Routes as trad in Oceania

Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. Finish as for FE (with the grotty corner and dodgy rap tree).

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

Just right of Sasha. Up the obvious flake, then left around the bulge along the obvious line.

Good climbing. The gear is adequate but very fiddly; it regularly sees gear-popping falls.

Start 2m L of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

Shares French Revolution's first bolt.

Up orange wall then R to vertical seam.

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious.

Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top.

Australia's first grade 19! The major corner on the right side of the amazing orange wall. A trad classic, but it needs a bit (heaps!) of gardening, especially the top half which has even got major trees in the last 20m. Easily done in 2 pitches by linking pitches 1&2, and pitches 3&4. Or you can rap off after pitch 1. Add style points if you do it in the original fashion - with the rope tied around the waist and a total of only 9 pieces of lead pro.

1. 20m (19) Technical stemming corner with excellent protection. When the greenery gets too much, traverse left to belay ledge and DRB belay (shared with Ben Trovato).

2. 13m (17) Up shale corner, step right onto arete and up front of juggy detached pillar to large belay ledge. (Memorial Direct variant 32m (~21). The obvious direct continuation of the 1st pitch corner. Instead of traversing left at greenery, simply plug in a nest of gear and launch up the corner and face options that deliver you eventually at some good gear and then up to the large belay ledge atop the original pitch 2. Vertrees and Prior, 2013).

3. 33m (19) Bridge and jam the corner. The original belay was a "bolt anchor 15' diagonally to right", but the tree is actually a lovely little belay spot.

4. 12m Corner to top, good tree belay.

The last technical pitch to lead on your way back from doing Pole Dancer etc. Nice short handcrack down low then the highlight is the 3D chimneying into the bowels of the earth.

Good long climb but the middle section is nothing special.

Start on a platform below a seam about 30 metres right of the left edge of the face and 20 metres left of a deep line (Driftwood).

1. 30m (17) Hard start into crack. When crack peters out step up to thread in flake at 10 metres (this bit is shared with Creon). Get some runners, don't rely only on the fragile-looking thread, then traverse right under bulge, veer up right for 4 metres then straight up to belay at old bolt. Not a lot of good protection after the thread.

2. 45m (13) Up broken area to big ledge and on up to 'Rotten Row'.

3. 42m (14) Climb black bulge then smooth wall to bolt. On up face to left end of sloping ledge and up left to bigger ledge.

4. 30m (16) Step right and up small, left-facing corner to the roof. Take flake through ceiling with hard move at lip. Easily up. Original finish took steep flake directly above belay (17) and then up through overhangs.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

The right-hand crack line on Upper Baldy. Four pitches with P2 being the crux. Most climb it in two pitches but it was originally climbed in four. Start up the left (diagonal) crack off the top of the huge treed pillar (as shown in topo), although traversing the lip to the RH (vertical) crack has also been done. Once on top, the Stiletto abseil anchors (DRB) are only 15m to your left (west), it's 2 45m abseils back to the halfway ledge.

One of the more worthwhile climbs of its height in Canberra. The crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall.

Start: The 'line' right of 'No Turn Unstoned'

A good alternative finish to "Lamplighter". It originally had it's own second pitch, diverging left from "Lamplighter" after 8 metres, but it was fairly worthless.

Start: Start at the second belay of "Lamplighter".

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameter; brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

Follow lefthand weakness through bulge then move left and climb the pencil-thin crack through the overlap and beyond.

Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade. Careful of loose rock.

Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay.

First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors.

Start as for 'Adam's Rib'.

From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete.

Grunt and bridge up the dark corner to the R of PP. From there easily to the chains above PP. The climbing is good, but a little grunty. The gear is really good, but can be awkward and strenuous to place for a novice leader.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner.

P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt, clip next bolt then head up to small ledge and 3BB.

P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2.

The nice square cut corner, above the fixed rope. A great beginner trad lead - take med-large cams. Best to belay/lower off anchor on Uncle Amy on the right - otherwise top out onto loose ledge and belay off single RB and tree way back.

Awesome first pitch, best to continue up the direct finish Start: 18m right of HDYGG.

3 excellent and varied pitches on generally great rock. This is amongst the best longer routes at the grade in the Blueys.

1. 35m (18) Short slab to arete, stylishly up this (2 BRs + natural gear) to comfortable ledge (RBs). A few big cams and a purple camalot are good for the crux bulge.

2. 10m (18) Up to traverse line (old BR), airy dangle right (RB) to small belay ledge (BBs). Rope cut potential for the second if they fall off after unclipping the RB (see warning).

3. 35m (13) Climb dinnerplates up and left to arete then up lovely exposed grey slab to top (gear, BRs, RB belay).

Walk off right (faint trail), or abseil down corner on right (facing out) with double 60m ropes. Don't attempt to abseil to the first belay ledge as you'll end up hanging in space.

Rebolted in 2001 with stainless steel glue-ins.

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

The easy crack. Plenty of gear.

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

Popular. Start in a small recess just right of a large pillar directly below the roof pitch of 'Hermes'.

1. 32 metres - Climb the slabs and ledges to a tree, then up the crack and wall to a good ledge. Up the slab using the leftwards slanting crack to a grassy ledge and tree belay ('Hermes' second belay).

2. 18 metres - Pleasant. Start from a belay at big blocks 15 metres to the right of the tree, climb a short wall, pull through the hanging flakes and the corner above, then up a rib on the left of a gully. Tree belay.

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware! Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of Turquoise. Over bulge and follow weakness up left to ledge. Move right and up corner, crossing Turquoise then straight up middle of right wall, bold to get established, then short hand-crack.

Start 5m R of Red Parrot Chasm on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

Face left of "Armageddon" to orange bulge which is turned on right. The bulge has been taken direct at 20 via a line half a metre left of this one.

1. 10m (10) Up chimney past big chockstone to ledge with double carrot bolt belay.

2. 15m (18) Impressive steep handcrack corner to precarious traverse under roof. Double U bolt belay.

Up crack 1.5m left of ST, then up of blunt arete.

Start at the top left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the Reaper Buttress page).

1. 30m 12. Up the wide crack then through sculpted territory, eventually stepping left to rap anchor on ledge.

2. 20m 11. Finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the 2008 Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touches ground though.

When climbers stare up at this crack/trench route they invariably mutter "old school" and move right along. It is in fact a pretty good romp and you will use the full bag of climbing tricks. Despite the good climbing, it is not suitable for learning to place protection, as it can be a bit tricky. Start: left of Integral and Equanimity.

Climb 'Vulcan' to the flake. You can clip the third bolt of Tina the Ballerina from Pasadena and the second bolt of Barbra Streisand (or go full trad).Go R and around arete, then follow the crack in the upper L wall.

Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1'

Take the easiest way up the face. Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully). Short corner then (crux) traverse 4-5m L (nasty pendulum potential for the seconder), to gain the nice easy crack to the summit. There's also a more direct start about 6m further L which is a little harder and not as well protected, but with much reduced pendulum potential.

This climb should never have existed. Directly below HS is a large hole in the ground. If you are totally bored, and have run out of pencils to poke in your eyes, lower into this pit of despair and climb back out. Poor protection completes this climb's classy credentials!

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

Up Blind Justice to slab, across R into corner, then R to the arete (not great pro till towards the top of the arete), up arete to top of State of Shock. Belay from DBR on State of Shock.

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

Corner and hand crack.

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Start: Crack system to the L, around arete of Brown Madonna.

1. 26m (18) Crack to corner

2. 36m (18) Crack to 1 m below bush, then traversee L to arete and up.

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

Start as for 'Unprofessional Conduct', moving up past a BR and RB to chains.

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.

1. 35m (13) Up Hurricane Lamp Cracks, stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance. Take care with a large loose block on the right here as you prepare to start the next pitch.

2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace, ending at double bolt belay. It is possible to abseil or walk off from here (and most people do).

Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...

1. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

2. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of French Crack.

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R edge of the wall.

Left arete of Bernutts block.

Seriously awesome corner crack feature. Originally done in two pitches, these days it's usually done in one. Unless you like bumping gear, two #4 and a few #3 camalots are recommended.

To access, scramble down Burston’s gulley (or rap off a tree at the top with a 60m rope).

Up the dirty looking start to ledge, then into the corner. Follow the crack to roof, with memorable moves around right, then follow seam to tree belay.

1. 50m (17)

2. 50m (18)

3. 10m

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

Classic twin parallel crack system with an undercut start. DBB

The finger crack 4m left of the right arete of Turkey Walls. Climb the wall and intermittent cracks (wires for protection) then launch up the superb finger crack. DRB lower off.

Up the corner from the natural belay bench. Challenging, sustained, airy climbing with good gear.

1. 48m (16) Follow the crack to the first belay ledge, 10m below the roof.

2. 32m (18) Jam through the roof to a ledge and continue up the finger crack and above to an easier finish.

Rap from DBB anchors (2 raps).

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

The crack line, wide at the top. Apparently, if you grab the tree you're cheating.

The original climb followed the upper roof-line all the way left until it ends at a short corner. An amusing concept that no-one can be bothered repeating. Stick to the first pitch as described.

Slab climbing that is 'a little more serious' than 'Denathor' due to the scarce (but solid) protection on the second pitch. Start as for 'Denethor' (or skip the first pitch and start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna).

1. 30m - Climb the short, hard slab, bulge and slabby corner above (as for 'Denethor) but instead of sticking right in the corner, head straight up the slab above a small overlap. Belay at the flake or on the ledge to the right.

2. 45m - Up the juggy brown slab trending left to where the holds vanish, make a delicate move left to a small ledge. Up leftwards for 7m to a scooped recess. Follow shallow right-facing curving corners diagonally up and leftwards to double bolt belay next to a pointed block (shared with 'Steele Breeze' and 'Metal Fatigue').

3. 47m - Climb the slab to the highest corner on the right side of the overlap. Up the short corner (possible to belay here), move right over blocks then trend right up the easy slabs to belay on a large bushy ledge.

Most people skip the average first pitch and walk up the gully to the left to gain the ledge. Start 29m right of 'Penney Ante'. 1) Arete and slab below short compact wall. Up to big bush ledge. 2). Move up R off the ledge to take the left side of the wall, a few metres right of the arete, following a subtle scoop line past 3 bolts (brackets required).

The first line you see along the path. An excellent hand crack, now to a bolt belay metres from a tree.

Start 10m Right of 'SPQR'.

The rotten line.

A classic wall, thin crack to rooflet and awkward mantle finish. DRB lower off. The upper part of the loose pillar has been removed in 2021, unearthing a good hand crack for gear. The lower part of the pillar vibrates but seems solid. Considered a sandbag at 19 by most people, was a test piece of the 80s.

Steep one meter right of the final head wall and climb the steep cracks.

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

The corner and crack system in the middle of the short steep wall.

The obvious corner crack and roof system. Climb the finger crack around two roofs to the double bolt belay.

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

An exciting face climb that is very sustained. Start as for WoI, and move left at the FH. Up past 2nd FH then back R to a 3rd FH then loweroffs (30m).

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.

Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

1. 33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then: The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton. Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.

2. 24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

3. 26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.

4. 33m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.

An average sandbag squeeze job.

The bolted line between 'Hadrian' and 'Big Ears'. Rebolted May 2023 by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

The first climb to be put up at the Coke Ovens.

Start 12m right of MO at small twin corners.

1. 27m (14**) Up easily to big tree at foot of crack. Follow crack directly up to 3-stemmed tree on good ledge & belay on tree.

2. 33m (13) Easily up into cave. Move right onto arete, then directly up crack to large tree in crack, Around tree without killing your belayer by dropping rubble, up arete and wall on right to tree belay.

1. 34m (15) Up lovely corner to two bolt belay/lower off. Takes many #2 & 3 camalots. Watch rope length when descending off first pitch! You can make it on a single 60m doubled if you swing over towards decline and fall.

2. 9m (17)

3. 13m (-)

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'.

While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB.

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.