Routes in Singapore

Start on the 8mm crimp side pull and go straight up.

Sit start with no arête. Start by left hand on side crimp and right hand gaston on the low crimp.

Sit start inside the cave on the crimp and climb out, continuing Andy Hulk.

Start on the lowest crimp then climb and top out.

Start from side-pull and crimp. Do not use separate rock on bottom left as a foothold and do not use top edge (top out on top left corner). (Update: left foot chip for starting is gone, may be due for an upgrade)

Same start as Grinch, travers right and top out on right side.

Fun compression with some big but easy moves to top.

FA Peter Zhang, 27 June 2021

Do it from the sit.

Sit start on the nice crimp on the left, move up to top ledge and traverse all the way right and top out. Potential for falls when topping out, ensure it is well padded and have someone to spot you!

Start to the far right on large side-pull, traverse to the left then top out.

Start on right crimp and lower left sloper, climb up the edge and top out.

Start from side-pull and crimp. Do not use separate rock on bottom left as a foothold.

Start on incut to the right of Grinch, head straight up and top out while avoiding the ledges used for Grinch.

Start to the right of large ledge, traverse left then climb up and top out.

Start on left side, traverse right along crimps, around the arete then top out.

Steer clear of the arete to the right of the bolt line to avoid pulling head-sized rocks down on your belayer.

Probably a contrived eliminate.

Sit start on low crimps. Follow along Bebop then Rocksteady then traverse further right and top out.

Sit start on low crimps, traverse along edge past the overhang and top out on other side.

Sit start on low crimps, traverse along edge and top out before the overhang.

Start with two crimps on the right inside cave then top out at the centre.

Sit start on obvious crimps, big move out left to small edge. Top out.

Same as I Need Coffee! but you may use separate rock on the bottom left as a foothold and must start matched on the side pull.

Ascend the face then transition right, under the overhang. Traverse rightwards. Be very careful when moving onto the large rock under the overhang - it may be unstable. It is easily identifiable with the steel bar which adds some security. Keep people on the ground away from this rock as you climb. Move over the overhang into a forgiving finish.

One move wonder slab. Do not use the side wall for the 7a.

Climb the obvious jug rail.

EpicTV: https://youtu.be/zmJUl91VkB0?t=149.

Stand start on thin ledge, slabby climb to top out.

Jam yourself into the 'shelter' and start on the lowest right underling. Climb straight up, avoiding any holds past the long thin line of crack between Blessing in disguise and Rock Shelter.

Homage extension (this route combines the two pitches on Homage)

Path of least resistance, use this to down-climb.

Start at top of boulder pile, traverse along the ledges and top out.

Start under overhang on big horizontal crack, move left then up to top out.

Same start as Gumby, go up and traverse right. Use only main face (not top ledge) until reaching top out position.

Sit start on small crimps to top out.

Start on holds to the right side of the boulder, traverse left then top out.

Start on the lowest crimps, slabby moves to top out.

Same start as Meja Berita but come out under the boulder to the left side and top out.

Sit start, climb up ledges and top out.

Start on lowest obvious holds on left side of boulder, slabby climb to top out.

Start with left hand on crimp under the ledge and right hand on right side edge, climb up crimps and top out.

Sit start on crimp and ledge then top out.

Sit start with compression of arete, move right hand up to good pinch/edge for first move.

Starts from the ledge where the belay area for Alarette is, immediately to the right of Alarette's belay anchors, staying in the relatively sheltered corner for the first several meters before coming out onto the face and then punching straight up what would be the left nostril of the Nose.

The 5th bolt may currently be slightly difficult for shorter climbers to clip. Placement was forced by the quality of the surrounding rock. It is intended to protect the move over the bulge, and it is highly recommended that climbers clip the 5th before making the traverse out left to get over that bulge.

There are also a few blocks at the last 2 bolts which looked like they might come loose, but haven’t given way to tugging with body weight. Nevertheless, do be careful if you are giving the route a go.

Hardware comprises Hilti HSA-R wedge bolts with Petzl hangers, all SS316. Anchors are currently two bolts, each with a quicklink/maillon. The quicklinks/maillons will soon be replaced with rated SS316 quicklinks.

With all the craziness going on in 2020, and given the part of the Nose where the route is, Swab Test seemed the perfect name to memorialise the year.

Climb the easy slab to make the first high bolt. From the slab, step out right to gain the face. Higher up traverse right. Route shares the anchor and last bolted protection with Rainmaker.

The second bolted line from the left on the shelf. The crux is the bouldery section through first two bolts before it merges with Struggle Bus to the anchors. Make sure to stick clip the first bolt or risk a serious mangling as you hit the ledge then the deck. Can be combined with Chicken Shit to go from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Need to climb the platform from the left and rig a trad anchor above the face. Moves are extended and tricky.

Starts the same as 'First Blood'. At the break instead of traversing left, step slightly left and climb the face for a direct finish.

Climb the face instead of the corner

In remembrance of Wolfgang Güllich †.

Route shares the first 5 bolts as 'Take it Easy' and then traverses to the left. Details originally posted here.

Scramble start to a line that follows two parallel weaknesses in the rock. Work up to a natural break with two obvious (suspiciously perfect) handholds. Move right and mount the protrusion. Staying left, insecure moves bring you a large ledge. From here some powerful moves to reach the anchor.

Stand start on big ledge at the lower part of top boulder, throw right then top out.

Start on the far left, climb left then up.

Stand start to the left of the ledge, follow ledge to top out.

Alternate route for second pitch of first blood. From the stance goes right past the tree and runs straight up from there to the same anchor as first blood. Trad protection is scant, so best on top rope after leading first blood.

From the top of the first pitch of First Blood belay from the left anchor. Traverses up and left before gaining a crack system allowing you to come back right. At the first bolt swing right onto the arete and up to the anchor following the bolts.

To the right of lucky draw dihedral. Runs up the steps then left onto the face and follows the crack in the middle of the vertical face and the edge of the arête to the anchor. Requires micro-cams or ball-nuts to protect the crux move.

A Dairy Farm classic comprising technical face climbing.

Stand start on the lowest foothold on the left of the boulder. Slabby climb straight up to the highest ledge to top out awhile avoiding using the side ledges on the way up.

One move wonder slab. Make use of the RHS sidewall for an easier grade.

The left most climb, starting on top of the ledge. Takes an ascending rightward line to a bulge, then proceeds direct to the anchors (swapped from rap bolts to a 10mm 316 load rated chain and mallions to mitigate the edge just below) Be careful of loose rocks (as always at DF).

Feb 2021 update:-

static sling thread protection is no longer there. A cam can be used to protect the last move to the anchor. A BD Camalot #2 (Gold) size fits well.

1st pitch (6a/5.10b) up the left of the giant flake to the break, which marks the edge of the overhang. Traverse left and up the obvious crack, to run out an easy slab to the anchor. Has a bolt on the traverse and couple of bolts up the crack, if you don't trust placing your own protection.

2nd pitch (5a/5.8) runs up the arête and angles right up a series of cracks on a slab face to the anchor. Couple of football size loose rocks en-route so get the all-clear from below before moving up.

Climb up the slab on the right to Heritage Crack

Update 2018 - the rock forming the crack system for the Climb has collapsed, the route no longer exists.

This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).

Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. The slab is hard, and can be circumvented by climbing the tree, the 6a grade includes use of the tree.

From the top of the slab the route heads RIGHT up the CRACK!

First bolt is quite high, can place 1 piece of natural pro to protect first move. Enjoy the rappel peg on the key hold of the crux. Second pitch is dirty. Quicklinks in the anchor bolts of the second pitch replaced on 29 Feb 2020.