Routes in Oceania by sorensen

An excellent lead for the grade. Just left of the Arete from Maiden Voyage, start-up the corner / hand-crack on excellent holds, then traverse left into the splitter hand-crack and follow this to the top. Lower-off.

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

A classic roof problem.

Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs

1. 36m (24) (crux) Tough thin crack splitting middle of roof, follow crack to belay stance.

2. 41m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

A circular exercise out of 'Hermes' roof to join 'Thor'. Move left from under the roof, around the lip and up a groove then back right to the belay.

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.