Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V1 | ★★ Eastern Bloc Arete
Up the overhanging arete on jugs and slopers. Perhaps the best V1 of the Frontline! Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Sloper-Dan Milosevic
Sit start low and move through beautiful slopers to roof and finish up jugs. The best problem in the Balkans? FA: Rob Saunders | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ Berlin Blockade
Sit start at the small cave. Move right and up to top. | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★ The Pincer Movement
Sit start, pinch, squeeze and wiggle your way up the knife edge arete. FA: Saxon Johns | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Point of View
Up layaway arete. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Bangers
Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0- | ★ M.A.S.H.
Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Frontrow
Up over bulge on big holds. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 R | ★ Choppers
Start 1m right of 'Point of View' and go straight up. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V2 | ★★ Diplomatic Solution
Sit start at the arete with butt on the ground and hands on the shelf. There is lots of sitting on your arse for this one! Sit down for the first jug, then up, have a seat for the next move, up again and over … sterling! FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V2 | ★★ Golden Streak
| 4m | Arapiles | ||
V5 | ★★★ Epsilon Crack
Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug. | 4m | Flat Rock | ||
V2 | ★ The V2 Sit
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town
| 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V1 | ★ Choppers II
Climb left of the flake | 6m | The Balkans | ||
V7 | ★★★ Boogie Knights
As 'Boogie Knights (Original)', but exiting right of the horn via jugs as on 'Sloper-Dan Milosevic'. Significantly easier finish than the original. Start: Sit FA: Matt Wilder | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★★ Bill Smith | 3m | Forestville | ||
V0 | ★★ Sydney Highrise
Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out). | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★★ Two Big Moves
Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up. | 4m | Nowra | ||
V3 | ★★ Wiggly Boy
Location: The Wiggly Boulder. Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area. | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V4 | ★★ 4:45
Sit start on the low flake and climb straight up to top out. Several ways to work on your hands. Well featured problem and you'll wish it kept going. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★★ And Then There Was Red
Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out. | 4m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Violent Crumble
Just down the hill below the main boulder of The Eastern Bloc. Start at the back of the cave, head out following the biggest jugs you can find to a mantle. Careful of the cracked footer on the left. Start: Sit. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ Crewcut
Start on pocket and then go up left and top out around ramp. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ Lygon St Massacre
Sit start low on a crimp and input edge. Climb the central line up the technical slab to top out over its peak. A classic for the grade! | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V7 | ★★ The Show Must Go On
Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug. This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall. | 5m | Flat Rock | ||
V3 | ★ Curtain Call
Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start. 'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right. | 2m | Flat Rock | ||
V3 R | ★★ Mission Impossible
Up the crack finishing left. Quite a sting in its tail unless you're tall. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V1 | ★ Cat's Meow
Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall. | 6m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V4 | ★★ The Bilge
Start on flake then pocket and up to slot and mantle over. Start: Sit FA: Will Holbrook | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★ The Warm Up
Start matched on the ledge on the left side of the wall, and head straight up. Harder if you do the very low undercling move to start. FA: Duncan Brown | 3m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V2 | ★★ Lazarus
Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4 FA: Alex Turnbull, 2013 | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★★★ Pipe Dreams
Eponymous super classic left-to-right traverse under the roof and topping out boulder. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V3 | ★★ Underground Movement
Start on crimps, then go left to the good pocket and up to the top. FA: Jason Whitton | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V7 R | ★★★ Paratroopin
Traverse right out lip of cave to tough mantle then finish up easy slab. FA: Rob Saunders | 7m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Sick Nutter
Sit start on the massive juggy pocket and move up passing a bad RH sloper FA: Nick Sutter | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V5 | ★★★ Wish You Were Here
Obvious crag classic! Sit start on the right side of the cave. Head left via some funkiness to top out up the ramp. | 5m | Jannali Reserve | ||
V1 | ★ 10
Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets. High; bolts on top. | 5m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V4 | ★★ Dead Calm
Stand start on big undercling on the far left of the roof. Climb rightward to top out on the nice sidepull feature. Tsz Ying Yau | 3m | Black Cave | ||
V1 | ★ A?
Follow the flake through the rooflet. Cave is out. Watch the topout FA: Tim O'Neill | 4m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Unknown
Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 4m | Nowra | ||
V0 | ★ Duck's Nuts
Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up. | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V5 | ★★★ Anorexic
One of the best problems of this grade & style. Start at the back wall and pull straight out the roof, passing the big hole, make a long throw and finish MATCHED on the huge jug. FA: T.O'Neill, 2000 | 4m | Killarney Heights | ||
V2 | ★★ Child of Love
Sit start in slot on the arete. | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V1 | ★★ 5
There's a trick to this one. Up the next set of overlaps. Again, avoid the chipped foothold. | 3m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V3 | ★ Bee's Knees
Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs. | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Gravel Pit
Start on jug at bottom left of cave, traverse right then up on thin face holds, before powerful move to gain big finishing jug. FA: Daniel Gordon, 2013 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★★ The Pillar | 2m | Forestville | ||
V6 | ★★★ Aquarius
Traverse right to left as for Cruel Sea into the heuco, but then cut out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out. Kiu Hei Chu | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso (No cut beta) | 7m | Black Cave | ||
V4 | ★★ Diplomatic Immunity
Sit start low in the chalked break on jugs then into the vertical seam, contort yourself (unless short) then up and slightly left to top out. FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Slappers Arete
The left arete. Stand start on opposing side-pulls past a pinch to top out. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V4 | ★★ Pinche and the Brain
Stand start from the caved-in part of boulder with your body pushing towards the rock. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ Encore
Sit start on the curving crack. Move left using pockets and crimps. Traverse into the higher of the two rails and finish as for "The Show Must Go On" FA: Michael Tonon | 6m | Flat Rock | ||
V3 | ★ Tanks a Lot
Start on 2f pocket and rounded crimp then straight up over the sloping bulge. Rightmost climb before the corner. Stay right of the good crimps out left. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V5 | ★★★ Anonymous Arete
The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish. | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V3 | ★★ Jugalicious
Sit start and finish on an obvious jug at the arete. FA: Glen Jones | 5m | Queanbeyan area | ||
V1 | ★ You Go Slow
Mantle on the slopers and then balance to the top. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Crack
Stand-start using the right leaning crack, head straight-up to finish with a big move to the hold under the roof. One of the classic problems of the area. | 4m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ Cave Party
Start at the right side V5 and straight up. Heel hooked and feet off the adjacent rock for the full grade. Good warm up for the V4. FA: unknown Set: al bradley & Al Bradley, 15 Sep 2017 | 2m | Black Cave | ||
V0- | ★ The usual descent
| 5m | Arapiles | ||
V2 | ★★★ The Overhang
| 6m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V5 | ★★★ Antiquity
The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic FFA: Rob Saunders, 1992 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
★★★ The Michael Berry Squeeze
| 5m | Arapiles | |||
V0 | ★ Golden Arete
Sit start and climb the line up the right side of the wall using the arete and good holds on the face. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V1 | ★ 9 - Walkdown Crack
It's a crack so try to jam - if you can't jam you can use the holds on either side of the crack. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V2 | ★★ Bonsai Right
| 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★ Little Buddha | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★ The Animator
| 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V3 | ★★ V2 Traverse
Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V1 | ★ Check Your Traps
Sit start on the slot. | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V5 | ★★★ Mr Smiley
M1, R2, L3, R4, L5, M5, R6, M6 Start low and left with your right in the 3/4 finger pocket and lunge for the first hold. A classic although the start holds are often wet. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V2 | ★★ Some Days You Bore
Sit start on the jugs on the arete. | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V2 | ★ Jugs 2 Ring
Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug. | 3m | Nowra | ||
V1 | ★★ Blinky Bill
From the elliptical hold in the back of the roof, move left into and finish up 'Bill Smith'. | 5m | Forestville | ||
V0 | ★ 6 - The Layback Crack
The layback crack. Layback on its right side or jam it. | 4m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V6 | ★★★ Bring It On
The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems. Start: Sit FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders? | 12m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ Lay Down Your Arms
Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'l'Homme Obu'), then up left to juggy break then straight up. FA: Rob Saunders | 5m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★★ Faith
Sitstart at the flake, following it up and reach up to the ledge. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★ Fashion
RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V4 | ★★ Arm and a Leg
Sit start on the blocky horizontal at the edge of the roof. Move up on good holds and veer left on good edges on the face and top out 1-2m right of As the Crow Flies. | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V3 | ★★★ The Overhang Traverse
Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall. | 6m | Palm Beach Boulders | ||
V4 | ★★ A horse is a horse
Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of 'Spanking the Monkeybars') | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★★ Evac
FA: Simon Weill | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V1 | ★ Ass Backwards
Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs. | 3m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V2 | ★ Running Commentary
Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | Halls Gap Area | ||
V2 | ★★ Have A Proper Gander
You'd better scope out the top of this one first! Up horizontal breaks to lovely rounded holds on top. Start: Sit FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V4 | ★★ Star-Jug Destroyer
Sit start below “Jabba the promiscuous space slug” on the middle of the rail. Straight up, veering right to finish matched on “Gravel Pit” jug. FA: Phil Beattie, 2013 | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V1 | ★ The Upside
Sit start on hidden double undercling jug in roof and up cool scoops to top out above. FA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★★ Classic high arete
| 7m | Arapiles | ||
V4 | ★★ Burnt
Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps. | 4m | Nowra | ||
V1 | ★ European Cave Man
Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out. | 3m | White Rock Conservation Area | ||
V3 | ★ The Lindfield Traverse - 1
The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is 3. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse. | 12m | Lindfield Rocks | ||
V1 | ★ Bomb Shelter
Right of yellow streak and up overhung boulder FA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V3 | ★★ Bonsai
| 2m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V5 | ★★★ Out of the Bleau
Sit start on slopey edge. Make a hard move up left to a slopey edge and continue to top out as for White Destiny. Bring a brush!! V4 Stand Start, V5 Sit Start | 4m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Joker
A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds. FA: Chris Warner | 4m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
V1 | ★ Groovy
Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns. | 4m | Toohey Forest | ||
V2 | ★ Copo Cabana
Right side of the pillar to a high finish on the pebbly jug. Pretty good. | 3m | Forestville | ||
V6 | ★★ Who Killed The Kennedys
Sit start, out the middle of the roof finishing left over the rounded lip. FA: Rob Saunders, 2000 | 3m | The Balkans | ||
V0 | ★ Meteor
Sit start. Follow pockmarks straight up the face and top out. | 3m | Toohey Forest |