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Routes as sport in The Nose

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6b In Memory of Mother Teresa

Set: Chiew Sien Chew

FA: Chiew Sien Chew, 1998

Sport 25m, 9
Closed Project

Unfinished new route, not yet in a fully cleaned and climbable state. Will complete cleaning and final choss check once the PTSD from bolting it using a mixture of beaks, hooks and dark magic has subsided.

Set: Al Bear & Hamish

Sport 10
6c Swab Test

Starts from the ledge where the belay area for Alarette is, immediately to the right of Alarette's belay anchors, staying in the relatively sheltered corner for the first several meters before coming out onto the face and then punching straight up what would be the left nostril of the Nose.

The 5th bolt may currently be slightly difficult for shorter climbers to clip. Placement was forced by the quality of the surrounding rock. It is intended to protect the move over the bulge, and it is highly recommended that climbers clip the 5th before making the traverse out left to get over that bulge.

There are also a few blocks at the last 2 bolts which looked like they might come loose, but haven’t given way to tugging with body weight. Nevertheless, do be careful if you are giving the route a go.

Hardware comprises Hilti HSA-R wedge bolts with Petzl hangers, all SS316. Anchors are currently two bolts, each with a quicklink/maillon. The quicklinks/maillons will soon be replaced with rated SS316 quicklinks.

With all the craziness going on in 2020, and given the part of the Nose where the route is, Swab Test seemed the perfect name to memorialise the year.

FA: Kang & QX, 11 Dec 2020

Sport 25m, 11

Showing all 3 routes.

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