Routes in Romania for selected grade

Edit 28.05.2023: broke a key crimp just before the jug used for clipping the top. About 1/4 of the hold remained intact, but this makes it an intermediate at best, turning the last move for the final jug into a dyno, even for tall people, making the final part of the route much more difficult.

A highly aesthetic multipitch climb - balancy, oftentimes crimpy slab spiced with the occasional crack and topped with an airy roof traverse. Mandatory grade (assuming aiders) is 6a, since any portion harder than that is bolted densely enough to be artificially bypassed.

P1: easy, slightly grassy slab on good holds: start up and then head slightly left on an easy dihedral. Belay on a comfortable ledge. 40m, 4c

P2: the original version climbs a crack to the left to the top of a large slab, then heads up a more technical face, then traverses to the right following a crack, which then heads straight up, easing up significantly, until it reaches a mostly-suspended belay. 40m, 5c. The direct version heads straight up, a bit to the right and then up and left to the base of the crack traverse, on more technical face (6b mandatory)

P3: Head straight up and right on a grassy ledge, then slightly leftwards and straight up, on a mix of technical slab and small cracks to a comfortable belay. 40m, 6a+/6a A0

P4: Traverse a few m to the left then follow a crack up and right, traverse to the base of another crack on a delicate slab, then follow the second crack upwards before a small right traverse and heading upwards on technical slab to a ledge at the base of a roof. 45m, 6b/6a A0

P5: Head up and right to the notch in the roof, on a slightly overhanging and very well protected face, then traverse on the edge of the notch, around the left corner, to the crux of the route (a 7a face that is, however, bolted tightly enough to allow an easy aider bypass or a harder French-free one) before reaching easier terrain and topping out to either a bolted belay on the lip of the rock or a comfortable trees/boulders belay on the flat ground above. 30m, 7a/6a A0/5a A1

New grading according to routesetter and latest ascensionists.

Stand start

When climbing the whole route until the second top.

A different style of line with a technical start. When you reach the roof you can either traverse into Bulibasa to the right (easier) or stem up and left and traverse the far wall going left, eventually finishing on the same anchors (harder).

An interesting traverse line that starts way in the back of the front mini-cave on the right. Watch where you belay, there's a massive hole with a nasty drop where it starts. Finishes on the same anchors at Tambal.

A solid route with a kickass overhanging crux and a butt-puckering finish. Depending on your strengths this could feel hard for the grade, or somewhat easy.

Not done with perfect beta, feels like a hard 6b