Stupid foot slip after the crux. Rap in pre climb and put an extender on 3rd bolt or risk hitting the deck. Really cool long sequences

Cool route. Don’t forget a couple of small/mid cams and some extendable draws

Another really good climb! Nice arete and face moves up to final big punch. Hopefully finish this one off soooon!!

x4 attempts today..one close hitting final hold but just not getting the setup quite perfect..harder than I first thought hey 😅

Couple of toppy laps after work

Harder than I remember. Mega. x2 laps

Lots of fun. Still felt spicy at the start!!

Not as nice as the RH route and a little contrived at the start.

Pearler of a position up high on the arete. One of the best in the gorge. Draws pre-placed on bolts, all trad gear placed on lead. Yiieww!

Not bad. Tried to avoid RH crack/wall originally but without seems a little ridiculous. No anchor that I could find so lowered off final bolt.

This old line scrubbed up way better than expected. Engaging climbing the whole way. Shame it doesn’t continue similar to the top (completely blanks out after the anchor for like 3 meters) but potentially possible, and would be an impressive feat to see it go. Happy with how it turned out, and to have another moderately graded sport route with nice movement and exposure. Definitely consider a stick clip (may need another bolt), and don’t forget bolt plates.

To clean draws

Looks like shit, climbs like a dream. Stoked to get this one. Gear and long draw on second bolt left on from previous attempt.

Sweet climb! Committing feeling moves even with the draws on. Would be pretty heady going ground up placing the carrots and gear.

First try today! Great line which kinda just needs a rebolt to make it classic..

Finally stuck the move off the ledge. Carrots and draws pre-placed

An absolute belter! Doesn’t get much better in the gorge. Nice one to aim for

Sussing out some goodness for the bolted bits. Up to final bolt only

Stick clips give you power when second bolts look scary. Led most of it to get a TR up.

Can do all the moves, but they are pretty punchy all linked together. 2nd bolt is OK if clipped low/early..moving past it will place you on the ledge if you fall. x2 TR laps. Another nice route!

Couldn’t bring it all together..sneakily creepin on the pump. So good!!

Brutal pocket rocket crux. Enjoyment may be biased from getting spanked..

Class! Two and a half stars. Worth coming back for…take a .4 grey cam for the break

Worth doing. Standard hangers fit. The crack at the start is great, into a hard move off the ledge.

Almost a classic. One of the better aretes on this side of the river. Balancy moves on good holds leading into an exciting finish.